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where the warp is underneath. Hence the two spaces at the bottom of the design (Fig. 3S,) will represent those parts of the figure which are produced by working twice over the treadles A, the next two spaces those that are produced by the treadles B; the treadles A, again being wrought eight times over from the large squares of eight spaces each way, and so on with any other variety that may occur, without any regard to the number of tweeling leaves in the division.

It must be observed however, that this pattern is drawn upon a comparatively small scale, and thus in applying such patterns to practice, they may be enlarged in any given proportion, either to expand their dimension or to suit them to any desirable set of reed; thus were all the figures on the plan, m, multiplied by 3, the draught would stand three times the size it now is, and so of any other pattern.

When a still greater variety of pattern is required, the number of divisions must be increased as in the other branches of weaving; as these mountings, however, can only be augmented by adding complete sets of the tweel, the varieties arising from an increase of leaves in this, must be more limited than in almost any other branch. This disadvantage however, is in a great measure compensated by the ingenious diversity which is usually observed in the succession of the draught, by means of which a style of pattern peculiar to diaper weaving is produced. The same draught, also, will weave a variety of patterns, agreeably to the different arrangements of the raising cords upon the binding plan, and the succession of working over the treadles; and that diaper mountings may not always be confined to their original draughts, the headles are not, in general, spaced like common power loom, or other headles, but are cast separately, as in the finer kinds of fancy mountings, so as to run upon the backing or muddling cord, by which the weaver can adapt them, at pleasure, to any pattern he may have occasion The following plan, Fig. 39,

to weave.

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which is on a scale of four divisions, and only a four leaf tweel, for saving room, will give the reader an idea of the manner in which a variety of patterns may be obtained from the same draught and succession of treading, merely by a different position of the raising cords upon the treadles.

SECTION THIRD.

WEAVING DOUBLE CLOTH.

THE next variety of weaving that claims our attention, is that of double cloth, which is for the most part composed of two similar fabrics (generally plain) interwoven at various intervals, and formed into a diversity of figures, agreeably to the design of the pattern to be produced. This is the method usually practised in ingrain carpet weaving (which see.)

In order to render this species of weaving as perspicuous as possible, let us take, for example, the warp of any plain fabric one thread of which is blue and the other white, alternately, and let us suppose this warp to be drawn through a common four leaf set of plain headles in the usual way. These headles might be worked to produce the following changes of fabric:

1st. When the two back leaves are raised and sunk alternately with the two fore ones, and white weft thrown across, the whole fabric, which is plain cloth, will be formed into very small blue and white stripes, and if a pick of blue and a pick of white be thrown in alternately, a corresponding check will be produced.

2d. If the two fore leaves were constantly sunk and the back ones raised alternately, it is plain, that by throwing in blue weft, all the blue warp would be woven into a uniformly blue fabric, leaving the white warp unwoven below.

3d. Were the two back leaves constantly raised and the two front ones raised alternately, a white fabric would be produced by throwing in white weft, leaving out the blue warp above.

Hence, if one shuttle only were employed for both webs, so long

as the weaver continued to work upon one set of treadles, the two webs would still be distinct, except at the selvages, where they would be united by the weft.

It was in this manner that Ichao he-he-hi-ho Ouang (nephew to Teling Ouang, emperor of China, who reigned 1079 years before Christ,) manufactured hempen pipes, for conducting water to his uncle's flower gardens. Pipes, woven in the same way, have been lately adapted, in France, to the fire engine, and also as wicks for the patent lamps. It was likewise on this principle that Julius Cesar's great coat was woven.

TWEELING DOUBLE CLOTH.

Although tweeling, however extensively it may be otherwise employed, is seldom applied to double cloth, yet as there is great room here for a display of ingenuity, especially in the manufacture of shawls, plaids, bed covers, &c., it will be necessary to show how the several varieties of this kind of texture may be produced.

It has been already observed that four leaves of headles, two for each set, are required to weave double cloth of the plain texture. If, therefore, one set of tweeling leaves be substituted for each set of plain ones, it will be obvious, that every variety of pattern that can be produced on the plain texture, can likewise be effected on the tweeled one.

