Page images

The Guardian.


AUGUST, 1875,

NO. 8.

Unter den Linden, Berlin, Europe. | for promenades; between these two is

another broad avenue, roofed by the BY THE EDITOR.

great linden limbs, used for the same

purpose. "It is surprising that the foundation We will take our place at the Branof a town should ever have been laid denburger Thor, through which the on so uninteresting a spot; but it is far great stream of people move through more wonderful that it should have the city wall, out into the Thiergarten, grown up, notwithstanding, into the the large Berlin park. A great natural flourishing capital of a great empire." forest the latter is, with few artificial soSo says one whose judgment ought to called improvements. This adds to its have weight. Built on the Spree, which charm. For nature, unmolested by in America we would call a creek, in a man, can get up a better park than he. flat un picturesque country, it has grown This great city gate is a copy of one to be the metropolis of the German Em- from an Athenian master-piece. You pire, one of the first cities of the civilized see the tall soldier on guard to the right. world. Its attractions, according to the Twelve men are detached from time to American standard of municipal taste, time for this duty, who take their turn. do not compare favorably with some of Do you hear, “ho!” he cries. Quick as our larger cities. With the exception thought his eleven comrades rush to his of Unter den Linden, its streets are more side. The twelve stand like statues, solid than showy. The houses impress side by side, presenting arms. What you with their substantial appearance, does this mean? Yonder comes a coach, built for durable service rather than drawn by two horses, black as a raven. beauty of architecture. Like the palaces Aside of the coachman sits a liveried of its Emperor and Princes, their mas- servant, with a bushy waving feather on sive walls are built to stand for centu his military cap. You see a tall veneraries.

ble gentleman sitting inside. He is old Let us take a stroll through its prin- and gray-headed. The chilling air has led cipal street, taking for our guide the him to throw his military cloak around Correspondent of an excellent German him. He wears the little military cap religious Journal. The picture shall in use by every German soldier. It is be filled with what his eyes and mine “ father William," the old Emperor. see jointly. Every large city has its Let us lift our hats. Just see, he actuown type of city and social life. So, ally touches his little cap, and greets us too, has Berlin. Unter den Linden is with a smile. Evidently his broad its principal street. Or rather this shoulders feel their burdens. He is no fashionable thoroughfare has five streets longer as erect as the pictures had him side by side. One street on each five years ago. Age begins to bend his side, next to the side-walks for con- noble form. veyancesto use; next to these are two Every week-day he takes his ride rows of large linden trees on each through this street, out through the side, whichform two shaded avenues Thiergarten, between one and two P. M.

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Hence this is the fashionable hour for touching patience he waited to give her promenading in Unter den Linden. All the cheap pleasure of kissing a great this hour you have here a glowing pic- inan's hand.” ture of Berlin life. And whoever wishes Bismark is less frequently met here. to get a passing glimpse of “Old Wil. Although a popular idol, to the people liam” must take his position at the he is not very accessible. The young Brandenburger gate, at ten minutes after view him at a reverent distance. He is one o'clock. You can tell his coach a man with a kind heart, but withal one from afar, by the peculiar uniform of of an iron and unconquerable naturc. the coachmen and servant. Since 1870, He rarely rides, and then in a faded the people of Berlin stand along the coach, with common horses to suit it. side of the street when he passes, facing He prefers going out afoot-always athim, with their hats off. A very touch-tended by a ferocious-looking bulling scene it is, when thousands of peo- dog. His tall erect form towers above ple, reverently and with uncovered the crowd, his face somewhat furrowed, heads, pause in their walks of business and sterd. Heedless of all around him, and pleasure, to greet their beloved Em-he strides on his way through the throng, peror.

all eyes following him, and seemingly He usually rides out alone, except seeing no one, save those who greet him, when he takes his daughter, the Grand to whom he gracefully responds. Duchess of Baden, with him. He al- Von Moltke, his distinguished assoways rides past the column of Victory ciate, is in many respects his opposite. in this street, and always ends his ride with a mild, amiable countenance, at 2 P. M.

