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where the banks of the valley gently incline, and the coverture of lofty woods afford a shelter from the north-eastern winds, stands the mansion, with a sloping lawn in front, com manding a comprehensive view of the enchanting valley ; which if Dryden could bug see, he would wish to recall the line,

“ God never made his works for man to mend."

On putting ourselves under the direction of the gardener, we were first led to the kitchengarden, furnished with extensive forcinghouses, and replete with every necessary appendage. The flower-garden also displayed its appropriate charms; but from these atchievements of art we turned, without regret, to where the bold hand of nature reared the scene in stupendous majesty ;

“ There along the dale, “ With woods o'erhung, and shagg:d with mossy rocks, “ Where on each hand the gushing waters play, “ And down the rough cascade white dashing fall," we passed, enamoured with the incessant though congenial variety of our subject. After visiting the cold bath, a small sequestered building, a mazy walk romantically traced by the side of a brawling torrent, and amidst

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tangled shrubberies, led to a small casa cade; and soon after a superior waterfall engaged our attention, where the whole volume of the Ystwith burst over a ledge of rocks in a composition truly grand and picturesque. But a scene of awful sublimity disclosed itself on exploring a dark cavernous passage in a rock and reaching its extremity, where a lofty cascade of transcendent beauty, throwing itself over a strata of black rocks, bounded close to the opening of the cave, and shrouded the aperture with its spray, as it became engulphed in a dark chasm beneath.

The towering mountains clothed with myriads of oaks, which environ this remarkable valley, afford a diversity of walks and combinations of view, to describe which words would be inadequate, and prove at best but tedious. A walk of twelve miles scarcely comprises a complete survey of the grounds, as we are told; but, being pressed for time, our perambulation was confined to a much smaller space; yet enough was seen to convince us that this is one of the most delightful rural retreats in the kingdom.

The mansion is a handsome modern edifice; in the Gothic style of architecture;

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which idea is perfectly consonant with the romantic cast of the scenery ; and the general outline of the building is certainly pleasing : but we were sorry that Col. Johnes had not been better advised in the execution of this design, which though we had read of, in one place, as built “ in the most currect taste,” and in another as “ a mansion in the Italian style,” we found to be a heterogeneous jumble; wherein a bastard sort of Greek and Saxon architecture was blended with the prevailing Gothic. The house internally we understood to be richly fitted up, and furnished with an excellent library, but did not visit it; for, though the demund of five shillings for the gardener's attendance was willingly paid, yet the same sum, which we found would be required by the housekeeper, appeared to us more than the show of

any Welch house was worth,

There always appears to me something very unworthy in great men allowing their servants to exact the sums that they do from the spectators of their grandeur; but, such emoluments are taken into the account of a servant's hire, and in some measure contribute to the support of the great man's establishment: as far as they do this, they indirectly form part of his' revenue ; and in that view I consider the Grandee as somewhat of a mercenary showman, however magnifique. A ride of nearly a mile extent, among

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delightful plantations, led us out of Hafod; when, crossing the Ystwith over å good stone bridge, we soon passed through a little romantic village on the road to Tregarron, from whence the country continued wild, without grandeur or interest, a succession of

« Barren heaths, and rushy meers,"

until the approach to Llandilo. In this midland route the hills were much less contin nuous than round the coast, and the valleys frequently extensive; but, overrun with peatbogs, they neither displayed fertility nor beauty. About half way to Tregarron, a few hundred yards to the right of the road, were two considerable hills, each crowned with a large ancient encampment: we did not stop to examine them, but quickly turned off the road, over moorlandson our left, in search of the remains of STARFLOWER or STRATA FLORIDA ABBEY. We had no track to direct us; nor

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did a human creature appear

for many

miles : after a fruitless wandering, therefore, we. gave up the object, with this consolation, that almost the only relic remaining is an ora namented circularly-arched gateway, Yet was this place, now lost in a trackless desert, once of high importance. Strata Florida Abbey (in British, Munachlog Ystrad flur) was founded anno 1164 for Cistertian Monks* by Rhesus Prince of South-Wales. In it many of the Welch Princes were buried, and their acts kept and recorded : it suffered considerably when Edward the First overran Wales, but was soon after repaired.

A sloppy ride brought us to TREGARRON; a poor straggling ill-built town, situated in an abrupt hollow watered by an arm of the Tivy; yet, plentifully interspersed with trees, it forms a pleasing relief to the surrounding dreariness. Its church is a respectable old building, and it boasts the dignity of a mayor. Our inn here afforded us a capacious dish of eggs and bacon for dinner; but, though it was not more than ordinarily strong and greasy for the wilds of Wales, we grew delicate, and,

* According to Tanner, Leland, and Dugdale. Camden says it was for Clupiacş.


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