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was a continual struggle between two par- | two the next day, whereupon we preties bitterly hostile to each other to ob- pared another letter to the Earl of Abertain the control, All he could tell me at deen. present was that a person had been ap- On Tuesday, the 15th, punctual to appointed as consul-general; that he would pointment, Mr. Addington received us at leave as soon as possible for the islands, the Foreign Office. I introduced Mr. Brinsand had been instructed in relation to the made as the American who held the conadjustment of the difficulties. He said, tract which had been so misrepresented to further, that the Foreign Office had just the Foreign Office, and who would read it been informed that the King of the Sand- and explain to Mr. Addington the steps wich Islands had granted to an American which had been taken under it. Mr. Adblank assignia which gave him power to dington was evidently taken by surprise dispose of all the lands at the islands. If by my prompt production of the contract such were the case it showed a weakness and its holder, and still more so on seeing on the part of the king which demon- for himself its nature and terms, which strated his unfitness to rule.

were simply to the effect that the king I replied that I would at once deny granted these lands and privileges on conthe truth of any such charge, not from dition that a joint-stock company should my present knowledge of the facts, but be formed, the stock of which should be from my knowledge of the king's charac- offered for sale in England, France, and ter, and that I would pledge myself to the United States, providing that the king's disprove the charge within twelve hours. sovereignty should be guaranteed, and his I then made an urgent appeal through rights amply secured. This, of course, was him to Lord Aberdeen to allow the com- complete disproval of the charge that the missioners to be heard, and to have the king had sold his sovereignty or shown case settled in London, in order that their any partiality to the United States. pending negotiations with other powers Mr. Addington on reading the contract might not be embarrassed. Mr. Adding- and hearing Mr. Brinsmade's report of his ton promised to repeat our conversation action in furtherance of it, expressed his to Lord Aberdeen, and to let us know the satisfaction that the matter had been misdetermination of the government in re- represented. gard to the proposed reference as soon as I followed up this advantage by urging possible.

the equal falseness of the other charges of On my return from this interview I re- national partiality on the part of the king, lated its substance to my fellow-envoys, and stated that the appointment of Dr. and they approved of the views I had Judd, of the American mission, as the urged upon Mr. Addington, that it would king's prime minister, an appointment be for the interest of both nations to have which had been instanced as proof of such the new consul-general begin his career partiality, had, in fact, been made at the unem barrassed by all these old claims suggestion of an Englishman, Sir George which had brought the Hawaiian govern- Simpson. Mr. Addington asked me how ment to the brink of ruin-and agreed it was that the Americans seemed to prewith me that strong effort should be made fer French occupation to that of the Engto have the troubles all settled before he lish., I replied that the Americans did not should leave for his post. Mr. Brins- fear French competition, but that they felt made was justly indignant at the charge that if the English took possession their made against the king in regard to the trade would be ruined. This idea seemed blank assignia of power to sell Hawaiian rather gratifying to British pride. Mr. lands, and laid before me the king's con- Addington requested a copy of the king's tract with Ladd and Co. and all the docu- contract with Ladd and Co., for the satisments relating to the organization of the faction of Lord Aberdeen, and informed Belgian Company under that contract. us that the council was then deliberating They were as complete an answer as I had upon the Sandwich Islands question, and supposed to Lord Aberdeen's charges. I that we should know its decision at as earwrote immediately to Mr. Addington, re-ly a period as possible. questing another interview, and permis- I returned to our rooms, copied the consion to bring with me the American re-tract, and sent it to the Foreign Office the ferred to by the charges. I received a same evening. We felt that the end of prompt reply appointing an interview at our warfare was at hand.

