OUR TOWN. Continued from Page 151. We stay to make little observation on the character of Charles 2nd., nor is it our intention to act the critic on the various occurrences of his reign, and the doings of his government. His personal excesses, and general public acts, were the fair issues of such a state of things as we have lately looked at. Hating the sour hypocrisy of the Commonwealth, he launched himself into the very vortex of gaiety, and in his political movements, while he could not obliterate from the deeply-graven tablets of memory, the murder of his father, or his own disasters, he used every effort to conciliate and gain the good services of his enemies, and anon, as other, and less forgiving feelings gave momentum to his will, he tried to secure peace by more inflexible appliances. Nor can we wonder, with all our ardour after true liberty, that in such times, a corporation and test act, and an act against conventicles shonld have received the royal assent, since whatever clamour may assert, and those who stand at a distance may state, this seemed the safest way of gagging a power whose early efforts were notorious for much misdirection, and to the commonest judgments, lacked most of the gentle and commendable attributes of truth. It is no libel to say of yon sun that he arose out of the dark cloud, and grey mists, with broken and refracted ray; that when we first saw his distant glances, he darted through a creviced and sombre curtain work; nor can it be unfair to Nonconformity to assert, that whatever it had of the angel in this age, these portions were hidden under thick folds of drapery, which rendered it both undefinable and frightful. The word liberty has been a stalking-horse for the most frightful enormities: it throws upon crime a sort of fascination that makes it popular, and transforms sin itself into an angel of light. Who would believe it, that many of the quaint beings of " Our Town," who, a few days agone were scattering fire brands and death, and deeming it sport now that a scrutiny was made to see if any sparks were left behind, with well feigned horror spoke of conscience, freedom, religious toleration, and such stock terms of the new brotherhood. But we will pass on a few years until these virtuous uproars having partly subsided, men exercised their brains instead of their lungs. Now our townsfolk had lost half their cant vocabulary, and instead of reforming governments, hunting kings to death, and persecuting the preisthood, they might be seen and heard in snug half-dozens laughing at their late madness, and mysteriously talking of magic lanthorns, glass coaches, looms, a post office, a royal society and the like; but the most famous invention was, that of newspapers. Look into the parlour of the Royal Arms, ay, and such a parlour too for magnitude and good company as has no parallel in this age of No. 1 and 2, you will see a fair specimen of our forefathers, for whatever religious differences existed, the parlour floor formed neutral ground, and here such topics were never introduced until the oft repeated and potent draught made the tongue out-strip reason, and knock down the dam by which prudence held back their prejudices. Our friend Job loved conciliation, and although he called himself no party man, he wiled away the loose moments of the day in snatches of ballads, plainly indicating his political bias, and when pressed by his customers for a tribute to their merriment, he was wont to break out in old remembrance. If I were a gay young Cavalier, I'd fight till my sword was worn to the hilt. When "Prithee cease, the times are changed," closed his loyal and lugubrious pipes. Smoking, that nerve soother and brain rocker, was here carried on to a considerable extent, and yonder, especially, might be seen the round visage of Shortell, the hosier, laughing like the sun through a cloud, Mumps, the melancholy cobbler, meanwhile perusing the "Public Intelligencer," for here, once in a while, this first periodical paper lent and sent to our landlord, by the trustworthy valet of a neighbouring Knight, might be seen, and from its columns, and the tongue of rumour, the folk of "Our Town" heard of the Plague of London, in which 90,000 persons died, and where all infected houses were shut up; and a red cross chalked on the door, with these words over it: "Lord have mercy upon us." ،، Bless me," cried Mr. Puff, the baker, some of the King's folk are now at the Newmarket Palace, and no doubt they've brought the infection down from the great city, and I trow it will be here directly," and away he hied, for bakers it seems had then a fearful conscience, which in times of danger, presented to them visions of light weights, pirated joints, and abcissions of tit bits. 66 Another year brought the great Fire, and amidst so much, likely both to move and amend, it is certain that the movements of the Sohamites, were too often in the direction of Job's 'Hostelrie,' and the great solace of sorrow sought in the lusty potations retailed there. Numerous however were the conjectures as to the origin of this