is made on each of the said wires; and 14 inches below this head the wire is flattened, as at M M, where an eye is punched or bored in it, and these eyes are substituted for mails. The wires or heylds, work in two boards C and D (Fig. 99) the board C suspends or hangs them, by their heads A; the board D serves as a guide to direct the point of each needle respectively throughout the series or range of the web into the holes of the trunk B, on which the apron or pattern web works. I (A. C.) make the boards C and D one inch thick, (each we suppose.) 51⁄2 inches broad, and 4 feet in length, or long enough to work on the slides E E, (Fig. 99.) I (A. C.) bore the holes in the said boards C and D large enough to admit wires about 2 numbers coarser than that actually used, say for No. 11; and the holes of the trunk and pattern apron, I make of an inch in diameter, (we suppose that in making the holes of this size, allowance is given for atmospheric variations.) Each row in breadth of the boards C and D contains twelve holes; and all these rows are slanted (see Fig. 66, draw loom,) so that the back hole of one row shall be nearly square with the front one of another row: this prevents the warp threads from crowding each other. The trunk B, pattern web, and boards must be of the breadth of the web (curious jargon this!); and the trunk B is hollowed out the depth of the sheed. The trunk may be cast, or made of sheet brass, brazed together, and fixed or screwed on blocks or end pieces; and it turns on an axle or centre, which passes through the slides E E: these slides are 60 inches long, 25 above and 35 below from the point where the axle or centre of the trunk B passes through them. The slides E E are kept in their proper positions by the brackets or guides F F, and they are connected by suitable straps to beams* LL; these beams are supported at the top framing of the loom by the hangers I I, and to their ends 4 rods H H are suspended. (Only two of these can be seen in the Figs.) The rods H H are connected to the board C (as shown in Fig 99,) two at the front and two at the back, for the purpose of raising and depressing the board C when required. n, n, are metallic rods, which pass through the board C, and are screwed or otherwise secured to the board D: the ends Q Q of these rods guide the board D, and keep it in its proper place. The under extremities of the slides E E are attached to the ends of the lever or cross bar R, (which may also be seen at B2 Fig. 100) on the ends or axis of the trunk B is a 4 toothed wheel P (see Fig. 101,) for the purpose of turning the trunk B, which is

*Jacks, not beams.

caught in its descent by the hooks T T (see Fig. 99,) attached to the frame of the loom at S S.

W W are levers, which work in the slides E E, and are pressed by springs K K, in order to bring and keep the trunk square (as is well understood, of course, being so like the apparatus used for a similar purpose in common Jacquards) the levers W W are more clearly shown at u, u, (Fig. 102.) ZZ (Fig. 99) are two slides, one at each side of the machine, which pass the hooks TT from one side of the toothed wheels P to the other, so as to make the trunk B revolve, either backward or forward (a view of one of these levers Z will be had in Fig. 101.) The operation of the machine is as follows:-"

"The foot board or treadle O (see Fig. 99) of the lever or bar R, by being pressed down with the foot, raises up the slides E E, the trunk B, and the guide board D, and lowers the rest board C: this allows the heylds or wires to pass into the trunk B wherever holes are cut or punched out on the pattern card or cards." (Every alter

nate wire is represented in Fig. 99, as being raised, and this would cause the warp threads passing through their eyes M M to be raised also; and if these wires were raised and depressed alternately with the others, plain cloth might be produced.) "When the weaver lifts his foot from off the foot board or treadle O, the wheels PP (see Fig. 101,) on the axis of the trunk B, are caught by the hooks TT, and these hooks cause the trunk to turn one-fourth part of a revolution." (One of the hooks T may be seen at F2 Fig. 101, and the cylinder treadle O is distinctly shown at O' Fig. 100: in Fig. 100, R indicates the position of the lever or bar R, and B' that of the slides E E, for raising and depressing the cylinder B.)

The enlightened patentee, the said A. C., claims, "the exclusive right to make the above specified machine, to suit all kinds of flowered cloth." He also claims, "the principle of lifting the sheed or shire (not county) with metallic heylds, directly by the pattern apron and trunk (not portmanteau) roll or receiver, or by lowering the heylds into the same, as described."

We have quoted above, Mr. C's own words, in order that our readers may judge correctly of his pretensions as a weaver. If he is as ignorant of mechanics as he appears to be of the proper names of the different parts of the common loom, we need not be astonished although he tells us, that a machine, such as that represented in Figs. 99, 100, 101, and 102, "will manufacture all kinds of flowered cloth."

