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tiful bouquet of flowers and the cards of our should sail into the harbor and open fire upon the hosts.
place. We spent an hour or two longer on the island, The streets are narrow, and some of them leadand then went on board our vessel again, and ing to the mountains in the rear of the city are soon were on our way to Fayal, a hundred and very steep. They are kept almost spotlessly clean,
however, and paved nicely with small stones. None of the houses are occupied on the lower story except those of the poorer class. Stores are either kept there or it is neatly paved for a courtyard. One quite nice-looking house in the Rua San Francisco had a donkey stable underneath, and was occupied by a family above. There were wooden balconies to nearly all the windows, and they seemed to be a favorite resort for the ladies and children of the household. On all except the business streets the houses of the better class had spacious gardens connected with them, but they were all surrounded with such high walls that nothing could be seen of their beauty except as one peeped through a half-open gate now and then. I passed one house that had what its owner probably called a statue at the entrance to the grounds, but it was nothing more than an over
grown doll, dressed in bright colors and holding WOMEN IN CLOAKS IN THE STREETS OF PONTA DELGADA.
a stiff bouquet of earthenware flowers at her twenty miles distant. It has much the appearance | bosom. of Flores as we approach it from a distance; but a The houses are seldom more than two stories nearer view shows it to be under a greater state of high and are covered with a roofing of red earthen cultivation, and it does not rise so abruptly from tiles. There are very few chimneys there such as the sea.
The villages are larger than those of we use; in fact, the smaller houses have none at Flores, and are laid out with greater regularity. all, and the smoke, whils cooking, has to escape The high lands are covered with orange-groves, the best way it can. The climate is so mild that and the many.colored fields of grain make a fires are not needed, except for cooking, and fuel rich mosaic as they glow in the sunshine. I was is so scarce that the poorer classes seldom build a told at length that a rocky headland just before us fire more than once a week, when they bake was Castle Blanco, and that as soon as we had enough to last them that length of time. passed it, the harbor of Horta, the principal city Frequently, in passing through the streets in of Fayal, would be visible.
the older part of the city, I saw through the open I watched with eager eyes for the first glimpse; door the interior of some of the poorer huts. and when the scene actually burst upon my view The floors were of clay, and the furniture rude half of its beauty had not been told me, for it and very ancient, consisting of clumsy, highshone like a beautiful gem in an emerald setting. backed chairs, rickety-looking benches, and nonThe houses are all of stone, plastered on the descript bedsteads. One or two cheap, gaylyoutside, and most of them whitewashed. Now colored pictures generally adorned the walls, and and then I saw one with a yellow tinge, and some either were meant to represent the Virgin Mary of them were in the rough state in which they or some of the saints. were built. There are stone landing-steps here, The women in Fayal wear a strange kind of so it is not so difficult getting on shore as at some garment which they call a capote. It is usually of the other islands. An old fort mounting fifteen made of dark-blue woollen cloth, cut like a large guns stands near the landing, but I am afraid it circular, with an immense hood shaped like a would not be much protection if an ironclad monk's cowl and stiffened with whalebone, so that it stands about two feet and a half from the and buyers were there with pretty market-baskets, shoulders. A more unbecoming garment, it seems getting their family supplies. The market place to me, could not have been invented, and I is a large court-yard enclosed with a high wall, and believe it is worn in no other part of the world. and neatly paved, except here and there where a
The women here deal largely in fruit, some of patch of soil is left, from which thrifty trees are them purchasing whole orchards of oranges and growing. There are quaint little stalls arranged selling them by the basket at the street corners, around the sides, and these are mostly tended by or to other venders of the fruit. One old woman women. They were offering for sale queer little I always saw sitting near an archway at the head cheeses no larger than a saucer. I should have of the street leading from the landing-steps. In bought one, but unfortunately I had neither basket summer she sells figs, plums, apples, and pears, nor bag to put it in, and as they never have wrapand in winter oranges and nespars. The latter is ping paper here I had to leave it. I bought a rieh fruit about the size of a plum and makes a some delicious white plums, however, and those delicious preserve. It is such a convenient place which I could not eat I found room for in my for trade, that the old woman takes a great many pocket. There were all kinds of vegetables for dumps in the course of the day. These are a sale, besides figs, lemons, plums, apples, and pears. large copper coin, very thick and heavy, and The latter fruit was not nearly as good as we have worth about five of our cents. The Portuguese in America, but the figs were delicious. money is all so large that shopping here is The food of the poorer people is very coarse attended with considerable labor, and I did not and plain, consisting mostly of corn bread, withwonder that people carried good-sized bags to out butter, and perhaps once a week a little meat hold their coin. These bags are a curiosity in their way. They are made of patchwork, some tastefully put together and some with ugly combinations of color, and nearly all ornamented at the corners with cotton tassels.
