him and Captain Von Scheel about the prosecution of my journey, I was induced to alter the plan I had originally formed, and, instead of taking the western route to Reykia vik, I resolved to proceed along the eastern and southern coasts of the island, as I had still sufficient time left, and the numerous rivers which meet the traveller in that direction are crossed with less difficulty in autumn than in spring.

The same day, I formed a most interesting and valuable acquaintance with the Sysselmand, Secretary Brieme, whom I accompanied in the evening to Kiarnè, the place of his residence, about two miles to the south of Akureyri. The situation is charming, having the whole valley straight before it, and the view of several other inferior valleys which break off from that of Eyafiord on the left hand. The house was undergoing a thorough repair; and the garden consisting of two divisions, with striking moral sentences written above the doors, was laid out with a great deal of taste, and watered by small streams which are diverted into it from a neighbouring rill. On entering the house, I was first shewn into the Secretary's office, which contains a collection of books of minor importance, such as miscellanies, journals, &c.; from the office I was conducted into his parlour, where I found two excellent libraries; the one consisting of books on law, political economy, &c.; those in the other were of a mixed nature, but all works of merit and importance. After a short interval, Mrs Brieme and the family were introduced, all of whom had something very interesting in their appearance; and having partaken of a dish of blue berries and cream, I was desired to walk up stairs and see Mrs B.'s library, which I found in a neat little room, well arranged, and consisting, for the most part, of choice theological works. Mrs B. is distinguished for her piety; and, besides attending to the management of a numerous family, she devotes a considerable portion of her time to the education of her children, and the improvement of her own mind. Her library contains about an hundred volumes. Among the English authors, of which she possessed translations, either in Icelandic or Danish, I observed Hervey's Meditations, New

ton on the Prophecies, Blair's Lectures on Christ's Sermon on the Mount, Sherlock on Death, &c. She has Guldberg's and Bastholm's translations of the New Testament, and Bishop Balle's excellent Biblical Lectures. I was also pleased to find a copy of the Icelandic New Testament of 1807; which, from the marks it contained, afforded proof of its having been read with attention. The Secretary has two Icelandic Bibles in folio; but he nevertheless intends to purchase some copies of the new edition for the greater convenience of his children.

From this interesting apartment, I proceeded to a large room adjoining, which is properly the bed-room of the servants. The beds were clean and neatly arranged, and what is but too little attended to in Iceland, the place was well aired. It gave me peculiar pleasure to be informed, that this apartment also formed the domestic chapel. Here, the whole family, which consists of twenty members, assembles every evening, when a psalm is sung, and, after a chapter of the Bible has been read, an appropriate prayer is presented by the head of the family. Besides this exercise, the Secretary spends an hour or two, in the long winter evenings, in reading to the family, while at work; and, what cannot be sufficiently commended, he has substituted the reading of the historical books of Scripture for that of the Sagas, which was formerly in universal use, and is still kept up by most of the peasants. Considered as furnishing many important data to the history of the north, which, without their aid, would be extremely dark and imperfect, the Sagas are certainly of great value, and, in the hands of the learned, may be turned to a good account; but to encourage their perusal by the common people, would only be to nourish those seeds of superstition and credulity which they are but too prone to cultivate, and which, in their vegetation, cannot but have a baleful influence on their sentiments and conduct in life.

The exercise of domestic worship is attended to, in almost every family in Iceland, from Michaelmas to Easter. During the summer months the family are so scattered, and

the time of their returning from their various employments so different, that it is almost impossible for them to worship God in a collective capacity; yet there are many families, whose piety is more lively and zealous, that make conscience of it the whole year round. The inhabitants of this, and several of the neighbouring vallies, are the most enlightened and intelligent of any on the island. They pay great attention to the education of their children; and, being favoured with a richer share of the bounties of nature than their brethren in other districts, they are better enabled to provide them with such books as are necessary for their instruction and improvement. Yet, even here, the Bible is a scarce book; and instances have been known of peasants offering five and six specie dollars, that is about £1, 5s. for a copy, without being able to obtain it.

