Technical Report, Issue 1U.S. Government Printing Office, 1941 - Beach erosion Includes various editions of some numbers. |
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1.0 WAVE PROFILES 15 VELOCITY agreement average Beach Erosion Board Chatley CHIEF OF ENGINEERS column comparison of measured deep-water waves DEPTH IN FEET diameter direction of wave ellipses existence of mass FEET PER SECOND formula ft./sec Gerstner Gerstner's theory graphically in Figure half the wave indicated infinite depth irrotational wave laboratory Laplace-Airy Larras Levi-Civita magnitude mass transport Math mathematical analysis measured and theoretical measured values measured velocity Measured wave Mitchim mouvement neon bulb observations ondes Paris particle orbits percentage of wave Physical Papers Point Depth point gage presented graphically propagation RADII IN FEET RADII-DEEP-WATER ratio rigorous solution semi-axis shallow water shallow-water waves specific gravity stable form Stokes Stokes-Struik theory TABLE theoretical velocity trochoidal velocity and wave VELOCITY IN FEET Vertical Sea Walls water particles WATER WAVES wave characteristics wave crest wave height wave length wave motion wave tank wave theory wave travel wave velocity WAVES IN WATER waves studied عان
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Page 37 - Newton's principle concerning the propagation of sound, and the movement of waves. (Sur la maniere de rectifier deux endroits des principes de Newton, re'latifs a la propagation du son, et au mouvement des ondes.) Nouv.
Page 38 - ... stationary wave. (Uber die Transportgeschwindigkeit einer stationaren Wellenbewegung.) Vortrage aus dem Gebiete der Hydro- und Aerodynamik, Berlin 1924. Rigorous determination of permanent waves of finite amplitude. (Determination rigoureuse des ondes permanentes d'ampleur finie.) Math. Ann. XCIII. 1925. Meyer, Richard Davis — A Model Study of Wave Action on Beaches. Sand Movement and Beach Erosion. Univ. of Cal. Thesis, 1933. Meyer-Peter, E. — Amsler chronographs used in the hydraulic researches...
Page 36 - Theoretical and experimental researches on the oscillations of water, etc. (Recherches ' theoriques et experimentales sur les oscillations de 1'eau et les machines hydrauliques a collonnes liquides oscillantes.) Versailles, 1883.
Page 30 - Stokes defines the deep-water wave as one for which "the depth of the fluid is very great compared with the length of a wave", when we may without sensible error suppose the depth to be infinite.
Page 36 - ... found an average difference of 8.2 percent between laboratory wave and theory. Mass transport. — Mitchim in his 1939 study found a qualitative verification of the theory of mass transport for 142 observations in the University of California laboratory wave tank. APPENDIX II BIBLIOGRAPHY Abercromby, Ralph — Observation on the Height, Length, and Velocity of Ocean . Waves, Philosophical Mag. XXV, 1888. Aime