corrupted their native language, as to give rise to the term

"solecism."

I saw numbers of columns and other remains

upon the shore as I passed.

SUNDAY, NOVEMBER 19.

ON board the Austria the steward gives each cabin passenger a cup of coffee on rising. At nine a substantial meal called dinner is served, and at four o'clock we sup. Mr. Pitt would have preferred these hours to those later ones now in fashion, for he once declined an invitation to dinner at eight on the ground that he was engaged to sup with a friend at seven. The Turks eat by themselves, and I have been surprised at the dexterity and cleanliness with which they dine, seeing that they dispense with the use of knives and forks. After tossing about a good deal last night, I found on rising this morning that we were sailing along the coast just below a bold range of the Taurus mountains. In the course of the forenoon we crossed the Sea of Pamphylia, and were off Perga and its neighbour Attalia, at one of which the Apostle Paul preached, and at

the other he embarked for Antioch.* In the afternoon we passed Cape Chelidonia. At night the sky and the sea seemed to have exchanged places, for while there were no stars above us, the sea was a perfect galaxy, and myriads of flakes of light illumined the pathway of the ship. The mollahs and I, though we cannot quite discuss the cases in our respective law books, have become very good friends. A map which I was consulting, and which they requested to be allowed to see, for we are not so formal here as at home, served as a mutual introduction. When they found, in answer to their question, that I was an Englishman, and not a Frenchman, one of them took my hand in both his and pressed it with evident approbation. Masters and servants amongst these people speak familiarly together, and seem cordially to understand one another. It was so in old times, when Jacob not only called Laban his brother, but his servants brethren,†-and Naaman's servant, when his master in the pride of his heart was about to reject the prophet's bidding, mildly expostulated with him as his father. My mukary constantly spoke of his master as his brother, and such language I have reason to think is common.

* Acts xiv. 25. + Genesis xxix. 4.

The only wars which European nations have hitherto united to carry on in the East have been wars in support of their common faith. Never until now have they been joined in the support of Islamism, and the Greeks, who are all hearty in the cause of Russia, raise a great outcry against the present war as being high treason against their faith and ours.

MONDAY, NOVEMBER 20.

SINCE leaving the Sea of Pamphylia we have coasted along Lycia, and have passed Myra, where St. Paul, going to Rome, was transhipped into another vessel by the same courteous centurion who had treated him so considerately at Sidon,* and Patara where, on another occasion, he took shipping for Phoenicia. All last night the sea was rolling heavily, and though the ship breasted it bravely, she groaned and creaked from stem to stern. The noise she made would not only have awakened Rip Van Winkle, but when awake would have prevented him

from recovering his nap. Wind and sky, which were both adverse, seemed most unwilling that our welcome should be hospitable to the celebrated isle of the hospitallers. But after sunrise the wind moderated, and the weather relented, and with the beautiful hills of Caramania on the Asiatic shore, upon our right, and the islands of Nisara, Piscopi, and Syme, celebrated for their sponges and the divers for them,—before us, and all the prospect clad in the liveries which only this climate knows,—we sailed with a blue sky, a bright sun, and a favouring gale, between the entrance towers of St. John and St. Michael, into the beautiful harbour of Rhodes. The former of these towers is lofty, square, and solid, with projecting watch towers springing from four coins towards the top, and a bold cornice with heavy machicolations round it. Its architecture strongly reminded me of the gateway of Lancaster Castle, which was probably built about the same time. Two years ago an earthquake shook down a portion of the tower, and destroyed its staircase, so that the summit can now no longer be reached. The other tower, though round and very strong, does not look so defiant or commanding as its opposite neighbour. There is another and a smaller harbour, called the harbour of the galleys, which is defended by the single tower of St. Nicholas. The town rises from the bay

up the hill side, and surrounded as it is by its ancient walls and fortifications it looks splendid even in decay. The coins of Rhodes have on the obverse a rose, which the name of the island means in English, and on the reverse a figure of Apollo, in allusion to the sunny skies of the place, for it is a proverb that there is no day on which the sun does not show his face in Rhodes. I walked over this ancient city with melancholy interest. In the street of the knights their escutcheons carved in stone, in spite of Moslem prejudice, still remain undefaced. They have been spared by the conquerors, from respect for the brave men of another creed whom they have vanquished. I saw their once beautiful church, now converted into a mosque, with its curiously carved door; and I saw a pyramid of cannon balls of stone sixteen inches in diameter, and intended once for far other purposes than to excite curious wonder, lying near to their handsome Gothic archway, and still nearer to their glorious castle. I also saw the bazaars of the modern city, its great mosque in the Square, and the various other curiosities of the place. Rhodes, which is still fertile, was once remarkable for its abundant productiveness. It is not nature, but the government, that

has deteriorated.

Maps, I find, are good letters of introduction here. It