of his terrific martyrdom, which is there portrayed in a fresco. Let them see his traditional chains and the supposed gridiron of his suffering at S. Lorenzo in Lucina. And, lastly, at the great basilica of S. Lorenzo fuori le Mura, let them admire the mighty church which for twelve hundred years has marked the site of that little chapel which Constantine built near the lowly catacomb grave in which the martyr was laid by his deacon Hippolytus.

Let us turn to a very different character-Rienzi. How vivid will his story seem to those who go first to the old tower of the Crescenzi, near the Bocca della Verità, which belonged to his ancestors, and then to the street behind S. Tommaso, where he was born-the son of a publican and a washerwoman, for to such humble offices were the Crescenzi then reduced. They will find Rienzi again at the little Church of S. Angelo in Pescheria, whither he summoned the citizens at midnight to hold a meeting for the re-establishment of the Good Estate, and in which he kept the Vigil of the Holy Ghost; and at the Portico of Octavia, on whose ancient walls he painted his famous allegory of the sufferings of the Romans under the oppression of the great patrician families, thus flaunting defiance in the eyes of the Savelli, who could look down upon the picture from the windows of their palace above the Theatre of Marcellus. At S. Giorgio in Velabro the pediment still remains under the old terra-cotta cornice, where an inscription proclaimed that the reign of the Good Estate was begun. We must follow Rienzi thence, bare-headed, but in full armour, to the Capitol and to the Lateran, where he took his mystic bath in the great vase of green basalt in which Constantine is falsely said to have been baptized. We must think of his flight, after his short-lived glories were over, by the light of the burning palace, down the steps of the Capitol, and of his wife looking out of the window to witness his murder at the foot of the great basaltic lioness, which looks scarcely older now than on the night on which she was sprinkled with his blood. Lastly, we may remember that his body was hung, a target for the stones of those by whom he had been so lately adored, in the little piazza of S. Marcello in Corso, and that, in strange contradiction, it was eventually burnt by the Jews in the then desolate mausoleum of Augustus.

It is by thus entwining the Roman sights with one another, till they become the continuous links of a story, that they are best fixed in the mind. They should also be read about, not merely in histories or guide-books, but in the works of those who, from long residence in Italy and the deep love which they bear to it, have become impressed with the true Italian spirit. The most important books on Roman subjects are the 'Ancient Rome,' and still more the 'Pagan and Christian Rome,' of Rudolfo Lanciani. Then, much delightful reading may be found in the many works of Gregorovius, from his history of the City of Rome' to his enchanting 'Lateinische Sommer,' and his graphic little sketches à propos of burialplaces of the Popes. The writer has often been laughed at for recommending and quoting novels in speaking of Rome and its interests. Yet in few graver works are there such glimpses of

Rome, of Roman scenery, Roman character, Roman manners, to be obtained, as in Hawthorne's 'Marble Faun,' which English publishers so foolishly call Transformation;' in 'Mademoiselle Mori; in the Improvisatore' of Hans Christian Andersen; in the Daniella' of George Sand and the pagan-spirited 'Ariadne' of Ouida. Still, most of all should English and American visitors consult the works of the great living archæologist Lanciani especially, perhaps, the more portable volume on The Ruins and Excavations of Ancient Rome,' than which nothing has been written equally interesting and instructive.

So much has been written about Rome that, in quoting from the remarks of others in these volumes, selection has always been the great difficulty, and the rule has been followed that the most learned books are not always the most instructive or the most interesting. It has been sought to gather up and present to the reader such a succession of word-pictures from various authors as may not only make the scenes of Rome more interesting at the time, but may deepen their impression afterwards; but no endeavour has been made to enter into deep archæological questions, to define the exact limits of the wall of Servius Tullius, or to hazard a fresh opinion as to how the earth accumulated in the Roman Forum, or whence the pottery came out of which the Monte Testaccio has arisen. The best Roman archæology is that which is unlimited as to ages, which is allowed to grasp as much as it can of the myriad human sympathies which Rome has to offer or awaken; for thus, and only thus, can it do a great work, in arousing highest thoughts and aims as it opens the ancient treasure-house, and teaches the vast experience of more than two thousand years. Then, as John Addington Symonds describes

'Then, from the very soil of silent Rome,
You shall grow wise, and, walking, live again
The lives of buried peoples, and become
A child by right of that eternal home,
Cradle and grave of empires, on whose walls
The sun himself subdued to reverence falls.'

