CHAP. XIII.

Departure for Albany-Voyage up the Hudson-Hoboken, Weehawken and the Palisadoes-Tappan bay-Grave of Major André— State prison for criminals at Sing Sing-Picturesque scenery of the highlands-Military academy at West Point-Monument to the Polish patriot, Koscuisko-Monument to General BrownPoloppel Island, and Breakneck Hill-Flourishing town of Newburgh-The Beacon hills, extensive prospect from thence-Town of Poughkeepsie, manufactures there-Landing at the village of Catskill-Stage route from the village to the mountains-Excessive roughness of American roads-Beautiful appearance of the country-Steep ascent of the mountains-Tremendous storm of thunder, lightning, and hail-Gentleness and humanity of the drivers-Road on the edge of a precipice-Complete envelopement in mist, second thunder-storm-Arrival at the hotel called the Mountain House-Description of the hotel, American cookery-Splendid daybreak on the mountain-top-Singular sea of clouds beneath the spectator-Sublime picture of sun-riseEffects of sun-light on the beautiful picture-Gradual breaking away of the clouds and mist-Herschel's theory of the spots on the sun-Glorious prospect under the meridian day-Resemblance to the plain of Damascus-Water-fall of 260 feet near the Mountain House-Leave the mountain for the landing-placeCharacter of the scenery above Catskill-City of Hudson, and village of Athens-Associations of celebrated classical namesDefective nomenclature of the towns of America-First approach to Albany from the south-Interesting appearance of the cityTriumph of steam navigation-Affecting account of Fulton's experimental voyage-Landing at Albany, and comfortable home.

As the weather continued sultry, and I derived less benefit from medicine than it was thought likely I should do from change of air, I was advised by my physician to embark at once upon the Hudson river,

and go straight to the village of Catskill, without halting at any intermediate point, but on landing there, to ascend the mountains, and pass a night or two at the Mountain House, the elevation of which secures a cool and bracing atmosphere, while all the lower parts of the country are steeped in sultry heat.

On the morning of Saturday, the 23d of June, we accordingly embarked at seven o'clock, on board the steamer for Albany, and found there between four and five hundred passengers bound up the river. The vessel was of large size, with ample accommodations, and engines of great power, so that her average speed when under way was not less than fourteen miles per hour.

Leaving the wharf at the foot of Barclay Street, we proceeded upwards on our course, having on our right the continuous lines of wharves, ships, steamers, and small craft, which fringe the western edge of New York, as the larger vessels do the banks of the East River on the other side of the town. At every hundred yards, and often less, we met schooners and sloops under sail, coming down the Hudson, with a leading wind from the eastward, while as many were passed by us upward-bound; the number of these small craft-with their clean, well cut, and well trimmed sails, and vanes lengthened out into broad pennants, after the manner of the Dutch, from whom this custom is, no doubt, derived-being sometimes as many as a hundred all in sight at once, and giving great life and animation to the scene.

We passed the hills of Hoboken on our left; scattered over which, were many beautiful villas, the country-seats of opulent merchants and others from

New York; the position of Hoboken combining the advantages of fine air, extensive view, beautiful woods, and close proximity to the city, there being a steam ferry-boat that crosses the Hudson at this point continuously throughout the day.

A little above this, on the same side of the river, and distant from the city about six miles, is a spot called Weehawken, which is memorable as the usual duel-ground of this quarter. It is close to the river's edge, and screened in from the land-view by surrounding rocks, which gives it the privacy usually sought in such encounters. Here it was that the well-known General Hamilton fell in a duel with the then notorious, and it may now be added, infamous Colonel Burr. The St. Andrew's Society of New York erected a monument to the memory of the General, which continued for some years to occupy the spot where he fell; but since the removal of his remains to the burial-ground of Trinity Church, in Broadway, the monument has been removed also, and one has been erected to his memory near the church named.

About two miles beyond this, and eight from New York, the western bank of the river begins to assume a very remarkable appearance, presenting all along, on that margin of the stream, a perpendicular wall of rock, varying from 100 to 500 feet in height, sometimes perfectly bare, and sometimes partially covered with brushwood, but always showing the perpendicularity which constitutes its most striking feature, and carrying along on its summits the sharp and broken edge of a precipice, while at the foot of the cliff below there is often neither beach nor plat

form; so that the river bathes the solid wall of rock as it rises perpendicularly from the stream.

These cliffs extend for nearly twenty miles along the western bank of the Hudson, and are called "The Palisadoes," a name given, probably, from the ribbed appearance of some parts of the cliff, which seem like rude basaltic columns, or huge trunks of old and decayed trees, placed close together in a perpendicular form, for a barricade or defence. The water is deep close to their very feet, being what is called, in nautical language "a bold shore ;" and the small sloops and schooners that navigate the stream were often so close to the cliffs, that a biscuit might be thrown on shore from them; sometimes, indeed, it would seem as if they were determined to run their bowsprits into the rock, as they did not tack till their stems were within a few feet of the cliff, making their evolutions interesting and picturesque.

Here and there, however, a break in the cliffs would show a little bit of lawn sloping down to the stream, and a pretty little cottage peeping out from the wood in which it was embosomed; and sometimes at the foot of a narrow ravine, would be seen a humble shed, either of a river-fisherman, a quarryman, or some other labourer to whom this locality was acceptable. The opposite or eastern bank of the river was only of moderate height, cultivated, wooded, and dotted over with dwellings at intervals, so as to contrast agreeably with the western cliffs.

In the course of our progress along these palisadoes, and about four miles after their commencement, there were pointed out to us the sites of two remarkable forts; one of them, called Fort Lee, which stood on the very edge and summit of the western cliffs, at an elevation of 300 feet above the level of the river; and the other called Fort Washington, which stood on the opposite side of the stream, on a moderately elevated hill. This latter fort was taken by the British in 1776, and the garrison, consisting of 2,600 troops, were captured as prisoners of war. Fort Lee soon after surrendered also, but these were only temporary disasters in the glorious effort by which the oppressed colonists of Britain achieved their independence.

At the termination of the Palisadoes, the river, which hitherto continues its breadth of about a mile, suddenly expands to a width varying from two to five miles, and is here called Tappan Bay, the increased breadth continuing for a distance of about eight miles. This spot is also consecrated in American history, for, close by the little village of Tappan, which