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into the nave, or space between the marble pillars. The floor was mosaic pavement, of blue and white marble. At the end, (where we have our pulpits,) was a large semicircular recess the holy place, where were kept the Ark of the Covenant, the sacred Rolls, Vestments, &c. In front of it was a semi-circular row of red marble columns, supporting a dome in the upper roof, studded with stars as if in blue heavens. Beneath the dome, and over the Ark, was a large arched window of stained glass, divided into two parts, on one of which the incommunicable Name, Jehovah, was inscribed in Hebrew characters, and on the other, the Ten Commandments, also in Hebrew. The doors of the holy place were polished panel work, screened by a curtain of silk and gold.

In the centre of the room was a large platform, one step high, richly carpeted. On this was another elevation three steps high, like a square pew, with panelled sides of polished ebony. From its base projected, upon the first platform, a row of mahogany arm-chair fixtures; those in front, three in number, looking towards the holy place, being elegantly cushioned. These were occupied by one of the Rothschilds and some other Jewish dignitaries. The officiating characters occupied the altar, or great pew, on the upper platform. In the centre of it was a desk, and seats on three sides facing it. The Reader presided at the desk, and the choir surrounded him. All had their hats on and wore tollises, or drab mantles of silk, with wide blue stripes and fringes at the bottom. Some had stripes of gold lace, and one or two wore golden hat-bands and lace trimmings on their coat and vest pockets.

The first story inside was of the Doric order, finished in pilasters, and painted in imitation of verde antique on a

porphyry ground. The second story, or gallery occupied by the ladies, was of the Corinthian order, finished in pillars and pilasters, with windows in the inter-columns, of a rich arabesque pattern in stained glass. The ceiling was a semi-dome, containing gilded flowers on an azure ground. Chandeliers were suspended from gilded cranes projecting from the two stories of gallery fronts. The gallery walls were of carved wood, polished, surmounted by a gilded frame-work, like a coarse gold netting, through which the jet black eyes of the beautiful Jewesses peeped out to witness the worship of the men below for it is said-I avouch not for the truth of the saying that Jews hold that women have no souls, and therefore have no other interest in worship than to look on reverently.

I took a seat upon one of the side sofas or couches, with an old Jew, who noticing I was a stranger, was very willing to instruct me how to worship with him. The congregation was not large. All had tollises and wore hats. I took off mine for the purpose of taking some paper therefrom, but the old Jew instantly crowded it on my head again, telling me I must not take my hat off there. He and all present were armed with Hebrew Prayer Books. The officiating party in the Altar consisted of fourteen men some old and venerable, some young and active. Each seemed to have his part to perform. I could understand nothing every word read or chanted was in Hebrew. All seemed to be very devout and intensely engaged when their turns came to read or respond; but when it was not their turns, they were on hand for any sort of conversation. At such times my old Pharisaic friend was very communicative. But I sometimes was started, when in the midst of his conversation, to hear

him instantly bellow out some Hebrew word, or sentence; uttering it as if his soul were full of devotion, and was swelling his cheeks and pushing out his eyes for bursting into the outward world. Much of the service appeared to be chantings. The reading of the prayers and lessons was not all simultaneous.

After a while, the officiating corps formed a procession and approached the Holy Place with hats off. The silk and golden curtain was drawn, making a noise through the arches like the letting off steam from an engine. Then the rich doors were opened, and the sacred Roll containing the Law was taken out. The whole congregation joined the procession and marched several times with the most devout looks around the Altar, ejaculating Hebrew prayers and praises as they marched. In due time it was returned to the sacred place in due form and there concealed not to be taken out again till another Sabbath.

Then a

I saw no real Priest till the service was over. grave old man, clad in a black surplice and bands, with a broad brimmed beaver, and long grey beard, came out of a door near the Ark and passed through the Temple. Not one word of English did I hear or see, except a Prayer for the Queen and Prince Albert. This was inscribed over the Law.

The old gentleman with whom I sat said he knew Major Noah, of New York, when he was out to England a few years ago, and spoke of America with strong hopes. He said he had a son in New York and another in St. Louis. I desired to purchase one of the Jewish Service Books in use in the Synagogue, to bring home as a curiosity. He could not accommodate me that day (Saturday,) as it was contrary to their law to do business on the Sabbath; but

the next day, if I would call, which would be on our Sunday, the Jewish shops would all be open and he would go with me and see that I was provided for. To be sure that I should not miss of him he took me to his house, No. 8 St. James' Place, entertained me kindly, and then went with me across the square to the great Synagogue on Duke street, which is larger, though not so rich, as that I had just left.

It is to the credit of the Jews that they allow none of their poor to suffer. Never do they become paupers, or solicit charity from others. They take care of their own poor. I wish as much could be said for all Christians.

I felt whilst in that Synagogue to be carried back to our Saviour's time-nay, to the days of Moses of old; for the Jewish forms and ceremonies are now the same as then. By visiting the Synagogue as I did, I saw just how things were conducted by Moses and Aaron. Who could but feel solemn and reverent in such a place?

The present condition of the Jews is one of the highest proofs of the truth of Christianity; - the prophecies of Christ were true, because fulfilled in the living history of that most peculiar people. They are blinded and cannot see. And in this blindness they must remain till the fulness of the Gentiles be come in, and so all Israel shall be saved.

LETTER XXVIII.

A SUNDAY IN PURSUIT OF CHRISTIANS.

Finsbury Square - Mr. Fox-Disappointment - Search for Dr. Watt's Church-Ignorance of such a man- Bishop's Gate Street Church Protestant Sect-A Matron's Conjecture-St. Botolph's Church An Arrival from France.

LONDON, AUGUST 17, 1851.

I HAVE been in pursuit of some Christian congregation to-day, but have hardly been able to find it. After breakfast, which was not served till half-past nine o'clock, I walked down to Hatton Garden, where brother Hemphill boards, and invited him to walk with me to Finsbury Square, and hear Mr. Fox in the forenoon, and thence, in the afternoon, worship in the house where Dr. Isaac Watts used to preach. Taking Smithfield on our way, we succeeded in finding Mr. Fox's church, but not in finding Mr. Fox. He is the most eloquent preacher (a Unitarian) in London; but being a Member of Parliament, which is now in session, he will not preach till autumn. Indeed, when he is at home, he can hardly be said to preach; rather, he delivers philosophical disquisitions. I was sorry to hear his Unitarian brethren whisper certain things not so favorable to some of his habits as could be wished. Rev. Henry Colman, when he was in London, was very much taken up with Mr. Fox's preaching, and especially with