'Rome,' as Winckelmann says, 'is the high school which is open to all the world.' It can supply every mental requirement if men will only apply at the right corner of the fountain. 'Certainly,' said Goethe, people out of Rome have no idea how one is schooled there. One has to be born again, so to speak, and one learns to look back upon one's old ideas as upon the shoes of childhood.' Still, the travellers who enjoy Rome most are those who have studied it thoroughly before leaving their own homes. In the multiplicity of engagements in which a foreigner is soon involved, there is little time for historical research, and few are able to do more than read up their guide-books, so that half the pleasure and all the advantage of a visit to Rome are thrown away; while those who arrive with the foundation already prepared, easily and naturally acquire, amid the scenes around which the history of the world

revolved, an amount of information which will be astonishing even to themselves.

The pagan monuments of Rome have been written of and discussed ever since they were built, and the catacombs have lately found historians and guides both able and willing; about the later Christian monuments far less has hitherto been said. There is a natural shrinking in the English Protestant mind from all that is connected with the story of the saints, especially the later saints of the Roman Catholic Church. Many believe, with Addison, that 'the Christian antiquities are so embroiled in fable and legend, that one derives but little satisfaction from searching into them.' And yet, as Mrs. Jameson observes, when all that the controversialist can desire is taken away from the reminiscences of those who, to the Roman Catholic mind, have consecrated the homes of their earthly life, how much remains !-'so much to awaken, to elevate, to touch the heart; so much that will not fade from the memory; so much that may make a part of our after-life.'

If we would profit by Rome to the uttermost, we must put away all prejudices, whether Roman Catholic or Protestant, and we must believe that it is not in one class of Roman interests alone that much is to be learnt. Those who devote themselves exclusively to the relics of the kings and the republic, to the walls, or the vexed questions concerning the Porta Capena, and who see no interest in the reminiscences of the Middle Ages and the Popes, take only half of the blessing of Rome, and the half which has the least of human sympathy in it. Archæology and history should help the beauties of Rome to leave their noblest impress, in arousing feelings worthy of the greatest of pagan heroes, of the noblest of Latin poets, of the most inspired of sculptors and painters, as well as of Paul of Tarsus, who passed into Rome under the Arch of Drusus, upon whom the shadow of the tomb of Caius Cestius fell as he passed out of Rome to his martyrdom in that procession of which it is the sole surviving witness, and who, in Rome, is sleeping now, with a thousand other saints, till, as S. Ambrose reminds us, he shall awaken there at the Great Resurrection.

CHAPTER I

DULL-USEFUL INFORMATION

The Population of Rome in 1897 was 489,965.

Hotels. For passing travellers or bachelors, the best are: Hotel d'Angleterre, Bocca di Leone; and Hotel de Rome, Corso. The Hotel de Russie (close to the Piazza del Popolo) is very comfortable and well managed. Hotel de Londres, Piazza di Spagna, is suited for a long residence, and is very central. The Hotel Europa is also in the Piazza di Spagna. The Hotel Quirinale, in the Via Nazionale, near the railway station, is the largest hotel in Rome. Facing the station is the large new Hotel Continentale. The luxurious, expensive, and fashionable Grand Hotel is in the Piazza dei Termine. Hotel Hassler, Trinità de' Monti, is in a beautiful situation, but the rooms at the back are to be avoided. The Hotel Royal is in the modern Via Venti Settembre. The well-managed but expensive Hotel Bristol is in the Piazza Barberini. The Hotel Eden, Via Porta Pinciana, is well situated between the old and new town streets. The Hotel d'Italie, Via Quattro Fontane, and the Hotel Vittoria, Via Due Macelli, are very comfortable and reasonable, and the former is especially well managed and suited for a long stay. The Hotel Molaro is at the corner of the Via Gregoriana. The Hotel Marini is in the noisy Via Tritone. The Hotel d'Allemagne, Via Condotti, and the Anglo-Americano, Via Frattina, are much frequented by Americans. The Hotel Minerva, Piazza della Minerva, near the Pantheon, is more of a commercial inn, but good and reasonable, and suited to those who merely come to Rome to study art or antiquities. The Hotel Nazionale in the Piazza Monte Citorio is a good inn; here also is the Hotel Milano.

Pensions are much wanted in Rome. The best are those of Miss Smith, 47 Corso; Mrs. Chapman, 76 Via S. Niccolò da Tolentino; Madame Lomi (English), 36 Via Tritone Nuovo; Pension Hayden, 42 Piazza Poli; Pension Gianelli, 15 Via Ludovisi; Madame Tellembach, 73 Due Macelli; Madame François, 47 Corso; Madame Michel, 72 Via Sistina; Pension du Sud, Via Lombarda; Bethell, 41 Via Babuino.

