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mise and cotton petticoat, with her hair the marvels of the town, notably a large twisted closely around the top of her and fine old interior, with quaint bunks head. The pristine innocence of the oper- and buffet, and a four-hours-old baby ation disarmed our modest remonstrances, packed away in a box like so much marand we found ourselves accepting the sit- ket stuff.
uation as a matter of course. Nothing The long afternoon was ended, the cows would do after that but we must eat and were milked, and the village gossips were drink, and shortly milk and beer, eggs all busy in the shadows of the houses, but and bread, were set before us. Then the no sound of music was heard, and no stout daughter was sent to pilot us to see preparations for the festival were visible. Every one whom we interviewed | veneration, and many are the traditions on the subject “allowed” that there might of the historical dramas enacted on its be a dance, but no one knew anything shores. Old women say that its depth is definite about it. We haunted the cross- to be ineasured by its length. If their roads where the May-pole stood, until the other tales are as accurate as this, the lake grew cool and purple in the quiet grain of truth in them may be measured light, and then went to the lake-side land- by the ratio of about seven hundred feet ing, hoping, but scarcely expecting, to find to twenty-five miles. There is very little some one willing to ferry us over to the navigation on the lake except the daily inn three miles or more across the lake. steamers, which carry freight and passenNotwithstanding the lateness of the hour, gers, and rare clumsy sloops, which spread the little row-boats, full of girls and chil- a timid show of canvas.
For a large part dren, plied along the water's edge. Two of its extent the surface is unbroken by islpretty boat-girls of perhaps seventeen ands or rocks, but toward the northern years, with hair as pale yellow as the flax extremity, where there are great patches they spin in the winter, and deep ruddy of cultivated land on the hill-sides, there cheeks, volunteered to carry us to Karls- are clusters of little wooded islets and vik, and we took our places in the stern pleasant little bays with fertile meadows of the rude craft, feeling a little ungallant bounding them. Here also numerous at not insisting upon taking the oars our villages cluster by the lake-side, and ocselves. But the picture of these two lithe, casionally a modern villa in the Renaishealthy creatures easily sending the heavy sance French or Italian style reflects its boat through the water was too agreeable ugliness in the water. to be destroyed, and we let them pull on, The two parishes of Mora and Orsa corsinging, as they stopped to rest, the follow- respond at the northern extremity of the ing melody:
lake to the parishes of Rättvik and Leksand on the south. Curiously enough, although a half-day's journey from a railway, the former parishes are the much more advanced in modern civilization, at least as far as external evidences go. As we approached in the steamer, the wake of a little steam-yacht puffing around the bay splashed water over the gunwale of half a dozen laden church boats on their way home to a distant village from the missionary meeting in the Mora church. A dory of the pattern of two centuries ago rubbed its tarry sides against the white waist of a trim sailing yacht flying a Swedish flag as large as its mainsail.
Mora seen from the water, dominated as it is by the great brick church and the characteristic bell tower behind it, is far more picturesque than on nearer examination. Ashore, the steamboat wharves,
with piles of wood corded ready for the 6 27
boilers, the wooden houses half overhanging the water, the little red school-house
marred by the school-boy hieroglyphics, The sandy roads through the spruce and the general abundance of logs, and many pine forests on the shores of Siljan Lake evidences of skillful use of the axe, imare as dreary and monotonous as all simi- press one quite the same as a village in lar highways are. The lake itself closely one of the inlets on the Maine coast. The resembles in character Moosehead Lake, inn, a bald, spacious building, with awnin Maine, the hill-sides to the water's edge ing-shaded seats on the ragged lawn bebeing covered for a large extent with an fore it, and a general air of desolation and unbroken forest. The peasants regard hard usage, does not disturb, but rather the lake with a sentiment approaching completes this illusion, especially when it
is found that a strict prohibitory law is in quirement that in certain cases the cusforce in the parish. We seemed very tomer shall eat before he drinks, or a limnear home when the landlord approached itation in the amount of liquor to be sold us on our arrival, and after preliminary to one person. But wine, beer, and porgreetings led us with an impressive show ter are usually not included in these reof mystery up to a closet door which bore strictions; and though private stills are unmistakable signs of frequent and not prohibited, private drinking is not contoo delicate handling. Opening the door he indicated that a collection of a dozen flysoiled bottles and a score of sticky glasses standing on a newspaper - covered shelf were at our disposal. We saw him after this go down to the piazza, tip his chair back against the wall, and take a chew of tobacco in the most stagy American fashion.
Very stringent liquor laws have been in force in Sweden as well as Norway for many years.
