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zation. Beyond here all is primitive, the poorer farmers take revenge on society idyllic, Arcadian; at Waterbury the con- for inequalities that are really due to their. tentious hackman still survives. But it is own idleness and improvidence. The a mild form of contention, sobered appar- Vermont farmer works, saves, keeps clear ently and rendered decorous by the clear of mortgages, and—is polite. air, or the solemn mountains, or the grave At a little village where we stopped to religious tone of a Vermont village. We water the horses a Green Mountain boy had missed the stage, and the runners for of some seventy summers, wrinkled and several livery-stables offered to provide browned, but with flexible muscles in his special transportation. Their rivalry, gaunt frame and a smart twinkle in his though really keen, was suppressed into a eyes, entertained the passengers with some sympathetic desire to furnish the traveller conversation. the most comfortable, the swiftest, and “Goin' up to Stowe?" safest conveyance; and from this desire "Yes." every low, mercenary consideration was “Ever been there ?" sternly banished. “Don't take that oth- "No." er fellow's team,” said one of them, in a "Wa'al, our girls about these parts sad tone; “the last time he went over, a they've all gone to the White Mountains." wheel run off, and he nearly killed his "Indeed! That's surprising. There's party.” “That man," retorted the other, such fine scenery right here at home, why brushing a kindly tear out of his eye, do they go to the White Mountains ?"
lost his way last week, and was five hours “Why do they go to the White Mounton the road.” Then a third began, in a ains? Wa'al, they go there because they mild, expostulating voice: “Ladies and git three dollars a week.” gentlemen, I wouldn't go with either of “Oh!" rejoined the coach, hastily, them men.
If you really want to go, I with some embarrassment; “we had not have a team,” etc. Thus the strife of thought of it in that light." these benevolent gentlemen went on. “Yes, sir,” added the veteran, clinching We finally decided to wait for the stage, his argument-."yes, sir, one of my girls and the three rivals walked off together gits three dollars a week, and don't have with an air of pious resignation, humming nothing to do but wash tumblers." And in chorus one of Moody and Sankey's he bowed kindly as the stage moved away. hymns. In some other parts of the world, It seemed fitting to one of our party, a I suppose, a writer who wished to show cynical person, to remark afterward that that the inherent friendship of these men even washing tumblers day after day could survive all brief professional differ- might become monotonous, and exclude ences would say that they repaired to the the opportunities for that æsthetic culture nearest bar and took a drink together. now so much needed by domestic servants. At Waterbury the evening prayer-meeting Still,” he added, “if the newspapers may would seem to be a more fitting place for be trusted, they have the society of Dartthe fraternal reconciliation.
mouth students in the busy season." The stage is ready at last, and the two Let us respect honest toil. Not all Verhours' drive, especially if one has an out- mont girls are drawn to the White Mountside seat, is no unpleasant experience on a ains even by the liberal conditions which July evening. It is the very heart of the are there offered. Enough of them at Green Mountains. The road is good; the least remain to do the service of the Mount hills are neither too prolonged nor too ab- Mansfield House, and to do it well. Neat, rupt. Enticing trout streams shoot across quick, intelligent, obliging, they lose no the way or ripple along its side. Mount caste by earning their way; in winter they Mansfield and Camel's Hump are seen, are the belles of “society." Brawny now on one hand, now on the other, as we young farmers will find them the best of pursue our sinuous course. The farms wives, and if another war should afflict the are neat, orderly, and apparently prosper-country, their sons will rush to arms not ous, although the oats and wheat seem to less promptly than did their fathers and have a hard battle for life with the rocks brothers twenty years ago. and the sand. The people are plain, but Stowe is a typical Vermont village of cheerful, civil, and obliging. One ob- some one thousand inhabitants. serves little of that outward sullenness by houses are nearly all white, and the white which in some other parts of the country houses nearly all have green shutters,
though slight differences in the styles of In the rear is the Worcester range; south, architecture and a modest discrimination Camel's Hump; west, Mount Mansfield in the choice of flowers and the arrange- itself; and in the intervals, especially toment of flower beds afford a partial satis- ward the northwest, the green valley with faction to the eye. There is a small white its silver streams, its well-stocked farms, church, and its spire, or “steeple," as the its neat farm-houses, with their barns and parishioners call it, shoots ambitiously up- other buildings grouped in little colonies ward into the clear blue air. There is a about them. This is, too, a good point hotel, the Mount Mansfield House, built in from which to begin the work of seeing a 1864, and for some time in charge of a vet- man's face in the profile of Mount Manseran Boston journalist—a spacious build- field. The illustration provides all the ing, with broad verandas and long halls, materials of the problem. The features with vast salons, where the waltz may safe are all there in bold relief-forehead, ly be attempted, and well-disposed lawns, nose, mouth, lips, chin--and the reader across which the croquet balls bound from who fails to catch the resemblance will morning till night, and the harmless mis- never understand why the mountain was siles of tennis make their abrupt flights. called “Mans-field." He will be reduced From “Sunset Hill," a sharp elevation to the false theory that its namesake was back of the hotel, the village resembles a a famous English judge. flock of geese on the wing, the two main The distance from Stowe to the summit streets diverging toward the east and the of the mountain is about nine miles. For west, while the apex, where the leader five miles the route follows the ordinary may be imagined, points timidly toward country road through a pleasant valley: Waterbury on the south. Many other then it breaks off into the mountain, and things may also be seen from Sunset Hill. winds about by easy grades to the top. The carriage road has now been open sev-cupine, it now offers hospitality neither eral years, and the ascent can be made to quadrupeds nor to bipeds. The hedge in any vehicle with the greatest comfort. hogs have attacked the stalls and floor
The way is thickly wooded-along the with ferocity and persistence, and have lower part with beech, maple, birch, and created vast intervals in the most solid even oak, which, however, gradually dis- partitions. The little animals are abunappear, until the evergreen varieties alone dant all over the mountain, and many remain, and these seem ill satisfied with wild stories are told of their exploits. A their existence. Shade is therefore abun- horse belonging to the hotel was attacked dant, and the sun's rays are little felt. by one, said John, the driver, and they But this is at the cost of another form of afterward pulled seven hundred quills out enjoyment. Short of the summit itself of the poor beast; and if John had been no satisfactory view is obtained, with per- coining a story he would not have been so haps a partial exception in favor of the recklessly exact. Half-way House. This seems once to Half a mile before the summit is reachhave been a habitable house, at least for ed the woods open, and the carriage climbs horses; though, thanks to the fretful por- a stiff rocky ledge for the rest of the way.
