Sticking Labels on Tin.

How do you stick labels on tin cans? I don't seem to be able to make them stick.

MINNESOTA.

ANSWER.-The favorite way is to have the label pass clear around the can and overlap, in which case any common paste will answer. I'm not sure about it, but I think flour paste with cold water sticks to tin.

Only

Granulated Combs of Honey. Please advise me what to do with a lot of clean, straight 8-frame hives that have all the honey in the combs granulated. part of each frame is full. The rest is empty cells. Will this granulated honey be a waste? Will the bees use it up? They weigh from 15 to 40 pounds for each colony. Will it do to hive swarms on these granulated combs. NEW YORK.

ANSWER.-Spray the combs with water, preferably warm, and give them to the bees. When they are cleaned out dry, spray them again until all is cleaned up. If there are no neighbors' bees to share the spoils, you can make a quicker job of it by setting the frames out where the bees can rob them out. They will be all right to give to swarms, only there will be waste if the candied honey is not wet, and you can not well wet the combs after the queen lays in them.

What Became of the Queen? Why did one of my colonies of bees go wrong? I doubled a light one, or set a light one on a medium heavy one when putting them out of the cellar in the spring. The lower hive had a queen. She went up into the top hive and made a lot of brood, also in the lower hive. It appeared to be the strongest colony I had. I went to it the other day to get a frame of brood to test another colony, but was surprised to find no brood nor eggs nor any signs of a queen. They are starting a queen-cell on the brood I put in. Will it make a satisfactory queen? The cell is not very large.

IOWA.

ANSWER.-If I understand correctly, you found plenty of brood in both hives after they were put together, so that it appears the queen was all right for some time after the uniting. It is possible that at the time you looked to find this brood, you may have accidentally killed the queen in shoving the frames together. Not very likely, however. It is pos sible that after you closed the hive the bees took offense and balled the queen, killing her. Some object to much opening of hives in spring on this account. It is also possible that the queen just naturally played out and the bees were trying to supersede her. Queens generally play out at or about the close of harvest, but sometimes in spring. The queen they rear may turn out good, but generally a queen reared so early is bad.

2 or 3 frames of brood from the good colony, put them in an empty hive, fill out with empty combs or frames filled with foundation, and set this on the stand of the bad colony, moving the bad colony to a new place close by. Now lift out 2 or 3 frames from the bad colony (be sure you don't get the queen), and shake the bees from these frames into your new hive, returning to the bad colony its 2 frames of brood. In something like 2 weeks there ought to be a queen laying in your new hive. You strengthen it by adding brood and bees from the bad hive, or you can unite with it all of the bees and brood, kilung the bad queen 2 3 days before uniting. Perhaps you would like to have 2 colonies instead of one. In that case kill the bad queen a week after the first move, and 2 or 3 days later exchange one of the 2 frames in your hive for one of the frames in the bad hive, making sure there is a cell on the frame, and also on the frame you leave.

ог

can

new

2. Nowadays the tendency seems rather toward the single-walled hive, with protection for outdoor wintering.

Cyprian Queens.

Where can one get Cyprian queens? ILLINOIS. ANSWER. I don't know. If any one has them for sale, one would think an advertisement of them would appear by the time this gets into print.

Two Queens in One Hive.

a

To increase a colony more rapidly, would it be possible for me to put 2 queens, each having a 2-frame nucleus, with division. board between, in one hive, and later, as the queens filled their frames with brood, take away one of the queens, and by thus doing, unite the two? A SUBSCRIBER.

ANSWER. If I understand, your idea is to have two queens at work while the colony is weak so that you may the sooner have a strong colony. It won't work. The two nuclei with two frames of brood each will not

build up as fast as one queen with four frames of brood. For a single queen can lay eggs faster than they can be cared for by the bees until the colony is strong enough to cover a good deal more than four combs. Some queens can keep 12 to 15 frames of brood going.

Foul Brood-Winter Size of Hive-
Entrance-Bees Stinging
Some People.

1. Ought I to use brood-frames which contain perfect combs, i. e., those showing no signs of foul brood, if purchased in a lot of hives, part of which I suspected were infected?

2. Would there be danger of introducing foul brood from using the supers from these hives containing the sections?

3. Would it make any difference if empty comb were built in the sections, no cells containing honey.

tween you and another person when they are in a stinging mood, neither person having angered them?

