A SEAT OF JUSTICE.

49

Circassian, and, though the former has now returned to the religion of his fathers, his friend, a strict Moslem, is still much attached to him, and never neglects an opportunity of inquiring after him.

At this Zemala too, and near the river, are architectural remains of a former race which swayed the sceptre in this part of Africa. The principal ruin, however, and the only one worth noticing, is that of a fort, built of massive stone, and put together without any cement. The Khaleefa and a number of sheikhs conducted us to this structure of " our progenitors," as they were pleased to designate it; but they readily confessed the superiority which it exhibits over everything they are able to do.

"Your progenitors were wise in their day," said one of the aged judges, rather jocularly disposed, in addressing us, “and so are you now; but they were strangers to the true religion; and you, although you found your way here, are still ignorant of the way to heaven."

On our way back to the tents the sheikhs discussed the magnitude of a lion that was killed in the vicinity a few days before, and this conversation was gradually so shaped till it reached the important question of the noble animal's moral abilities, when the same learned judge thus delivered his opinion :

"Whether the lion is a true believer or an infidel, I am not able to decide; but that he understands all that is said to him is true beyond all doubt, and the man who denies this denies a positive truth."

He then corroborated his assertion by numerous examples, which had the effect of producing a thorough conviction in the minds of his audience, excepting only in those of the hardened "unbelievers;" but since they rejected even the evidences upon which the Islaam itself is founded, what wonder that they should disbelieve the statement of the old sheikh !

E

In the evening a number of the rulers of the Oulaad Aoon assembled before our tent, with whom we conversed freely for some time. The weather was perceptibly warmer. Our thermometer indicated 76° Fahrenheit before sunset; but the night was pleasant, and towards 8 P.M. it was so cool, that when we retired, an hour after, we found our heavy blankets very acceptable.

CHAPTER III.

THREE SPARE BULLETS.

A Challenge-The Enchanted Horse-The Idol Destroyed - Venerable Remains of Moghrawa-Domiciliary Search for Antiquities-A Trial-The Sentence Reversed-A Difficult Pass-Ruins of Hammam-Three Spare Bullets-Another Adventure-A Semicircular Gun-A Naval Hero and his large Key.

A GREAT temptation held out by the old shoush of the zemala to induce us to stay longer was the approaching fair, which is held here weekly. The shoush is at the head of the police force of the zemala, and the police force is comprised in the shoush himself. But in cases of emergency the sheikhs are not too proud to extend to him their assistance. The old man was desirous to turn us to a little account, for we were in want of another horse (my bay being disabled by lameness), and he declared that we might pick up an excellent animal for very little money; but he appeared too anxious for our good, and his great concern on our behalf failed to inspire us with confidence in him. I therefore preferred mounting the black we bought the day before, and this enabled us to start for Moghrawa at 7:30 A.M.

After travelling an hour and a half, or about six miles from our starting point, we approached the Waad Mossool, which name bears too great an affinity to the Muthul, mentioned by Sallust in his history of the Jugurthine war*, not

* Sall. Bell. Jug. § 48.

to be recognised as the same river. It empties itself into the Siliana,

Our road lay between the hills through which the river winds. It assumed occasionally the character of the picturesque, particularly when it passed through verdant dales, teeming with wild flowers of every hue, and bounded by graceful elevations covered with a variety of trees of spontaneous growth. Having traversed these we commenced to ascend the rugged heights, and by 11 A.M. we came upon what had the appearance of a truncated conical hill, on the flat surface of which, in the midst of a rich crop of barley, we found a mausoleum, to which the Arabs have given the name of Twaal Ezaamel, "the horse's tether," and by this strange name this whole district is known.

This structure, in the immediate vicinity of which are the foundations, and prostrate remains, of other buildings, had originally three storeys, the upper one of which has since fallen. It stands upon three pyramidal steps, and is ornamented with fluted pilasters, surmounted by Corinthian capitals. Its entrance is perfect, but it bears no inscription, nor could we find any among the heap of ruins from its upper storey.

This plateau is situated amidst a perfect sea of hills, varying in shape as they do in dimensions. It is an awful solitude, the perfect stillness of which is only occasionally broken by the singing of birds, by the shrill notes of a Bedouin shepherd, or the ringing neigh of some splendid Arab steed, secreted in a lonely ravine to prevent its proving a temptation to the grasping and greedy Mamlooks, the devastating rulers of this country, who might unscrupulously appropriate it at an optional price, or deprive its legitimate owner of it without even offering him a price at all.

We halted here about an hour, and whilst I was rambling about on the brow of the hill I was unexpectedly accosted

by an Arab. I was just then transferring some passing thoughts to my note-book when the stranger uttered these words :

"Are you noting down the affairs of this country in order that the Nazarenes might come to take possession of it? Everything that appertains to this world is transitory. You ruled here before, and you are to rule here again. When will you come to redeem us from our bondage, and free us from the injustice with which we are oppressed by our wicked rulers? May Allah be merciful to us, and speedily guide you here! I have been to your country in the west [Algeria], where the Arabs breathe freely. There they live and enjoy what Allah has given them, but here we are in constant trepidation of soul, and always in danger of being plundered of the little we have, and that not by strangers, but by those who ought to protect us!"

This Arab was just returning from one of the secluded spots amidst the mountains, where he kept several good horses, which he hoped to take to Algeria to sell to the French.

On resuming our journey we fell in with an Arab travelling with his wife, and as they had but one horse between them, they alternately walked and rode. When we overtook them the lady was mounted in the big Moorish saddle, seated astride after the fashion of man, with her feet in the monstrous stirrups, while the long Arab gun was slung across her shoulders. Her lord walked by her side. Apprehending probably, that some of our party might feel inclined to indulge in some sarcastic remark at an exhibition so unusual in this country, he shrewdly resolved to have the initiative, and no sooner were we within hearing distance than he shouted at the top of his voice

"Advance, horsemen, this warrior defies you all, either in the use of fire-arms, in horsemanship, or in single combat. Who accepts the challenge? I stake 2000 piastres against