Almost all burdens are carried on the head, and it is a novel sight for strangers to see the women coming from the old well in the public square, carrying their wooden water-jars on their heads. This ancient well is a large, square one, and quite deep, and they draw the water up in buckets. I could not help thinking how much easier they could get the water if there was only a windlass or a churn-pump, or even an old-fashioned wellsweep. But these people look with great disfavor upon any new invention, and prefer to draw water in the same hard way their ancestors did hundreds of years ago.
The milkmen here have a singular outfit, consisting of two wooden jars fastened to a pole, which they sling across their shoulders. The dish with which they measure their milk is also hung to the same pole. They walk eight or ten miles from their farms in the country to sell their daily supply of milk, and then trudge patiently back again.
and what fish they can catch. I saw a woman As I was strolling down the Rua San Francisco carry along the street one day what at first sight one day, I saw an unusual crowd, and soon learned appeared to be a huge snake nearly four feet long. that it was market day. The peasants were bring. I was told this was a species of eel, which was ing in the produce of their little plots of ground, considered a great delicacy. The shape and color
of the creature was so suggestive of a serpent, mountain on the island of Pico, opposite Fayal, that I can never think of it without disgust. is a most striking object, whether seen from a
There are only about three or four horses in all distance or viewed from its base. Fayal, and these are owned by private persons. The Peak has evidently been an eruptive vol. There are several stables in the place, but donkeys cano in ages gone by, but from its long silence and mules are the only animals they have to let. the peaceful dwellers at its base seem to have no There are, perhaps, half a dozen old lumbering fears of its again breaking forth. The mountain barouches, and these are drawn by a pair of mules. towers over seven thousand feet above the level of
The donkey saddle is a curious arrangement, the sea, and rises in a symmetrical cone to a point something like an arm-chair, and both gentlemen at the summit. It is covered with snow in winter, and ladies sit sideway upon it. Though a clumsy- which sometimes lingers in small patches far into looking affair, it is quite comfortable to ride upon, the summer. It is often covered with dense clouds as I found by experience. Donkeys are let by the for days at a time, and is an unfailing indication day or hour, as one chooses, for a small sum, of the sort of weather that may be expected in including the services of a boy. A small party of the vicinity. I was favored with a view of a us hired some of these sure footed but ungainlymagnificent sunset on the mountain, and it was looking steeds for an afternoon ride, and they fully an hour, after the sun had left its base, behaved so well that we shall always speak with before the shadow had reached the peak, and the favor of these animals, so often berated and much changing colors of blue, purple, and crimson with abused by travelers.
which the sun painted the summit were beautiful The climate of the island is very fine, and the in the extreme. Scarcely had the twilight faded air, laden with the perfume of flowers, always ere the full moon arose over the southern base of soft and mild. Many resort here to spend the the mountain, and bathed the whole scene in a winter, and thus escape the rigor of other climes. flood of golden light. The white houses of Horta The accommodations for travelers are excellent, glistened in its rays, and the view was one of especially at the Fayal Hotel, the principal one enchantment as beautiful as it was rare. in the place. It stands on the Rua San Francisco, There are pretty villages all along the shore of looking directly upon the water, and thus com- the island, and these invariably built of stone, manding a fine view of the harbor, and is admir- most of them plastered and neatly whitewashed. ably kept by Mr. and Mrs. Edwards. They set a
They set a At two or three places a small custom-house is
located, but Fayal is really the seaport for its trade.
The soil is very fertile, producing an abundance of vegetables and the most delicious of fruits. It has a great many vineyards, and Pico wine is made in large quantities. The residents of Fayal go over there as we go into the country here, for recreation, and some of the wealthy people have summer residences there.
The island of St. George is just opposite and is long and narrow, with high bluffs, especially on its northern side. It was curious, as we sailed along, to see the little patches of cultivated land
on the steep sides of the island. It would seem A DONKEY CART.
as though a man could hardly get a footing there,
much less to make anything grow. But they have bountiful and excellent table, plentifully supply- thrifty vineyards, and patches of yams and potaing their guests with all the delicious fruits of the toes growing on every available space, and when islands, and the charge is only a dollar a day of the crops are ripe they carry them on their backs American money.
over the bluffs to the villages. The Peak of Pico, a beautiful cone-shaped We saw a great many little mountain-streams pouring down the ravines into the sea. These and cheese ; but a great deal of their living comes brooks, which at some seasons swell into small from the sea, and the inen go fishing whenever rivers, are a great convenience to the islanders, the weather is suitable. They build little stone for they do their washing in them. I often saw walls of the black lava rock which abounds here, the lavadeiras, as the washer-women are called in and over these they train their grapevines, and Portuguese, trooping down to the brook-side with a huge basket of clothes poised on the head. They rub them on the rocks for a wash-board, and spread them on a stone wall to dry, putting small stones on them to keep them from blowing away.
