forded the river Conwy. Returned to Kyffdû, which lies in Denbighshire, as does almost all the country on the East side of the river Conwy. The vale of Conwy runs North and South, and is very fine the whole way from the junction of the Machno and Conwy; in all, nearly 12 miles.

Monday, 27. Lay at Lyffdû. Set out after breakfast for Denbigh; the road very good, over a tolerable country for grazing and sheep. In looking back we had a very fine view of the Caernarvonshire hills, amongst the rest Snowdon, and Carnedd y Llewellyn, which seems very high, and has snow on it near Midsummer, as Mr. Ellis, who lives in sight of it, assured us. At about four miles from Denbigh we had a full view of the Castle, which makes here a grand appearance. It lay full East of us, and beyond the hills which skirt the vale of Clwyd. The vale runs from North to South; at the North end lies Rhyddlan, and that dismal marsh which we passed last year in the dark. In going to Denbigh we went through Llangannon. The town of Denbigh consists chiefly of one long street, and is pretty well built. From the middle of the town, which is the highest part, there is a very pleasing view down a long street into the vale. The Castle is in a most ruinous condition; nothing but a gateway remaining; though it stood on a large space originally, as appears by the ruins. We dined at Denbigh; and after dinner set out for

Ruthin, which stands on an eminence in the vale of Clwyd, and is a cheerful and pretty large town. At the entrance we passed the river Clwyd, or rather a very small brook which bears that name. This vale is called Dyffryn Clwyd, or the Vale of Clwyd *; is well cultivated, and rich, consisting of tillage and pasture, interspersed with some pretty good gentlemen's houses.

Tuesday, 28. Lay at Ruthin. Set out in the morning for Mr. Wynne's of Gwrthmeilio, in the parish of Llewin, Denbighshire, in our way to Bala. We dined at his house. The road is over an open dry country, with fine sheep-walks great part of the way. We had in turning back a fine view of Ruthin, at about two or three miles from the town; and in looking forward, we saw some of the high hills in Merionethshire, particularly Arran Mowddy. The castle at Ruthin is still more demolished than that of Denbigh, the remains of the walls not being above 3 or 4 feet high. The vale is terminated about two miles from the town, by pretty high hills that lie in a circular form.

Wednesday, 29. Lay at Garthmeilio. Set out for Bala; got there about two in the afternoon.

* Speaking of the charming Vale of Clwyd, Mr. Wyndham observes, "that for fertility it is not exceeded by any spot in England;" p. 163.

† See an account of Bala in Wyndham, p. 183; and a bird'seye view of its beautiful lake, Pennant, vol. II. p. 77.

Dined with Mr. Price of Rhiwlas, in company with Mr. Owen, the father, and Mr. Mostyn. His house well situated, pointing South almost, with the river running before it, through a bed of large stones. Behind the house the ground rises, and is covered with wood. The lake of Bala is near 10 miles round, as found upon measure. It runs from North-west to South-east. Bala stands at the North end, and Llanucha at the other. We see Cader Idris, Arran Mowddy, &c. in view from Bala.

Thursday, 30. Lay at Mr. Price's. Set out for Montgomery. Went through a narrow vale for some miles; at last ascended a very steep hill, in going down came into a very fine valley, with a river running through it, the sides covered with wood. It is called the vale of Llanwthy, or vale of Wild-ducks. A cataract two or three hundred feet high, falls down a hill into it, very fine. Passed through a village called Dollanog, by which runs either the Vernwy, or a river that falls into the Vernwy, and forms a sort of a cataract or torrent, amidst rough large stones, very picturesque. Saw in our way a vale called the vale of Meisod, very beautiful. Dined at Caer Einion, from whence we went to Montgomery, which is a pretty good town. The castle was situated on the top of a very high rock, but there seems to be no great remains of it. We did not go up to it,

coming in late, and going out early. Nothing extraordinary in the country.

Friday, 31. Lay at Montgomery. Set out next morning for Foxley. Passed over a hilly country of fine sheep pastures, and vales in sight on both sides for a great part of the way. At last came to the edge of a very steep high hill, at the bottom of which lies Knighton in Radnorshire, where we dined. We went over the hills, which consist of fine sheep pasture, particularly near Keynesham, which seemed to be the finest I ever saw. The grasses chiefly Agrostis, Vernal, and Festuca ovina. From hence we had a sight of the lower grounds, where Weobly lies. When we got down into them, the roads were extremely bad and unpleasant, being very dirty, narrow, and covered by the hedges. Passed through Weobly, and from thence went to Foxley.

CHAPTER X.

Mr. Stillingfleet's attachment to Music-Connection with Mr. Smith-Writes Dramas and Oratorios-Letter to Mr. Neville on the performance of Paradise Lost-Appointed Barrack-Master at Kensington by Lord Barrington-Deaths of Messrs. Price and Windham-Legacy of Mr. Windham-Acquaintance with Gray, the Poet.

MR. PRICE being an excellent musician, and able composer, Mr. Stillingfleet's residence at Foxley increased his love and knowledge of music. In the midst of his botanical and classical pursuits, he dedicated a part of his time to the practice of this delightful art, being a tolerable proficient on the Violencello. His acquaintance with Mr. Smith*, the pupil and successor of Handel, which had commenced at Geneva, and had been since improved by constant intercourse, led him also to employ his poetical talents in the composition of Dramas or Oratorios to be set to

* For an account of Mr. Smith, see Anecdotes of Handel and Smith.