other substances which give a red color, are de nominated by Dr. Bancroft adjective colors, from their requiring the aid of mordants to give them permanence.

169. Of Dyeing Wool Red.-When woollen stuffs are to be dyed, they are first boiled for two or three hours with alum and tartar: they are then left to drain, slightly wrung out, put into a linen bag, and carried into a cool place, where they must remain for some days. The quantities and proportions of the alum and tartar are varied according to the object of the dyer, and the shade of color which is wanted. Some recommend five ounces of alum, and one ounce of tartar to each pound of wool. By increasing the proportion of tartar to a certain degree, a deep and permanent cinnamon color is produced. This arises from the yellow tinge induced by the acid on the coloring particles of the madder. Others propose to diminish the proportion of tartar, and to use only a seventh part. In conducting the process of dyeing with madder, the bath should not be brought to a boiling heat, because, at that temperature, the fawn-colored particles would be dissolved, and a different shade obtained from that which is desired. When the water is at such a temperature as the hand can bear, Hellot recommends the addition of half a pound of grape madder for every pound of wool to be dyed. It must then be well stirred before the wool is introduced, which must remain for an hour without boiling, excepting for a few minutes towards the end of the process, that the combination of the coloring particles with the stuff may be more certain.

170. Madder reds are sometimes rosed, as it is called, with archil and Brasil wood. In this way they become more beautiful and velvety, but this brightness is not permanent. But madder reds, even when at best, are far inferior to those obtained from lac and cochineal, and even to that produced by kermes; but, as the expense of the materials is comparatively small, they are employed for coarse stuffs.

171. Different authors recommend different proportions of madder. Poerner proposes to employ one-third of the weight of the wool, while Scheffer limits the quantity to one-fourth. Poerner added to the alum and tartar a quantity of solution of tin, equal in weight to the tartar, and, after two hours boiling, allowed the cloth to remain in the bath, which had been left to cool for three or four days. He then dyed it in the usual way, and obtained a fine red. On another occasion he prepared the cloth by the common boiling, and dyed it in a bath slightly heated, with a larger proportion of madder, tartar, and solution of tin. The cloth remained twenty-four hours in the bath, and, when it had become cold, he put it into another bath, made with madder only, where it remained for twenty-four hours. By this process he got a fine red, somewhat brighter than the common, but inclining a little to yellow. Scheffer says that he obtained an orange red by boiling wool with a solution of tin, and one-fourth of alum, and then dyeing with one-fourth of madder. A cherry color, says Bergman, is obtained by using one part of a solution of tin, and two of madder, without previously boiling the

wool. By exposure to the air, this color becomes deeper. By boiling the wool for two hours with one-fourth of sulphate of iron, then washing it, and afterwards immersing it in cold water with one-fourth of madder, and boiling it again for an hour, the result is a coffee color. But if the wool has not been soaked, and if it be dyed with one part of sulphate of iron and two of madder, the color is a brown approaching to red. 172. When sulphate of copper is employed as the mordant, the madder dye yields a clear brown, inclining to yellow; and a similar color may be produced by dyeing the wool simply soaked in hot water, with one part of sulphate of copper, and two of madder. But when this mordant and dye-stuff are used in equal proportions, the yellow is somewhat more obscure, inclining to green; and in both these instances, exposure to the air does not produce a darker color. Berthollet says that he employed a solution of tin in various ways, both in the preparation and the application of the madder; and, by the use of different solutions of tin, he found that, although the tint was a little brighter than what is obtained by the common process, it was always more inclined to yellow or fawn color.

173. Of Dyeing Silk Red.-The red color obtained from madder has not been found of sufficient brilliancy for dyeing silks; M. De la Folie, however, has given the following process for employing it for this purpose:-Half a pound of alum is to be dissolved in each quart of hot water, to which two ounces of potassa are to be added; after the effervescence is over, and the liquor has begun to grow clear, the silk must be soaked in it for two hours; it is then to be washed and put into the madder bath. Silk dyed in this way, he says, becomes more beautiful by the application of the soap proof. Another process is described by Mr. Gulichie, of which the following is the substance.

174. For every pound of silk he proposes a bath of four ounces of alum, and one ounce of solution of tin. When the liquor has become clear, it is decanted, and the silk carefully soaked in it for twelve hours, after which it is to be immersed in a bath with half a pound of madder softened by boiling, with an infusion of galls in white wine. The bath must be kept moderately hot for an hour, and then made to boil for two minutes. The silk, being taken from the bath, is to he washed in a stream of water, and dried in the sun. The color thus produced is said to be very permanent; and, if the galls are omitted, its brilliancy is improved.

