ing that we observed the precentor's seat in the presbyterian church, in the centre of the front gallery, opposite to the preacher, and not in the body of the church, in front of the pulpit, as with us. These churches were well filled, and the streets crowded at the time of going to church; no shops, so far as we observed, open. There are about 100 churches in New York, with a population which is supposed to amount nearly to 200,000. In London, there are 500 churches, with 1,500,000 inhabitants. The clergymen have from 1500 to 3000 dollars per annum. The president of the United States was prayed for in the churches which we attended.

There are two large, and two smaller theatres. I looked into one of the former, the Bowery, which was just opened on its being rebuilt after being destroyed by fire; but I was glad to get out of it, though a very handsome house, as fast as possible. It was filled to. suffocation in one of the hottest evenings I ever felt.

The neatness, lightness, and cleanness of the hackney-coaches, which are numerous, and the rapidity with which they, and all carriages, whether for the conveypassengers or effects, are driven, were new to We saw no heavy horses for waggons or carts; all are driven at a trot.

ance of

us.

The hackney coaches are only constructed for four persons, very nice-looking without and within, generally driven by Irishmen, or men of colour, who are, we found, as apt to overcharge strangers as in other places. The carriages have heads, or tops, supported

on light iron frames; attached to the tops are curtains of silk, as well as of leather, which may be rolled up and buttoned, or let down at pleasure, so that the passengers may either have the space from the top of the carriage down to its middle altogether open, or inclosed with curtains of silk or leather. The fares vary according to the number of persons in the carriage, and the weight of baggage to be conveyed in it.

We have seen little of the manners of the people, the great heat of the weather having forced us at present to decline invitations, which were very hospitably given us by some of our fellow-passengers, whose good offices towards us on our arrival we can never recollect without grateful feelings. The dress of the people differs little from our own. Ladies seem to dress more smartly, when shopping or walking out in the forenoon, than in British cities; and their bonnets and head-dress are probably more according to the Parisian, than the London fashion. Shopkeepers, or rather storekeepers, -for a shop is uniformly called a store here,—are less obsequious in their manners than in Britain; but I have observed no want of civility any where.

The number of foreigners from all countries is great. One hears the French and Spanish languages almost in every street. Smoking of cigars seems universal now during the warm weather in the open air, the inhabitants being seated on the street, near the doors of their houses, or in their porticos or verandas. The noise of a grasshopper called the Catydid, from the trees in the evening, is quite overpowering. It is a beautiful insect,

of a bright green colour, constantly chirping catydid, catydid, or something very like it.

At the Custom-house, (where, by the way, it was a novelty to us to see the clerks in a great public office obliged, by the oppressive nature of the heat, to attend to their duty disrobed of their coats, and without neckcloths,) the depute-collector showed something like official hauteur in the manner in which he detained us before we got our clearances for landing our baggage, for which a very trifling fee is paid; but we had no reason to find any fault with the subsequent arrangement, which is exactly as it ought to be in all countries, A revenue-officer, a very respectable-looking person, attended us on board of the packet. He very properly had every trunk and package opened, and made such examination as was sufficient to satisfy him that they contained no goods for traders, or for sale, and that no improper evasion of the law could take place, under the general exception from duty of travelling baggage. Considerable discretion must always rest with the officer in judging whether the quantity of articles of any description, such as books, &c. is greater than ought to be comprehended under this exception; and the government of this country, therefore, judge wisely in giving the officers such a salary,-about eight hundred dollars, we were told,--as will induce people of education and intelligence to accept the situation, and render the offer of a bribe, and its being accepted, equally improbable. The accommodation at the hotel was very good. The general system at the American hotels is for the

PROVISIONS-LODGINGS.

27

whole inmates to eat together at fixed hours: in this hotel at eight to breakfast, three to dinner, six to tea and coffee, and nine to supper, the charge being at a fixed rate, here a dollar and a half, or 6s. 44d. Sterling, per day for board and lodging. The charge is less when the accommodation is required for a longer period than a few days, but is payable whether the inmate has his meals at home or abroad, and is exclusive of liquor.

Separate apartments may, however, be had in the great towns in the United States, and without any extra charge, when the party consists of five persons or more; but the payment is, even in this case, at the usual rate per day. Our party was anxious to remain together in private apartments while at New York, and we occupied a large and most comfortable dining-room, furnished in the same way, and as handsomely, as at the best hotels in Edinburgh or London. The table was excellent. A bill of fare was brought us every morning; but the maitre d'hotel was not satisfied with sending in those dishes alone which we marked, but, besides those, furnished every thing which he himself thought best. Turtle soup twice without extra charge; beef good; poultry excellent; fish different from what we had been accustomed to, and, as we thought, softer, and not so good; melons of very superior quality; peaches abundant, but not higher flavoured than our own; tea and coffee good; tea made by the person superintending the establishment, and not produced in the tea chest or canister.

The breakfasts were most abundant, consisting of fish, beef-steaks, broiled chicken, and eggs in large quantities, all produced without special directions. From what we have seen and heard, we entertain great doubts of the soundness of Dr Johnson's opinion, that an epicure would always desire to breakfast in Scotland. Wine-glasses are placed on the breakfast table in lieu of egg-cups. On inquiry, we learned from the waiter, that this is the universal custom, and that the Americans never eat an egg at once from the shell, but pour the contents into a wine-glass, in which they mix it up with salt before tasting it.

The bed-chambers do not correspond with the eating-rooms, either in appearance or accommodation,— the whole fitting up and furnishing looking meagre : Beds without curtains,-not a bit of carpet in the bedrooms, even water not so plentiful as is requisite, most of all in a warm climate,-neither hot nor cold baths in this, one of the two greatest hotels in New York,— nor proper accommodation of a different, but still more necessary description. The waiter shrugged his shoulders on pointing out a court behind one of the piazzas at the back of the house, where I found a row of temples alternately for males or females. I am told the British complain every where of the privations to which they are subjected, from the want of proper accommodation of this kind. The natives not being much accustomed to find it, are not aware of its value. Sure I am, if they once had it in perfection, they would take the necessary means to possess it. An abundant supply of water is