hand, but not generally in this country. Mr. Jarvie is not acquainted with the term "black jack" as applied to coffee. He has seen a coffee of such low grade as to be practically all dead beans. This is the refuse. It does not come largely from Germany, but more from Central American countries than elsewhere. The quantity is very small, certainly not 1 per cent of coffee imported. Arbuckle Brothers do not handle that kind of coffee, and Mr. Jarvie does not know what is done with it. (428, 429.)

Mr. THOMPSON, of Chicago, submits an analysis of 5 standard grades of coffee as established by the New York Coffee Exchange, whose standards form the basis of all importations of Brazil coffees, or five-eighths of the total, showing that the damaged berries vary from 24 per cent of the total weight in No. 5 to 20 per cent of the whole in No. 9, and constitute from 11 to 13 ounces per pound in triage. In No. 7, on which all transactions on the exchange are based, the damaged berries are found to the extent of 6 per cent by weight, or 8 per cent by count. Owing to the enormous demand from packers of low-grade coffee for a low-priced article, the street or market differences between the different grades are only onefourth of a cent, though the exchange fixes the difference at half a cent. (48.)

3. Glazing.-Mr. DUFF, chemist of the New York Produce Exchange, says that it is sometimes difficult to draw a line between what is adulteration in the treatment of coffee and what is not. When coffee is roasted, much of its water is driven off, and its weight is greatly diminished. To avoid that, coffee is glazed before roasting by the application of a suitable solution, which diminishes the evaporation in roasting, and so retains a larger part of the water of the coffee. (499.)

Professor MITCHELL has met with considerable coffee that is coated or glazed to increase the weight and cover up imperfections. The black beans are bought very cheaply. In putting on the glaze, which is some kind of dextrin, a coloring matter like hematite, a mineral iron-ore paint, is added, and is fastened to the beans by the dextrin, making them a uniform coffee brown. (121.)

Mr. STEWART says everyone in the trade glazes coffee, gum tragacanth, glucose, and gum being used. Thus the coffee is improved in appearance, but not for drinking. Mr. Stewart also says Lion coffee is made by the trust and sold in paper packages with stuff in it to make it look nice and deceive housewives into the idea that it is self-clarifying. (75, 76.)

4. Adulteration.-Dr. WILEY testifies that very extensive adulterations of even the unground coffee berry have been practiced. A little molasses and colored flour is molded to resemble the coffee berry in shape. He has found as much as 25 per cent of coffee purchased in the open market to be artificial, but no hasty buyer would notice the false berries. Even the consumer who buys coffee berries in the green is sometimes cheated, but this is not common. (17.)

Professor JENKINS, of the Connecticut Agricultural Station, says that coffee that is sold whole is not often adulterated. There was formerly a firm which made artificial coffee beans, but the agricultural station no longer finds them in the market. Crushed peas and chicory are often found in coffee. Ground coffee sold for 25 cents a pound or under has been extensively adulterated with chicory, crushed peas, and pellets made of pea hulls. Imitation coffee is made of wheat middlings or flour, with possibly a little gum, molded into a cylinder, perhaps of the size of the little finger, roasted, and crushed. The price of genuine coffee has gone down, so that there is not so much profit in adulterating it as there formerly was, and the publication of the facts with regard to adulteration is believed to have had a good effect. An expert can detect the coffee adulterations with the naked eye, but it is necessary even for an expert to confirm his impressions by microscopic examinations. In 1896 over 80 per cent of the cheap ground coffee examined was adulterated; in 1897, 70 per cent; in 1898, 40 per cent; in 1899, only 20 per cent. (451, 452.)

Dr. WILEY says that ground coffees are often adulterated with chicory. He does not consider this injurious. He rather likes chicory mixed with coffee. It gives it body and a richness of taste which pure coffee lacks. In France chicory is almost universally used in coffee. He objects, however, to paying 40 cents a pound for coffee which is half or two-thirds chicory, worth only 8 cents a pound. (18.) Professor MITCHELL says that a few years ago, when coffee was quite high in price, farms were started north of Milwaukee for raising chicory in large amounts. Fraudulent coffee beans were manufactured all over the country and sold, roughly, at 9 cents a pound. They had a little crease in the center and looked like coffee beans when roasted. Professor Mitchell thinks coffee adulterated with chicory a permissible compound if properly labeled, because chicory will make a desirable drink, though it does not produce the same chemical or physiological effects as coffee. (119,120.)