Fire, and singular were the oral descriptions of its ravages. Mumps, who made the worst of everything, averred that it had burnt millions of houses, and thousands of churches, and as none of the party had ever seen London, and only knew of it from exaggerated report, this hyperbole was written down for an honest fact. Perhaps the most remarkable social change of the year appeared in the altered character of the attire of the people, who, finding out that the cut of the cloth was no credential of sound faith, soon launched out into all the gay toggery of the time. The court rules the country, and as the attendants of a certain wry necked monarch carried their heads on one side out of compliment to the King, so blue or yellow adopted there, is found in some shape or other from Land's-end, to John O' Groat's. Alas, how many who once deprecated "the vanity of dress," and were as spare and demure as scissors and sancitimoniousness could make them, now disported themselves in long flowing wigs of false hair covering the shoulders, and a cravat round the throat, tied in a great bunch under the chin. But yon knot of men hard by the church wall calls us away from these remarks, for there, one of the cleverest men in the parish, according to his own valuation, (none other than Doublesight, who saw the witch at "Hanie,") is exclaiming, "Odds fish masters" Our Town," 'ill be a a brave place for larnin, if matters go thus, for at yon big school about which our parson has been so busy, every chick in the place may get to read as 'clart' as the clargy, and know as much lingo as a Strologer." "Tut," cried a little crabbed looking man at the outskirt, "it be not so much for larnin, that this huge house be built, as to teach the bairns to hate the Pope and the Roundheads." By my sabbath doublet then," shouted the only Foxite in the parish, "my Obadiah's brain shall the rather rest untilled." And so one by one they separated after doing what has been enacted again and again, scouting secular teaching, lest a spice of religion should be mixed with it, especially any grain that didn't suit their own individual palate. It appears that this was one of a class of schools now first instituted, and generally established in the next reign, for the conservation of the sound protestant feeling of the country, against the inroads of error 66 and popery. Stupid prejudices wearing away, it was found of essential use to "Our Town," affording for many years the only instruction to be obtained. Here therefore the sons of farmers and cowherds, of shopkeeper and peasant were grouped together in literary emulation, and in the contest, it most likely has often occured that the first has been last, and the last first. "Delightful task,” mid buzz, and hum, and noise, EXCURSION TO THE DEAD SEA AND THE JORDAN. G. HAVING visited nearly all the remarkable localities in Jerusalem and its environs, we resolved to conclude our pilgrimage by an excursion to the Dead Sea and the Jordan. The governor of Jerusalem is bound once a year, to convey all the pilgrims who may desire to visit those places, with a guard sufficient to preserve them from the attacks of the Arabs; but, as this would not occur till a fortnight later, and our time would not allow us to wait, we applied for permission, and an escort for our selves, which were readily granted. A detachment of four soldiers was appointed to conduct us to Rihhah, pronounced Yarikah, i. e. Jericho, with an order upon the garrison of the fort there to join us in our advance to the Jordan, which is the place considered most liable to Arab attack. Our intentions were speedily noised abroad, and, in consequence we had numerous applications from pilgrims to be allowed to accompany us. Among the applicants were several of the fair sex ; but as the Turks, to enhance their services and increase the bucksheesk, magnified the danger, fearful that they might prove an impediment to our movement, we were compelled to silence our gallantry, and refuse their request. One buxom Grecian dame was most pertinacious in her entreaties, returning four times to the charge, and at last fairly seating herself in our apartment, as if determined to take no denial; so we had no resource but to evacuate the place and leave her in full possession, when, I presume she gave the affair up, as we heard no more of her. There came, also, a mad Russian priest, raving and ranting in so extraordinary a manner, that forcible ejectment was found necessary. Two Muscovite grenadiers were next ushered in, craving permission— tall, stout fellows, decorated with several crosses and medals, who had belonged to the army of occupation at Paris. Thinking that such old campaigners would be no bad allies, in case of a brush with the Arabs, we gave our assent, upon condition that all should bring us certificate from the Russian Chancellor of having procured horses, that they might be no hinderance to us. One immediately acquiesced: the other, with a doleful countenance, produced an empty purse as evidence of his inability to hire an animal. This excited our compassion, and