The Nose towers up directly above us, and the other features stretch away in the distance, massive, solemn, forbidding.
The description of the mountain and its views may properly be prefaced by a few useful facts and figures. The highest point, the Chin, is 4359 feet above sea-level, and 3670 above the village of Stowe. The Nose, the next peak, is 340 feet lower; the Forehead, 160 feet below the Nose.
From the Nose to the Chin-the extreme on the west. The northern side is nearly points of ordinary exploration—the dis- perpendicular; and although the process tance is about one and a half miles. The which shaped it began thousands of years mountain has long been accessible to ad- ago, it has not yet ceased. From time to venturous tourists, but it is only within time immense masses of rock detach themthe last twenty years, or since the open- selves and plunge into the abyss below, ing of the Mount Mansfield House, that where they still lie heaped upon one anthey have come in any number or regu- other in wild disorder. One of these terlarly. The completion of the carriage rible bowlders was formerly poised on the road to the summit brought, of course, a very end of the Nose, almost without vislarge increase of both transient and per- ible means of support. It was supposed manent guests.
that it could be pried loose by hand, but We can now examine the face of the repeated attempts led only to disappointgiant as calmly and fearlessly as the Lil- ment. One day in 1859, however, it startliputians walked about over the prostrate ed voluntarily, and rolled down the preGulliver.
cipice, shaking the mountain like an earthTo reach the point of the Nose involves quake, and at the bottom bursting into a a sharp though short climb, facilitated by thousand fragments. A party of men and a flight of rude steps which have been women had been on the rock but half an formed by the ledges of the rock. The hour before it fell, and others had been old Latin line must be reversed before it strolling about the foot of the cliff where can be applied to the Nose. The ascent it lodged. is safe and not difficult, but the descente, The Summit House is situated at the hic labor, hoc opus est. The stone is as foot of the Nose, on the eastward slope of smooth and slippery as ice; and a single the ridge. It is a frame building of two false step would precipitate one two hun- stories, with ample balconies, comfortadred feet or more to the bottom. This is ble rooms, and a satisfactory cuisine. Its manager at the time of our visit was De- only pasture, except such browsing as she mis, a French Canadian, who had been might get among the evergreens and ferns; so long on the mountain that he could but she seemed happy, and in the winter, hardly walk on level ground. He was, when brought down to the village, she reof course, well stocked with stories, most turned invariably to the summit as often of them based on personal experience. as she could escape. Thunder-storms on the summit are not For the walk to the Chin some little infrequent, but Demis remembered one time is necessary, though the rise is gradin particular which broke forth without ual and not troublesome. The ridge of any warning on a bright sunny day. He the mountain is narrow and nearly bare, was sitting in the “parlor," when he saw a few dwarfish cedars, and a carpet of a flash, and before he knew it the room moss softer and richer than the finest was full of lightning, and he was up to tapestry of Smyrna, being the only forms his knees in the electric fluid. “I was of vegetable life. By a brisk walk the half stunted to death," added the veteran visitor can in fifteen minutes reach the Gaul, somewhat obscurely. And in proof Lips. These are mere accumulations of of his story he showed us where the same great bowlders, deposited there by volcanbolt had struck the end of the Nose, leav- ic or glacial movements, and not specially ing a long scar, brightly polished as by interesting, except, perhaps, the so-called some mechanical instrument. Demis's “Rock of Terror," which, poised precarionly permanent companions on the mount- ously on its apex, seems ready on slight ain were five cats, a few chickens, and provocation to roll down, and the caves, Dolly the cow. Dolly had lived nine years which are formed by series of overlying in this lofty region. Her predecessor was bowlders, though one of them is of considthere seventeen years. An artificial grass- erable depth. Geologists have found eviplot, built up much as the peasants on the dence for the glacial theory in scars or Rhine create soil for vineyards, was her scratches made on the surface of the rocks