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from the exterior of the latter surrounded it. The entrance of the pylon is covered with Greek inscriptions; amongst which, several commemorate the homage paid to the god Mercury, by Greek and Roman visitors, the latter under the reign of Tiberius Cæsar. This temple, like some others in Nubia, has been subsequently used as a Greek chapel, as appears by their daubed paintings; other ruins, perhaps of a smaller town, are scattered about near the temple.

Thursday, August 7. Started at dawn, and soon visited the temple of Garbe Girshe; the natives here have a very bad character. Last year they murdered a soldier of the pashaws, and not having been punished for it, are now remarkably insolent. Seeing us all armed, and not being numerous themselves, they asked for the backsheeish in a quiet manner, and we gave them some. This temple is principally an excavation in the rock, but has been fronted by a built portico or peristyle hall; four terms on each side, and two pillars in front, in a mutilated state, remain to it; but there have been many more of the latter; and probably a flight of steps preceded by an avenue of sphinxes (a lion's body with a woman's head), as appears by fragments remaining, was an approach to it. The excavated chambers have a black and dismal

appearance, and the interior ones have become

the habitation of bats. The plan is not dissimilar to that of the great temple at Ebsambal, but much smaller, and the sculpture is unusually bad and heavy. The first chamber is nineteen paces by eighteen, and supported by six terms, three on each side of the centre, with alto-relievo figures of Osiris in an erect posture; but instead of the arms being across the breast, with the scourge in one hand and hook in the other, as at Ebsambal, both the insignia are here in the right hand, which is uplifted, while the left hand hangs down; these latter are executed in a most heavy and unsightly manner. On either side of this chamber are four niches, in each of which are four altorelievo figures; the second chamber is smaller, supported by two pilasters, one on each side of the centre; beyond this is the sanctuary which is small; the altar remains in it, and four sitting statues at the further end; there is a small chamber on each side of the sanctuary, and side apartments leading from the second chamber.

Towards sun-set we inspected the temple of Garbe Dendour: this is a small edifice which has never been finished. It is built with a small portico of two columus in front, and two small chambers within it. The sanctuary at the back is an excavation in the rock, before which the

[graphic]

KALAPSHE

9

LOOKING UP THE NILE. Printed in Hullmandel

From the Original Sketch by Rennie Esq

temple is built: it is very small and unfinished. Before the building is a portal and a square space walled in, probably intended as a quay to protect the edifice from the river near which it stands -Garbe Merie. We passed this place without stopping, there being nothing but a broken wall, with hieroglyphics, which has been part of a temple.

In the evening we landed at Kalapsche and went up to see the temple. Here we found all the natives assembled, and armed with their daggers to dispute the entrance; we asked the reason of their being assembled in such numbers, and what they wanted: they said they must be paid before we entered the temple: we asked the speaker if he meant that he was to be paid himself, or who it was that we were to give money to? they all cried out, that we must pay every one of them. Now as there were about sixty of them, and many others arriving, we thought this a bad speculation, and were, therefore, proceeding to explain to them that it was not any great object for us to see the temple a second time, since we had already inspected it; and that if they chose to let us enter, we would give them a reasonable present when we came out, otherwise that it was immaterial to us whether we saw it or not, and that we would go without seeing it.

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