flaxen hair, slightly gray, a tall, slender, Among this great multitude you can graceful form, every motion of which always see some of Germany's celebri- expresses an unstudied natural elastities. Yonder, in front of the royal city and elegance, his eyes rest on the palace, rides an aged man, in an open ground, as he seems to step thoughtfully carriage. It is Wrangel, a renowned and with studied caution, often closely military leader, still vigorous in his old along the houses, as though fearful of age. A man of ninety years; a rough, getting too near the curb-stones. Witbal straight-forward soldier, with many he notices with a cordial salute the kindly traits. His venerable form is greeting of the passing admirer. Bisfamiliar to every promenader, and the mark and Moltke, after William, and children seem to know him best. Some Unser Fritz, are the centres of attraction singular freaks he commits, whether as in the passing throng. the result of doting old age or eccen- The latter is immensely popular. Oftricity of character I know not. When ten he has his wife with him, a lady he meets a pretty lady, he will kiss his with a plain matronly exterior, and his hand to her. The rollicking boys often two oldest sons. The appearance of this greatly annoy him. Sometimes they group, in their fine equipage, is always hang to the rear of his coach. He likes the signal for the most enthusiastic greetto have them follow him. When they ing. Whilst his father is treated with carry their attentions too far, he will reverence, Fritz receives the hearty poraise himself from his seat, snatch the pular homage, more like a very great /whip from the driver's hand, and lustily but very good and dear friend. Their lay it on the backs of the boys. My ride through this street is a constant guide says: “On a pleasant spring day ordeal of bowing, from side to side, of I rode out to Charlottenburg, (one of the cap-lifting and laborious salutations. suburbs of Berlin), on the top of a great Fritz greets with the military salute, omnibus. Right ahead of me I saw old his wife with a nod of the head, and the Wrangel, on a white horse, surrounded royal boys incessantly lift their caps by a crowd of boisterous children, cla- until they reach a more quiet street. moring to kiss his hand. Long and pa- This Crown Prince and his wife seek tiently he held out his hand, which they to train and treat their children as good kissed with great glee. As he was about Christian parents ought to do. Their passing on, a little girl came running offspring happen to be people of like from across the street, calling to him : passions with those of ordinary mortals. 'Me, too, papa Wrangel, me, too!' With It is with Emperors somewhat as with

pastors; if they know not how to rule officers of the army. With a sword their own house, how shall they rule a dangling at their sides, they proudly great empire? Fritz seems to know this, step through the crowd with an air of as the following incident shows, told by lofty superiority. For usually these a certain lady who lived in the family. military promenaders belong to the less

One day he heard one of the boys worthy men of their station, who are screaming in an adjoining chamber. greater on a parade than in battle. He proceeded to the place of trouble, Their toilet and trappings are arranged and learned from the chamber-maid that with faultless precision, and in their one of the little princes stubbornly re- path they scatter the odor of rare perfused to have himself washed. To the fumery, and stalk about among the surprise of the servant the father told civilians of Berlin with an air of great her to let it pass without punishing him. consequence. In the afternoon the young princes were In Prussia public opinion ranks the taken out riding, this time without the position of a military officer very high; presence of their parents. The guards higher than the legal, medical or clerithroughout the city always salute the cal profession. Berlin builds monulittle princes the same as they do their ments to her military heroes, more than parents - that is, present arms, and per- to her great men of science and of form their customary polite ceremonies. State. Although, unless an officer of To their great surprise this afternoon high rank, he has but a meagre salary, none of the guards saluted them. The he is a favorite in society, and his boyish pride of the little princes was company is courted by people of rank. deeply wounded. They could scarcely To fair ladies of fortune, members wait till they reached home, so eager of “the best families,” the straps and were they to tell their papa how the feathers of a soldier have a wonderful naughty guards had insulted them. charm. As you watch the plumes After listening kindly to their complaint waying above this sea of heads on Fritz cooly replied: '“A prince who re “Unter den Linden,” you have an infuses to have himself washed, willing to dex of the strength and the weakvess ride out unwashed, cannot be saluted !” of a great Empire. The bayonets and This reproof was better than a flogging, | prowess of her soldiers shield her against and had its desired effect. It must, her foes, and secure her rights, whilst however, have put the father to con these hundreds of thousands of warriors siderable trouble to send such orders to produce nothing and consume all. Reall the guards along their route, at so specting the true wealth of a nation short a notice; and great must have been they are like an army of grasshoppers, the surprise of the latter to receive such reaping where they have not sown, and an unusual message.

