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Journey from New York to Philadelphia.

and the cyder is celebrated throughout State bordering on Pennsylvania, along America for its excellence. The river the beautiful banks of the Delaware; Hackinfack, and the branches communi- where the governor's houfe (of Newcating with it, are in this neighbourhood. Jerfey), and Mr. Morris's, of Philadel In this morning's ride we traverfed many phia, adorned the rural fcene. The weaextenfive marthes, which in the warm ther being cool and ferene, had enhanced feafon breed abundance of noxious ver- the pleasure of the journey; but by no min and infects, the mofquito efpecially: means loth to efcape from fo cramped and however, on the increase of population, jolting a fituation as the machine we traand confèquent culture, thole marshy velled in, I alighted gladly at Trenton, grounds will probably be drained, and where we flept-the diftance 65 miles from converted into useful pafture-land. New-York-a tolerable day's journey, confidering the many tirefome ferries. The inns on the road are rather high in their charges, but the accommodations might be reckoned good by travellers not over faftidious, were it not for a vile cuftom, common throughout the United States, of ftowing two or three men in a bed; and from the repugnance of an Englifhman to conform to this hoggish fashion, they instantly difcover his country! However, you feldom experience any difficulty in obtaining a couch to yourself; making allowance for a retinue of unwelcome gentry, bugs, fleas, and mofquitos, all of which, and warms of flies, pefter one during the hot months, along the whole extent of the low-lands in the maritime States. The peafantry, whom I had seen at work in the fields and villages, and the domeftics in the towns, were moftly ne groes: and I could not but remark their good-natured civility, contrafted with the churlifhnefs and furly mien of the lower claffes of whites. Has republicanism a tendency to make them rude, fulky, and arrogant? For I conftantly found that temper prevailing among the commonalty, both in town and country, throughout thefe midland States: very unlike the chearful good humour and obliging dif polition, characterizing the fame ranks is various parts of Europe. As for the American gentry, they are diftinguished by the fame courtely and urbanity of manners, as the well-educated elsewhere. The New-Jerfeyans, whom I faw, were, for the moft part, meagre, hard-featured, tall, and fun-burnt; the women ordinary, coarse, and ill-clad (I fpeak of the common people); no alluring bloom on their cheeks, or clear wholefome complexions, nor the finart lively air and becoming at tire, fo bewitchingly attractive in the English and the Swife females.

Elizabeth-town, fix miles beyond Newark, foon claimed our attention, fuperior to it in fize, and not inferior in modern beauty; though from its low fituation upon the channel of the fea, feparating the main-land from Staten-Ifle, it is rather expofed to floods. Afterwards we came to Woodbridge and Brunswick, fmall places, hardly deferving the appellation of towns; the latter, however, has a good inn, where we dined: here we palled a ferry over the Raritan, feventeen miles beyond which is Prince-town; where our party alighting to take refrethment and change horfes, I embraced the opportunity of vifiting the college, or feminary for the education of youth; a fpacious and not inelegant edifice, well endowed. Several handiome houfes give the town a chearful look; the church adds alfo to its beauty. The fite of this place being more elevated than Elizabethtown, renders it pleasanter and more healthful: the adjacent country is agreeably diversified with cultivated ringgrounds; a pleafing novelty after paling hitherto through fo dead a flat: though occafionally interfperfed with fome ftrong crops of Indian-corn, rye, and clover, proinifing amply to repay the husbandman's toil, and cheer his drooping fpirits after his daily exposure to fuch a burning fun. Our English farmers and cottagers are but too little fenfible of the advantages refulting from a mild and temperate clime. From Prince-town to Trenton on the Delaware, and beyond it to Philadelphia, a fine, open, champaign country prefented itself on every fide, bounded only by the horizon. The conditions of the farms in this State appeared flovenly in comparifon of thofe of England, or even of the diftrict of Flat-Bufh, on Long-Inland. The bridges were indifferent; but the fences (in lieu of hedges), partly of ftone, partly of wood, were better than we had been accuftomed to in New-York and Long land. Few gentlemen's feats, if any, were perceivable, till we reached the confines of the