Apartments have lately greatly increased in price. An apartment for a very small family in one of the best situations can seldom be obtained for less than from 300 to 500 francs a month. The English almost all prefer to reside in the neighbourhood of the Piazza di Spagna. The best situations are the sunny side of the Piazza itself, the Trinità de' Monti, the Via Gregoriana, and Via Sistina. Less good situations are the Corso, Via Condotti, Via Due Macelli, Via Frattina, Capo le Case, Via Felice, Via Quattro Fontane, Via Babuino, and Via della Croce -in which last, however, are many very good apartments. In the last few years many apartments have been prepared for letting in the Via Nazionale and other new streets, but the situation is most undesirable, except for the families of artists whose studios are in that direction. On the other side of the Corso suites of rooms are much less expensive, but they are not convenient for persons who make a short residence in Rome. In many of the palaces are large apartments which are let by the year. In the new town, houses are universally ill-built, illdrained, and ill-ventilated.

Carriages.-1 horse, the course, 80 c.; the hour, 2 frs.; at night, 1 to 2. Coupé, 1 to 2.30; at night, 1.30 to 2.30; with 2 horses, 2 to 3; at night, 2.50 to 3.50. Bicycles may be hired at 112 and 488 Corso; 114 Via Quattro Fontane; and 260 Corso Vittorio Emanuele.

VOL. I.

17

B

Restaurants.-Corradetti, 81 Via della Croce. Inferior, but much frequented by Italians and by artists, Berardi, 75 Via della Croce; Fagiano, Piazza Colonna ; Bordone, Via Nazionale; Ranieri, 26 Via Mario de' Fiori, Nazionale, 109 Via del Seminario, near the Pantheon.

Caffes.-Caffè di Roma, 426 Corso; Caffè Nazionale, 179 Corso; Caffè d'Italia, 133 Corso; Caffè Greco, 86 Via Condotti.1

Tea-Rooms.-22 Piazza di Spagna.

Trattorie send out dinners to families in apartments in a tin box with a stove, for which the bearer calls the next morning. A dinner for six francs ought to be sufficient for three persons, and to leave enough for luncheon the next day.

English Church, All Saints, in the Via Babuino, on the left. Services at 8.30 A.M., 11 A.M., and 3 P.M. on Sundays; daily service twice on week-days. American Church of S. Paul, Via Nazionale, services, 8.30, 10.45, and 4. Trinity Church, Piazza S. Silvestro. Presbyterian Church, 7 Via Venti Settembre. Vaudois Church, 106 Via Nazionale, opposite the Theatre. English Catholic Church, Piazza S. Silvestro. English Convent, 16 Via S. Sebastiano.

English Archæological Society.-16 Via dei Barberi.

Winter Meetings of Arcadia.--Convent of S. Carlo in Corso.

Omnibuses start from

Piazza di Spagna to
Piazza del Popolo to

Piazza S. Silvestro to

Piazza Rienzi to
Piazza Navona to
Piazza Venezia to

Piazza Montanara to

Piazza Cancellaria to

S. Pantaleo to

S. Apollinare to

Forum of Trajan to

Via Quirinale to

Piazza del Popolo, by the Ripetta.

Piazza Cavour, Prati di Castello.

Railway Station, by Via Nazionale (tramway).
Via Cavour, S. J. Lateran (tramway).
S. Paolo fuori le Mura (tramway).

Via Porta S. Lorenzo, by the Pantheon.

Porta Pia, by Piazza Colonna and Via Tritone.
Piazza Vittorio Emanuele, by the Forum of Trajan.
Piazza S. Pantaleo, Coliseum, S. J. Lateran.
Porta Salaria, by the Fountain of Trevi.

S. Giovanni Laterano, by the Forum of Trajan and
the Coliseum.

Piazza Termini, Cemetery of S. Lorenzo.

Piazza Guglielmo Pepe, by the Gesù, Forum of
Trajan, and the Monti.

Piazza dei Quiriti ai Prati, by the Via Botteghe
Oscure, Ponte S. Angelo, and Porta Angelica.
S. Agnese fuori le Mura.

Piazza del Cinquecento to Cemetery of S. Lorenzo (tramway).
The Steam Tramway to Tivoli starts from—

Porta S. Lorenzo, 1st-class return, 6 fr.

2nd-class return, 4.50 fr.

Theatres.-Nazionale, Via Nazionale; Argentina (opera), Via Torre Argentina; Costanzi, Via Firenze; Valle (comedy), Via della Valle; Metastasio, Via Pallacorda; Manzoni, Via Urbana; Quirino, Via delle Vergine; Rossini (marionettes), Via di S. Chiara; Correa, in the Mausoleum of Augustus, Via dei Pontifici.

1 "The Caffè Greco, founded in the day of Salvator Rosa, has become a German pastry-cookery, and the place where once all the artists of Rome used to meet, along with poets and the minor brood of the Muses, is no longer to be recognised by the relic-hunter."-W. J. Stillman.