With a few exceptions, the provisions of the law correspond exactly to those in force in some of the New England States. Parishes may prohibit the sale of spirits entirely, or according to the vote of the people limit its sale to one or two establishments, which are required to pay either a high fixed license, or to turn in to the public treasury all profits over five per cent. This last is the system which prevails in many of the Swedish towns, and particularly in the large cities, under the name of the Göteborg, or Gothenburg system, so called from having been first tried in the town of that name. The plan consists essentially in the letting out of the liquor stores by the local authorities, trolled. The Gothenburg system does not, usually to a company, which undertakes therefore, prevent or abolish the evil; but to pay over all proceeds to the authorities, it is nevertheless a wholesome check upon after deducting the five per cent. interest intemperance. The parishes around Silfor itself. The special purpose of the jan Lake have suffered greatly in past Gothenburg system is to take away from times from the prevalence of intoxication, the retail liquor seller all temptation to and in no one of them is a liberal license “ make custom” by encouraging drunken- system in vogue. ness; but there seems to be some question As may have been gathered from prewhether the plan works as well as it is ex- ceding pages, the chief recreation and enpected to, even when combined with such tertainment of the Dalecarlians is churchfurther restrictive regulations as the re- going. Open-air meetings and parish
MORA BELL TOWER.
suade him to substitute for it cats or some other mild nocturnal noise. So we rallied out at midnight and watched for him. We had not the assistance and cover of darkness, so we decided to ambush the enemy, and consequently took our posts behind the little shanties which serve for booths in fair-time. As he drew near, tooting the instrument of torture, we saw as fine a specimen of a man as could be imagined, tall, broad-shouldered, muscular, and straight as a grenadier. He wore a white woollen, full-skirted coat, and small-clothes like the peasants of the time of Louis XIV. In his right hand he carried the torture bugle, and in his left he had a huge naked sword at least four feet long. We had planned to move out at his approach, and imagined an easy victory over such a specimen of watchman as we had hitherto seen.
I scarcely need add that we suffered him to distend his lungs and give his ear-splitting blasts quite uninterruptedly. Mora and Orsa boast of the size and vigor of their men. We can now forgive them this boast.
The country around the northern part of Siljan Lake is famous as the scene of many notable events in Swedish history. One of the most romantic episodes in the life of Gustavus Vasa occurred in the lit
tle village of Tomtgärden, a short walk NIGHT-WATCHMAN.
from the town of Mora. Here the hero
took refuge from his Danish pursuers in excursions are quite as popular as in any the house of a farmer. The wife was enother Protestant country, and while we gaged in brewing beer when the Danish were at Mora nearly every day brought horsemen appeared in sight, so she hastily forth either a missionary meeting, a pic- concealed the fugitive in the cellar, and nic prayer - meeting, or a conference of covered up the trap-door by placing the ministers. Steamer loads of black-coated heavy beer vat over it. Even the ugly pastors, accompanied by hundreds of pea- memorial building in style of railway arsant women in bright-colored costumes, chitecture does not prevent the patriotic landed at the wharf, and turned the day Swedes from reverencing this spot. The into a religious festival. Autre pays au- building serves to display three historical tres moeurs. It would astonish the con pictures--one of them a representation of gregation in a New England village to see Gustavus and the farmer's wife, by J. F. the pastor, fat and dignified, wrestling Höckert; the second a picture painted by with the cork of a beer bottle in a crowd- E. Berg of the Ornäs house, in Southern ed dining-room, while his upper lip gave Dalecarlia, where a similar event took unmistakable evidence of devotion to place; and the third a large Norwegian snuff.
landscape of historical interest in the life In Mora the summer visitor has not of Gustavus Vasa, painted by the late King only to court sleep in the bright sunlight, Charles XV., his eighteenth successor. but an unearthly blast from the horn of Dalecarlia was formerly famous for its the night-watchman disturbs the stranger manufactures; and clocks, bells, furniture, at every half-hour from ten o'clock until and various other articles were made by six. Four of us in the hotel arranged a the peasants in their own houses. With scheme to forcibly corral the disturber of the exception of a rare clock-maker, who the peace, and either spoil his horn or per- devotes himself now solely to repairing,
no trace of these domestic manufactories baskets of flexible chips with great skill. now exists. The old people sadly date A two-quart basket with a cover sells as their poverty to the introduction of Ger- low as eight öre-less than two cents. man machine-made wares, and the conse- Birch bark furnishes material for many quent cessation of the demand for articles articles which are a specialty of Dalecar
of hand-workmanship. For the simpler | lian production. Cut in narrow strips, it pieces of household utility the peasants are is woven into mats, saddle-bags, and slipstill considered master-workmen. They pers; covered with intricate ornamentafashion light and finely ornamented drink- tion, it is bent to form snuff-boxes and ing mugs out of soft wood, and weave other small cases. Spinning, weaving,
Vol. LXVII.–No. 401.-43