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here and there in a direction pretty con- cludes the spires and towers of Montreal, sistently from the north west to the south- one hundred miles distant. Directly beeast. But the eye of the layman will not neath, and between the first and second readily find or recognize them.
chins, lies the Lake of the Clouds; lower From the Chin the spectator has one of down, the dark recesses of the Smuggler's the most comprehensive, variegated, and Notch; and across this, the Sterling Mount
ains. Moving to the east, the eye falls first upon a succession of dark and heavy ridges, thickly wooded, giving and receiving shadows in
ROCK OF TERROR.
beautiful views to be found in all New England. Toward the west, the eye, starting from the base of the mountain, runs over the Winooski Valley, threaded by roads and endless variety; farther away, the valley streams, and dotted with countless white of the Connecticut; and beyond, the White villages; takes in Lake Champlain, which Mountains. Mount Washington itself on a clear day can be seen for nearly its can sometimes be seen, though indistinctentire length; and is arrested only by ly. The picture is completed by Stowe the Adirondacks in the remote horizon. and its neighbors, nestling in the rich On the north, the outlook is even more valley, and directly south the rival peak extensive, and at rare intervals, under of Camel's Hump and the main chain of peculiarly favorable conditions, even in- | the Green Mountains. Such is, in general, the scope of the view afforded from Mount Mansfield is, of course, inferior to the summit of Mount Mansfield. The Mount Washington. Its charms are of countless details which give it grace, pic- a more modest nature. But it has, neverturesqueness, and value can not even be theless, peculiar advantages of its own, enumerated, but must be left with the which will not escape the eye of discernassurance that not one which the imagi- ing visitors, and which to a large class of nation could crave will be found wanting persons will recommend it even above the by the most exacting lover of nature. White Mountains. One of these is the
The neighborhood of Stowe affords a singular extent and freedom of the view multitude of other charming resorts, some which may be had from its summit. Inof which must be at least mentioned. One stead of being only one of a vast army of of these is the Smuggler's Notch, a nar- peaks, and distinguished from its comrades row pass between Mount Mansfield and the merely by a slight superiority in height, Sterling Mountain. It is supposed to have it is more like an isolated structure rising been used in former times by smugglers, out of a surrounding plain. In at least two as it is an easy and convenient connection directions, east and west, the landscape is between western and eastern Vermont, unobstructed for a hundred miles. The and a link in the chain of communication country lies spread out in a vast plateau, between Montreal and Boston, once an beginning at the very base of the mountimportant thoroughfare for contraband ain, and enlivened by every element which traffic. At the summit of the pass there belongs to a complete picture. The landis a deserted inn, the Notch House. The scape itself is therefore an ample reward local guide-book says it affords accommo- for the toil and expense of the visit. But dation for man and beast; and this is true, there is a further felicity in the exemption for if the visitor brings with him sand- of the real lover of nature from the intruwiches for the man and oats for the beast, sion of unsympathetic Philistines. Unthey can be eaten in the ruins of the edi- fortunately no part of the world in these fice. Otherwise a common famine will days of rapid and cheap travel is absobe the result. A good road following lutely free from the shoddyite, the cockthe course of a noble trout stream ends ney, and the snob; but Mount Mansfield only at the Notch House, and the source as a resort is in this respect at least comof the stream, the " Mammoth Spring," paratively favored. It is little frequentwhich is not improperly named. Beyond ed by “fashionable" people, and even less the house a foot-path leads through a suc- so by that still lower class who pursue cession of mighty bowlders which have and imitate fashionable people. Serious, fallen from the cliffs above, under abrupt thoughtful, and appreciative persons form precipices which stretch up on either side the larger part of its summer patrons. to appalling heights, through damp ra- They who spend there one season generalvines where the ferns grow in fantastic ly spend also the next and the next; aeluxuriance and beauty, finally issues at quaintances are renewed from year to the western mouth of the pass, and then year; and in this way Mount Mansfield is descends swiftly to the valley. It is cus- gradually enrolling a considerable band tomary in visiting the Notch to include of faithful, zealous, and devout disciples. also Bingham's Falls, named after an eminent citizen of Stowe, who has done much The scene changes now abruptly to anto make the region accessible and agree other part of Vermont, and to other ele. able to tourists. They are composed of a ments of interest and attraction. Our series of chásms worn in the solid rock. route lies diagonally across the State,
Other attractions are Moss Glen Cas- from the Alps to the Apennines; from cade, only four miles from Stowe, in Mont Blanc to Carrara; from a region Worcester Mountains; Gold Brook, a fa- newly settled and still full of a wild beauvorite drive; Morrisville Falls and John- ty and vigor to a region rich in colonial son Falls, somewhat more distant; and and Revolutionary traditions, and throbvarious other choice rural nooks which bing with a varied and active industry. will well repay a visit. The roads are, The history of southwestern Vermont for mountain roads, uniformly good, and goes back to a time when, strictly speakladies unaccompanied ride in confidence ing, there was no Vermont; when there and safety all over the country.