The patentee, Calderhead, speaks of making "a Scotch imperial three-ply carpet" with his machine; but, let us see how he could accomplish this:-In the first place, suppose a carpet 36 inches in breadth, and containing 1800 threads of warp from selvage to selvage; in this case 1800 needles or headles would be required, and the pattern cards and cylinder B would require to be 36 inches each, in length; suppose each of the holes in the cylinder B to be of an inch in diameter, (as stated by the intelligent patentee;) and after making the necessary allowance for the metal left uncut between the holes, perhaps 3 holes might be got on an inch; then, as there are 12 holes in the row across the cylinder B, there would be 36 holes in one inch of the length of it, and likewise 36 needles on one inch across the web; so that in the whole breadth of the web, (36 inches,) there could only be 1296 needles, and, of course, the same number of threads, instead of 1800. But, some kinds of figured goods contain from 400 to 650 threads of warp per inch; and it often happens that a web has as many as 16,000, or 20,000 threads in it, from selvage to selvage, so that on the above principle, 16,000

or 20,000 needles, and the same number of holes in the cylinder would be required in such a case: besides, a web of this kind is very frequently S0 or 120 inches broad, and would require from 16,000 to 20,000 cards to produce the pattern. We question the applicability of the "heylds, trunk" and "apron" to webs of this description, unless the needles could be made of wire, at least, as fine as No. 60 or 70; and, moreover, cards 80 or 120 inches long might be found somewhat difficult to manage, at least, this is our opinion. Before dismissing this subject we would mention, that one of the most extraordinary specimens of silk weaving, perhaps, ever executed, was exhibited at Mr. Morrison's late conversazione given to the members of the Institute of British Architects. It was a portrait of Jacquard, representing that extraordinary man in his workshop surrounded by his implements, and planning the construction of that beautiful machinery, which now, in its increased perfection, returns this testimony to the genius of its inventor. This work, worthily entitled "Hommage á J. M. Jacquard," was woven with such truth and delicacy as to resemble a fine line engraving: it was executed by Didier, Petit & Co. There were 1,000 threads in each square inch (French,) in both the warp and the weft; and 24,000 cards were used in the manufacture, each card large enough to receive 1,050 holes.

But, to conclude, we would state, for the information of our readers, that we, ourself, made a machine on the same principle as that claimed by Mr. Calderhead, as far back as Jan. 1833, (for manufacturing common ingrain carpeting ;) and a patent for which was granted to Claude Marie Helaire Molinard, of Bury Street, St. Mary Axe, in the city of London, merchant, bearing date 9th April 1833; (see vol. 15, Conjoined Series, of the London Journal of Arts and Sciences, for the year 1840, pages 286 and 287,) so that Mr. C's patent is, in point of fact, null and void. We may also remark, that a friend of ours, in London, William Webb, Esq., of the firm of James Jacquier & Co., No. 1 Wood St., Spitalfields, showed us a machine, in the year 1836, differing in no respect from that constructed by Mr. C., and represented in Figs. 99, 100, 101, and 102; and, no doubt, Mr. Webb would be glad to furnish any number of them to order, to whom we would recommend those of our friends who want such articles to make application forthwith. Perhaps machines of this description might be found of advantage in the manufacture of horse-blankets. (See Arkite Ghiden Ghelen's loom, Fig. A. Introduction.)

The pattern cards PPP Fig. 97, are cut (in small establish

ments) between two steel plates, like those represented in Figs. 103

The holes A A, in these plates, correspond to those of the cylinder shown in Figs. 93 or 99. BB (Figs. 103 and 104) are large holes to fit on the knobs M M in Figs. 93 and 94; CC are hinges which connect the plates, and they must be well fitted, so that the plates may present no impediment to the punching of the pasteboard or card paper, when it is placed between them; DD are handles attached to the upper plate, by which the operator raises or lowers it, when he wishes to take out or put in a card; the large holes B B correspond to those marked O O O Fig. 97.

The method of cutting cards in these plates, from the design paper or pattern, is so well known to all persons having the least knowledge of figured weaving, that we need give no further description of it in this place. We would state, however, that on this plan, an active man can only cut from 100 to 150 cards per day; whereas, on the great French card-cutting apparatus or machine, (to which the reader is referred,) he can cut from 2500 to 3000, with the assistance of a boy, in the same time.*

We would here mention for the benefit of the manufacturers of this country, that a card-cutting machine of this kind, in its most perfect state, may be purchased from our friend, M. Dioudonnat, No. 12 Rue St. Maur, Paris, for 2400 francs; this includes the copying and stamping machines, the simples and all the other necessary apparatus, as well as the packing or boxing of the whole and its carriage to Havre for shipment. One of these splendid machines would, at least, be sufficient to cut cards for a manufactory containing 300 looms.

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