and sardinhas constitute the subsistence of labourers and all the lower orders. Beggars will rub a sardinha on their children's bread to give it a taste. All the corners of the streets, and in all parts of the town, are stalls where women called Frigideiras are continually engaged in frying these fish.

"Every twentieth pace

Salutes th' ungarded nose with such a whiff"

of stinking oil as makes temperance reel. The smell can be only equalled by the agreeable perfumes exhaled by these ladies themselves.

October 20.

While I was sitting at breakfast this morning, my landlady came into the room, and asked if either of us were desirous of having a tooth extracted, or any dentistical operation performed, as an acquaintance of hers was in the house who would be exceedingly happy to serve us. My two friends who were at table, said it was a God-send to me, for ever since I left London I had been annoyed by the remnant of a tooth which Ruspini undertook to extract, and which he told me was entirely out. I have been afraid to trust my jaws to the mercy of one of these Portuguese operators, for the signs over their door are almost enough to create a tooth-ach, independent of the formidable appearance of the professors themselves. Their shops are designated by the figure of a bloody tooth of gigantic dimensions, and the professional dress of the fraternity consists of a chain of brass across the shoulders, ornamented at equal distances with rotten teeth. Such pomp and circumstance made so strong an impression that I have not felt at all inclined to let them try experiments on me. I accordingly, by the persuasion of my companions, desired our good hostess to introduce her acquaintance, though I was very far from entertaining an extraordinary degree of confidence in such an applicant, or meaning to make trial of the operator's skill. If such were my sentiments before I beheld her (for we were told the dentist was a lady) they were by no means rendered more favourable when my landlady returned, and ushered in an old German woman on the verge of seventy. I have hitherto thought that the climax of ugliness was attained by the old women of Lisbon; but whatever may be the cause, they certainly have a rival in this female professor. Never did I see a more horrible aspect. Her complexion from a long residence here had acquired a mahogany cast. Her skin was puckered into a thousand wrinkles, like a piece of shrivelled parchment, and every feature settled into a symmetry of ugliHer eyes were like two red peppers, or rather live coals. In her hand she held a huge parchment scroll, so that altogether

ness.

she looked like an ambassadress from the infernal regions. This contained the signatures of a great number of persons, giving assurance of her skill, and testifying that she practised with reputation in divers places. The scroll was sealed, as she informed us, with the arms of the Lord Mayor of London; for this, however, we were under the necessity of taking her word. It might for aught I know, have been the state seal of Kien-long, for not any part of the impression could be traced on the wax. In despite of the unpromising appearance of this extraordinary practitioner I allowed the old lady, after a good deal of solicitation on her part, to look into my mouth. Having inspected the premises, by means of her spectacles, she persuaded me much against my inclination, and not well knowing else how to rid myself of her importunity, to suffer her to give me a proof of her dexterity, on which she passed not a few encomiums. She produced her apparatus, which seemed to me instruments of torture, and I put myself in an arm-chair, fully prepared to undergo torments, at least equal to any ever invented by the most ingenious inquisitor in Portugal. I had made it one of the conditions on which she was to commence her proceedings, that all spectators were to withdraw. This treaty, notwithstanding, was not observed with fidelity; for in the midst of the operation I discovered two faces peeping through the door, almost convulsed with laughter at the scene. My merriment was by no means so excessive, for however ludicrous might have been the exhibition to one less interested in the catastrophe than myself, my feelings were very tragic on the occasion. She did finally accomplish her object, not indeed without much violent tugging, on which occasion she thus triumphantly and expressively apostrophized the tooth," Here I hab him de dam rascal.' The extraction of the root of my tooth was effected with but little less difficulty than I have found in the days of yore in performing the operation of extracting a certain root yclep'd the cube. This latter was usually accompanied by convulsive shakings and cold sweats.

Lisbon is now completely evacuated by the French. In celebration of this event there is every night a grand illumination of the city, which is to continue a fortnight. The effect of this, from the unequal ground on which the city stands, and the height of the houses, is extremely splendid. From our windows, which command nearly the whole extent of Lisbon, the streets seem in a blaze. Rockets and fireworks are displayed on the most elevated points. The theatres and public buildings also exhibit transparencies emblematical of the passing events. The embarkation of the French army took up more time than was at first supposed. The greater part of the British army are encamped on the hills between Quelus and Lisbon, from whence a number

sufficient to garrison the city had gradually been removed into quarters here as the French have embarked. The rest will speedily march, under the command of Sir John Moore, into. Spain, which they are to enter by three different routes. It was at first intended that the Portuguese troops should occupy Lisbon. Had it been so, the streets would have been deluged with blood. The scenes of horror which have attended the last days of the embarkation, notwithstanding the utmost exertions used by the English to preserve tranquillity and prevent bloodshed, were such as make me shudder at the recollection. The cruelties committed by these barbarians on the defenceless soldiers who have been walking singly and unarmed, and which I have often reluctantly been compelled to witness, make me blush to think that I belong to the same species. As soon as the inhabitants were assured that the French had so far evacuated the town as to leave them nothing farther to apprehend from their presence, their demeanour became as bold and insolent as it had previously been pusillanimous. The moment that they became convinced of their owu security, the fury of the rabble broke out in acts of the most dastardly revenge. Wherever a French soldier appeared, he was hunted by these blood hounds through the streets, and torn to pieces. If he sought refuge by flying to a house, the door was shut against him, and he was again driven back among his merciless assailants. Such is the gallantry of this noble race. A hundred knives now pursued a defenceless straggler, whose very aspect but a few days before would have inspired the multitude with dismay and terror: whose frown alone would have put a regiment to flight. The conduct of these noble-minded patriots on this occasion is worthy of their behaviour in the field. At the sight of their enemy they threw away their arms and ran in every direction. When the battle