175. The color obtained when Brasil-wood is used, is denominated false crimson, to distinguish it from that produced by cochineal, which is much more durable, and which is styled grain crimson. This very beautiful color is obtained by the following process:-The silk, being well cleansed from the soap, is to be immersed in an alum bath of the full strength, and to remain for a night. It is then to be washed, and twice beetled at the river. The bath is prepared by filling a long boiler two-thirds with water, to which are added, when it boils, from half an ounce to two ounces of powdered white galls for every pound of silk. When it has boiled for a few moments, from two

the most beautiful: it possesses a brilliancy which can be communicated to cotton by none of the common processes of dyeing, and has, moreover, the property of more effectually resisting the action of the different re-agents, as alkalis, soap, alum, and acids. For many years the dyeing of this color was confined to the east, and came to us through our Levant trade only. In process of time the art found its way from India to the western parts of Asia, and to Greece; and from Greece to France, whence it was brought to, this country by one of the French dyers, M. Papillon, who settled at Glasgow, where, for a considerable time, he carried on with great success the business of dyeing Turkey-red.

181. M. Papillon communicated his process to the commissioners and trustees for manufactures in Scotland, to be by them published at the expiration of a certain term of years. For this he received a handsome premium; and the process was made public in the year 1803. We need hardly mention the celebrity of the manufactory of Messrs. Monteith and Co. of Glasgow, since it is known to the world at large. The excellency and beauty of their cotton fabrics will not soon be surpassed; the madderreds which they dye rival, in brilliancy and in solidity, any ever produced at Adrianople; and the white figures, distributed over the cloth by the discharging process, surpass in purity, elegance, and precision of outline, the original Bandana outlines.

182. The art of dyeing Turkey-red has been described by different writers, who vary a little from each other in some particulars, but who agree in the leading features of the process. We prefer inserting here the account of it as given by Dr. Bancroft, as it affords us an opportunity of following it up by the insertion of some of his truly valuable remarks upon the subject in reference to the process observed at Rouen in France.

The process is very tedious, and is divided by the dyers into nine different steps.

Step 1. Cleaning. For 100 pounds of cotton take an equal weight of Alicant barilla, twenty pounds of pearl-ashes, and 100 pounds of quicklime. The barilla must be mixed with soft water in a deep tub, which has a small hole near the bottom of it, stopped at first with a peg.This hole is covered in the inside with a cloth supported by two bricks, that the ashes may be prevented from passing through it or stopping it up while the lie filters through it.

Under this tub is another to receive the lie; and pure water is repeatedly passed through the first tub to form lies of different strength, which are kept separate at first until their strength is examined. The strongest required for use must swim an egg, and is called the lie of six degrees of the French hydrometer, or peseliqueur. The weaker are afterwards brought to this strength, by passing them through fresh barilla. But a certain quantity of the weak, which is of 2° of the above hydrometer, is reserved for dissolving the oil and gum, and the salt, which are used in subsequent parts of the process. This lie of 20 is called the weak barilla liquor, the other is called the strong.

Dissolve the pearl-ashes in ten pails, of four gallons each, of soft water, and the lime in fourteen pails.

Let all the liquors stand till they become quite clear, and then mix ten pails of each. Boil the cotton in the mixture five hours, then wash it in running water and dry it.

Step 2. Take a sufficient quantity, say ten pails (of four gallons each), of the strong barilla water in a tub, and dissolve or dilute in it two pails full of sheep's dung; then pour into it two quart bottles of oil of vitriol, and one pound of gum arabic, and one pound of sal ammoniac, both previously dissolved in a sufficient quantity of the weak barilla water, and lastly, twenty-five pounds of olive oil, which has been previously dissolved or well mixed with two pails of the weak barilla water.

The materials of this steep being well mixed, tramp or tread down the cotton into it, until it is well soaked; let it steep twenty-four hours, and then wring it hard and dry it.

Steep it again twenty-four hours, and again wring and dry it.

Steep it a third time twenty-four hours, after which wring and dry it, and lastly wash it well and dry it.

Step 3. This part of the process is precisely the same with the last, except that the sheep's dung is omitted in the composition of the steep.

Step 4. Boil twenty-five pounds of galls, bruised, in ten pails of river water, until four or five are boiled away; strain the liquor into a tub, and pour cold water on the galls in the strainer, to wash out of them all their tincture.

As soon as the liquor is become milk-warm, dip your cotton hank by hank, handling it carefully all the time, and let it steep twenty-four hours.

Then wring it carefully and equally, and dry it well without washing.

Step 5. Dissolve twenty-five pounds of Roman alum in fourteen pails of warm water, without making it boil; skim the liquor well, and add two pails of strong barilla water, and then let it cool until it be lukewarm.

Dip the cotton, and handle it hank by hank, and let it steep twenty-four hours, and wring it equally and dry it well without washing.

Step 6. Is performed in every particular like the last; but after the cotton is dry, you steep it six hours in the river, and wash and dry it.

Step 7. The cotton is dyed by about ten pounds at once, for which take two gallons and a half of ox blood, and mix it in the copper with twenty-eight pails of milk-warm water, and stir it well; then add twenty-five pounds of madder, and stir all well together. Then, having beforehand put the ten pounds of cotton on sticks, dip it into the liquor, and move and turn it constantly one hour, during which you gradually increase the heat, until the liquor begin to boil at the end of the hour. Then sink the cotton, and boil it gently one hour longer; and, lastly, wash it and dry it.

Take out so much of the boiling liquor, that what remains may produce a milk-warm heat with the fresh water with which the copper is again filled up, and then proceed to make up a

dyeing liquor as above, for the next ten pounds

of cotton.

