in passing to which, we went through sylvan groves and cultivated fields, of vast extent, at our right and left. Beyond the gardens, in various directions, amongst forests, are to be seen little temples and lodges, of exquisite taste, in which visitors may rest and refresh themselves. Still further on, an octagonal building of ten stories, each story with projecting eaves, rises above the trees, like a grand tower. This is the Pagoda, and was built by George IV. Near this, is a thatched harem, kept for his unmarried wives. It was enclosed by a tight fence, through which no visitor could enter.

The gardens embrace many acres, laid out with much taste, and cultivated in perfection.

The Great Conservatory is the largest in the world. It is cruciform in shape, and entirely of the best glass blown into pattern shapes. It was constructed by Paxton, the royal gardener at Kew, whose brother, the gardener at Chiswick, constructed the Crystal Palace in London after that model. But the Kew Palace is more of a "crystal" one, and though not so large, is very much handsomer than the great London one It has samples of all sorts of vegetation in it, from every climate-from the palm trees and bananas to the lowly nettles. Here, in an artificial pond, is a Victoria lily, such as is in Regent's Park Garden.

Whilst at the Conservatory, I had a full view of royalty. A state carriage drove up, having a Crown upon the panel of each side door. A herald, mounted on a single horse, clad in livery, led the van. Another, richly dressed, sat upon the rear horse of the large and glossy span of white steeds that drew the carriage, the body of which was network of rattan. Behind, stood a footman in gold epau

lettes. Word was given, that the Royal Family had arrived; and Mr. Wild and I hastened to that side of the building where they were to alight. The carriage drove up to the steps, and the back and front parts of the top being thrown partially down, exposed two old ladies on the rear seats, and three young ones on the forward one. They were the Duchess of Gloucester sister of the late Kings George IV., and William IV., and daughter of George III.; the Duchess of Cambridge, widow of the late Duke of Cambridge, brother of the late kings; the Princess Mary, cousin of Victoria, and two other Princesses, whose names I did not learn. On alighting, the word was given to the crowd that had rushed out of the Conservatory "off hats! 99 to get a view of Royalty an order which all the English subjects present doubtless obeyed. I wanted my hat on my head at that time. head at that time. As they passed along the building to enter it at the south end, I stepped in again at the side door, and were in readiness to have them pass me as they should come down my way. I was examining an India Rubber tree as they approached my royal presence; and as no other person dared to stand so near monarchy, I happened to be the only one that they could make inquiries of. The Princess Mary, noticing the label upon the tree, gently requested me to explain the process by which the gum was obtained from the tree. I did so as readily as I should have done to any other genteel maiden. She is about twenty-five years old-not very handsome. She wore a white satin bonnet and dress, with a light, pink visite, descending low, in a plain sheet of richest satin fabric. I looked upon the old Duchess of Gloucester with some curiosity, for I remembered that it was with her father that America had two

wars. She and the Duchess of Cambridge are true English women fat, hale, and consequential. Wine, beer, and beef, have a characteristic effect upon English bodies.

P. S. My visit at Kew was a delightful one. Whilst there, I made arrangements with a gentleman for correspondence, after my return home, on subjects of English Agriculture. I returned to London, passing the magnificent residence of the late Lord Holland, where Fox and Canning died. It is some ways in from the road, and the grounds, in part, are shaded with long rows of gigantic oaks and elms. Our carriage reached the Crystal Palace just as the Exhibition closed for the day. The omnibuses and coaches in the streets, by the side of the Palace, which were there to convey the sixty thousand visitors to various parts of the city, were beyond what I had ever seen before, in point of numbers. For miles, the streets were literally black with them, and they could only move like men borne along in a crowd.

The carriages moved slowly, only in a line, and that under the prompt directions of the army of policemen, who are everywhere in London.

LETTER XL.

RIDE FROM LONDON TO LIVERPOOL.

Leaving London-Euston Square Station-Great Crowd of PassengersMiserable Regulations-Plunging into a Tunnel-Fertility of the Country-Heavy Crops-Harvest Work-Appearance of the Fields-Hedge Fences-Mansions, Castles, Parks, and Hunting Grounds-Country not thickly settled-Arrival in Liverpool.

LIVERPOOL, August 25, 1851.

THE distance from London to Liverpool, through Birmingham and Manchester, is over two hundred miles. On the morning of Friday last, I bade my host adieu, and with bag and baggage, (Eng., "luggage,") repaired to the Great Western Station on Euston Square, and entered the passenger's hall, which is of immense size, and most elegantly finished. Such was the rush of people assembled to take trains for different parts of the kingdom, that it was a full hour before the current of flesh had borne us as far as the office, where we could procure tickets for Liverpool. At last I emerged from the jammed hall to the train, and succeeded in crowding into a car. The train consisted of twenty-four cars, with seven hundred people locked into them. There is no baggage car, but trunks, &c., are thrown on top of the passenger cars, exposed to thieves, fire, and rain. No checks are given; all is at the passengers' own risk.

I left at 7 A. M.

Shortly after I left the city, and began to enjoy the beautiful sights of English farming, the train plunged into a tunnel three fourths of a mile long. The darkness was Egyptian. I never saw anything so black. Eyes were useless. The air was close. Two other similar tunnels one longer—were passed, before reaching Liverpool.

The road passes through but few cities or villages. Generally we were in a fertile and beautifully cultivated agricultural region. English husbandry is perfect. It was in the midst of the corn harvest, though no "corn " grows in England. The wheat, rye, barley, oats, peas, horse beans, buckwheat, hops, flax, turnips, cabbages, &c., appeared excellent. Some fields were harvested, and the grain put in horn-shaped ricks; on others, merry men and women were plying the sickles, and binding the sheaves; others were yet untouched. I saw the beauty of English rural life, that has made the poets sing the joys of "harvest home." I never witnessed crops so large in America. The golden fields of grain extended over gently undulating lands, as far as the eye could reach.

The mown grass fields were now red and fragrant with second-crop clover, and even the pastures were as fresh as our grass lands in June. There were no russet or dead patches in any of them. The cattle grazing were chiefly Durham Short Horns. All the fences were live ones

hawthorn hedges, not always very well trimmed. Occasionally tall trees grew up on the lines of old hedges, and then appearing to gain in number by lines of distance, give a show of shade and forest. There are no woodlands, excepting the parks of great landlords. Some of these are most wildly cultivated. We passed, in course of the afternoon, Shagborough Park and Farm, owned by the