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John Winthrop. The old Groton church still stands, like the old Scrooby church. There the great Governor's ancestors are buried; and in the chancel there is a beautiful memorial window to the Governor himself, placed there by our Robert C. Winthrop. We went to Norwich, so important in the histories of both Robert Browne and John Robinson. And then we came to old Boston, on the banks of the Witham, by the Lincolnshire coast; and we should like to write - but we remember that this is an article about Scrooby and not about Boston-something about its grand old church, the finest parish church in England, its lofty tower a beacon for all the country round about and for the ships at sea; and something about the Cotton chapel; and something about the simple wedding which we saw in the

church, and the romance we were told about the bride and the young American husband; and something of the cells under the Guildhall, where tradition says the Pilgrims were imprisoned when captured in their attempt to escape from Boston; and something of the pride of old Boston in her great daughter over the sea. Everywhere the same names which we are used to in New England bear witness that this is indeed the land of our fathers. Boston, Cambridge, Norwich, Yarmouth, Ipswich, Sudbury, Groton, Hingham, and a hundred more, they are alike in New England and here in the eastern counties of Old England. But where in New England are Austerfield and Scrooby?

We wished that Gringley-on-the-Hill were Scrooby, and we did not like to come down to the plain again; though we found Scrooby pretty, too, when we came to it, in the green meadow by the Idle. A less important little village than the Scrooby of to-day it would be hard to find in all Nottinghamshire. The bright girl in the white apron, at the White Hart, in Gainsboro, was sure there was no such place at all; and the man who drove us over, talking of Sir Henry Thompson's chances for Par

and its past, however small it is; and here and there over England are those who, as they rattle past in the railroad train, look out with interest upon the little cluster of brick houses round the church, and think of the story of Brewster and Bradford, and of the great oak beyond the sea which has grown from this little acorn. The young surveyor who came into the coffee-room of the Crown Inn at Bawtry, and had dinner with us there, told us, not knowing what our errand was, nor even that we were Americans, not to fail to see Scrooby, for it was the old home of the Pilgrim Fathers.

The American pilgrim to Scrooby asks first for the traces which connect the present with the past.

"The general features of the landscape - the long, low, fertile slopes, the verdant marshes, the meandering Ryton-are unchanged. Standing by the sycamores and turning toward the southwest, the view, beyond question, is still almost

identical with that which used to meet the eye of Brewster as he looked from his windows upon the sunset. The beautiful, but to him inhospitable, church, with its graceful gray spire, is the same, -with that spire, at least, unchanged in its exterior, which Leland, in 1541, described as not stone'; while the cottages, if most are not identibig, but very well builded of square polished cal, retain the old, essential, English cottage look.

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liament, and of the Americans who had bought old clocks of his master, and of the two gentlemen who had newly taken the house by Beckingham, and the rest, had never had a passenger for Scrooby before, and at two or three cross-roads had to inquire the way, regretting at the end that he had not come by Bawtry instead of by Ramskill. But Scrooby knows itself

The sycamores themselves are supposed to have been planted subsequently, and to mark the site of the main building, now destroyed and gone. The present farm-house is surely in part ancient enough to maintain its claim to have formed a portion of the original structure. Aside from the huge round arch, now filled up with later masonry, and a remarkable niche in one of the walls, inex

plicable upon any theory which would connect it

with the present uses of the building, two rooms, those nearest the bow-window, are very remarkable

for the thickness of their walls, the castellated look of their windows, and their general aspect of having seen better days. In the garden between the cottage and the cattle-buildings, and quite near to the latter, stands what is left of Cardinal Wolsey's mulberry-tree, of whose fruit Brewster must have eaten in its young prime. It is now but a mere hollow stump, perhaps ten feet high, with a few green shoots feathering its one live side. The most suggestive relic of all is found in the cow-house beyond, in which do duty, as a

pies, and where a crowd of men and women and boys and girls were gathering peas. It is a bright, busy village, with a market-place, and is the best place for the visitor to the Pilgrim country to make his headquarters. One mile beyond Bawtry, as one comes from Scrooby, is the little village of Austerfield, whither we walked at evening. Austerfield was the home of