Professor VAUGHAN says ground coffees are largely adulterated; some of them contain no coffee at all. Father Kneipp's coffee contains none, but many people who buy it think they are getting a special brand of coffee. (205.)

Mr. STEWART says nobody uses chicory in coffee now. When coffee got to practically the same price as chicory there was no inducement. Coffee in the berry could not be adulterated with chicory, because the consumer would know it. No one sells any ground coffee except in little country stores, where they have packages of adulterated coffee. (75,76.)

Mr. JARVIE, of Arbuckle Brothers, says that coffee is generally improved by blending. Coffee of one grade or one country is seldom sold by itself. Arbuckle Brothers use no adulterants with their coffee, and coffee is now so cheap that it would not pay anyone to do so. If any dealer now adulterates coffee, he must sell it to a very poor class of trade. (429.)

5. Legislation.-Mг. THOMPSON expresses the hope that the analysis of 5 standard grades of coffee as established by the New York Coffee Exchange, which he submitted to the committee, may assist the committee in establishing a standard to govern future importations and exclude triage or inferior coffee, for which this country has been the dumping ground of the world. He finds that a large number of importers and dealers favor the exclusion of all coffees containing, at the time of shipment, more than 24 or 3 per cent of damaged berries, hulls, sticks, and valueless foreign matter. He considers it necessary to provide for such coffees as may become damaged in transit, particularly fine East India coffees, which are still shipped in sailing vessels not of the most seaworthy kind, and often become damaged from moisture, wet coffee turning black if not immediately dried. The damaged portions of these cargoes are skimmed; that is, the damaged part is removed from the sound and usually sold as skimmings," or damaged coffee, the sound portion after skimming being known as "made sound." There are two grades of "skimmings," G/S (good skimmings) and P/S (poor skimmings.) The G/S are often hand-picked and put with themade sound;" the P/S are usually too badly damaged for this. The pickings from this and similar coffee form the triage coffee. Mr. Thompson believes that the skimming and hand picking of damaged coffee should be done under the supervision of a Government inspector, with authority to order the triage destroyed if not exported within a certain period, and asks if it is reasonable to expect a 3-cent duty to stop the importation of triage when a 5-cent duty did not do so some thirty years ago. (48, 49.)

66

Mr. STEWART says that if there were a duty on coffee, "black jack" would have to stay out. But he suggests prohibiting the importation of black jack or of any coffee with black beans in it; also prohibiting the use of glazing, which improves the appearance but does not improve the coffee for drinking. (74–77.) Professor MITCHELL wishes to prohibit the glazing of coffee. (121.) Professor HALLBERG says a standard could be fixed in coffee. To say that one grade of coffee may contain 10 per cent of caffetannic acid would be an excellent criterion, because black jack contains scarcely any, being simply immature seeds in which the acid has not been developed. Its use is not adulteration, but sophistication. (83.)

VIII. MALT LIQUORS.

A. Ingredients of beer (See also Beer preservatives, pp. 105-108.).-1. Malt and malt substitutes.-Mr. WYATT, a brewer's chemist, defines beer as "a nutritive infusion of maltose sirup made bitter with hops and fermented with yeast." He says that the old German method of making beer was to make an infusion of malt, boil it with hops, and ferment it with yeast. Such beers could be made salable only by keeping them a very long time in cold storage. This produced a large amount of alcohol, by the complete fermentation of the maltose present and the various other complex sugars, which ferment only during a very long storage period. It also gave the beer a marked acidity or hardness. This method of manufacture does not suit the climatic conditions of the United States nor the palates of American consumers. It is desirable to make a lighter beer-that is, one which contains less alcohol. Moreover, our American malts contain more albuminous matter than malts made from German or English barley. This albuminous matter gives nourishment not only to the yeast, but also to the various organisms which swarm in the air, and the excess of it gives the beer a cloudiness and a bad taste. The cloudiness is more objectionable here than it would be in Germany, even if it existed there in the same degree, because the American always drinks his beer in a glass, while in Germany beer is always drunk out of a mug.