we gave him wherewith, to furnish a conveyance. His gratitude was unbounded; before we could hinder him, he, greatly to our annoyance, prostrated himself upon the ground before us, and commenced kissing our shoes. The rendezvous was appointed next morning, half an hour before sunrise, at the convent-gate, at which time about a dozen of them appeared well mounted, and I was carried down, and set upon my horse, in very poor condition either for fighting or flying, had need required. As soon as we were joined by our escort, we issued forth through St. Stephen's Gate, our Turkish warriors (two of whom were armed with long guns, and two with spears, all having sabres and pistols,) careering before us to exhibit their horsemanship, and most beautiful it was. As an instance, one of them galloped his horse down a very steep pitch to a level spot, which appeared scarcely large enough to receive him, and, planting his spear in the centre, like the leg of a compass, he made him describe a circle three or four times at speed, and then pulled him up short upon his haunches in a moment. The Mameluke bits are of tremendous power, having very long checks, and a strong iron ring passing through the bit, and under the horse's chin, affording a lever which no animal could resist The mouths of the Turkish steeds are very fine; the slightest motion of the finger will turn them. Crossing the Cedron, we skirted the Mount of Olives, above Absalom's pillar, proceeding round it to Bethany, near which, concealed behind a rock, we found a number of pilgrims waiting our approach, who, having heard our determination to admit none but equestrians into our party, had preceded us to this spot, where we had no means of preventing them from following us. They were mostly Greeks. With this addition, and the Arabs who accompanied us, to look after the horses, our numbers exceeded sixty, being generally stout, able-bodied young men; so we made a formidable show of both cavalry and infantry, and stood in no fear of the enemy. In two miles we reached Bethany, a miserable village, where are shewn the mansion and tomb of Lazarus, and Mary Magdalen's house. Descending from hence, by a steep rocky path, we reached the Fountain of the Apostles, so called from having been their resting-place in their journeys between Jerusalem and Jericho. It is situated in the gorge of a long narrow valley, which exhibited the last signs of vegetation in a few stripes of corn: beyond it not a blade of grass is to be seen. The well is walled round, and covered with a roof: we halted a few minutes to refresh our horses, and taste of the holy element. After leaving this valley, we wound our way among parched and barren hills of one uniform whitish-brown colour, bearing not the semblance of any green thing to relieve the eye. Never before had I formed an idea of what barrenness really was. We at last reached, on the top of a hill, an enclosure of loose stones and some ruins, which our guards rode forward to reconnoitre, as they said, it was a favourite lurking place of the Arabs; but no one was found. We had seen only two human beings upon the road, armed Arabs, perched upon a rock above us, in the valley of the Apostles' Fountain: these our guides pretended to think were scouts on the look-out: so, presenting their guns, they ordered them immediately to descend, which they did forthwith, saying, they were shepherds watching their flock. This might have been the case, as a few sheep were visible; and, in this country, where every man's hand is against his fellow, the peaceful crook of the shepherd must necessarily be exchanged for a more warlike weapon. At the ruins we concentrated our forces, and waited for stragglers; then, with the guards in front, we began our advance through a very narrow defile, with high precipitous sides. It was here that Sir Frederick Henniker was attacked and wounded; and a better place for an attack could not be found; half a dozen rifles would have sufficed to discomfit a host: however, nothing interrupted our passage. Emerging from this gorge, we beheld the the plains of Jericho at our feet, to which we descended by a steep, rugged, and perilous path. Most of the company dismounted, and led their horses down. Being unable to walk, I was obliged to trust my safety to the surefootedness of my nag; and, being equally powerless on horseback, I gave him his head, and clung to the saddle with my hands. I was not a little relieved when this nervous descent was achieved, and I found myself once more upon level ground. About half a mile from the foot of the hills we passed some large masses of reticulated Roman brick-work. Another hour's riding brought us to Rihhah. The plain was nearly as devoid of verdure as the hills we had left, except in the beds of some torrents that we crossed, in which were growing oleanders, tamarisks, and other shrubs, particularly the Spina Christi, supposed, and not without reason, to be the plant of whose branches the crown of thorns was plaited, with which mockery decked our Saviour's brow. It resembles a young willow in growth