For example, take six leaves, enter orange warp in the back three, and red warp in the front three. It is evident that if the back set be worked, a three leaf tweel can be produced by lifting one leaf in regular succession until three picks of weft be thrown into the web, and thus, supposing the weft to be orange, cloth of that colour will be produced, entirely independent of the red warp in the front leaves.

Again, by working the front leaves exclusively of the back ones, a red fabric will be produced, provided the weft be red; and if these two webs be made to pass through each other at different intervals, various devices and patterns may be produced. (See ingrain carpeting.)

This mounting makes one web entirely orange and the other all red, but if the two colours of weft be different from the warp, then we may throw the greater proportion of either one, or both warps, outward, or inward, and thus a variety of colours may be displayed.

As it would, however, require a great number of leaves of headles,

and treadles to weave but a very limited pattern on this principle, this style of work seems to be peculiarly adapted to the draw-loom, under which head the subject of tweeling double cloth will be further illustrated.

THE JUNCTION OF TWO UNEQUAL FABRICS.

This species of double cloth is chiefly confined to quiltings, commonly called Marseilles quiltings, which are also manufactured in considerable quantities in Great Britain, and printed for vestings.

The mounting of a quilt consists of a set of plain headles, usually four for the face, and a number of stitching leaves proportionate to the range of the pattern for the back, and these produce all the variety of figure in the design. The stitching leaves are frequently adapted to diagonal and diamond patterns, although they may be made to produce any other fancy figure at pleasure, and the range of pattern, as in other branches of ornamental weaving, may be enlarged beyond the power of leaves, or until the application of the draw loom becomes necessary."

Quiltings are generally woven in reeds of the Manchester and Bolton count, which contain a certain number of beers or porters in 24 inches. The warp and weft of the face are considerably finer than those of the back, and two threads of the face and one of the back are drawn into the same interval or split of the reed. If we take, for example, a No. 36 reed that is 36 beers in 24 inches, the warps and wefts as noted below will make a pretty good quilt: For the face No. 36.

For the back 26. warps.

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In weaving these fabrics, there are two picks of the fine and two of the coarse weft thrown in alternately. One pick of the fine stitches the back and face together, and one of the coarse is thrown in between the back and the face clear of both fabrics, and this is called the wadding. The other coarse pick goes into one of the sheds that work the back, so that when eight picks of weft are thrown, four go to the face, two for wadding, and two are thrown into the two alternate sheds of the back. The following plan (Fig. 40) will show the construction of a quilt mounting.

* The late Mr. David Anderson, Damask Manufacturer, Glasgow, wove a shirt with a fine frill, double stitched neck, shoulder straps, and wrist bands; also gussets, buttons, button holes, &c. with the Royal Arms emblazoned on the breast.

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In the above plan A and B are the two leaves for the face, and o, v, w, r, the stitching or back leaves. The treadle b, opens one shed of the face, and sinks all the warp of the back, and this treadle works alternately with the treadles, e, f, g, h, which open the other shed of the face and at the same time raise each of the back or stitching leaves. The treadles, a, and c, open the two sheds of the back, while at the same time they raise all the warp of the face above the shuttle. The treadle, d, opens the shed for the wadding, by raising the face and sinking the back.

By tracing over the figures that point out the order of treading it will be found that the first and second picks, which are fine, are thrown into the face, but at the first tread the stitching leaf, x, is raised, by which the back and face are tacked together. The third and fourth picks are coarse, the former goes for wadding and the latter is the first shot of the back. The fifth and sixth picks are fine, which are wrought into the face, but the former has the back leaf, w, raised, by which the back is again stitched to the face. The seventh and eighth picks are coarse, the former goes for wadding, and the latter forms the second pick of the back: and thus any pattern may be woven at pleasure, according to the succession of the draught on the stitching leaves, and the order in which they are raised.

Although the preceding plan is given in the most concise form of which it is susceptible, in order to render the principles of this species of weaving as perspicuous as possible, yet in practice the weaver will find it very awkward to shift his right foot from each of the stitching treadles to the wadding one, while his left is engaged with a different succession with the others. To obviate this, a wadding treadle with the same cording is usually placed alternately with a stitching one, by which arrangement the succession of treading for the right foot will be in a regular or progressive

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