Valons is the port of entry, and custom-house boats are kept here for the officials to cruise about in the discharge of their duty. The town is a sleepy-looking place, nestled in a little green nook at the foot of a mountain, and has only a limited share of the commerce of the islands.
St. George was visited by a volcanic eruption in 1808 which lasted a number of days, and the remains of the destructive lava streams which poured down its sides are plainly visible. The course of the fiery flood can be distinctly traced, and the beauty of the southern side of the island is greatly marred by the acres of blackened soil, which seem like a gloomy desert contrasted with the adjacent fertility. The inhabitants still remember the great fire as seen by themselves, or its story told by eye-witnesses, and it is to be hoped they may never experience another such the square-shaped enclosures look odd enough from disaster.
a distance. One morning the captain called me early, and A mill for grinding corn, which one of our said we were nearing the island of Graciosa, and party saw, was a strange affair. In a sort of that the view was too fine to lose. I hastened on underground hut was a huge hopper and crank, deck, and exclaimed with delight, as my eye rested fastened to which was an old cow, blindfolded, on the beautiful scene. The island is of a different that went round the apartment at a clumsy shape from any of the rest, more graceful in walk, and thus turned the mill, which a small boy outline, and I suppose this is what gave it its tended. On all the other islands the corn and name. It is not near as high as its neighbors, wheat are ground by windmills, and they look but has two or three beautifully-rounded hills very picturesque, crowning the highest land with upon it, on one of which stands a church, with a their sails spread to the breeze. Strangers are a winding road leading to it, fenced with a white- rarity on the island, and whenever they visit here washed stone wall. The island appeared to us are followed about by a curious crowd. They like a little Paradise, and as some of our party have an eye to business, too, and eagerly offer had occasion to land here we waited eagerly sor their wares. A gentleman of our party met a their report.
woman on one of the streets with a goose in They were disappointed, however, with what her arms, which she wanted very much to sell ; but they saw, and found by experience the truth of the he concluded he did not care to purchase. The quotation, that "distance lends enchantment to numerous round hills upon the island which they the view.” The houses are much inferior to so carefully cultivate are nearly all flat upon the those on the other islands, and the inhabitants top, and often have a sunken basin, which looks seem to be miserably poor. The island is some- as though it might have been the crater of a thing of a farming region, and they make butter volcano at some remote period. It is an isolated
the third discovered in the central group, is somewhat larger than Fayal, and fully as attractive in its general appearance. Like most of its sisters, it has its sentinel mountain, Monte Brazil, which is joined at the mainland by a narrow strip of soil. Its chief city, Angra, is finely built, and has more pretension to elegance than any other of the island cities of the Atlantic. It is charmingly situated on the southern shore of the island, and has a good landing but not a very safe harbor. Being an open roadstead, with not always secure
anchorage, it is found, at some seasons of the year, to be difficult of access. It has some pretensions to literary culture, and a college, or advanced school, is located here.
The streets of Angra are wide, and the sidewalks commodious, which cannot be said of the other island cities. In most of them the sidewalks are reduced to the narrowest possible
limits, and one often is obliged to step into the street in order to pass a more than ordinary-sized person.
The country scenery in Terceira is lovely, and flourishing orange-groves abound. This fruit forms the only export of the island, and vast quantities of it are shipped to England.
St. Miguel, over seventy miles distant, is the largest island in the Azores, and in some respects the most lovely. The scenery is enchanting, and the soil is all under a fine state of cultivation. It is about fifty miles long, and perhaps twelve miles broad, and has the usual diversity of mountain and valley. It formerly had no secure anchorage,
and vessels were obliged to lay off in the Girls squatting i Cloak,
roadstead, and in case a gale of wind arose suddenly, slip their anchors and put out to sea. But a breakwater has been built at
great labor and expense, and now affords a spot in the ocean, and its inhabitants dwell in safe anchorage for the large fleet of whalemen and undisturbed solitude for the greater part of the merchant vessels that frequently seek the port of year.
Ponta Delgada, the principal city of the island. The island of Terceira, so named because it was This is really one of the finest cities under Portu