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which has fed a half-dozen generations. I parish fashion requires, and perhaps durThe only literature in sight is a bundle of ing the week he dresses but little different Swedish newspapers from far-off Minne from any other working-man. Thus desota, carefully preserved, and read again generacy of the distinctive costume gradand again.

ually creeps in, and probably in another The treasure of the farm is kept out generation the Klädekammare will exist of sight in the attic rooms, scrupulously no more. guarded from the attacks of insects and the Before the extensive use of steamboats hands of mischievous children. This trea on the waterways around Stockholm the sure is the wardrobe. No farmer so poor Dalecarlian girls were accustomed to come but has his Klädekammare, in which is to the capital in great numbers each seagathered all the store of linen and woollen son to row the passenger boats from point cloth, the product of feminine industry, the to point in the neighborhood of the city. holiday garments of summer and winter, This custom still exists to some extent, and the wheels and reels and implements for the visitor may be rowed by a buxom peadomestic manufacture of textiles. This sant girl to an island restaurant, or across room is as sacred as a sanctuary. There an arm of the lake. The girls have lost is the odor of fresh linen and the fragrance none of the moral independence and the of dried leaves as the door is opened. The remarkable physical strength which have floor is as clean as scrubbing can make it; since the beginning of Swedish history no trace of fly or spider is seen on the low distinguished their ancestors. In the large window which dimly lights the room. cities they are found to-day mixing mor Along the rafters are nailed cords or slen- tar, carrying burdens, and rowing boats der birch poles, and on these rows of snow- quite as easily as the men, and quite as white chemises are arranged methodically acceptably to the employers. The most faalong, graduated in size. Below these mous boatwomen are the girls of the parbodices show in ranks of blazing red, and ish of Rättvik, whither we bad rambled in the heavy black petticoats hang against the search of the mythical midsummer the wall. Clusters of beautifully starched dance. caps fill the corners, and regiments of One Sunday morning we watched the shoes stand all along the floor under the people as they landed from the church eaves. On the other side are the men's boats, and drew them up on the shore clothes, and the wonderful sheep-skin gar- like the Vikings of old. During the long ments for winter use, the wool as white church service we hid ourselves away in a as swan's-down, and the hide as soft as high-backed pew, where we thought we chamois. The clumsy great-coats of the should be unobserved at our sketching. men, the sheep-skin petticoats of the wo- We carelessly left a vacant pew between men, and the numerous fleecy dresses of us and the wall, and soon we had an eathe children are carefully hung in rows, ger spectator looking over our shoulder, with all wrinkles rubbed out, and no spot and only sitting down when he took out or stain to mar the creamy surface of the his snuff-box and stowed a great pinch indressed hide. It is with no small degree side his under lip. We attempted to hide of pride that the farmer's wife displays our work from his eye under the very shalthese treasures, the accumulation of many low pretense of attention to the prayeryears, and the result of many a long win- book, but he whispered in a hoarse stage ter's patient work at spinning-wheel and tone, “Don't mind me; I've seen a good loom. When Sunday comes the toil- deal of this thing before." He then in stained garments are laid aside, and the stalled himself as our protector, and kept sweet, fresh holiday costume is put on for all others out of the pew beside or behind the day. But the farmer's wife, who on us. When, before the sermon, the pastor Sunday stands as prim and stiff in her walked down the aisle, our friend gave a starched linen as the figures in old por- timely caution for us to hide our books traits, wears at her every-day work the and look innocent. The drone of the ser. simple costume of rough homespun, or the mon and the heat of the day had their natdress which years before her mother used wal consequences, and if the contributo wear to church. Her husband finds at tion collectors had not poked a bag on the his work in the fields the modern costume end of a long pole under the noses of the cheaper and more comfortable than the sleepers occasionally, the hard breathing complicated and formal dress which the might have rivalled the cries of the babies.

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When the service was over we trans- to fill the second one. It was quite as elaslated to our mentor the information that tic as an American horse-car. When it was was destroying our peace of mind, and he filled overfull, a half-dozen laggards came assured us with perfect calmness that in down to the shore and calmly piled themthe village of Vikarby across the lake selves in. This addition to the freight apthere would be a dance that very night. parently made no difference at all. We He furthermore went on to detail the took courage from this incident and rebeauties of the festival, and to dilate so solved to try it ourselves. The third and eloquently on the attractiveness of the last boat was rapidly filled up, and we peasant girls that we were weak enough, boldly went down and asked to be taken to believe him, and were unhappy until to Vikarby. A place was rapidly made we found a means of conveyance to that for us in the bow- a small place, but still same village. It was distant across the as much as anybody had—and off we went. lake perhaps two miles and a half, and The moment we were clear of the shore quite four times as far away by the dusty the forty oars struck the water together, hilly road. The church boats had come and began the stroke in perfect rhythm. overloaded to the water's edge, and no The immense weight of the people caused small boats were to be had. We had just the frail craft to quiver and settle, and for made up our minds to walk, encouraged a moment it almost seemed as if she must in this enterprise the sight of great sink lower.

