off of the box-hive and place the forcing-box on top of the hive instead of on the bottom and then pound the hive, and would the bees not cluster in the forcing-box just the same?

2. In working for extracted honey is it best to put a super with combs in on the hive as soon as the bees begin to bring in pollen in the spring, or is it better to wait until the flow is on and they have stored some in the brood chamber? Will the queen lay brood in these frames if put on early? If she starts to lay in them in the spring will she lay in them all summer?

3. Last fall when I had extracted I put the combs back on to be cleaned, but there was still a little honey coming in from the fields so they stored a little in the frames (not enough to cap). Will they work in these in the spring as well as in empty ones?

4. If the queen lays eggs and brood hatches in extracting combs and then the bees store honey in them afterwards, will this honey, when extracted, be darker than that from combs in which no brood has been reared? Will there be any difference in the quality (taste)? How can the queen be prevented from laying in the supers without an excluder?

5. If honey is extracted about the middle of July will it keep until the last of September in open tanks or barrels? The thermometer sometimes reaches 100 degrees and over in July and August. How long will good honey keep in bottles or jars ? Will it granulate when bottled?

6. About how many colonies of bees are there in the United States? In Nebraska ? 7. Early in the spring before there is any field work for the bees, if you feed the bees small amounts daily, will the queen begin laying?

8. Please explain the best method of uniting two weak colonies. Would the two store more honey united than separate ? Would they be liable to swarm?

9. In wintering bees I have read one should make a frame of screen to lay on the frames and then the mat or other absorber on top of this so the bees can move freely, from one frame to the other. Can't they move just as well from the bottom? How do they get from one frame to the other if the mat or absorber is laid directly on the frames?

10. In requeening should the old queen be killed before the new one is introduced? II. Is there any way to make a home-made bee-escape that is cheap and practical? Should the bee-escape be put on the day before the super is to be taken off or can you get the bees out of the super the same day? 12. Is there enough honey produced in the United States to supply the demand or is there place for more beekeepers?

NEBRASKA.

ANSWERS.-I. Generally a box-hive has the top nailed on and the bottom not nailed; hence the instruction to invert. If the top can be lifted off, then there is no need to invert, whether the bottom be tight or loose.

2. It is not best to put the extracting-super on before it is needed, as it makes just so much more room to be kept warm when all the heat is needed below to keep the brood warm. The queen is likely to lay in the second story, and to continue it. However, if the brood-chamber be small, it may be a desirable thing to have the queen lay in the second story at least until the harvest.

3. The bees will work just as well-possibly better-with some honey in the extracting-combs, but that honey that is left over winter in the combs is pretty certain to be candied, and to hasten granulation in the honey that is freshly stored.

4. It is generally considered that honey stored in combs which have been used for brood-rearing is just as good as any in color and taste; but some think there is a little difference. It is a difficult thing to prevent the queen from laying in the upper story without using an excluder, although I think she is less likely to go up if the extractingcombs be shallow. Perhaps Editor Dadant will tell us about that. I think E. D. Townsend keeps the queen down by having full combs of honey in the story next the broodchamber, adding additional stories above this story instead of under.

5. There is a big difference in honey as to the tendency to granulation, Some will granulate within a week or two, while some

will keep liquid a year. I should expect that your honey, if thoroughly ripened, might remain liquid until the last of September; yet it might not. Bottled honey may keep good 10 years or more, but will generally granulate unless heated to above 130 degrees and sealed.

6. The 1910 census gives about 35,000,000 colonies for the United States, and 46,000 colonies for Nebraska. This counts only bees on frames and does not list those in cities.

7. Yes, if you were in a place where there was an utter dearth of bee-pasturage, with warm weather, you could get the queen to lay by feeding. In your region you probably cannot make a day's difference in the time she begins.

8. Very early in the season you can gen erally unite by merely lifting the combs with adhering bees out of one hive and setting them in the other. At other times put a sheet of newspaper over the top bars of one hive and set the other hive over it. The bees will tear away the paper and unite of their own accord, and in four or five days you can move the occupied combs from the one story into the other. The united colony may store more and it may store less than the two separate colonies-depends upon whether they are too weak to be built up for the harvest. The united colony will be more likely to swarm than one of equal strength not united.