On the 7th, which was the Lord's day, as here was no sermon in the vicinity, I ascended the rising ground behind the factory, and, falling in with a dry and sheltered spot, I lay down on the grass, and, after spending some time in prayer to the Father of Lights, and God of all my mercies, I took my Bible out of my pocket, and began to enjoy some of the heavenly strains of the sweet singer of Israel. While my thoughts were borne on high by the elevations of his sacred muse, I heard the notes of harmony behind me; which, on turning about, I found proceeded from a cottage, at a little distance to the left. The inhabitants, consisting of two families, had collected together for the exercise of social worship, and were sending up the melody of praise to the God of salvation. This practice is universal on the island. When there is no public service, the members of each family (or where there are more families they combine) join in singing several hymns; read the gospel and epistle for the day, a prayer or two, and one of Vidalin's sermons. Where the Bible exists, it is brought forward; and several chapters of it are read by the young people in the family. What an encouragement for the distribution of the Scriptures!

CHAP. III.

Excursion to Holum-Mödruvalla Abbey-Clergymen of Audabrecka and Steinstad-Translator of Milton-Hialtadals-heide-Ascent of the Yökul-Holum-Gisle Jonson-Cathedral-Gudbrand Thorlakson-Removal of the Press-Abolition of the School and Episcopal See-Situation and present state of Holum-MSS-Icelandic Meals -Extent of Hospitality-Hot Springs-Return to Akureyri.

BEFORE setting out on my journey to the east, I resolved to make a short excursion to the neighbourhood of Skagafiord, in order to deliver two letters which I had received, to the Deans, from Bishop Vidalin, relative to the distribution of the Scriptures in that quarter. I accordingly left Akureyri in the forenoon of the 8th of August, in company with Captain Von Scheel, who had the kindness to conduct me as far as Mödruvalla Abbey, the residence of the Conferenceraad Thorarinson, where we arrived about one o'clock. The Abbey is agreeably situated a little to the north of the Hörgá river, at the foot of a long range of very high mountains, which stretches along the west side of it, to the bay of Eyafiord. The houses are all built in a superior style, and the dwelling-house is constructed quite in the Danish fashion. The rooms, furniture, &c. are also finished with as much taste as those of most houses in Denmark. Nor is the church at all inferior. It was constructed, about twenty years ago, by carpenters brought from Denmark on purpose. The internal arrangement is neat and commodious; the pulpit being raised at the end, above the altar, is directly in front of the congregation, and not on one of the sides, near the middle, as is generally the case in the

H

Icelandic churches. It may contain about three hundred people.

We were received by the Conferenceraad and family in the most polite and engaging manner, and treated with an excellent collation. It gave me pleasure to find that this gentleman entered fully into the views and design of the Bible Society; and, on my mentioning how desirable it would be to have a similar institution formed in Iceland, he highly approved of the idea, and engaged to lend his aid in its formation. He also kindly undertook to have ready for me, by my return from Holum, a copy of the Bishop's letter to the Dean, authenticated by his own signature, to serve as an introduction to the clergy in the east, for which I had not made any provision before I left Reykiavik, not having had any idea that I should proceed in that direction.

A little past three, I took leave of this most respectable family, and proceeded up the dales accompanied by the clergyman, Sira Jon Jonson of Audabrecka, whom the Conferenceraad had sent for on purpose to conduct me to the next station. For this favour I consider myself under great obligations to that gentleman, as I not only found in Sira Jon, the learned and intelligent clergyman, but the tenderhearted philanthropist, and the pious and zealous servant of Jesus Christ. He is forty-two years of age, rather little in stature, and remarkably active. He was five years corrector of the school at Holum, and one year employed in the same

* On travelling in Iceland, an Englishman would almost be tempted to believe that all the clergymen are Baronets, as the names Sira Jon, Sira Thomas, Sira Marcus, &c. are constantly ringing in his ears; but in ancient Scotch writings, we not only find "Sir," or "Schir," prefixed to the names of persons of different ranks, but it appears to have been given as a title to ordinary priests, till after the period of the Reformation. In English, "Sire" is made use of in addressing the Monarch, and the same is the case in French; nor can a more endearing term be used than that which characterises him as the "father" of his people. It is highly probable that the Icelandic Sira has the same signification-it being still common for the people in Norway, to address their clergymen by the title of "Father ;" and "the fathers" is a term well known to the readers of Ecclesiastical history. See Dr JAMIESON's Etymological Dictionary of the Scotch Language, and M‘CRIE's Life of Knox.