vidual, of the name of Stevenson, and his sons, to one of whom I had a letter of introduction, and who settled here in 1778, have most contributed, by their spirited undertakings in various branches of traffic, to raise it to its present consequence. They principally supply the Hebrides in their vicinity with merchandise; they carry on a large coasting trade; deal in meal, kelp, cattle, hides, &c.; and carry on the business of ship-building. There is no place upon the coast of Scotland better adapted, on account of its excellent harbour and road, than Oban, for a great seaport and fishing station. In times like the present, when we are contending with a most subtle and formidable enemy, this place is peculiarly worthy of the notice of Government, as affording an admirable situation for a royal dock and arsenal. There is a ready communication open with Glasgow, by the Clyde, for the conveyance of stores; Loch Linnhe is navigable to Fort William, which has an easy access with Fort Augustus and Fort George, where a considerable body of troops might be lodged, or barracks might be erected in the neighbourhood of Oban. Ships of war and transports might sail for the West Indies or America, from the west coast of Scotland, with any wind, at all times of the year; and, if the constitution and the garrulous curiosity of the country would admit of it, this coast would 428 ↓ HOSPITABLE TELEGRAPH. be well suited for fitting out expeditions which should be really secret. Oban was much enlivened by the expectation of the Duke of Argyle, who, I found on my arrival, was with a party of friends visiting some of the Hebrides. In the neighbourhood of Oban there are some beautiful walks, particularly one to Dunolly-castle, along the bay of Oban, This castle was once the residence of the ancient Scottish Sovereigns; and an aquatic excursion to the Castle of Dunstaffanage, near Connell Ferry, will amply remunerate the trouble of reaching it. The remains of this castle stand on a bold rocky promontory, jutting into Loch Etive. This castle was founded by Ewin, a Pictish Monarch, contemporary with Julius Cæsar. It is said that, when visitors unexpectedly arrive at this castle, and there are not sufficient provisions within for their entertainment, an hospitable telegraph, namely, a table-cloth, is hoisted upon a pole on the battlements, which is a signal for certain tenants of the proprietor to bring supplies of fresh salmon, or any other fish which may be in season. At Oban I engaged a vessel to carry me over to Mull. CHAP. XXIII. FIDELITY THE HIGHLAND CHARACTER ELUCIDATED HIGHLAND SENSI- HIGHLAND HARDIHOOD-CAUSES OF HIGHLAND CIVILIZATION-SCOTTISH LOYALTY-HIGHLAND OATHS-HIGHLAND INNS. DURING my stay at Oban, the mountaineers whom I had just left frequently afforded me matter for reflection, and I now submit to my readers the result of my observations, and the information which I derived with regard to their national character. Although, from all that I could learn, it appears that the distinguishing features of the Highland character are vanishing away, and blending with that of their southern and eastern neighbours, yet much still remains to arrest the attention and gratify the curiosity of the tourist. In the early history of the Highlanders a most romantic sensibility was one feature in their national character. The following undoubted anecdote, amongst many others that might be produced, will illustrate the remark:-When the 430 HIGHLAND SENSIBILITY. Macleans of Loch Buy possessed in sovereignty the south side of the island of Mull, the chase afforded them both food and recreation. On a day when a great bunt was intended to be given by the chief of the clan, he ordered one of his attendants, named Gore, or Godfrey, to stand at a certain pass, and not to permit a stag to escape in that direction, on peril of losing his life. In the chase some deer forced their way by him, notwithstanding every precaution, and the haughty and enraged chief, instead of putting him to death, convened his clan, and ignominiously chastised him on the summit of a peak; pierced to the heart by a sense of the disgrace, the oppressed Highlander immediately afterwards seized the child of the chief from the arms of its nurse, who was standing amongst the clan, and leaped from the peak with the infant in his grasp, with whom he alighted in safety upon a rock below. The distracted father looked down with terror upon his child, and implored the Highlander to restore it, offering him forgiveness, rewards, and honours, for his compliance. Gore declared that he would not make up his mind until the chief had endured the same disgraceful chastisement which had been inflicted upon him. The chief submitted, and was scourged within his view, and then again implored to have his child; upon which Gore, with a ghastly grin and shout of exultation, precipitated himself with the infant from the rock where he stood to a dreadful depth below, and both were instantly destroyed. HIGHLAND HAUGHTINESS. 431 The authority which these chieftains once possessed is almost incredible; and as it is the nature of power to corrupt, it frequently imparted an uncommon degree of sternness and severity to the character of him who possessed it. Many of the chiefs, in distant periods, were regarded with superstitious veneration, and were as absolute as any of the Princes of the East, and frequently displayed a power not a little terrible to those who called it into action. It is related, that soon after the accession of Queen Ann, when Prince George of Denmark, her husband, was Lord High Admiral of England, some Scots gentlemen represented to him that Scotland could furnish the navy with as good timber for masts, and other naval uses, as Sweden or Norway, and at more reasonable prices; upon which two surveyors were dispatched to ascertain the truth of the representation. At Edinburgh they procured a letter of introduction to a great chieftain, in a remote part of the Highlands, to forward their commission. Upon their arrival at his house they announced their object, and produced the warrant and instructions from his Royal Highness. After deliberately perusing them, the chieftain observed that he knew nothing of such a person. The surveyors informed him that he was the husband of Queen Ann; upon which he replied, "I also know nothing of her; but there came hither, some time ago, such as you, from Ireland, as spies upon the country, and we hear they have made their jests |