7. Are there persons whom bees seem to hate worse than an average person?

8. If so, can you give any reason for it? MAINE. ANSWERS.-1. There is danger. Don't use them unless you keep close watch.

2. I'm not sure there's any danger; certainly very little.

3. That would probably make no difference. And yet foul brood is such a dangerous thing to have anything to do with that I would hardly want to have in my apiary a bee journal containing an article on foul brood.

4. Views differ; perhaps 4 inches by 38.

5. It may be as well to leave it, so long as the air can work its way freely through the snow. Yet if the snow be very deep, some have reported trouble from too great warmth. 6. I don't suppose they do. 7. Yes.

8. Like enough the difference in odor. Some people have an odor that you can smell. Bees may have such a sharp smell that they smell odors imperceptible to you, and the odor of some people may be very objectionable to them.

can

Getting Honey to Granulate. Under what conditions can extracted honey be most quickly crystallized, or candied, so that it can be sold in paper packages? I am not engaged in bee-keeping, and haven't much literature on the subject. CALIFORNIA.

ANSWER.-In Europe. where there is more desire to have honey granulate than here, they stir the honey occasionally. Mixing a little granulated honey with the liquid also helps. There is a great difference in the kinds of honey. Some honey begins to granulate as soon as extracted, while other honey may remain liquid a year or more.

Rearing Queens-Caucasian Bees. I have held back long enough. I must out with it and ask a question about rearing queens. I have been working with bees now for 4 years and have 25 colonies. I have spent a good deal buying books about rearing queens, but have never reared a queen. Now no doubt all small dealers would like to know what I am about to ask, that is, how to rear a few queens for home use, without having to transfer larvæ or working with cell-cups, and so on. I believe I will put my question in this form-I will outline a plan given to me by a friend which I tried but failed.

1. I am using the Hand sectional hive. He told me to take a strong colony, put most of the brood above an excluder, and after 10 days take the lower part of the hive to a new stand. Now prepare some little sticks of wood % of an inch square by 2 inches long; tack a little piece of tin across the end so as to hang them in a frame prepared for them. In this way instead of a top-bar tack some little thin pieces say half-inch wide, on each side of the end-bars, so as to form a top-bar having an open space to hang the blocks of wood in. Now take from the hive you want to breed from a piece of comb containing eggs, split this comb up in a little pieces that will contain one or more eggs. Having your knife sharp, and warmed over a lamp, trim the cells so they will be shallow. Now with some melted wax stick these little pieces on the end of the blocks of wood, and hang them in the frame. Now go to this prepared hive, take out one side-frame so you can spread the frames in the center, then hang in the frame with the eggs on the blocks, seeing first that there are no queencells started. In 16 days you will have queen-cells.

Now, what do you think of this plan? If they would use them and make cells it seems to me it would be a nice and easy way to handle them, one could handle them on the sticks very easily, or they could be protected by a cell-protector and introduced where you want them. Do you see any serious fault with this plan?

I have your plan given in the Journal of June 20, 1907; I cut it out, as I thought it was the simplest plan I ever saw.

2. I read the piece, "Good Caucasians," in the last Journal. Now it has just fired me up again to Caucasian all my colonies. I have bought one Caucasian queen. It seems to be the most active colony that I have - the only one that has swarmed; they all went

back into the hives.

I gave them a super and they have gone to work. Would you advise me to rear queens from this one, or buy full-blooded ones? Of course the queens I would rear from this one would be only half-breeds, as they would mate with drones VIRGINIA. that they chanced to meet.

ANSWERS.-1. At the risk of being accused of getting in an advertisement here, I cannot help wishing you had got a copy of my book Forty Years Among the Bees," and followed the plan there given. Still, on page 551 of the number you mention is a succinct statement of the plan, which I advise you to follow. The plan you outline may work out all right, but the plan I give is, I think, simpler, and suspect you will be more successful with it. There is a point, however, that should be mentioned. You are told to give a frame with one or two small starters to your best queen, in order to get a frame of virgin comb with eggs and young brood to be used to get good queen-cells. If your best queen is in a strong colony it is likely that a large part of the comb built will be dronecomb, possibly all drone-comb, and you can rear good queens from drone-comb. To make sure of worker-brood, let the frame be filled with worker-foundation. A better way, however. is to keep your best queen not in a strong colony, but a colony or nucleus having only 2 or 3 frames of brood. Then the bees will build all worker-comb with small starters. Another reason I keep my best in a weak colony is that she may live as long as possible, for in a strong colony she will wear out sooner than in a nucleus. My best queen, so far as I now know, was reared in 1906, and her colony will not be expected to produce any honey this year, for I want her to live till next year if she will be so obliging. Of course, I may not want to use her another year, for I may happen to have a better queen then.