gathering where they have not strewed. Not all the members of the royal Every day at 12 M., a fine military family are as great popular favorites as band plays towards the lower end of this coming Emperor of Germany. Of the street, near the royal palace. Often ten can you meet a tall old gentleman would I throw aside books and papers and his son walking along this fashiona- at noon, and hasten to this open air ble street of Berlin. No one greets them. concert, free to all the people. Most Both are haughty, reserved and of a enchanting music did they discourse, coarse unprincely exterior. The elder and a choice. yet, vast audience did is Prince Charles, a brother of old they attract. Men, hoary with age and William, the younger is his son. They decked with the glittering marks of are said to be brave, fearless military honor, the servants and the votaries of leaders, but overbearing and repulsive science, the sage and the youthful stuto their inferiors. Despite their valua- dent, paused in their walk to catch the ble military services to the nation, their pleasing music. The first notes brought appearance on the street excites no nurses and servants with the little chilpopular enthusiasm. But few greetdren in their charge, hurriedly to the them, and always coldly.

spot, all enjoying the concert with bated Among the great mass of people breath. thronging this street you always find a These nurses form a peculiar feature large proportion of gaily uniformed of Berlin life in Unter din Linden. The most of them are women from the rag-screen, day after day I must thatch country, retaining their simple pictu- myself anew; day after day this despiresque village costume; a short red cable thatch must lose some film of its petticoat, a snow-white apron, a blue thickness." bodice, and a white or colored sort of Among this street life the horse and turban for a bonnet. The most of them his driver are prominently represented. still look unspoiled by corrupt city life, Like the humanity of Berlin, its and unspotted as when they left their horse-life appears in two classes. The country homes. With patient leisure nobler horse serving royalty and people they here seek to amuse and interest the of rank, gayly dancing along the street little citizens of the world, as they carry in gold-mounted harness, sleek and them on their arms, or push them about nimble-footed, with arched neck and in little coaches. Their costume, con- flowing mane, proudly champing his duct and looks indicate that they feel | bit, gently held by à liveried driver strange and ill-at-home amid such sur- more proud than he. roundings.

| Very different from him is the ordiAs in all large cities, Berlin abounds nary cab horse of Berlin, than which with corner-loafers, poor people, and you cannot find anywhere a more dissome not very poor, who have, or wish tressed and forlorn-looking member of to have, nothing to do. Against posts his kind. Poor in flesh and vitality, and corner-houses they lazily lean. his ribs you can count, and see if one is Here and there one of their number broken or missing, his legs stiff-jointed, accosts you in a strange brogue and his bones lifting the skin to angular manner: “Alte Kleeder zu ver Koofeu” elevations, so lifeless and sleepy does he -(have you any old clothes for sale)? look, that your sympathy is touched by Thus both Jew and Gentile are eager the sight of him. Ever and anon he to convert the thread-bare cast-off goods changes his legs, as he stands aside of of their fellow-men into merchandize the curb-stones, seeking to relieve his and money. Just here in Berlin, the fatigue or pain by standing on three, scientific centre of Europe, where old and resting the fourth. Meanwhile his systems of thought have either been driver sulkily sits in his narrow place, cast aside like worn-out old clothes, or a coarse fur cap, with the number of his renewed and brushed into better and cab on it, covers his bushy unkempt more beauteous shape—just here, among head, a beard as bushy half covers his red this crowd representing the social and face, wrapped in a heavy coarse cloak, scientific life of the world, these buyers from under which his heavy wooden of cast-off garments, amid the flumme- shoes partly peep out-such is the Berries and fustian of the addle-brained lin cabman. "A clumsy, ungainly man, officers, remind one of Carlyle's Sartor who never lifts his cap for anybody, but Resartus, in which he learnedly dis- honest and independent, unlike the cusses The World in Clothes, Old American cabman, he never clamors Clothes, etc. And many a good, but at for a job, never even asks you to hire present prevailing error and folly is his cab. If you wish to have his sertherein contained. Two classes of beings vices you will have to ask for them, for are in the world, Tailors and the Tai- he will certainly not ask permission to lored. “Strip the noblest horse of serve you. He is prompt to resent a girths, flaps, and extraneous tags fas- wrong and to claim his rights. Last tened around him, and he becomes his fall the Government increased the tariff own sempster, weaver and spinner: nay, on the cabmen's business. At once they his own bootmaker, jeweler and man-coinbined on a strike. And great was milliner; he bounds free through the val- the trouble, for people had either to go leys with a perennial rain-proof court afoot or ride in dog-coaches. suit on his body; wherein warmth and In Berlin large draught dogs are in easiness of fit have reached perfection. common use, mostly in smaller truckWhile I have thatched myself over with wagons, where the owner guides the the dead fleeces of sheep, the bark of wagon by keeping his hand on the vegetables, the entrails of worms, the tongue, which usually is at the seat end, hides of oxen or seals, the felt of furred while the dogs pull it through the street. beasts; and walk abroad a moving And when the cabmen strike, many