These conditions, which were found objectionable in America, led to scientific investigations for the purpose of overcoming them. During the process of malt

ing a substance called diastase is produced, which has the power, under the influence of moisture, of transforming starch into maltose sugar. Malt contains much more diastase than is necessary to convert the starch which it contains. The practice was therefore adopted of adding such a proportion of starch from other sources as the diastase present was capable of changing into sugar. From 20 to 35 per cent of starch-bearing cereals is added to the malt. The choice depends mainly on the current market price. Generally rice and corn are used; sometimes a little raw barley.

Some chemists and some excellent brewers have considered that the preparation of the maltose from the raw cereal in the brewery consumes an unnecessary time, and that a sirup otherwise prepared, but to all intents and purposes the same, might advantageously be substituted. This sirup is glucose, which is prepared from starch; in practice from the starch of Indian corn.

Mr. Wyatt declares that it is impossible to distinguish, either by the taste or the flavor, or by any means known to chemistry or physics, between a beer made entirely from malt and a beer made with the addition of any of the substitutes which he has discussed. The beers made by the newer processes are just as wholesome and as nutritious as those made from malt alone. (401, 402.)

Mr. SCHWARTZ, a consulting brewer, considers a proper definition of beer to be, "a fermented saccharine infusion to which some sort of bitter has been added." He does not think that other substances than malt, hops, and water are excluded by the common understanding of the word beer. Certain substances— malt adjuncts rather than malt substitutes-are even preferable to malt by itself. There is an excess of nitrogenous substances in malt. A beer which contains an excessive amount of nitrogenous matter is likely to have poor keeping qualities. American malts do not contain a very large amount of nitrogenous substances beyond what is desirable; but the addition of 20 or 25 per cent of unmalted grain is advantageous. It is impossible to obtain a fermentable liquor from rice, corn, or any unmalted cereal without subjecting it to the process called mashing, whereby the starch is changed into sugar. For this process malt is necessary. A certain amount of malt will convert the starch in a certain amount of unmalted grain. Malt must always, therefore, be the principal constituent.

The use of sugars is not to be regarded as an adulteration. Both glucose and cane-sugar sirups are used as malt adjuncts, and occasionally some honey also. The whole amount of the substitutes, including sugars in sirups and unmalted cereals, would not exceed 25 per cent of the amount of malt. (370.)

Mr. THOMANN quoted from the report of a British parliamentary commission which investigated the composition of beer 4 years before. This commission reported that sugar had been intermittently permitted in beer for a century, and that for over 50 years its use had been continuously permitted by acts of Parliament, and that 18 years before its report Parliament had deliberately granted complete freedom in the use of all wholesome materials. Under these circumstances, says the report, it must be presumed to be public knowledge that beer is not always made from malt and hops exclusively, and consequently that a person who demands beer and receives a beer which contains a portion of malt substitute is not thereby prejudiced. The report further expresses the opinion that while an all-malt brewing made from the best English and foreign barley is perhaps the best for some kinds of beer, the medium or lower qualities of barley malt are improved by the addition of a moderate proportion of good brewing sugar.

Mr. Thomann confirms the admission that the very best malt is the best brewing material for certain kinds of beer, but he says it can not be got. More than 35,000,000 barrels of beer are produced annually in the United States. Perhaps 56,000,000 bushels of barley are raised, and one-third of that barley is not good enough for malt. Beer is improved by the addition of unmalted cereals to the common grades of barley malt. Glucose is used to the extent of some 15 per cent of the whole amount of saccharine material. It is not injurious to the health and does not injure the quality of the beer. There are brewers in New York who have advertised for many years that they make an all-malt beer. Their business has not increased, while the business of other brewers who follow the common methods has multiplied many times. This shows that the public taste does not approve an all-malt beer. Some malt is necessarily used. The starch in the unmalted grain is converted into sugar by the malt which is used with it. A beer made of two-thirds malt and one-third rice is admitted the world over to be superior to all-malt beer. In Germany those who make and sell rice beer take pains to let the public know it. (351-356.)

Dr. WILEY says that the substitution of other substances for malt is practiced almost universally in this country, even by the largest brewers, in making the cheaper grades of beer. The demand for cheap beer leads the brewers to substitute barley, glucose, rice, and hominy grits made from Indian corn, for malt.