was a New Hampshire and a New York, For loftiness, grandeur, and majesty, but when it was uncertain to which of
the two the valley of Otter Creek belong- this border warfare are given in Miss Heed. The settlers in the disputed tract hat-menway's excellent Vermont Gazetteer, ed, indeed, the “Yorkers.” The bailiffs and in various productions, poetical and of the western tyrant found no little diffi- unpoetical, of home talent. Not even the culty, in performing their duties; and if outbreak of the Revolution wholly allaythe local chronicles are veracious, the ed this fierce hostility. There exists, for sturdy villagers now and then tied one of instance, the record of a meeting of delethem to a tree and, whip in hand, taught gates from “the towns on the west side of him the error of his ways. Incidents in the Green Mountains," held September 25, 1776, in Dorset, at the house of Deacon ceeding northward, gradually widens out Cephas Kent, a leading patriot, and an- into a spacious and fertile plain, lying becestor of many eminent men, Chancellor tween the main line of the Green MountKent being one. There were present ains and Lake Champlain. Colonel Seth Warner, the Revolutionary The first of the towns just named, Manhero, several Allens, and representatives chester, is, in respect to outward beauty of the Chittendens, Morgans, Fays, Saf- and to popularity as a summer resort, fords, Robinsons, and Marshes, all historic easily superior to all the others. It lies families of Vermont. The tone of the as- on a high plateau formed by a long, low sembly may be learned from the resolu- spur of Mount Equinox; has one broad tions which were adopted. They affirm street, luxuriantly shaded; is calm, decothat the people of that section were tired rous, and soothing; and being well proof the “tyranny of New York toward the vided with hotels, is favorably known to New Hampshire Grants”; that, for geo- the annual fugitives from New York and graphical reasons, they could not well Boston. The ascent of Equinox is easily co-operate with New York in the war of made, and the vicinity affords an abunIndependence; and that they were deter- dance of delightful excursions. mined, in their participation in the com- One of these is, for example, to Dorset mon cause, to recognize only the superi- Mountain. It should first be explained, ority of the Continental Congress. In however, that the term Green Mountains virtue of this, and a still higher authori- is applied only to the range east of the ty, Ethan Allen demanded and obtained valley, that on the west being known as the surrender of Fort Ticonderoga. On the Taconic Mountains. Between the two this basis the Vermonters fought the bat- chains there are also some striking differtle of Bennington, and thus prepared the ences. The Taconic Mountains are highway for the surrender of Burgoyne him- er, bolder, and more imposing. The waself. Every town and hamlet throughout ter which flows down from them is much the region has its own proud Revolution- harder than that from the east. They are ary legends, its own noble list of martyrs, also inuch richer in natural deposits, its own heroes. Take Dorset again. The yielding marble, slate, and a superior champion of Revolutionary Dorset is a quality of the ordinary building limevaliant citizen who, aided by one ally, stone. Mount Equinox is one of the captured at Bennington seven prisoners, peaks in the Taconic range. Dorset one of them a colonel, and brought them Mountain, five miles farther north, is ansafely off the field. It is evident that other, and the one at which Otter Valley such a people would not submit to the au- properly begins. thority even of New York if it were un- I have adhered to the older name, Dorjust and distasteful. By their efforts they set Mountain, although an attempt bas won, in fact, a double independence--first been made to provide another, more amtheir independence, with the other colo-bitious, more sonorous, but not more honnies, from England, and then their in- orable or dignified. This upstart term is dependence as a State in the Union of Mount Æolus, and the author of the unStates.
happy innovation is Professor Charles H. In the neighborhood of Dorset arise two Hitchcock, who in 1861 visited the region streams, which, after this single early with a class of students from Amherst Colmeeting, turn their backs rudely upon lege. Dr. Hitchcock gave the following each other, and thenceforth flow in op- explanation of the phenomenal absence posite directions. The Battenkill bears of snow in Dorset Valley: “Æolus, the southward for twenty miles or more, then god of the winds, fled from fallen Greece, strikes westward through the mountains, and took up his abode in the caves and and onward to the Hudson. Otter Creek marble halls of this mountain. When is true throughout to its Vermont alle- this god calls home Boreas, driving begiance. Its course is north, and it finally fore him snow and hail, there comes also empties into Lake Champlain, at Ver- Auster, with warm breath and weeping gennes. The valley through which the showers, and the frost-work volute and two flow is narrowest about the point scroll soon disappear.” The ceremony of where the Battenkill leaves it; obtains its christening was performed. Standing on most striking natural characteristics near a natural platform near the mouth of the Manchester and Dorset, and then, pro- cave, the party broke a bottle of water over
the mountain, the chorus of the winds fur- six wide, and it is said that explorers have nished music, and when this had subsided penetrated forty or fifty rods without finda poem was read, of which the following ing any end. stanza is a sample:
If Dorset Mountain is little favored by “ Then blow, ye winds, ye breezes all,
snow, it has plenty of snowy marble. Obey your king's command;
Viewed from the east, the whole hill-side He sits in this grand marble hall;
seems to be ridged and furrowed Ye are his servant band."
with quarries, and the vast accumu
lations of débris tell the Thus Dorset Mountain became Mount Æo
tale of years of induslus; for the new term has obtained some
trious burrowing in the little currency, and has the authority even
earth. of print.
The Dorset quarries The cave to which allusion has been were the earliest to be discovered and made is no insignificant affair. It is com- worked in Vermont, and their products posed of a succession of rooms, one of are still, in respect to quality, among the which is eighty-six feet long and thirty- best. The first quarry was opened in 1785,