Step 8. Mix equal parts of the gray steep liquor, and of the white steep liquor, taking five or six pails of each. Tread down the cotton into this mixture, and let it steep six hours, then wring it moderately and ecually, and dry it without washing.

Step 9. Ten pounds of white soap must be dissolved most carefully and most completely in sixteen or eighteen pails of warm water; if any little bits of the soap remain undissolved they will make spots in the cotton. Add four pails of strong barilla water, and stir it well. Sink your cotton in this liquor, keeping it down with cross sticks, and cover it up and boil it gently two hours, then wash and dry it, and it is finished.

Such is the process of M. Papillon, on which Dr. Bancroft makes the following observations.

Step 1. At Rouen two courses of operations are practised to produce the Turkey-red. One is called the gray course, and the other the yellow course. In the former, the cotton, after being alumed, receives no more oil, but goes to the dyeing vessel, retaining the gray color, which naturally results from its being impregnated with alum and galls in combination. But, in the yellow course, the cotton, after being alumed, is again immersed in the oleaginous mixtures or steeps, by which it acquires a yellow color. The gray course may consist either of fifteen steeps or of nineteen, and the yellow of twenty. The first of these courses has most similitude to that of M. Papillon. At Rouen, the cleansing operation is performed with a very weak lie of soda, of only one degree of the areometer, employing 150 gallons to 100 pounds of cotton, which is to be boiled therein six hours, then drained, well rinsed in running water, and afterwards dried. This operation is intended to free the cotton from all impure or extraneous matter; but not to produce effects like those of bleaching by exposure upon the grass, which, until lately, it was believed, would lessen the durability of the colors to be subsequently dyed.

Step 2. The steep here described contains three ingredients not employed by any other person; and one of these, the sulphuric acid, seems to indicate a want of chemical knowledge in M. Papillon, because, by neutralising the soda, it must obstruct the effect which the latter is intended to produce (that of rendering the oil miscible with water), or at least render a greater proportion of it necessary in order to obtain that effect. In regard to the other two ingredients, viz. the gum and sal ammoniac, the quantity of the former is by much too small to produce any considerable effect, and it is not easy to form any conjecture what purpose the latter is to answer. At Rouen, this steep is prepared by steeping twenty-five or thirty pounds of sheep's dung several days in a lie of soda, marking four degrees, which is to be diluted until it amounts to forty gallons; and the dung being squeezed and broken by the hands, is afterwards made to pass through a copper pan, provided with numerous small holes, into a tub containing twelve pounds and a half of fat oil, and in this the oil and dung

are, by sufficient stirring, to be well mixed with the lie and with each other; and, in the mixture, which contains but half the quantity of oil prescribed by M. Papillon, the cotton is to be steeped, &c., as directed by the latter. It is highly important that, after this and each of the succeeding operations, the cotton should be thoroughly and completely dried by a stove heat.

Step 3. At Rouen this steep is prepared by mixing thirty-eight gallons of lie of soda with ten pounds of olive oil, stirring until the mixture becomes uniformly milky; which it will do without any separation of the oil, if the quality of the oil be suited to this use; this they add to what may have been left of the former steep, and, after mixing them properly, they impregnate the cotton by the usual treatment, drying it, after an interval of twelve hours, first in the open air, and afterwards by a stove heat. This steeping and subsequent drying must be repeated once, twice, or three times, according to circumstances.

Between this white steep and the following gall steep, it is the practice at Rouen to employ three salt steeps and one cleansing operation. In the first, twenty-four gallons of the lie of soda, marking two degrees and a half, are mixed in a tub with the remnant of the white steep; and the cotton is impregnated and dried, as in the former operations. In the next the remnant of the last steep is mixed with twenty gallons of the lie of soda, marking three degrees; and the cotton is steeped and dried as before. In the third, the remnant of the preceding steep is mixed with twenty-four gallons of the lie of soda, marking three degrees and a half, and with this the cotton is impregnated and dried as before. The residuum of this steep is preserved to be used in the brightening operation.

In the cleansing operation, the cotton is steeped one hour in lukewarm water, then wrung by hand, and afterwards washed in a stream of water to remove any superfluous oil which might obstruct the equal application and uniform effect of the following gall-steep, and thereby render the color unequal. After being so washed, the cotton is dried first in the open air, and afterwards by a stove-heat.

Step 4. This constitutes the eighth operation in the gray course at Rouen, where, as well as in M. Papillon's process, galls, in sorts, seem now to be employed. At Rouen, the cotton, as soon as it has sufficiently imbibed the soluble matter of the galls, and been very moderately wrung, is spread as expeditiously as possible in the open air, if the weather be dry, or, if not, under cover; but the drying is always finished by a stove heat.

Step 5. At Rouen, thirty or thirty-five pounds of the purest alum are commonly employed for this steep, with only seven pails of hot-water, adding, when the alum has been dissolved, two gallons only of the lie of soda, marking four degrees. But when these proportions are employed, the cotton is not subjected to a second steep with alum. Sometimes, however, at Rouen, two steeps with the aluminous mordants are employed; and in that case twenty pounds of alum are dissolved for the first, and fifteen for the se