9. No; in cold weather they can move from one to another over the top, where it is warm, more readily than under the bottom, where it is cold. If a mat is laid flat upon the top-bars, a little stick, or something of the kind should be under the mat to afford a passage under it.

10. Yes; although the new queen may be caged in the hive a day or more before the old one is killed.

II, Possibly you might make a cone-escape with wire-cloth. Generally you will not get the bees all out before the next day. [Page 198, June, 1915, J. E. Crane gave the description of a home made bee-escape, cheap and practical. A solid honey-board is placed under the super and the bees come out at the end of this board in the manner shown in the illustration.-EDITOR.]

12. The demand is so little that many beekeepers feel they do not get enough for their honey. Yet it would be for the good of the nation if ten times as much honey were consumed as is now produced, and if the people were sufficiently informed as to the value of honey, that amount might easily be consumed.

Queen-Excluder-Hybrid Bees-Salt for BeesBasswood Trees-Honey-House-Bee-Cellar

1. I purchased ten wood and wire queenexcluders, and as my bees are all of the black strain the queens go through. I will need some more bees. Would you advise me to get the same kind or what would you do?

2. Could you tell me of a good reliable place to buy queeens without paying too big a price?

3. How long does it take a man to get immune to bee-stings, being stung two or three times daily, and when immune will it last from fall until spring?

4. Would it pay to run an outyard with only 20 or 25 colonies at home and about that many at the outyard? I have an auto and can find a good location about three or four miles from home.

5. A neighbor beekeeper tells me that a hybrid bee is more cross than a pure Italian or a pure black. Is this so?

6. Will it injure honey to let it stand in a galvanized tank? If so, what can be done with it?

7. Would taking whisky be any help to a person when real sick from bee stings?

8. What is the reason bees work so much on salt? Would it pay to leave salt some place for them?

9. How many basswood trees for each col

ony would you want before you would consider it a fairly good place for an outyard with white clover on the side?

10. What does it cost to join the Beekeepers' Association, and who do you see about it ?

II. If I build a honey house with a cellar under it for my bees, would carpenter work in this house bother the bees in winter?

IOWA. ANSWERS.-I. If the queen-excluders are all right, neither black nor Italian queens should go through. Other things being equal I suppose the wires are preferable to the stamped zinc, but I surely wouldn't want those that would let queens through.

2. I must refer you to the advertising columns of the Bee Journal. I think any of those advertising will furnish good queens, and you can compare prices yourself.

3. I don't know very definitely, but I suppose that in such a case a man might become immune to a good extent in two or three months, and I think the immunity should last through the winter. But if you mean by "immune" that a bee-sting doesn't hurt at all, then I think there are very few that ever become really immune. I have been at it for more than 50 years, and a beesting hurts me like sixty now. But the hurt doesn't last very long, and it swells very little.

4. That depends on the location. It would be a very poor location that would not support 40 colonies. If the location is fairly good it will hardly be advisable to start an outapiary until you have more than 75 or 100 colonies.

5. It is very often so.

6. I hardly think it will do any harm for the few days it should remain in the tank before being put in permanent containers.

7. It would likely do more harm than good. 8. I don't know, but I suppose the salt supplies some need, and as they seem to care for it it might be well to give it to them.

9. I don't know. I have seen it estimated that one tree was enough for a colony, but I don't know how correct that is.

10. If you cannot join through some local association near home, you can join directly by sending $1.50 to the secretary, Prof. F. Eric Millen, Ames, Iowa.

II. With only a single-board floor over the cellar and with much heavy pounding. I should be afraid of results. With a double floor and something to act as a deadener a little pounding would hardly do much harm,

FOR SALE-Apiary of bees at Tularosa, N. Mex.; up-to-date appliances, good bees, good bee location, and fine climate to live in. Selling because of death of late owner, J. A DeWitt. N. B. DeWitt,

Care El Paso & S. W. Ry., Douglas, Ariz.

MY BRIGHT Italian queens will be ready to ship April 1 at 75c each; virgin queens, 30c each. Send for price list of queens. Bees by the pound. Safe arrival and satisfaction guarranteed. W. W. Talley. Rt. 4, Greenville, Ala.