2. It will be perhaps just as yell to rear queens from the Caucasian queen you have, for even if you get all pure queens you will have mixed stock in a year or So. Then if you decide you want to keep the Caucasian stock you can get a new queen another year. It may be well for you not to be in too great haste about deciding as to the merits of Caucasians, so long as views regarding them are so conflicting.

Getting Straight Combs.

How do

were

you get straight combs built? Last year I used full sheets of foundation. frames The wired with 4 horizontal wires. Almost every one "buckled" between the wires, and they are a bad lot of combs. KANSAS.

ANSWER.-I wonder if you didn't depend entirely on the wires. The foundation should be fastened securely to the top-bar, either by means of the kerf and wedge, or what some think better in a very dry climate, waxing the foundation to the top-bar, that is, running melted wax along the edge of the foundation on the top-bar. But you will probably have less sagging of foundation if you use foundation splints that have been heretofore described in these columns, as well as in the book "Forty Years Among the Bees."

Porter Bee-Escapes-Killing Bees in Manipulating-Honey from BoxHives Into Sections.

1. Will queens and drones through the Porter bee-escape?

pass easily

2. Does the Porter bee-escape often get clogged up with bees trying to carry out dead bees, larvae, etc.?

3. I can not yet avoid killing from one to 12 or more bees at each opening and closing of hives. About what is the average number of bees killed at each manipulation by the av erage experienced bee-keeper with say 100 colonies?

4. What is the color of locust honey? 5. On a Friday 2 swarms came out together and formed one cluster. I prepared 2 hives and put a frame of eggs in each. I divided the cluster between those 2 hives and each got a queen the following Sunday morning. The bees in one of the hives dragged out the queen nearly dead.

I res

cued her, and whilst in my hand she deposited an egg, so she was the old queen (one of the swarms was an afterswarm). The swarm then started queen-cells. Why was the queen killed after she had been with the swarm two days?

6. Is there any plan whereby the bees can

be induced to transfer the honey out of a box-hive into sections? CALIFORNIA.

ANSWERS.-1. Yes; although not quite so easily as workers.

2. Yes, although there is not much chance for it. Dead bees are not likely to be in supers, neither is brood often present.

3. Not easy to say. By being very careful one might manipulate 100 colonies without killing bee. But it hardly pays to go so slow as that. Perhaps 100 bees would be killed in the whole lot. But that's only guessing.

4. I don't know.

5. It is not so very uncommon to find bees hostile to a queen and yet not actually kill her for 2 days, or even a week.

6. I think some have claimed to succeed by setting the hive over the sections until well occupied with bees, and then setting the box-hive away some distance with the entrance large enough for only one bee at a time. never made a great success at it.

Sweet Clover Not White Clover.

In reading American papers, I observe frequent references to sweet clover as a plant for bee-pasturage. Is it the same as white clover (trifolium repens perenne) which is the staple bee-pasturage here during the summer months. NEW ZEALAND.

ANSWER. Oh, no, it's an entirely different thing, growing sometimes to the height of 8 or 9 feet, although 3 or 4 feet is a more common growth. The most common sweet clover is melilotus alba. It is a biennial, coming from the seed one year, blossoming the next, and then dying root and branch. I don't know how much more nectar an acre of sweet clover would yield than an acre of white clover, but should guess at least 5 times as much. Even if bees have all they can do on white clover, sweet clover is valuable, because while it begins bloom later than white clover it continues much later, till frost.

even

There is a yellow sweet clover which blooms Sweet clover 3 weeks earlier than the white. will grow where scarcely anything else will, as in a clay bank. It seems to flourish best, or at least to start from the seed best, on hard ground trodden by farm stock.

Queen-Cell Cups and SwarmingWashing the Extractor-Smoking Bees.