But with the first strong crew of pretty girls putting off in one of strokes she felt alive and leaped forward, the Vikarby boats, when the people began swelling her sides like some heavy-breathing monster. The rival boats of the vil- who took the opportunity at every recovlage had a little the start of us, and our ery of the stroke to speak to one another crew was determined to reach the village or to glance into each other's eyes. When as soon as they. The excitement devel- she smiled he threw himself with redouoped rapidly as we darted out into the bled energy on the oar. She on her part deep water of the bay. How the lithe sometimes hid her heated, blushing face oars bent, and how the gunwale creaked in the full sleeves of her outstretched and shivered! The old helmisman kept arms. It was perhaps the only chance his eye on the leading craft, and steered during the week of speaking to one anwith a firm hand, now and then noting other, for the social etiquette of Dalecarlia the progress by a word or gesture of en- forbids the young men to notice the young couragement. Ten thwarts held four row- women in public places, and only coners each, two girls and two men, the latter dones conversation on the sly. This was sitting in the middle and holding the end not the only little pastoral drama on the of the oar. Every space on the gunwale boat, for other plump damsels and musbetween the oars was occupied by a wo- cular youths were becoming intimate as man, the stern held a mass of children they tugged at the same oar.

Truly age and adults packed closely, and even to the and experience had the helm, but young high stem the bow was wedged in solidly love propelled the boat. with men and women. Altogether we On the same thwart with the young counted very nearly a hundred souls. lovers sat a man of middle age with his

The day was very warm, and a bright wife beside him. As he let go the oar to sun threw up a painful reflection from take off his jacket he turned and said, in the water. The girls took off their ker. the best of American: “It's an awfully chiefs and pulled the harder; the men hot day! Don't you think so ?” He had paused one by one to doff their jackets, spent half his life on a Western farm, and and then worked with the more vigor, the had come home to live in comparative ease. perspiration running from their faces. Thrilled by the excitement of the race On the thwart near us sat a young couple we watched the distance between the boats

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face brightened as he answered: “She did live here, but she has gone to Stockholm

now, and won't come back until winter. I shall be well then." And he showed us, as he spoke, a scarred and emaciated leg, explaining that he had

been in bed for eighteen grow smaller and smaller, and as we were months; that the doctor lived nearly twenstern and stern with them we ran upon ty miles away, and had only seen him the shingly beach. Out tumbled crew once or twice since the accident had hapand passengers with the same impulse, pened which shattered his leg. “But," and the boat was instantly housed under he cheerfully assured us, “I am better the long shed.

now, and shall soon be out." Soon two We strolled up through the grain to little girls scarcely as old as the invalid the village, where we were to await the came in and out by the bedside bringing expected festival, and sought along the flowers and a few playthings to amuse rows of log-houses for the home of a him with. Their ruddy, sun-browned faces Dalecarlian girl connected with the Stock- under the quaint pointed caps contrasted holm Society of the Friends of Manual strongly with the pallor of the blonde boy Arts, which we learned in the boat was in as he lay in the sunlight. It was a touchthe village. We were directed to a house ing little genre picture. where brilliant red paint had been plenti- The mother and sister of Greta shortly fully applied on all sides. Knocking at came in, and gave us a hearty welcome. the door we heard at first no response, The former began to make no stranger of but later a faint “Stig in!" Entering us by taking off her Sunday clothes. We the living-room we saw in a wooden box sat and fidgeted, and knew not whether bed under the window the figure of a boy to run away or to stay and affect not to of perhaps sixteen years lying in the sun- notice her. Before we had fairly time to light, with the shadows from the house decide she had stepped out of a couple of plants flickering on the linen.

woollen petticoats, taken off a thick bodplained that he had charge of the house, ice, the pointed cap with two under-caps, but that his mother would soon return. the clumsy conventional shoes and the We asked if Greta lived there. His pale shapeless stockings, and stood in her che

He ex

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