YEAR old Italian queens, $6 00 a doz, Bees by the pound April and May delivery. Good bees, queens, service, and satisfaction always. Write for prices at once,

S. Mason, Hatch, New Mex.

QUEENS, Doolittle and Moore strain, also GOLDENS that are GOLDEN. One select unt. $1 00; 6, $4.25; 12, $8.00. Tested, $1.25.

Bees by the pound a specialty, One 1-lb. package, $1.25; one 2 lb., $2 25; large lots less, also nuclei and colonies. Ready March 15th. Booking orders now. Circular free.

J. E. Wing, 155 Schiele Ave, San Jose, Calif.

PHELPS' Golden Italian Queens combine the qualities you want. They are great honey gatherers, beautiful and gentle. Mated, $1.00; six, $5.00; Tested, $3.00; Breeders, $5.00 and $10. C. W. Phelps & Son,

3 Wilcox St., Binghamton, N. Y.

TELL several thousand people what you have for sale with a few words in this department.

GOLDEN QUEENS that produce Golden Workers of the brightest kind. I will challenge the world on my Goldens and their honey-getting qualities. Price, $1.00 each; Tested, $2.00: Breeders, $5.00 and $10.00. 2Atf

J. B. Brockwell, Barnetts, Va.

GOLDEN Italian queens of the quality you need. Bred strictly to produce Golden bees that get the honey. Satisfaction guaranteed Untested. one, 75c; dozen, $8.25; 50. $32.50: 100, $60 Delivery after March 25. Bees by the pound nuclei or full colony. L. J. Pfeiffer, Motor Rt. A, Los Gatos, Calif.

FOR SALE-Three-band Italian bees and queens. Three-frame nuclei with this year's rearing queen, $3.00; without queen, $2.75. Three pounds of bees. $3 25. Young queens, 75c each. Our bees and queens last year gave general satisfaction, and this year we are in position to give stronger nuclei with a greater percent of brood than we did last year. If it is a bargain you are looking for send your order this way. Send your orders now and money when you want them shipped. Can begin shipping April 15. Bees are all in standard hives, Hoffman frames wired and full sheets of foundation. We guarantee bees to be free from disease. The following is an extract from one of our many satisfied customers: "Today, Aug. 16. I hived the second large swarm from the colony I started from a 3-frame nucleus I bought from you in June, and have about 40 pounds of surplus honey in hive." It pays to keep well bred stock whether it is cattle or bees. Name furnished on application.

The Hyde Bee Co., Floresville, Tex.

No. 1 white comb. $3.50 per case; No. 2, $3.00. No. I fall comb. $3.00; No. 2, $2.50; 24 sections to case. In six case lots 10 percent discount. H. G. Quirin, Bellevue, Ohio.

FOR SALE-Cedar or pine dovetailed hives, also full line of supplies including Dadant's foundation. Write for catalog.

A. E. Burdick, Sunnyside. Wash. BEE-KEEPER, let us send our catalog of hives, smokers, foundation, veils, etc. They are nice and cheap. White Mfg. Co., 4Atf Paris, Tex. GOOD second-hand 60-lb. cans, 2 cans to the case, 30c per case, in lots of 10 cases or less. In lots of 25 cases or more, 25c per case. These prices are f. o. b. Cincinnati. C. H. W. Weber & Co., 2146-48 Central Ave., Cincinnati, Ohio.

WANTED-We often have inquiries for old bee books and Bee Journals, and will be glad to buy and sell these for our patrons. Let us know if we can do something for you along this line. Address,

American Bee Journal, Hamilton, 111.

FOR SALE-50 new 10-frame hives with metal covers complete with frames nailed and wired at $1.75 each; in lots of 25 or more at $1.50 each; also 50 10-frame supers nailed and wired; hive and supers painted two coats at 60c each; for the supers in lots of M. C. Silsbee Co.. 25 or more, soc each. P. O. Cohocton, R. F.D. 3. Haskinsville, N. Y.

