VOL. XVII.

No. 118.

AT SEA.

FAR away in the Atlantic Ocean there is a group of green islands, of which we know comparatively little, as they are somewhat out of the way of ordinary travel. More than four hundred years ago they were accidentally visited by a merchant vessel which was driven into their vicinity by a storm. The vessel was bound to Lisbon, on reaching which port her commander made known his discovery to the Portuguese Government, which sent out an expedition to take possession and settle upon the islands. These pioneers left an indelible impress upon their descendants, as the old quaint customs which they brought with them still remain, and the primitive tools of those days are still in use.

Having decided on a summer cruise among these islands, I sailed out of Boston harbor one pleasant July morning, and as our vessel proved to be a fast one, and we had favoring winds all the way, the voyage out was delightful.

These island gems, toward which we were sailVOL. XVII.-19

ing, are nine in number, and are somewhat widely separated, forming three distinct groups. Flores and Corvo are the first we approach, and a hundred and twenty miles distant we reach the second group, consisting of Fayal, Pico, St. George, Graciosa, and Terceira. St. Miguel and San Maria form the third group, and lie some seventy miles further to the southeast.

An ocean voyage, however pleasant, becomes in time monotonous, and it was with great delight that we heard one morning, our fourteenth at sea, that land was in sight. I looked anxiously in the direction pointed out, and was told that what appeared only a blue cloud on the horizon was the island of Flores. A few hours later, Corvo, its nearest neighbor, was faintly outlined, and before sunset they had grown upon our vision until they looked like two green mountains rising out of the sea, and capped with fleecy clouds.

Next morning we found ourselves near the western end of the island, and as we had a light breeze and could only move slowly along we had ample time to enjoy the lovely views which it presented. The island is in reality a mountain in the sea, and is cultivated with the greatest care almost to its summit. We passed a succession of villages as we sailed along, and they were all built of stone

far on to the beach as possible the boatmen took us in their stout arms and carried us to land. As our vessel had probably been seen a long distance off, the news of our arrival had spread rapidly over the island, and there was a large crowd at the landing to greet us. It is very seldom that an American lady visits that island, and I was so much of a curiosity that all the women gathered round me, asking me, in Portuguese, who I was, and where I came from.

They were a strange looking crowd, barefooted and bare-headed, with the exception of a gay-colored handkerchief, which most of

and neatly whitewashed. They formed the prettiest pictures imaginable, nestled in the green valleys, or crowning some bold headland.

As we neared Santa Cruz, the port of entry of the island, the American flag was displayed from our mast-head, and was the signal for the customhouse boat to visit us. It soon came alongside, and we found a number of dignitaries had come out to meet us, among them the governor of the island. Having given us permission to land, I returned with these officials and some of our own party for a few hours' visit to Flores.

There was no wharf, and so the boat was rowed into a rocky little cove, and after being pushed as

VILLA FRANCA.

them wore tied tightly under the chin. They wore full-gathered skirts and little short coats, and for an outside garment the prevailing fashion seemed to be one of these dress skirts, turned wrong side

out and pinned about the neck. As I walked up from the landing toward the little quaint-looking custom-house perched on a rock, the crowd on the beach followed me till I was glad to take refuge within, if only for a few moments.

The town is built mostly on the level land near the shore, but some of the houses stretch back upon the mountain in the rear, and look very pleasant nestling among the orange-groves. There is a large cathedral in Santa Cruz, with two towers, each surmounted with a small dome, and every village on the island has its stone church. The streets are very narrow and are paved with tiny stones, which form a very durable though not a very easy walk to tread upon. As I was passing up the principal street, I heard a strange creaking sound, and pretty soon a queer-looking vehicle came rattling over the stones, which was a clumsy affair indeed. The body was made of hardwood, very thick, and the sides of the cart were formed of basket-work. The wheels were a solid piece of wood, without spokes, of course, and they creaked fearfully. I think those carts are considered the best that make the most noise, and if there were many in the place the din would be fearful. This cart was drawn by two patient-looking cows yoked together, and their horrs were also tied. They were dragging a load of stones, but they were not as heavy as they looked, for the stones here are all light and rous. The island is of volcanic origin, and nearly all of the rocks show the action of fire upon them.

The consul of the port had gone to Layens, a town a few miles away, to attend a wedding, so the business was entrusted to a gentleman who invited us from the custom-house to his own residence. His business office where we first entered was on the ground floor, and looked out into a pretty garden, which was tastefully laid out. After our business was transacted, he invited us up-stairs into the living apartments of the family. We were first ushered into the drawing-room, which was large and quite gorgeous in gilding and stonework. There were mats upon the polished floor, and the furniture was of cane and bamboo. No woollen carpets or upholstered furniture is used upon any of the islands, for the climate is so moist they would gather dampness and mould very quickly. We were introduced to the ladies of the family, and one of the daughters, a little

invited out into a pleasant dining-room to lunch. A handsome bouquet of flowers stood in the centre of the table, and ranged about it were plates of dried figs and raisins, different kinds of preserves, and some sweet-cakes as thin as a wafer and unlike anything I had ever seen or tasted. Some lemoncolored drink was served in tiny glasses, and I afterward learned it was called liquer, and was made from the juice of various fruits. While we were eating, servants stood by with green boughs to keep off the flies, which we found were as plenty in that far-away island as at home. On leaving this hospitable mansion, which proved to be the finest on the island, I was presented with a beau