Rice is very commonly substituted for a portion of the malt when a very light beer is desired. Glucose or grape sugar substitutes are made in all large glucose factories, and are used most of all for very cheap beer. No beer is ever made without some malt, but the amount of substitution may reach as high as 60 or 70 per cent; that is, a low grade of beer can be made consisting of 30 per cent malt and 70 per cent grape sugar. The grape sugar is used because it requires no action of diastase to prepare it for fermentation, whereas hominy grits or rice must be acted upon by diastase or malt before fermenting, so that more malt is required. It is grape sugar, the solid product of the glucose factories, which is always used in the breweries. The product is not necessarily deleterious to health, but is not pure beer. Pure malt beer has a better flavor, and in the opinion of the witness is not so apt to produce acidity of the stomach or other digestive troubles. In 9 places out of 10 where fermented beverages are sold the purchaser will get a substitute beer, though certain brands of beer are pure. It is almost impossible for the consumer, unless a connoisseur, to tell the difference except by chemical analysis. (19, 21.) Mr. BUSCH, president of the Anheuser-Busch Brewing Association, states that the beer of this company is made entirely of barley malt, hops, yeast, and water, except that some rice is used in order to make a very pale beer of the Bohemian type. This company has never used any corn or glucose or preservatives or coloring matter. Corn does not make a high grade of beer, because of certain oily substances which it contains. They are partly transformed into fusel oil after fermentation. The quantity of fusel oil is not large enough, in Mr. Busch's judgment, to be injurious to health.

Rice is used not to cheapen beer, but to produce a very pale beer of the Bohemian type. It is twice as expensive as barley malt. Mr. Busch is not opposed to the use of corn, though he uses none himself. He does not think that there can be any good evidence that the use of unmalted grains in brewing is unwholesome. (487, 493.)

Dr. PIFFARD, of New York City, believes that beer made from barley malt is in the main a wholesome drink for healthy people and sometimes a useful drink for those who are ill, but he believes very positively that beer made from corn products and from rice is not wholesome, but distinctly injurious. He also believes that new beer and new ale are not wholesome, and that a great deal of the beer offered for sale has not been kept as long as it should be. Up to within a few years he hardly thinks that a glass of what he would regard as wholesome beer, brewed in the State of New York, could be bought in New York City; but during recent years one brewer after another has been making wholesome beer. His impressions with regard to the character of beer are derived from its physiological effects. Dr. Piffard mentions two difficulties in the way of efficient pure-beer legislation: (1) A document issued from one of the Departments of the United States Government rather favored the use of what he considers improper ingredients in beer. (2) The general public, at least in New York City, prefers the improper beer to the proper beer. There are many persons with whom the imported beers do not agree. Dr. Piffard's impression is that they contain preservatives to a considerable extent. (188, 190.)

Mr. ZELTNER, a lager-beer brewer, says that he makes one brand of beer, called old-fashioned beer, of nothing but barley malt and hops, with yeast and water. The use of unmalted grain, such as corn, in partial substitution for malt, gives a beer of lighter color, and perhaps one that does not spoil so readily, but a beer of worse flavor and less nourishing qualities. Such a beer is cheaper, and Mr. Zeltner makes some of it to meet competition; but the all-malt beer is more wholesome. It is not true that a sufficient supply of malt can not be got for the whole product of beer. Plenty of good barley is raised in this country, and more would be raised if it were demanded. It would be better for the farmer to exclude corn from beer, because the farmer gets a better price for barley than for corn. (456-458).

Mr. LIEBMANN says that for 10 or 12 years he has advocated the use of malt and hops only, but the taste of our consumers prefers the rank beer which is produced by the addition of some raw or unmalted grain. Mr. Liebmann admits that it is doubtful whether the addition of unmalted corn can be detected in the finished beer. Rice might, he thinks, be detected. Mr. HUPFEL says that he has experimented by making beer of rice and corn, and rice and grits, and rice and glucose, and has found that nobody "could say which was which out of the four different kinds," the fourth kind being apparently made from malt alone. Mr. BROWN says that an all-malt beer is injured by the excess of albuminoids which it contains. Too much of them tends to make the beer sour. Rice and corn contain practically no albuminoids. (394-396.)