'DAD" Townsend and his two sons are simply honey producers, the same as most of you are, nothing more. The boys produce the honey and "Dad" will tell you how they do it from month to month in The Domestic Beekeeper." Send 25c in stamps and read "The Domestic Beekeeper " the first half of 1917 and see how the crop is produced. Address," The Domestic Beekeeper," Northstar, Michigan.

SITUATIONS.

WORK wanted in apiary in southwest States: some experience as beekeeper. Mrs. O. A. Peterson, Rt. 8, Owatonna, Minn.

HONEY AND BEESWAX

CHICAGO, Jan. 18.-Comb honey is begin. ning to move a little more freely than for the past 30 days, and it may be that we will clean up yet to a greater extent than was the expectations 60 days ago. Prices are, if anything, weaker.

Best grades of white are bringing 14C per pound with an occasional small lot at 150 per pound. Amber grades are from 1@2c per pound less. Extracted remains steady at from 9@roc per pound for the best grades of white with ambers at 7@8c per pound. Light ambers, good flavor, at 9c per pound. Beeswax is ranging at from 30@32c per pound. R. A BURNETT & CO.

SAN ANTONIO, Jan. 15.-There is little or no honey offered in quantities for shipment from Texas at this time. Nearly all surplus in hands of producers has been marketed. Extracted, according to color and flavor is bringing 8@10c in wholesale markets. Beeswax is very firm. We are paying 27c cash and 30c exchange. SOUTHWESTERN BEE CO.

KANSAS CITY, Mo., Jan. 18. The honey market is slow, about $2 85 being the top price for fancy white comb honey down to $2.50 for No 2. On account of the raise in the local freight rates, the consumption of honey has been curtailed considerably, but we understand that the railroads will adjust these rates after the first of the year and we believe there will then be a better demand for comb honey. Extracted as firm at 72@9c a pound, and No. 1 beeswax is selling at 25c a pound.

C. C. CLEMONS PRODUCE COMPANY. CHICAGO Jan. 19.-The honey market is very quiet and we are very much surprised for the reason that it is the cheapest commodity on the market. We have over two carloads of comb honey on hand. We have already sold three carloads up to date, but it looks as though we are going to have a better demand after the first of the year We are selling 24 section cases for $2 75 to $3.00, extra heavy weights glass fronts $3.25. Extracted honey is in light supply and the demand is very active, selling o@roc.

Beeswax ranges from 27@32c, according to quality and brightness. We are advertising the honey liberally in the different ways in order to create a bigger demand. Let us all work as best we can. D. J. COYNE.

DENVER, Colo., Jan. 18.-The demand for comb honey in carload lots is improving. We are quoting the following jobbing prices;

Comb honey, fancy white, $2.84; No. I white $2.70; No. 2, $2,57; per pound of 24 sections. Extracted, white, per pound, 9@9c; light amber, 8%@oc per pound, we are always in the market for beeswax; for clean yellow wax we are paying 30c per pound in cash and 32c in trade, delivered here in Denver. THE COLO. HONEY PRODUCERS' Ass'n. F. Rauchfuss, Magr.

THE CAMPBELL SYSTEM OF SOIL CULTURE

Everybody knows Campbell, the father of dry farming. Everybody knows that he started this great movement for Scientific Farming that is changing the desert into a garden. But everybody does not know that there is a great school, the

CAMPBELL CORRESPONDENCE SCHOOL OF SOIL CULTURE

where the Campbell System of Scientific Soil Tillage and Crop Growing are taught by mail, where a thorough knowledge of Scientific Agriculture can be secured without leaving home, at a very small expense. If you are a farmer or expect to be a farmer, send for the Campbell literature, Campbell's Scientific Farmer, the Campbell manuals, and a catalog of the Campbell Correspondence School. Sample copy and catalog free. Address,

CAMPBELL CORRESPONDENCE SCHOOL

EASTERN BEEKEEPERS

This is the time of year you should get your supplies and put them together. You not only have them ready when needed, but you also get the discount.

Our catalog of everything a beekeeper uses will be mailed free upon request. Let One us quote you. pound round flint glass honey jars $5.00 a gross.

I. J. STRINGHAM

105 Park Place, N. Y.

APIARIES: Glen Cove, L. I.