1. In manipulating my colonies this spring, swarming has received more than usual attention, and this question has presented itself quite often: Does the presence of queen. cell cups without eggs or brood always indicate a desire to swarm?

2. How long may an extractor remain without washing? That is, how long may the extractings be apart without injuring anything.

3. In Gleanings, page 250, E. D. Townsend says that when the bees get stirred up and a good many of them in the air, "we alternate between smoking the bees in the air and those in the hive until most of the flying ones have settled down.' Now, how does he smoke the bees in the air? It seems to me one might smoke quite a little while without getting much results. Do you smoke CALIFORNIA. those in the air?

Swarm Management - Best BeeBook-Georgia for Bees, Etc.

1. This is my plan. Am I right or wrong? I have 12 box-hives. I am going to let them swarm naturally and put the new swarms in dovetailed hives (8-frame), and run for comb honey. I am going to keep the box-hives to supply me with swarms, and do all I can to prevent the colonies in the frame-hives from swarming.

2. One of my box-hive colonies died and I cut out some of the nice combs and stuck them in the frames of one of the new hives, thinking I would give the first swarm a good start and soon have a super of fine honey.

The first swarm came out April 15, and it was a large one. I think there must have been a peck of bees in that swarm. I was overjoyed. So I set about and quickly had them hived; but alas, my precious bees spent just 2 hours with me, when they came bulging out. I threw sand, beat pans, but nothing on earth could stop the onward rush of those absconding bees. So I said, 'So long," and let them go their way. I had plenty of foundation, but I thought the combs would be better. I examined the hive after they left and found that they had torn down every piece of comb. Please show me my mistake.

3. Will 2-inch strips of nice combs in the super answer as well as foundation? What is the best method of sticking them in?

4. Are supers ever left on the hives in the winter?

5. I notice in some of my hives that 5 or 6 bees get in the hive-entrance and seem to stand on their heads and make a buzzing noise, and they won't move for anything. The bees can run right over them but they are stuck right there, and keep on buzzing. What makes them do that? and what does it mean? 6. What bee-book would be best for me (a beginner) to get?

7. Do you consider middle Georgia a good place to keep bees for profit? We have no clover, but have about everything else. The season opens here the first of April, and lasts until the first of September.

we

8. By using a one-inch strip of foundation in the brood-chamber and supers, should I expect to get one filled super from each new swarm? GEORGIA.

3. Yes. Have a dish of melted wax; dip one edge of the comb in the wax, and then stick it where you want it to stay.

4. Yes, but you should never leave a super of sections on after the harvest has closed. They will be darkened by the bees.

5. Those bees are ventilating, and you can't do anything for them.

6. "Root's A B C and X Y Z of BeeCulture," Dadant's "Langstroth on the HoneyBee," and Cook's "Bee-Keeper's Guide," all are good. bee-keepers do very well in

7. Some Georgia.

8. In a good season you might do better than that if you do as directed in Answer 1.

Brood Killed by Heat.

In answering my question in the American Bee Journal you asked me if I had ever known bees to allow the inside of a hive to become

hot enough to kill the brood. I have. It was the middle of last July. The hives (3 in all) were double-walled ones, 2 stories high, and painted a walnut color. I was trying to introduce a queen to one of the colonies, and the hive got hot enough inside not only to kill a good bit of the brood, but it also killed the queen and her escort bees. It also drove nearly all the other bees outside the hive. I opened the hive at noon on this particular day to see how the queen was. I found nealy all her escort bees dead, and herself nearly so. She died before night. I took some of the combs out to see how things were inside the hive. As I lifted one comb out I saw young larvæ leave the bottom of the cells, and travel as fast as they could for the entrance to the cells. Some came clear out, while others came only part way out. Some of those that remained in the bottom of the cells died, as well as those that came part way out. And more or less of that which was sealed over was also killed. The bees did not remove a good share of the dead brood before it rotted. It was rotten or nearly so, by the next afternoon, and the bees refused to touch the nasty stuff. They dried up to nothing but dark spots, some on the bottom, the sides, and some in the bottom of the cells. I had never had a case of foul brood, and knew nothing about it except

what I had read. But I was afraid of that rotten stuff. I looked at the bee-books and papers to see if I could find the causes of foul brood, but did not get much satisfaction. So there was nothing to do but destroy the combs, or leave them alone. If I destroyed the combs I would learn nothing. But if I left them alone I would. I decided to leave them alone, and learn from experience. And if need be, pay for my knowledge. And I paid.