Mr. HART believes that the craving for beer, which exists particularly among the working people, is an inevitable result of the character of their food, and

particularly of the treatment to which wheat is subjected in the process of preparation. The bran of the wheat contains substances which are absolutely essential to the nourishment of the body, and particularly of the brain. Persons who live on such defective food as the common bread of white flour crave the materials of which they have been deprived; and in beer they find them. If people were fed on whole-wheat food the desire for beer would disappear. The brown bread of Germany is what gave the Germans their superiority over the French in the Franco-Prussian war. Beer should be made from malt and hops. Glucose goes to make adipose tissue. This makes a man heavy and handicaps his brain. (362-366.)

Professor CHITTENDEN does not think that unmalted cereals, like rice or corn, partially substituted for malt in beer, are injurious to health. (424.)

Professor HALLBERG does not consider glucose as bad as a substitute for malt in beer as when substituted for sugar, because the sugar from the malt is converted into glucose in the making of beer. All sugar needs to be converted into glucose before it can ferment and form alcohol. He prefers beer made of hops and malt to beer made of glucose, and thinks every other consumer should have the privilege of choosing. All whisky is made from glucose. The starch of the corn is first changed into glucose, which is then fermented and turned into alcohol. (82, 83.)

Mr. LIPPE asserts that Canadian malt is the best material for making beer, and that the high tariff, by shutting out Canadian barley, has compelled brewers to resort to worse materials. Mr. BROWN asserts that as good barley is grown in the United States as anywhere in the world. Mr. LIEBMANN says that when the tariff on barley was first enacted that grown on this side of the border was not so good as that from Canada, but that our farmers have improved their product, and brewers can now get as good malt as ever. (393, 394.)

Mr. THOMANN, secretary of the United States Brewers' Association, says that the brewers will not make any fight for the privilege of using glucose. They would object to a law which forbade them to use it and did not restrict the liberty of other manufacturers. Glucose is used by candy makers in much larger proportion than by brewers. Only perhaps 15 per cent of the saccharine matter in beer may be glucose. Mr. Thomann understands that the very best candies contain as large a proportion as this, that the medium grades contain from 40 per cent to 60 per cent, and the lower grades 75 per cent. (354.)

Mr. OEHNE, a brewer, says that a pure malt beer is almost unsalable in this country; it is too strong and heavy. Corn and rice, unmalted, are added to make a beer more suited to the popular taste. Mr. Oehne believes that these materials make a beer quite as wholesome as that from pure malt, and more palatable. There is no reason why glucose also should not be used. (295.)

Mr. FECKER says that corn beer is lighter to the tongue and more palatable than malt beer. The degree of fermentation is not so high; that is the cause of the public preference for it. Malt beer is not necessarily heavier than corn beer, but there is a difference in the degree of fermentation, and consequently a difference in the taste. (299.)

Mr. BROWN, president of the Long Island Brewery, states that his beer is made of hops, malt, grits, and sometimes grape sugar. He distinguishes grape sugar as a solid substance from glucose as a liquid. Mr. Brown uses nothing which he does not consider perfectly healthful and proper for people to drink. He believes that the chief cause of brewers being occasionally blamed for making poor or bad beer is the subjection of the beer to unwholesome conditions in the retailer's hands. If the beer is drawn through filthy pipes it will come out full of bacteria which do not belong to it, and much changed in character. (385,389.)

Mr. LIPPE, president of a brewing company, says that his beer is made entirely from grain and hops. Rice and hominy are used as well as malt; it depends on the market whether he buys one or the other. (380.)

He

Mr. HUPFEL, a brewer, says that his beer is made of hops, malt, and corn. does not use any rice. The corn which he uses is unmalted and is called hominy. It is rather finely broken; it is sifted out of the coarser hominy. (379.)

Mr. HACHEMEISTER says that the brewing company of which he is treasurer uses some corn in its beer, besides hops and malt, but no glucose. He believes corn is used to make the beer lighter. (415.)

Mr. BAUER, brew master of the F. & M. Schaeffer Brewing Company, says that this company's beer is made of hops, malt, and water, with some cerealine, which is a preparation of corn and rice. Very little coloring matter is used. Nothing is added which is not healthful and good for people to drink. In Mr. Bauer's experience in Germany, before he came to this country in 1870, he used hops, malt, water, and a little rice. The methods of brewing in this country are the same as in Germany. (390.)