On the 17th (May), fetting off early in the morning from Trenton, across the Delaware, we breakfafted at a village ten miles further on-the very reverfe of its commercial namefake-Bristol. We found, however, a comfortable inn, plea

Tour in Pennsylvania.

fantly feated on the Delaware, and commanding a fine view of Burlington (the capital of New-Jerfey) on the oppofite fide of the river; on whofe expanfive waters, and fertile banks enriched with a variety of vegetation, the eye dwelt with pleafure! For it is fatisfactory to behold the induftrious hand of man fertilizing all around him, and thus feconding the bounteous intentions of nature. The morning air, as ufual at this feafon, was very chilly, but towards noon it became temperately warm, the sky unclouded, with a moft refreshing breeze blowing from the Delaware.

On entering the powerful and flourishing State of Pennsylvania, the alteration in the face of the country and appearance of the people, was evidently for the better; particularly in the condition of the arable lands, and the fubftantial goodness of the farm-houtes, folidly built of ftone, with capacious barns and out-offices: the whole apparently not inferior to the generality in the mother-country. The bridges were better, but the fences not lo good as in the fifter-state we had left. Immortal Penn! I could almoft fancy I difcerned thy venerable fhade hovering over the placid ftream of the Delaware, and pointing to the fair metropolis, indebted to thee for its foundation! Thy tutelary genius, even at this hour, difpenfing wildom and benevolence to the numerous and peaceable fraternity, peopling thy fertile colony! Sage and virtuous legiflator, true father of thy race! How pre-eminent is thy name, compared with thofe proud fpoilers faltely denominated heroes wretches, whofe hands, imbrued in human gore, lead the fools around them to flaughter and devaltation, with the infidious lure of glory and renown! But let us revert to the more alluring contemplation of nature, and her never-ceafing variety. The country we paffed through feemed tolerably covered with farms and cottages, and profufely with woods, copfes, and orchards. In the former, the oak, the hickory, and the maple, appeared to predoninate. In the latter, the apple ani the peach-tree, which not unfrequently are feen planted along-fide the roads, and in the fields and fences. To my regret, the time of bloffoming was over; not that the vernal feafon commences earlier there than in England, but the progrefs of vegetation in the American climate is infinitely more rapid: it burts as it were by enchantment from the icy chains of winter, towards the latter end of March,

331

or beginning of April, when the whole country fuddenly affumes the vivid hues of fpring, and gives a glad promife of plenty; but the fubfequent nipping frofts, and keen north-wetters, too often, blaft the flattering profpect.

I was not a little entertained at the motley groupe in the carriage, which confifted of a member of congrefs (General Freylinghuylen, one of the fenators of New-Jerley), two ladies, a young white woman, a negro-girl, a French emigrant, a Philadelphian, a couple of New-Englanders, and myfelf. The general, a fenfible, affable man, of mild and polite demeanour, was not inattentive to the reft of his fellow-travellers; no fupercilious air did he affume, to difcredit that rational equality the Americans alone are acquainted with, and judiciously know how to realize and practife. The NewEnglanders having feen much of their own country, contributed, by their communicative turn and liberality of opinions, largely to my amufement and information, and to beguile the paffing time: whilft poor Yarico, contented with her neighbours, looked perfectly happy, though filence humbly dwelt on her lips. During this, and other excurfions in the midland-ftates, I noticed several kinds of birds, of various and beautiful plumage, peculiar to the North-American continent, viz. the Virginian nightingale; the little yellow-bird, refembling the canary; the humming-bird, well known in the cabinets of our naturalifts for its minute form, and for the rich dyes and gloffy texture of its feathers; the mockbird, celebrated for its wonderful imitative powers of fong; the cat-bird, fo termed from the fimilarity of its fhrill, and plaintive cry, to the domeftic animal of that name; the American robin, larger than ours; and the blue variegated jay. The beautiful red-headed woodpecker is common to both countries. In rambling through the woods of America at this feafon, I was confirmed in the popular opinion, that their feathery fongsters are neither fo numerous nor fo melodious, as in our more temperate clime; I had previoufly fuppofed this a mere national prejudice. Their cattle are inferior, in fize and beauty, to their respective kinds in England, but they are faid to be much finer in the northern than in the other States; however, in Lancafter, and fome other counties of Pennsylvania, where the German and Irish fariners are fettled (accounted the most induftrious and expert in the Union), confiderable improve

ments

332

Origin of Jack o' the Green," &c. &c.

