dimenfion was added, and the tower then was neceffarily in the middle.

That these edifices are of different ages feems evident. The arch of the first church is Roman, being part of a circle; that of the additional building is pointed, and therefore Gothic, or Saracenical; the tower is firm, and wants only to be floored and covered.

Of the chambers or cells belonging to the monks, there are fome walls remaining, but nothing approaching to a complete apartment.

The bottom of the church is fo incumbered with mud and rubbish, that we could make no difcoveries of curious infcriptions, and what there are have been already published. The place is faid to be know where the black ftones lie concealed, on which the old Highland Chiefs, when they made contracts and alliances, used to take the oath, which was confidered as more facred than any other obligation, and which could not be violated without the blackest infamy. In thofe days of violence and rapine, it was of great importance to imprefs upon favage minds the fanctity of an oath, by fome particular and extraordinary circumftances. They would not have recourse to the black flones, upon fmall or common occasions, and when they had establish

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ed their faith by this tremendous fanction, inconftancy and treachery were no longer feared.

The chapel of the nunnery is now ufed by the inhabitants as a kind of general cow-houfe, and the bottom is confequently too miry for examination. Some of the ftones which covered the later abbeffes have infcriptions, which might yet be read, if the chapel were cleansed. The roof of this, as of all the other buildings, is totally destroyed, not only because timber quickly decays when it is neglected, but because in an ifland utterly deftitute of wood, it was wanted for ufe, and was confequently the firft plunder of needy rapacity.

The chancel of the nuns' chapel is covered with an arch of stone, to which time has done no injury; and a small apartment communicating with the choir, on the north fide, like the chapterhoufe in cathedrals, roofed with stone in the fame manner, is likewife entire.

In one of the churches was a marble altar, which the fuperftition of the inhabitants has deftroyed. Their opinion was, that a fragment of this stone was a defence against fhipwrecks, fire, and miscarriages. In one corner of the church the bason for holy water is yet unbroken.

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The cemetery of the nunnery was, till very lately, regarded with fuch reverence, that only women were buried in it. These reliques of veneration always produce fome mournful pleasure. I could have forgiven a great injury more easily than the violation of this imaginary fanctity.

South of the chapel ftand the walls of a large room, which was probably the hall, or refectory of the nunnery. This apartment is capable of repair. Of the rest of the convent there are on ly fragments.

Befides the two principal churches, there are, I think, five chapels yet ftanding, and three more remembered. There are alfo croffes, of which two bear the names of St. John and St. Matthew.

A large space of ground about these confecrated edifices is covered with grave-ftones, few of which have any infcription. He that furveys it, attended by an infular antiquary, may be told where the Kings of many nations are buried, and if he loves to footh his imagination with the thoughts that naturally rife in places where the great and the powerful lie mingled with the dust, let him liften in fubmiffive filence; for if he asks any questions, his delight is at an end.

Iona has long enjoyed, without any very credible attestation, the honour of being reputed the cemetery of the Scottish Kings. It is not unlikely, that, when the opinion of local fanctity was prevalent, the Chieftains of the Ifles, and perhaps fome of the Norwegian or Irish princes were repofited in this venerable enclosure. But by whom the fubterraneous vaults are peopled is now utterly unknown. The graves are very numerous, aud fome of them undoubtedly contain the remains of men, who did not expect to be fo foon forgotten.

Not far from this awful ground, may be traced' the garden of the monaftery: the fish ponds are yet difcernible, and the aqueduct, which fupplied them, is still in use.

There remains a broken building, which is called the Bishop's houte, I know not by what authority. It was once the refidence of fome man above the common rank, for it has two stories and a chimney. We were fhewn a chimney at the other end, which was only a nich, without perforation, but fo much does antiquarian credulity, or patriotick vanity prevail, that it was not much more fafe to trust the eye of our inftructor than the memory.

There is in the Ifland one house more, and only one, that has a chimney: we entered it, and found it neither wanting repair nor inhabitants; but to the farmers, who now poffefs it, the chimney is of no great value; for their fire was made on the floor, in the middle of the room, and notwithstanding the dignity of their manfion, they rejoiced, like their neighbours, in the comforts of fmoke.

It is obferved, that ecclefiaftical colleges are always in the most pleasant and fruitful places. While the world allowed the monks,their choice, it is furely no difhonour that they chofe well. This Ifland is remarkably fruitful. The village near the churches is faid to contain feventy families, which, at five in a family, is more than a hundred inhabitants to a mile. There are perhaps other villages; yet both corn and cattle are annually exported.

But the fruitfulness of Iona is now its whole profperity. The inhabitants are remarkably grofs, and remarkably neglected: I know not if they are vifited by any Minister. The Island, which was once the metropolis of learning and piety, has now no school for education, nor temple for worship, only two inhabitants that can fpeak English, and not one that can write or read.

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