Fig. 217.

advance sufficiently to drive out the click 30, and ratchet 31, which wheel will now overtake the smaller ratchet, and as they are always held together by a spring behind the pins 32, will immediately enter the holes in the ratchet wheels 34, and thus vibrate the rod 39, which slides the horizontal bar 40, before the lever 41, (Fig. 212) and thus throw the strap from off the driving pulley. The horizontal sliding bar 40, now returns by means of the side motion of the setting off lever 41, and thus releases the pins from the holes. In the two small ratchet wheels there is a catch-piece 42, upon the rod 39; this catch-piece, as it returns, pushes the click lever 43, and click 44, onwards, and just advances the smaller ratchet wheel one tooth, in order to set the holes free of the pins, and thus be ready to start the loom again.

Fig. 216, represents a detatched and enlarged view of one of the tappet plates, with its tappets or bowls, moveable in the concentric mortices; and Fig. 217, represents a modification of the mode of lifting the shuttle boxes, and is here shown as capable of lifting and sustaining five boxes.

The apparatus used for working the Jacquard machinery, shown in Figs 212, 213 and 214, answers the purpose extremely well on this kind of loom. That part of the bar or rod 20, which passes through the warp, should be made flat and with round edges, and well polished, so as to prevent strain or friction on the threads

during the operation of weaving. To prevent confusion, we have not represented in these drawings the jacks or coupers which support the headles c, c; but any practical weaver of figured goods, as a matter of course, understands that part of a loom.

The reader will not fail to perceive, in Fig. 212, a beautiful representation of an embalming scene, as practised by the ancient Egyptians. This operation was performed on those men who had distinguished themselves by their achievements in their country's cause; and, as a further token of respect, sometimes their brains were picked out (as in the present instance) and carefully preserved at the expense of the Government. For the drawing of this remarkable scene, we are indebted to our old friend, Alexis Kersivenus, who informs us, that the dead gentleman, on whose cranium the physicians are at work, was the first person, in Egypt, who succeeded in weaving a correct representation of the twelve signs of the zodiac.

Erastus B. Bigelow, Esq. of Lowell, Mass., obtained a patent, 30th May, 1842, "for certain improvements in the manner of mounting the harness, and working the same, in the loom for weaving figured fabrics, such as are commonly known under the names of imperial or French quilts, and imperial petticoat robes."

The specification of this patent is of enormous length, full of useless repetition, and the figures which accompany it, cover three large sheets of drawing paper. For this specification and drawings if we recollect rightly, we paid the Commissioner of patents (H. L. Ellsworth) at Washington, the sum of $17.50.* The patentee, in summing up his claims, says:

"Having thus fully described the nature of my improvements, in the loom for weaving counterpanes, and other figured articles, and having also, set forth several different modifications thereof, and particularly in the manner of forming and arranging the cams, on the cam shafts, by which the required motion is given to the respective treadles, so as to correspond in their action with the arrangements made in the other parts of the loom, it is to be understood that I do not claim, nor do I intend to limit myself to the particular arrangement of the cams and treadles, these not constituting a distinguishing or an ESSENTIAL feature of my im

* We did not receive the specification and drawings of this loom in time to insert them in the proper part of this Work; but we expect to have another opportunity soon of laying them before the public.

provements; these consisting mainly, in the mounting of the loom and of tying up the harness, so as to admit of the employment of one, or more, moveable harness-boards, and of one, or more, leaves of headles, and of the Jacquard Machine in the power loom. By this arrangement I am enabled to produce a free and open shed of the warp, and to allow one part, or shed, thereof to descend whilst the other is rising. What I claim, therefore, as constituting my inventions, and which I desire to secure by Letters Patent, is the within described manners or modes of mounting the loom, and tying up the harness, and of working the same, in which, under its various modifications, I combine a moveable harness-board, or boards, with one, or more, leaves of headles, or harness, and with the Jacquard Machine in the power loom, (see Figs. 212 to 217;) such arrangement and combination being substantially the same with that herein described."

The loom represented at Figs. 212 to 217 was patented three years prior to Mr. Bigelow's loom; and the invention of it took place nearly five years before the date of the patent.

The Jacquard machine used by Mr. Bigelow is of the old construction, having trap-boards and knot-cords; and the patentee says in his specification, "One of the trap-boards is allowed to descend whilst the other rises, without disturbing the action of the knot-cords, and I thereby counteract the unequal action of the harness weights upon the cams by which they are raised."

This action of the trap-boards is the invention of James Cross, of Paisley, Scotland; and which he first brought into notice about the year 1818; it is known by the name of "Cross's counterpoise harness;" the principle of which is, that one trap-board rises while the other is sinking. Mr. Cross's loom is described at page 161, and represented at Figs. 171 to 179; and by examining it attentively, the reader will perceive that the counterpoise trap-boards, on which Mr. Bigelow lays the greatest stress, (in his specification) are there shown to perfection. The raising and lowering of the harness-boards below, so as to govern the shedding of the warps, corresponding to the action of the trap-boards above, is entirely dependent on the principle of Mr. Cross's machine. The practical weaver of figured textures, will at once perceive the nature of these claims of Mr. Bigelow. (see page 479.)