On Wednesday, August 16, we sent an- embassy had, of course, been anticipated other dispatch to the Foreign Office, urging by the overland mail which bore my disin the strongest possible terms that the patches. My own emotions were unutdecision of the government should be terable on again seeing the Hawaiian made there in London, so that its new flag floating over the palace and the shiprepresentative at the islands might enterping. upon his duties with a clean-swept field. On landing, the first news I learned was We thought that Lord Aberdeen would that Admiral Thomas, in command of the by this time be glad to decide the matter English squadron in the Pacific, had hastto get rid of us, and that on receiving ened down immediately on receiving Lord this last dispatch from "St. Paul's Coffee- Paulet's dispatches, and the urgent letters house, St. Paul's Church-yard,” he would of his old friend Mr. Barron from Tepic, exclaim,

and had restored the islands on the 31st “ Hark! from the tombs a doleful sound."

of July, 1843, to the sovereignty of their

rightful king, with imposing ceremonies.* We formally proposed in this letter to Amidst the boom of cannon from all the submit the whole matter to the decision of vessels in the harbor, including the Cathe law advisers of the Crown, confident rysfort, the British flag was lowered, and of British love of fair play.

the Hawaiian colors hoisted on every The same day I received a note from available flag-staff in the city, the British Mr. Addington, appointing an interview landing and saluting them. for the next. The interview was a most Admiral Thomas was, however, too satisfactory one. Our proposal was ac- careful of British interests and his own cepted, and we received from Lord Aber- position to give up the islands except as deen, through the Under Secretary, very pending the decision of the British govsatisfactory assurance that we had made ernment,” and meanwhile took up his resout our case, that the Sandwich Islands idence in Honolulu, ready to seize them had been misrepresented, and that the Brit- again if such should be his orders. Engish government would do it justice. land herself lingered over the negotia

My own share of the work was accom- tions, chiefly to make time to assure herplished. Leaving my associates to receive self that France would not run off with the formal announcement of the govern- the bon morceau if she dropped it. ment's decision, which was rendered in ac- The consul-general appointed by Eng. cordance with its pledges, I caught the land, General Miller, arrived in due time first steamer - Britannia, April 20— to at the islands, and succeeding events amBoston, where I took unto myself a wife, ply proved the wisdom of our desire to and embarked with her for the Sandwich have the questions in dispute settled beIslands, November 12, on the good ship fore his coming. The one point left open Congaree. Our wedding journey" of by the decisions of the Foreign Office took five months at sea, without sight of land, years to settle, roused much ill feeling, I commend to all young married couples and was not finally adjusted according to as the most efficient method of getting ac- the facts, in the opinion of those longest quainted with each other.

conversant with them, though the consulAfter the usual perils and pleasures of general did the best that could be expecta Cape Horn passage, we arrived, April 8, ed of a stranger in his position. off Diamond Head, the whole cost of my Mr. Alexander Simpson retired, after the embassy to the court of St. James and re- failure of his magnificent schemes, into the turn having amounted to $1995 95—in fire- Highlands of Scotland, and there disapwood-an account which would compare peared from public view after writing a quite favorably, I imagine, with those of book of bitter denunciation of the British other royal ambassadors.

government for letting this brilliant prize Neither the king's finances nor my own slip through the fingers into which he had private means justified any display on the drawn it, and, as he said in a letter to the occasion of his ambassador's successful re- London Times, “putting more faith in the turn, but he sent his own double canoe to representations of a Yankee shop-keeper bring my bride and myself on shore, where than in those of a British subject.” we were received with open arms and cordial greeting by the king and all loyal to * See Jarves's History of the Hawaiian Islands, his cause

The news of the success of my Second Edition, p. 183.



N a faded letter lying before me, wich Street, in New York, fifty years ago, the writer says:

"I could wish the Hudson were in better condition for my trip to Catskill. I shall be four or five days in going, but I will start well prepared for the journey."

I wonder what the anxious gentleman of that day would say were he to sit in his own library on this morning, and listen to and observe the changes in his beloved Catskill since that period of green fields and wide - spreading orchards, fine old country estates and farms that stretched down to the very water's edge? Where the Indians grew their corn, and the Duboises and Van Vechtens built their homes, a great arena of summer traffic has developed. Boats and trains are coming and going, the bustle of arrival and departure stirs all the “Point,” animating the village in the way peculiar to American towns near a resort,” and the whole community to a new-comer seems to be on the alert for signs of travel.

the sky shines above a rim of close dark But to the right of this provincial crowd foliage, and the flight of the bird is across and clatter one sees, directly on landing, a a peaceful stretch of land and water. But vista of very fair and quiet country. The this is not the Catskill of Indian romance river curves about the greenest of banks, and one's imagination. One longs to