4.

I had only 4 colonies, and I lost 3 out of the The fourth colony was in a single-walled hive, and painted white, and stood the heat all right. When the bees tried to rear brood in those combs again dead brood appeared in scattered cells. Some died before being sealed, others after. As the season advanced the amount of dead brood increased. And the strength of the colonies diminished until at the beginning of winter but few bees were left in either of the hives. And they died the first of the winter. I have not destroyed the combs yet, uut intend to do so. They are where no bees can get to them. I thought before destroying the combs I would try to find out whether it was foul brood. And in about 2 days after this letter is mailed I intend to mail a sample of comb and dead brood to you to see what you think about it. When you receive it do anything you have a mind to with it, and then let me know whether it is dead or foul-brood. If it is not, it is not one whit better. What's in a name, anyway? "A rose by any other name would smell as sweet. Whatever it is, it was caused by the brood that was killed by the heat. And that is one thing about it that I am sure of. The brood was perfectly healthy and all right before being killed by the heat. MICHIGAN.

ANSWER. I've had combs melt down in hives. but never brood killed by the heat. It may, however, be more common than I think. I am also surprised that the bees did not clean out the dead brood. As the brood was rotten, or nearly so, by the next afternoon, it could hardly be that this was caused by any contagious disease, provided the colony was healthy before the roasting, for it is not likely that any disease could develop so rapidly.

The sample of dead brood sent has come to hand. You ask me to let you know whether or not it is dead. I am strongly of the opinion that it is. It has the appearance of being very dead. As to whether it is affected by foul brood or something equally as bad, I don't know. As I have repeatedly said in this department, I'm not an expert on bee-diseases. I think I'll send it to General Manager N. E. France and see what he calls it.

But supposing it is a case of foul brood, that doesn't prove that foul brood could result from dead brood killed by heat. There is the possibility that there was some source of contagion within reach of your bees. It would be hard for you to be positive that no diseased colony was within a mile or two. Still harder would it be for you to be certain that there was no case in which some one had brought honey from a diseased colony perhaps a hundred miles away, some of tuis honey being where your bees could get it. At any rate, the authorities tell us that rotten brood will no more start foul brood without the seeds of the disease than a field of corn can be started without any corn as seed.

Later I sent the sample to Mr. France, and his reply is: "Any one with such combs should at once write Michigan Inspector, R. L. Taylor, of Lapeer, Mich., to call at once.' So I suppose there is no doubt that the brood is not only dead but diseased. But, as before intimated, that's no proof that killing the brood made it diseased.

out of the cellar until the very last of April. It snowed almost every day the first week in May. We had quite a snowstorm the 1st. The bees are not so strong as when I took them out of the cellar, April 1, 2, and 3. I look for a heavy loss in this section. They have scarcely any brood, not half as much as when I took them from the cellar. The queens are laying, and there are plenty of eggs, but no brood to speak of-too cold for brood-rearing. GEO. B. HOWE.

Black River, N. Y.. May 8.

Disinfecting Combs.

We are told that to keep combs free from the wax-worms we should use bisulphide of carbon; and once is a plenty. March 20. 1906, I had 29 colonies living. Fine weather, and soft maple and elm came out in blossom, and the bees worked well until the evening. March 31, at sundown, the wind turned northwest and it was cold all through April. When it became warm in May so that bees could fly, I had just 9 colonies liv. ing, so I was pretty nearly cleaned out. There was brood in every hive-from 2 to 3 frames. Not any was smaller than a man's hand in size, with 10 to 30 pounds of honey in the hives, so I had a mess to clean up. set the hives back of the hives with bees. They cleaned them out well, all but one hive. They cut the combs badly, but did not spoil them.

I

After the bees had cleaned up all and left, I soon found that the wax-worms began to work. So I got one pound of bisulphide of carbon, then cut a lath as long as the hive, 16 inches, wrapped newspaper around the lath and nailed at each end. This closed the front tight. Then I took 2 pieces of paper that covered the top well. Then I turned into the hive 2 tablespoonfuls of bisulphide of carbon and put the papers and then the honey-board on. I used a brick for a weight. I found it to be necessary to do this once in a week or 10 days, or the worms would get the start of the bee-keeper. They spoiled 2 sets of combs for me after using the first time. Since then I have kept the combs free from the worms, for 2 years.