The patentee describes, at great length, various forms of cams, which are also represented in his drawings; and by means of these cams, he tells us, the necessary motions are communicated to the headles, as well as to the Jacquard. Twenty different figures of

these cams are given, illustrative of their various forms and the positions which we are told they assume during the operation of the loom. The can-wheel for working the Jacquard corresponds in every respect to that marked D' D', in Tompkins and Gilroy's loom, Fig. 205; the cams for working the headles, &c. are also the

same.

It will be observed that Mr. Bigelow, in summing up his claims, says, in reference to all these, that they do not constitute "a distinguishing or an essential feature" of his improvements, but remarks, that these consist "mainly in the mounting of the loom, and of tying up the harness, so as to admit of the employinent of one, or more, moveable harness-boards, and of one, or more, leaves of headles, and of the Jacquard machine in the power loom." (See Gilroy's loom mountings or tie-ups, Examples Nos. 1 to 10.)

It appears somewhat strange to us, that this gentleman should fill three-fourths of his specification in describing these wheels and cams, and give so many different figures of them in his drawings; and after all this state, that they are not "essential" to the working of his loom. Now the truth is, without these, the loom would not be worth a stiver, because it could not produce the stuffs referred to in the specification at all, as any one may perceive by looking at the specification and drawings of this patent, lodged at Washington.

It has been already stated, that Mr. Bigelow claims "the employment of one or more leaves of headles, and of the Jacquard machine in the power loom;" which is funny enough. By reference to Figs. 203 and 204, it will be perceived that Tompkins and Gilroy's loom has eight leaves of headles, besides Jacquard machinery; and yet their patent is dated May 9th, 1835, whereas, Mr. Bigelow's is dated May, 1842; (see also Figs. 212, 213, and 214.)

Some men admire the heights of mountains, the huge waves of the sea, the steep fall of rivers, the compass of the ocean, and the circuit of the stars, but as for us, we shall for the present content ourself with simply noticing a loom for weaving coach lace, Brussels carpeting, and other fabrics with looped surfaces invented by Thomas Thompson, a subject of Great Britain, and which invention has been SECURED by Letters Patent. By the aid of this loom, Mr. T. is enabled to manufacture coach lace at the cost of one penny farthing per yard, which formerly cost four pence half penny, exhibiting the astounding difference in favour of Mr. Thompson's machine, over every previous machine, of three pence farthing per yard. To this manufacture he has added the Brussels

carpet, velvet, &c., which we are assured is produced with the most surprising velocity. "It is truly astonishing to see the march of science."

Mr. Thompson's ingenious loom is described in the London Journal of Arts and Sciences, conjoined series No. CL. vol. XXIV, and may be procured on application to Messrs. Newton & Son 66 Chancery Lane, London.

As we intend to give a complete description of this machine, in our work on carpet weaving by power, no farther notice need be taken of it in this place.

Miles Berry, (of the firm of Newton and Berry, patent agents, 66 Chancery-lane, London,) obtained a patent in August, 1838, for certain improvements in looms for producing metallic tissues, and also improvements in such tissues, applicable to the making of buttons, epaulettes, tassels, and other purposes, for which gold and silver lace or braiding is commonly employed, and to the making of imitations of jewellery and other fancy articles.

These improvements consist, in weaving or producing ornamental metallic tissues or fabrics of wire applicable to various useful purposes, for which gold and silver lace is commonly used; as for instance, in the making of different articles of ornamental dress, epaulettes, bands, sashes, bindings, trimmings, tassels, buttons, and various other purposes where gold and silver lace is now applied, also to the covering of boxes, books, card cases, and covering or forming various imitations of jewellery, and other fancy articles; and consist in weaving, making, or forming, such ornamental metallic tissues, entirely of strands of wire, either of gold, silver, silver-gilt, copper-gilt or other metal, or mixtures of metal, which wires are woven into a tissue or fabric, having patterns or ornamental devices thereon, by any suitable figuring machinery, such ornamental metallic tissues being composed entirely of metal, in contradistinction to the ordinary gold and silver lace, and have all the variety of design or pattern, and brilliancy of appearance of the finest figured or brocaded silk, or other fabric, without their perishable qualities; and are capable of being cleaned by boiling or washing with water, or immersing in acid solution, and gilded or silvered or even soldered together after they have been woven,-which cannot be done with tissues having silk, cotton, or other threads, interwoven in the fabric.

The improvements in the looms for weaving such tissue or fabrics, being the application and adaptation of the well known Jacquard