and was an enthufiaft for the meafures that I had fo often recommended. Mr. Stevenson, whofe knowledge of the Highlands is very extenfive, was, if poffible, ftill more zealous, and both of them gave a proof of their fincerity, by becoming fubfcribers. Mr. Ritchie having twelve children, I proposed that he should take only half a share.*

We were now under fail, and had the day been fine, the numerous iflands along the coaft, with the various appearances of diftant mountains on the continent, would have produced the moft magnificent views of rude nature. Among the islands on the fouth, two lofty mountains called the Paps of Jura overtop the whole groupe, and are feen at a great distance from every direction. They rife in the form of a fugar loaf. The highest is nearly three thoufand feet,† and

com

* He was in mourning for one of his fons, who, with 12 other perfons, was drowned in a boat, near the Cumbras.

+ The mountains in Scotland are not fo high as is generally imagined. Ben Nevis, near Fort William, though the highest in the kingdom, is only 4,273 fect above the level of the fea; and in general, the ridges of hills in that country. do not exceed 2,000 feet. Thefe compared to the Alps, the mountains of Afia, and America, are only gentle rifings

The

commands a moft extensive prospect of the Hebrides, the north of Ireland, Argyleshire, and the Firth of Clyde. On the west, we faw the islands of Colonfay and Oransay appear as fpots in the ocean. On the east, a large fertile ifland, called Lifmore, at the mouth of Loch Linnhe, a capacious lake, and navigable for the largest ships to Fort William, which stands in the country called Lochaber.

The Island of LISMORE, thus placed between the fouth channel which leads to the Clyde, the Sound of Mull, which leads to the northern shores, and the Linnhe Loch, which opens a communication with Fort William, and the interior part of the Highlands, feems to merit particular attention.

This ifland contains 1,500 people; is above seven miles in length, by one in breadth; and being compofed of lime-stone, it might be rendered the granary of that coast. Hitherto it has derived little advantage from the limestone, owing to the want of good peat, the neglect of timber, and still more, the duty

The height of fome of the mountains in Tibet, near the Mogul empire, is 8,000 feet and the height of the Andes, in South America, is 15,000 feet, being nearly three miles.

7

upon coals. Thus, with the advantages of navigation, in every direction, and of a foil ly ing upon the richest manure, the people are indigent, and frequently obliged to import meal for their fubfiftence. Many of them live a part of the year upon milk only. If this be the fituation of a spot naturally fertile, we may eafily conceive the diftrefs of the parish, of which Lismore forms only a very small part. This parish contains, befides Lifmore, the diftrict of Appin, Duror, Glen-Co, Glen-Creran, and Kingerloch; the whole extending forty miles in length, and inhabited by five thousand people,* who are under the care of one minister and two miffionaries.

At the north-eaft end of Lifmore, there is a small island, which defends a bay, fufficiently extenfive for all the purposes of fisheries and coasting business. The benefits

of

*In giving the number of people, I always include the children.

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66

Ramfay Bay, near the east-end of Lifmore, is the only "fafe anchorage in this ifland; the ground is good, the "harbour pretty well sheltered, and the depth fufficient for any fhip. Take the island that fhelters the harbours on the "larboard-hand going in, and anchor nearest the north "fice."

Mackenzie.

of a port and market, both to the natives of this island, and the fhores upon the Linnhe Loch, must appear obvious to any perfon who has the map or chart before him.

After paffing Lifmore, we entered the narrow part of the found, against both wind and tide; an attempt which none but Mr. Ritchie, on board the Cumbras cutter, would have thought of. Other vessels were! bearing away for places of shelter. A stranger, who seemed to be an Englishman, spoke us with the trumpet, and begged that we would inform him of a safe harbour or anchoring place. Our commander answered him by the trumpet, in a very obliging manner, and the stranger fteered immediately for port.

The day began to mend, and our veffel being obferved by two gentlemen on the Morven fide, they thought proper to launch their boat, and board us, to hear news. The curiofity of Highlandmen, when a stranger goes among them is proverbial. The lower fort generally interrogate a stranger, at the very first interview, thus: "May I afk your name, Sir ?----From whence came you?----Where

are

are you going.* There was, however, a very good reafon for curiofity in the present case: Mr. Ritchie had thought proper to go up the found with colours flying, which, no doubt, brought thefe gentlemen from home; and great must their disappointment have been, when they found that Ritchie had played a trick upon them. But he made them ample amends at a well furnished table in the cabbin.

Towards evening we landed at Aros, in Mull, accompanied with our visitors; and here I began to make my obfervations on thati fl and.

The first object that presented itself, was the ruins of a confiderable building, fituated immediately above the fea. It is called the Castle of Aros, and was once the refidence of Macdonald of the Ifles. At the fouth entrance of the found, we had passed another ruin, upon the edge of the fea, called Castle Duart, which

* The country Irish are equally inquifitive after news — Ask an Irishman the way to Lurgan, and he will anfwer, O! and is it to Lurgan you are going?" Happy in fuch important information, he, with great chearfulness, adds, "O then my dear jewel, I will be after putting you in the "very track of the way that will carry you to Lurgan. "It is a very fine place-Was you never there before? I fuppofe you came laft from the City of Dublin ?"