I have 23 hives with full sets of combs, and it costs me my time and 2 pounds of bisulphate of carbon, and the combs are good. "Once a week, and keep dry."

Bergen, N. Y., May 12.

E. TUCKER.

Expects Honey Later.

Bees have got down to business here at last. My bees are swarming, and swarms are being caught in the woods every day. Almost all are being put into box-hives. can't get the farmer in the bee-business interested in the movable-frame hive. The poplar is in bloom, and we will have some flowers from this time on. I am looking for some honey after a while. R. V. PERRY. Greenfield, Tenn., May 13.

me.

Drinking Milk with Honey.

In the April issue I notice "Honey gives him stomach-ache." I hesitate to correct Dr. Miller's answer, but as it will aid the consumption of honey, perhaps he will forgive Advise them to drink milk when they eat honey, and it will stop fermentation. It seems the casein neutralizes the acid produced in fermentation just as cheese does in pastry, and in cases where fermentation becomes chronic the albumen of eggs. This condition is often found where people are troubled with uric acid. Then if milk or albumen do not accomplish the trick, take 1⁄2 teaspoonful of bicarbonate of soda and 1/4 teaspoonful of bismuth subnitrate from 2 to 2 hours after eating honey. Fermentation, if long continued and unchecked, will produce ulceration of the stomach and perhaps cancer. Valhalla, N. Y.

A. RICHTER.

Caucasian Bees.

On page 151, F. W. Blakely refers to an Iowa writer on page 313, for October, 1908, in which he draws attention to what I said in regard to Caucasian bees as not being desir able to keep. I wish to say that I am not accustomed to write for the public, and that ir I failed to make myself understood, he must excuse me. The queen referred to was an Italian I introduced to supersede a Caucasian queen. In 1907 I sent for 8 Caucasian queens, and got them safely introduced. They did fairly well, and came through the

winter all right; they received the same treatment my other bees did; they did fairly well, but my Italians and hybrids did better. I find that they are much given to dronerearing. I hived one swarm on full sheets of foundation and in due time they had a fine lot of combs filled with brood and honey; but what took me by surprise was, that i found one comb near the center of the hive about one-third full of drone-brood in workercells, and the drones seemed to be nearly as large as those reared in drone-cells. I find also that they will rear a large number of queens when they swarm. Most of the combs from which the swarm came had from 2 to a dozen or more queen-cells on each, and I am led to believe that the queens are not quite as large as queens from other bees. At least, I found that a larger percentage would go through queen-excluding zinc. Those bees would carry in no more propolis than other bees during the summer, but it was only at the close of the season that they would plug up the entrance.

In color they are very much like black bees, but of a more greyish appearance, particularly when young. When out in the field,

I could not tell them from black bees with any certainty. I find them very gentle at almost any time when other bees are inclined to be cross. My bees are mostly what are called the golden Italians, not the longtongued red clover bees, yet I find that bees will work on red clover for a day or two every year if the conditions are right-not alone the Italians, but hybrids and blacks as well.

Now, Mr. Blakely, if you find that I have made further misrepresentations, please point them out, and I will try to correct them. FRED BECHLY.

Searsboro. Iowa, April 10.

Good Prospect for Honey Crop.

The outlook for a good crop of honey is good here at this time. My bees wintered fine. I had not a single loss out of 26 colonies; all came through in fine shape. but one, which is, I believe, queenless. I winter them on the summer stands in singlewalled hives, and never lose a colony, except from carelessly letting the entrance get sealed up with ice when it sleets. A 3-frame nucleus ordered last season, has done well. I have 2 full colonies now ready to swarm, and got about 30 pounds of fine comb honey from them last fall. I have had no swarm, but am expecting it every day, as the bees are lying out some.