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framework holding up its rude title roof, certain old carved oak tie-beams and rafters, which are most manifestly legacies of some prouder structure fallen to decay. As nearly as I could pace the earthen floor, I judged that these tie-beams are about seventeen feet span, while, from the number of the beams and rafters rudely ornamented, I imagined that this framework might have been originally designed to cover a room say seventeen by seventy feet, probably the great hall or chapel of the manor-house. If I am right in this conjecture, it becomes eminently probable-since the Sabbath assemblies of these Separatists would have almost necessarily occupied that room in the structure- that these oaken beams were over the heads of the Mayflower church when they covenanted together to be the Lord's, and vibrated to the strong music of their faithful praise, 'whose hearts,' Bradford says, 'ye Lord had touched wth heavenly zeal for his trueth.'"

Bawtry is two miles from Scrooby, with a pretty road between, by fields which, when we passed them, were red with pop

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young William Bradford. The little church in which he was baptized is one of the oldest and smallest and most curious in England. The old parish clerk, who left the shoe he was mending to take us into the church, was glad to see an American, - the greater part of his few visitors were Americans, and wished that he might see America. He was born and had lived all his seventy years - we write of a day four years ago, and now the good old man is dead - at Austerfield, where his father was parish clerk before him. He had hardly ever been away from his home, never to Doncaster, he said, never to York, never to Lincoln. Once he went to Derby ; and once he spent a week in London, -a wondrous week, in which Westminster Abbey and St. Paul's Cathedral and Hyde Park found place. He asked about the

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tween the old grass-grown graves, few of which have any stone to tell who lies moldering beneath, I entered the chapel through the quaint Norman doorway, and sat down in the last pew on the left of the one aisle, one of several which are lettered 'free' on the door.

Bradfords in America, some of whom had been to Austerfield; and he seemed to think of Austerfield's distinguished son quite as much in the genealogical as in the historical connection. He feared that Austerfield to-day was becoming a poor, godless place. Tiny as is the little church, head, the old roof-timbering is concealed by a flat

it was too big, he said, for all who cared to come to it on Sunday; and more came to the little Methodist chapel down the

street.

We wished that it might have been our fortune to be at Austerfield on Sunday. This was the good fortune of Dr. Dexter, into whose companionship it is so natural for the pilgrim to Scrooby to keep falling, and so the reader shall go to church at Austerfield with him instead of with us.

"The interior is plainness itself, made prosaic by rude recent plastering and cheap carpentry. Over

modern ceiling. There were originally 80 sittings, of which 65 were free; but in 1835, when the chapel was floored and repaired (by condensation and the addition of a little gallery projecting over about to the rear of the last line of pews), 75 sittings were added, of which 37 were declared forever free; making the present nominal accommodation (which I think would be found uncomfortable in use) 154 sittings, 102 of which are

perpetually free.

"Only three or four persons were within when I entered, but others soon followed us, until nearly fifty were present, the majority looking like peas

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"It was not quite two P.M. when I put my hand upon the little gate giving admission to the small graveyard in which the church stands. Finding it still locked, I strolled on toward the house which tradition associates -I am not yet clear as to its authenticity with the birth and early life of Governor Bradford, until the pleasant tinkle of the two little bells which swing in the chapel turret began to recall me, by its suggestion that the hour of service was drawing on. These two bells hang side by side, and are pitched three notes apart, so that, as the sexton in the little gallery twitched first one rope and then the other, they kept musically yet monotonously calling the people.

Passing in through the now unclosed gate be

ants, a few like well-to-do and intelligent farmers, and their wives and daughters. A minute or two after the appointed hour (2.30 P.M.) the curate came in, and, putting on his white gown behind a screen near the chancel rail, entered the readingdesk, and knelt in silent prayer. The bell which sounded the highest note then ceased, and the other, after a few tolls, did the same, and the sexton came down out of the little gallery and took his place directly under the reading desk, to act as clerk. There was no organ, no choir, and no singing, and the curate and the clerk had the service pretty much between them; no person, so far as I heard, responding, with the exception of a little boy near me, and myself.

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