and flexibility, the leaves being much of the same form, but somewhat longer, and the thorns an inch in length, and very strong and sharp. Water was conducted in channels, from (I believe) the healing spring of Elisha, to supply the wants of the very scanty cultivation that was partially sprinkled over this portion of the plains. These tiny rills, edged on each side with about a foot's breadth of the most vivid green vegetation, formed a delicious contrast with the brown and arid desert around, a feast for the weary eye. The sun was overcomingly powerful, and the wind high, raising clouds of dust, which made the latter part of our ride very distressing. No. 11. Vol. I. K 2 Oh! City of Palms! how are the mighty fallen! Jericho is now nothing more than an assemblage of the most miserable huts, compared with which the worst Irish cabin is a palace; so low that, at night, one might almost ride over them without being aware of the fact. In most of these, of the dimensions of a pigsty, in the midst of filth at which an English porker would disdainfully turn up his nose, an Arab, his wife and several children, are huddled together,-naked, squalid wretchedlooking creatures, of a very dingy complexion; some, indeed, were nearly black. They crowded about us to indulge their curiosity. The citadel attached to this city of human sties is quite in character, consisting of a small ruinous square tower, with a court surrounded by a wall, having a tank of chocolate-coloured water at one corner, to which rushed man and beast as soon as they were admitted, to quaff the brown element. Necessity would not allow of our being very nice; and parched, with sun and dust as we were, we found it grateful: it was thatched over with boughs to keep it cool. We found here another party, consisting of two Frenchmen and their attendants. Not a palm was to be seen; but there were two very fine fig-trees just outside this tower of strength, whose young green foliage afforded a delightful shelter, From off the drooping head to fend the ray Thither we retired from the crowd, to rest our weary limbs after the fatigues of the ride, and refresh ourselves with whatever provisions our Greek host at Jerusalem had supplied our basket with. We found nothing but four pigeons and a small quantity of bread; upon which there arose a debate whether we should finish the whole at once, as appetite impelled, and trust to chance for a fresh supply, or reserve a couple of birds for the morrow, as prudence dictated Prudence at last carried the day; so we divided our scanty fare. But virtue was not rewarded; for, during the night, some of our worthy companions contrived to purloin the contents of the basket. Nothing was to be obtained in these inhospitable regions; consequently we were compelled to fast till our return to Jerusalem. At sunset, the inclosure was shut, and we were desired to take our repose in the court, amidst Arabs, Russians, Greeks, horses, and donkeys, upon the bare ground. To the ground, as a couch, we had no particular objection, seeing no better bed was to be had; but too great propinquity to the human portion of this motley assembly might have entailed consequences which it would have been difficult quickly to get rid of; we therefore applied to the sheikh for admittance into his turret. At this he demurred, alleging in excuse, that he had no order from the Governor, and that it was against discipline to allow strangers to inspect the fortification! This was rightly interpreted into a hint for bucksheesh. We offered a dollar, which, after the usual delay and demand for more, being at length accepted, we were ushered into the interior of this superb fortification, which consisted of an upper and a lower apartment. The lower room had no window, nor any aperture whatever to admit light or air save the door, and was filled with all imaginable nastiness. Of course we declined having anything to say to that. Climbing up a steep and narrow flight of broken stone stairs, we reached the upper chamber, the roof of which had fallen in. In one corner, beneath a bower of branches plastered with mud, reposed the commander-in-chief and his garrison of six or seven men, and we were politely desired to select any of the other three corners that might hit our fancy. In spite of the hardness of our stone bed, we might have slept had it only been exempt from the annoyance of vermin; but even that couch was alive with fleas, which danced about us with untiring energies. A lamb, too, the live-stock of the garrison, resented our intrusion, practising fencing upon our persons, and bleating incessantly during the whole night. Had it not been for these discomforts, sleeping beneath the canopy of heaven would have been agreeable, as the night was warm and pleasant. An hour before day-break we were summoned to prepare for marching. Our pigeons having flown away, and carried our bread along with them, we were compelled to defer breakfast till some future opportunity. Marshalling our forces in front of the fort now increased by the addition of the sheikh and his garrison, with |