Fruit-bloom was good. Everything was full, and bees made good use of it. Dandelion followed, and now wild cherry and some little clover are in bloom. The prospect for a good white clover honey-flow is excellent, all the talk to the contrary notwithstanding. I sold my last year's crop here at home in the local market, for 122 cents a pound. I could have gotten 15 cents if I had held onto it a little longer. All together the prospect "looks good" to us, and we hope for a good year for all engaged in the business, for business or pleasure. I am in it for both, and get both out of it. There are but few bee-keepers here, and very few indeed who understand the business and run it on business principles.

Lentner, Mo., May 24.

H. S. CARROLL

Flouring Queens Before Intro-
ducing.

On May 3 I received 3 tested queens which I wanted to introduce. Having just read in Gleanings that queens could be introduced by sprinkling the queen as well as the other bees with flour after placing the queen on the frame I thought I would try to experiment. I went to the apiary and selected a colony whose queen had been winter-killed. I took out the frame, sprinkled the queen with flour while in her cage together with her attendants, opened the door of the cage and let her crawl on the frame. As soon as she was on the frame I sprinkled all the bees on the frame. I also took out a few of the other frames and sprinkled them. To my surprise both the queen and her attendants walked unmolested. I put the frame back, and on the 12th I examined the hive again and found the queen all right and laying.

Encouraged with my success I tried to introduce another queen to another colony that had been given brood a few days before, but it was not a success. The queen had no sooner come on the frame than the bees went after her, and before I could rescue her she

Langstroth

on

the

Revised by Dadant-Latest Edition

This is one of the standard books on bee-culture, and ought to be in the library of every bee-keeper. It is bound substantially in cloth and contains nearly 600 pages, being revised by that large, practical bee-keeper, so well-known to all the readers of the American Bee Journal-Mr. C. P. Dadant. Each subject is clearly and thoroughly explained, so that by following the instructions of this book one cannot fail to be wonderfully helped on the way to success with bees.

The book we mail for $1.20, or club it with the American Bee Journal for one year-both for $1.70 or, we will mail it as a premium for sending us 'FIVE NEW subscribers to the Bee Journal for one year, with $3.75.

This is a splendid chance to get a grand bee-book for a very little money or work. Address,

GEORGE W. YORK & CO.,

ITALIAN QUEENS

Reared under supersedure conditions, untested at $1.00 each until after July 10th, when the price will be 75c. Queens ready after May 25th. Send for price list. 5A4t O.F.Fuller, R.F.D.,Blackstone, Mass. Reference, Arthur C.Miller, Providence, R.I. Please mention Am. Bee Journal when writing.

Pacific Homestead

Do you want direct information on the bee, stock, horticultural and agricultural industries of Oregon, Washington and Idaho? Then send 25c in stamps right now for a three months' trial subscription to our Pacific Homestead, the illustrated farm paper of the Pacific Northwest. We give with this our big Holiday number (equivalent to a $2.00 book) containing articles on, .and over 100 illustrations of the entire Pacific Northwest.

Sample copies of current numbers free.

Address

Pacific Homestead

Dept. C.,

6Atf

Salem, Oregon

Please mention Am. Bee Journal when writing.

The American
Institute of Phrenology

incorporated 1866 by Special Act of the New York Legislature, will open its next session the first Wednesday in September. Subjects embraced: Phrenology; Physiognomy: Ethnology; Psychology; Physiology; Anatomy; Hygiene; Heredity; Anthropology. For terms and particulars apply to M. H. Piercy, Secretary, care of FOWLER & WELLS CO., 18 East 22d St., New York, N. Y.

Please mention Am. Bee Journal when writing.

November 1st to July 1st

$ 9.00

1.25 6.50

12.00

1.75 9.00

17.00

2.50 13.50

25.00

Untested...

Select Untested Tested

Select Tested.

50 cents for your trouble.
after you have had her two years, I will refund money, and
oped Queens are sent out, and if not well pleased with Queen,
honey-gatherers in existence. None but select, well-devel-
I have spared neither time nor expense to have the finest

the usual average per colony. Your bees are hustlers.
colony that has not yet swarmed, and they have made more than
The Queen I bought of you last year has done well. She heads a
W. M. PARRISH:-That 1906 Queen is still ahead this season.
COVERT, KANS., July 30, 1908.
CLARENCE A.

W. M. PARRISH, Lawrence, Kans.
honey record, $5.00. Queens ready to send out July 1st.
Queens $1.00 each. Breeding Queens one year old, with

Combined
Red Clover and Golden Italians