people ride in smaller coaches propelled worker. No wonder “the devil hates
by dogs. And it is surprising what a music,” foritentices from his ranks many
heavy load a team of dogs can pull. As a follower. Philip Phillips has accom-
soon as the team stops they lie down and plished good in many cases that are
rest, at the same time watching the known. While singing in London, his
wagon. Woe to the man who touches song “I will sing for Jesus” caught the
it in the absence of the owner. This ear of a poor despairing man on his
use of the dog gives him a high value way to the docks to drown himself.
in some European cities. The raising It reminded him of boyhood days and
and training of draught dogs is a special his mother's prayers, and brought him
business. Indeed Berlin has a “so-called to the Saviour.
dog park, where dogs are washed, “ And you to whom the secrets
sheared, and taken to board.”

Of all sweet sounds are known,
Rise up! for He hath called you

To a mission of your own,
The Voice of Song.

And rightly to fulfil it

His grace can make you strong,

Who to your charge hath given

The Ministry of Song." " Whence is the might of thy master-spell ? The preached word finds in the voice Speak to me, voice of sweet sounds, and tell. of song an active and devoted helpHow canst thou wake by one gentle breath

mate. There is not an emotion of the Passionate visions of love and death ?

Christian heart that does not find exHow call'st thou back with a note, a sigh,

pression in the hymns of God's house ; Words and low tones from the days gone by

and many of them have fallen with unA sunny glance or a fond farewell ? Speak to me, voice of sweet sounds, and tell ! |

wonted sweetness from dying lips.

There is a comfort in the thought that What is thy power from the soul's deep spring In sudden gushes the tears to bring ?

the saints while below must have borne E'en mid the swells of the festal glee

the same burdens we carry to the mercyFountains of sorrow are stirred by thee. seat, or many of our most precious Something of mystery there surely dwells hymns had never been written. Let us Waiting thy touch in our bosom-cells;

always remember in this important and Something that finds not its answer here, delightful feature of worship, that we A chain to be clasped in another sphere. are singing to God and not to each Yet speak to me still though thy tones be fraught other ; our language should be adWith vain remembrance and troubled thought. dressed to Him our praise be of Him Speak! for thou tell'st my soul that its birth Links it with regions more bright than earth !"

Poetical talent of the highest order in

all ages may well be employed in per: The power of music! who has not fecting the praise of Eternal Love. felt it? Volumes might be written on He who has in all times endowed some its conquests and many hours consumed with such exalted talents cannot be disin telling how it has soothed savage pleased when His own gift is devoted to breasts, that never before heaved with His service; and He is surely properly gentle emotions. It steals into ears that worshiped in the use of its offspring as well have long been closed to heavenly as in the use of the Psalms of David, voices. Some have employed this great since He has never commanded us to use heart-opener most successfully among only the language of inspiration. the outcast and degraded in large cities. Neither is any degree of musical Tears have been seen dropping from the knowledge too high to be employed in eyes of debauched men and abandoned this noble work; but according as God women at the sound of some simple has dealt to every congregation and hymn.

each individual, not only a voice, but God has made many a one to lift up the means of voice-culture, should His the voice of song for Him who could praise ascend. Therefore, dear people. not be a watchman on the towers of Zion, do all sing. If church choirs looked and He has made it reach dark corners upon the voice of song as a holy minand dull ears that were barred against istry there would be love and harmony the preached word. It knows how to in the gallery. A quarrel is always find a hidden chord in every soul, and dreadful, but a quarrel in the choir how is therefore a most efficient gospel out of place and wicked !

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