was decided, they bravely cut to pieces and mangled the wounded and the dying! How deserving are these gallant Portuguese of assistance! In the midst of this scene of blood and horror, the conduct of the English has afforded a noble spectacle. Both officers and soldiers have ever eagerly come forward, and most nobly defended the unfortunate Frenchmen against the assaults of their base pursuers. Though overwhelmed by numbers, was an Englishman by, the poor wretch felt assured of protection. To Englishmen you would see them every where running and clinging for safety. The lives of many, very many, were preversed by the exertions of their generous foe, and numbers of the cowardly assailants fell sacrifices to their temerity. It was an interesting and singular sight to behold British soldiers fighting with those whom they came to protect, and protecting those with whom they came to fight. Some of the transports with French

troops on board soon after sailing were obliged by stress of weather to put back into the Tagus. Kellerman was in one of them, and had the imprudence to venture on shore, where he remained and dined with one of the English generals. At his return to re-embark in the evening, the moon shining bright, his person, although disguised in plain clothes, was recognized by the rabble; and but for the spirited exertions of some English officers on the quay, his life would have been inevitably sacrificed to the rage of the populace. After he had got into the boat, the rascally centinel on duty levelled his piece at him: however, being a Portuguese gun, it missed fire.

How shall I describe the Portuguese troops that have now come into Lisbon! These conquerors of the French! Falstaff was ashamed of his soldiers. He certainly never was in Portugal. Had he beheld these, his own would have been exalted into heroes, No eye hath seen such scare-srows. They indeed look like the cankers of a calm world and long peace, and verily resemble tattered prodigals lately come from swine keeping, from eating draff and husks. I did never see such pitiful rascals. They may be good enough to toss, and answer as food for powder, but I am sure they are good for nothing else. They are paired like the trained bands in Hogarth's picture of my lord mayor's day.

St. Antonio was formerly generalissimo of the Portuguese forces. His present successor is Don Bernardin Friere de Conrada, the gentleman who behaved so discreetly at VimeiraA general well worthy to command such an army. The good breeding of this warrior is equal to his bravery, and of this I was fortunate the other evening at the theatre to see a specimen. The boxes here are private, that is, they are hired by the season; but the proprietors have recently relinquished their claims to such a monopoly, and very properly thrown them open for the accommodation of British officers, who would otherwise for want of seats be unable to participate in the public amusements. I went on this occasion in company with some officers of the staff, among whom was Col. D. and by chance we seated ourselves in the box of this Portuguese general, supposing it public like the rest. When the play was about half over, the said gentleman arrived, and finding the box already occupied, began to dispute our right to its possession. He observed, that the box belonged to him, and very rudely insisted that we should immediately go out of it. A nobleman in a neighbouring seat, who heard the demand, interfered, and expressed his astonishment at such extraordinary conduct. Col. D. was at last so irritated at his brutal behaviour, that he approached this vociferous claimant for the purpose of wringing his nose, of which design he no

sooner got intimation, than the gallant commander prudently desisted, and slunk out of the box amid the hisses of his countrymen.*

The Portuguese rarely go out of their own country, and their ideas are exceedingly narrow and contracted. It is not among the lower class alone that education is neglected. The nobility and clergy are universally on all subjects most grossly ignorant. The minds of women, even of the highest rank are, if possible, still more uncultivated. This cannot be wondered at, from the secluded state in which they are kept, as well as from the neglect and inattention with which they are treated by the men on all occasions. In company the sexes always set apart, and rarely converse together. For this reason the women are much more partial to the company of strangers than that of their own countrymen. But so uninstructed are their minds, that no man of enlightened understanding can receive either pleasure or amusement from their society. This defect is, however, felt only by strangers, as the men here are fortunately so ignorant themselves, that they are unable to discover in the other sex any want of intellect or education. When walking together through the streets, the two sexes never go arm in arm, nor even walk side by side. If a whole family happen to be together, they all follow each other in a sort of Indian file. The ladies ride on jack-asses, which is a very fashionable animal here. They sit in a pack saddle, with their left side towards the ass's head, A footman attends them, armed with a sharp stick, with which he goads the animal as often as it is necessary to quicken his pace. If the beast happens to go a little too fast, he stops him by pulling his tail. The equipages in use here are unique in their kind. The few coaches in the city are made in the ugly Spanish model, and drawn by mules, not seldom harnessed with ropes. Calesas, with two mules, are the most common vehicles. The postillion rides on the left mule. He is usually equipped with a pair of jackboots, like fire-buckets, huge mustachios, a cocked hat, and a queue. Perched up behind, you see two footmen rigged out in a similar costume. I saw a couple this morning behind a calesa in green liveries. One was about four feet high, and the other six feet by two. They put me in mind of the alehouse, sign of Robin Hood and Little John. No people in the world effect such dignity as the Portuguese gentry, and never before was dignity so caricatured. When they ride it is the custom to sit uncovered. But a servant returning in his master's coach or calesa, is obliged to keep his hat on his head, so that gentlefolks in other carriages may not accidentally be betrayed into any improper salutation,

* He has since been cut to pieces for treachery, by his own soldiers.