ments both in agriculture and the breed of cattle have been introduced. Swine in abundance are feen roaming about almoft every farm Turkies, and a variety of other poultry are likewife common: the former are delicious eating, and abound both in their wild and domeftic ftate. As to game, I obferved very little of it, though plenty of wild-fowl. On approaching the capital, a more ftudied culture and increafing population were difcernible; but ftill the fame unvarying level as before! nothing grand, or romantic, highly interesting, or picturesque, to awake the attention of the traveller : yet the foothing idea of confidering fo fine a portion of the globe under rapid improvement, and an admirable form of government, muft be highly-gratifying to every rational being. Imagination takes flight, foaring on the wings of futurity, and abforbed in wonder, loves to contemplate the great empire of Columbia; a region fpread far and wide, from the frozen St. Laurence to the Indian

Miffiflippi, from the great Atlantic to the beautiful Ohio, and the vaft continued chain of Lakes; the whole fertilized and peopled by an enlightened and innumerable race, emulating the wife Chinese, emancipating the enslaved African, and exhibiting a noble example to the deluded European.

(To be continued.)

To the Editor of the Monthly Magazine.

SIR,

I Do not recollect that any thing has been hitherto communicated in your valuable Magazine concerning the fublime art and fcience of Dancing! But, having lately witneffed, with no fmall amufement, the fprightly agility with which a rural dancing-mafter, at his ball, performed fome hornpipes, I could not for two or three days immediately fubfequent, hinder my fancy from running, every now and then, upon this fubject, even amid my moft erudite readings and ferious ftudies. In confequence of this, the following historical conjectures fuggefted themfelves to me concerning "Jack o' the Green," "The King of Saveden's March," "Shan-Trews, or rather Sans-Trews;" three noted popular hornpipes of this country.

Thefe donces, with the mufic originally peculiar to each of them, are of French invention. They are as old as the first half of the laft century. Their names were impofed in reference to events of the

famous German war which was termi nated by the peace of Weftphalia, in the year 1638.

It was the great Gustavus Adolphus, in honour of whom were compofed the dance and the tune mentioned in the first place above. He was the ally of France. The French exulted in the fuccefs of his arms. The Parilians were wont, in thofe days, even as now, to affociate the fame of all important public characters and events, in which they took an intereft, with their lighteft and gayeft diverfions.

John de Werth, cr. Waerth, whofe name was by the French pronounced Jean de Verd, was a famous general who commanded the forces of Bavaria, and fought against France and Sweden in the fame German war.

To the infinite terror of the Parifians, he, at one time, threatened to enter France with the army under his command, and to fack its capital. On the 2d of March, 1638, however, John de Werth, or Jean de Verd, was made prifoner by the duke of SaxeWeimar, at the battle of Rhynfeld. He was foon after fent to Paris: and he remained for fome time in confinement in the caftle of Vincennes. It was probably in their exultation over his defeat and captivity that the Parifians made the tune and the dance which they diftinguished by his name. We may well believe the mufician or dancer who first introduced the one and the other into Britain, to have been illiterate enough not to difcern the abfurdity of tranflating Jean de Verd, in this inftance, Jack o' the Green.

Shan Trews, or rather, Sans Trews, the third of thefe dances, feems to me to be a name compounded of two different words, of which the firft is French-the fecond Scottish or German, if not old French. Its fignification is probably the fame as that of the well-known modern phrafe of fans culottes. The dance, and the tune to which it belongs, were probably compofed in honour of the valour of the common foldiers in the fame German war.

The common name of bornpipes was, perhaps, firft given to thefe and varions other dances, because the horn and the pipe were the mufical inftruments to which they were danced.