Vol. LXVII.- No. 400.-33


leave the concentration of the village life, be read as reverently and as awfully as the bustle of the wharves and station be- when their depths echoed Indian voices, hind one, and be up and away to the hills, or their waters carried the Indian's ca. whose everlasting beauty is the back- noe. ground for this picture of activity, thrift, And herein I find the greatest charm and speculative lounging.

of this country. Nothing seems to take I recall my first visit twenty years ago away the fearless beauty of the hill. No to these grand old mountains. It seems intrusion seems to disturb the solemnity only the other day, yet such trips were of the peaks and gorges, the sweetness of then matters of much more calculation the mountain streams, the innumerable as well as duration. We took the night brooks and torrents. boat, and though it was a rather poor af- The Catskill of to-day is a large, active fair, I am afraid, to my childish eyes it place, characterized by the usual appearseemed a floating palace, and the ladies' ance of the American village. A long cabin a mingling of the fascination of the main street with shops and hotels and theatre with the luxuries of real life. The idly speculative loungers, and almost nocabin was presided over by a colored wo-| thing to indicate what the place once was, man, portly and affable, and full of a unless it be in the names which have derather weird sort of anecdote which scended through many generations since charmed me greatly. She impressed me Dutch and colonial and provincial times. as being about as old as people ever were, Around about, in a sort of stately indifbut I presume she was not over fifty. ference to the activity of the place as a And she told me stories of slave times in resort,” are the houses of olden time, the Northern States, which seemed to me belonging to families who have authorized ghastly traditions, I remember, for that Americans in their feeling that pride of peaceful moon-lit country.

race may be consistent with the most simShe had been brought up in the mount- ply republican sentiment. And these old ains, and loved the suggestions of old places give a dignity to the town. He Rip and of the Indian period with a fer- who runs may read their story, since in vor worthy of a larger intelligence than few instances have the original forms she owned, and from her I first heard any been altered. They preserve their Dutch of the romance of the region about which symbols, the heavy cross-beams, the genI am writing

erous fire-places, or the English architectWhen our boat landed we took a large ure of the last century so perfectly that lumbering old coach, which stopped at all their tale is assuredly written in stone and the public houses and various private ones, wood work, and I will be pardoned, I am deposited and took up letters, packages, sure, for returning to some mention of and messages.

Our driver was a man of these later. amiable though meagre physiognomy, But what would the writer of the letter and he idled over his employment in a before me say were he to arrive at the way that gave the child beside him ample “Point" in Catskill on a summer's mornopportunity to fill her eyes and heart-in-ing of 1882 ? Everything bespeaks not deed, perhaps, to touch some glimmerings only bustle and enterprise, but the exhil. of her soul-with the majesty, the gigantic aration of something very new, since a wonders, of the scene before her. High railroad has been established from the upon every side rose the mountains, their Landing up to Laurenceville, just at the pathways cleft with gorge and ravine, mountain's foot. Surely this is sometheir indomitable silence broken only by thing to awaken the Van Vechtens and the rushing of their many waters, or the Van Dusens and Livingstons and Fieros quiet summer wind moving through the from their slumbers, but, as is sure to be pines. God's grace and bounty spoke the case in all American enterprises, it has through it all, in the green splendor of been received with the most matter-oftheir height and depth, their width and course thankfulness and patronage. Is vastness.

it, we question, possible to overcome the Those old days have passed away. Prog- American tourist with any contrivance ress has come sweeping over the country, for his comfort or luxury? I believe he setting much at defiance, but it can never is not to be moved to surprise in any such destroy what nature has reared there. To direction, and certainly the manner in this hour the message of the Catskills may which the travellers leave the boat and

[graphic][subsumed][merged small]

step on to the brand-new little train await- | istence, and I think it is disappointing to ing them is worthy of study.*

most people to be met with so much bustle The train rushes down into the placid and crudity when their destination is such loveliness of the shore where the boat an old and grand region. But once away lands, with little shrieks and starts and from the bank and you will find that the various signs of its being new to this ex- trip can include the romance of the hills,

for the route is well chosen, and leads you The first trip on the mountain railroad was away over a country full of richness and made in July, 1882.

peace, of idly growing things, great fields

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