78th Highlanders who fell in the Crimea. There are some curious old buildings here. A cannon ball still sticks in the side of a house which originally belonged to the Marquis of Huntly. This suggestive memorial of the past no doubt found its present resting-place during that stormy time when the Castle was held for the King by General Grant, while the town and Holyrood were in possession of Prince Charles.

From Castle Hill you get a fine view of the Grass Market, the site of public executions in the old days. Captain John Porteous was hanged here to a dyer's pole. His crime was that of intercepting an attempt at rescue during the execution of a smuggler.

upon the mob without warning.

He fired

He was

pardoned by the king, but the people seized the officer and hanged him. The incident is graphically narrated in the "Heart of Mid

lothian." There is still a cross on the pavement where the gallows stood.

A topographical or historic notice of the district is quite outside the pale of this paper; but there are a few incidents of general interest which I venture to print in this place, some of which Sandy told us, some of which we marked in our "Murray's Guide." Formerly butter and provisions were weighed before they were allowed to come into the city. The weigh-house was at the top of West Bow, but in 1822 it was removed to make room for the public entry of George IV. Lord Ruthven lived in the West Bow. The street was the head-quarters of the Covenanter party, and at the same time was occupied chiefly by smiths and pewterers. It was from this association that the Covenanters got the name of the Bowhead saints. In James Court was the house of David Hume, and afterwards that

of James Boswell, who entertained Johnson there in 1773. The house was burnt down in 1859. In the Covenanter's Close was situated a tavern much frequented by lawyers in the days of Sir Walter Scott. It was here that the Solemn League and Covenant was placed for signature in 1640.

Finding my companion, Sir John, suddenly raising his hat in the street, and seeing no response from the window to which his eyes were directed, I found that he was doing homage to a quaint old gabled house, projecting into a narrow street. It was John Knox's house, upon which is inscribed, "Lofe God abofe al things, and yi neighbours as yiself." At the corner there is a figure of the reformer preaching to the people. Knox narrowly escaped assassination in this house from a shot fired at him through the window. He died here in 1572. The respect which the Scotch show for their great men is in striking

contrast to the disregard of the English for

houses and places which should be sacred to the memories of men who have made themselves and their country famous throughout the world. The poet Gay lived in Edwin Street, during the latter part of his life, in the capacity of secretary to the Duchess of Queensbury. He resided at Queensbury House, which was then a beautiful building. It was dismantled in 1801, and is now used as a house of refuge.

At Holyrood we found a guide as clever and intelligent as our cabman. We had not stood within the shadow of the abbey many minutes before the discreet and appreciative Scot in charge asked if he had not the honour of speaking to Falstaff.

"You have," said Mark Lemon, bowing to the guide, and addressing him in his blandest

manner.

No fat man ("a gross fat man,

fat as

butter," Mark Lemon has written himself down in sundry albums) ever carried himself more gracefully than my companion. The wave of his hand in a friendly adieu was quite regal. His manner was charmingly sympathetic, and more especially with young people. Children and dogs were always his friends. It was indeed a characteristic of the old Punch men, their love of children, and the youthful fashion of their amusements. Leapfrog and rounders were popular games with Jerrold and Dickens.

66

I am proud and delighted to see you, Sir," said the keeper of the abbey, “you have afforded me many an hour's pleasure through your famous publication. If you will allow me, Sir, to present you with a photograph of the abbey, my happiness will be increased.”

"Your words gratify me much," said Mark Lemon; "permit me to offer you a card in return."