Thefe dances, and the correfpondent mufic, were introduced into Britain foon after the refloration of Charles II. From the court and the circles of the great, they have at length found their

* « Hugonis Grozi Epiftola," 923. p. 408.

way

Derivation of "Derry Down."....Toads in Stones.

way into the cottage and the barn. They are now common throughout Scotland.

You will, perhaps, Sir, not think this fubject in the hiftory of manners too trivial for difcuffion and illuftration in your entertaining mifcellany. I fhould be glad to find my conjectures rectified or confirmed by fome more valuable communication from one or another of your numerous correfpondents. Tungland, near Kirkcudbright, April 1, 1798.

A. R.

wind *.

There are, alfo, fome old pieces of mufic in Wales, the names of which are derived from this branch of British huf. bandry, fuch as hob y deri, the hog of the oaks; and bob y deri dando, the hog of the oaks under cover; and the like.

I have thrown out the above hints, Mr. Editor, that you might coincide with my opinion, that the well-known tune, or the name at least, of DERRY Down, comes from the fame origin. For, thefe two words, confidered as English, have no meaning at all; but they are at once identified, and feem to convey an idea in unifon with the fubject before mentioned, in the following Welth the following Welth phrases :

Y deri dowxt;

To the oaks we will come: Down i'r deri; and Down y deri; We will come to the oaks: Down, down, i'r deri down.

We will come, we will come, to the oaks we will come :

333

To the Editor of the Monthly Magazine.

SIR,

HERE are few branches of fcience

tected more errors than in natural history; and, independent of the immediate object of fuch investigations, which, if not before afcertained, is always valuable; even what may appear a trivial fubject, fometimes leads to important confiderations. Caution, therefore, is neceffary in admitting the truth of accounts which appear to deviate confiderably from the uiual laws of nature, however they may be fanctioned by refpectable authorities, and long admitted; but we should en

are abfolutely fabulous, and thofe in which the love of relating wonders has engrafted abfurdities on curious facts, left we reject the latter merely in confequence of their having been mifreprefented. The account of the barnacle goofe iffing from the concha anatifera, was an inftance of the former defcription, as the fafcinating power afcribed to ferpents is probably of the latter; and when I addreffed a few lines to you (vol. iv. p. 89), refpecting the accounts of toads living for ages completely enthat as thefe animals ufually get into clofed in ftone, it was from a fufpicion, removal or breaking of a ftone may fomeholes or crevices to pafs the winter, the times have disturbed them in their retreat, and given rife to a hafty conclufion that they came out of the ftone. It was not farther upon this fubject, till I was able my intention to have troubled you any to fpeak decidedly with respect to the poffibility of thefe animals exifting any fresh air; though perhaps this is not the confiderable time entirely deprived of greatest objection to fuch accounts: but, in confequence of Mr. SMITH's letter in your last number, it may not be improper to obferve, that I had tried the fame experiment, and found the refult very different from what he relates; and with regard to the inference of the poffibility of the toad living a confiderable time in vacuo, it is only neceffary to remark, that agreeable to the well-known fact, that refpiration confumes only one of the component parts of atmospheric air, the air in which the animal was confined is, at the time of its death, but little diminished from the original quantity. 12th April, 1798... J. J. G.

Τα

Eye Witnees of Toads in Stones.....Dr. Thompson.

To the Editor of the Monthly Magazine.

that are found alive in ftones: in Toulon Harbour, and the Road, are found folid hard tones and perfectly entire, contain

communication with the air, feveral living hell fish of an exquifite tafte, called dactyli, or dates. To come at thefe fish, the ftones are broken with mallets.

Alfo along the coast of Ancona, in the Adriatic, are ftones, ufually weighing about fifty pounds, and fometimes more, the outfide rugged and easily broken, but the infide fo compact and firm as to require a strong arm and an iron mallet to break them. Within them, and in feparate apertures, are found fmall shell fish quite alive, and very palateable, called folenas, or cappe lunghe. Thefe facts are attested by Gaffendi, Blondel, Mayol, the learned bishop of Sulturara, and more particularly by Aldrovandi, a phyfician of Bologna. The two latter fpeak of it as a commonly known fact, and of which they themselves were EYE WITNESSES.