England afterwards. It was at a Brownist's house, where we had an extraordinary good table. There was in pension with us my Lord Keeper, Finch, and one Sir J. Fotherbee. Here I also found an English Carmelite, who was going through Germany with an Irish gentleman. I now went to see the Weese-house, a foundation like our Charter-house, for the education of decayed persons, orphans, and poor children, where they are taught several occupations. The girls are so well brought up to housewifery, that men of good worth, who seek that chiefly in a woman, frequently take their wives from this hospital. Thence to the Rasphouse, where the lusty knaves are compelled to work; and the rasping of brasil and logwood for the dyers is very hard labour. To the Dool-house, for madmen and fools. But none did I so much admire, as an Hospital for their lame and decrepit soldiers and seamen, where the accommodations are very great, the building answerable; and, indeed, for the like public charities the provisions are admirable in this country, where, as no idle vagabonds are suffered (as in England they are), there is hardly a child of four or five 'years old, but they find some employment for it.'

It was on a Sunday morning that I went to the Bourse, or Exchange, after their sermons were ended, to see the Dog-market, which lasts till two in the afternoon, in this place of convention of merchants from all parts of the world. The building is not comparable to that of London, built by that worthy citizen, Sir Thomas Gresham, yet in one respect exceeding it, that vessels of considerable burthen ride at the very quay contiguous to it; and indeed it is by extraordinary industry that as well this city, as generally all the towns of Holland, are so accommodated with graffs,

1 Until the present edition of this Diary, the entry relating to the Amsterdam Hospital stood thus :-"But none did I so much admire as an hospital for their lame and decrepid soldiers, it being for state, order, and accommodations, one of the worthiest things that the world can show of that nature. Indeed it is most remarkable what provisions are here made and maintained for publick and charitable purposes, and to protect the poor from misery, and the country from beggars." The passage in the text is from Evelyn's own later correction. The reader will remember with some interest, in connection with this remark on the hospital of Amsterdam, that the first stone of Greenwich Hospital was afterwards laid by Evelyn.

cuts, sluices, moles, and rivers, made by hand, that nothing is more frequent than to see a whole navy, belonging to this mercantile people, riding at anchor before their very doors: and yet their streets even, straight, and well paved, the houses so uniform and planted with lime trees, as nothing can be more beautiful.

The next day, we were entertained at a kind of tavern, called the Briloft, appertaining to a rich Anabaptist, where, in the upper rooms of the house, were divers pretty waterworks, rising 108 feet from the ground. Here were many quaint devices, fountains, artificial music, noises of beasts, and chirping of birds; but what pleased me most was a large pendant candlestick, branching into several sockets, furnished all with ordinary candles to appearance, out of the wicks spouting out streams of water, instead of flames. This seemed then and was a rarity, before the philosophy of compressed air made it intelligible. There was likewise a cylinder that entertained the company with a variety of chimes, the hammers striking upon the brims of porcelain dishes, suited to the tones and notes, without cracking any of them. Many other water-works were shown.

The Keiser's or Emperor's Graft, which is an ample and long street, appearing like a city in a forest; the lime trees planted just before each house, and at the margin of that goodly aqueduct so curiously wharfed with Klincard brick, which likewise paves the streets, than which nothing can be more useful and neat. This part of Amsterdam is built and gained upon the main sea, supported by piles at an immense.

1 Some slight differences may be marked in the description of the Dutch towns as it stands in the earlier editions. These and other discrepancies are explained in the preface to the present edition; but it may be worth while, where the change does not simply consist, as for the most part is the case, in a more full and careful reproduction of the original text, but, as happens occasionally, in the substitution of Evelyn's later corrections for his earlier and less finished text, to preserve in these notes the text as first printed. sluices, moles, and rivers, that nothing is more frequent than to see a whole navy of merchants and others environ'd with streets and houses, every man's bark or vessel at anchor before his very door; and yet the street so exactly strait, even, and uniform, that nothing can be more pleasing, especially being so frequently planted and shaded with the beautiful lime-trees, set in rows before every man's house."

charge, and fitted for the most busy concourse of traffickers and people of commerce beyond any place, or mart, in the world. Nor must I forget the port of entrance into an issue of this town, composed of very magnificent pieces of architecture, some of the ancient and best manner; as are divers churches.1

The turrets, or steeples, are adorned after a particular manner and invention; the chimes of bells are so rarely managed, that being curious to know whether the motion was from any engine, I went up to that of St. Nicholas, where I found one who played all sorts of compositions from the tablature before him, as if he had fingered an organ; for so were the hammers fastened with wires to several keys put into a frame twenty feet below the bells, upon which (by help of a wooden instrument, not much unlike a weaver's shuttle, that guarded his hand) he struck on the keys and played to admiration. All this while, through the clattering of the wires, din of the too nearly sounding bells, and noise that his wooden gloves made, the confusion was so great, that it was impossible for the musician, or any that stood near him, to hear any thing himself; yet, to those at a distance, and especially in the streets, the harmony and the time were the most exact and agreeable.

The south church is richly paved with black and white

1 The description of the Briloft is thus given in the earlier editions: "There was a lamp of brass, with eight sockets from the middle stem, like those we use in churches, having counterfeit tapers in them, streams of water issuing as out of their wicks, the whole branch hanging loose upon a tack in the midst of a beam, and without any other perceptible commerce with any pipe, so that, unless it were by compression of the air with a syringe, I could not comprehend how it should be done. There was a chime of porcelain dishes, which fitted to clock-work and rung many changes and tunes." That of the Keiser's Graft stands thus: "The Keiser's Graft, or Emperor's Street, appears a city in a wood through the goodly ranges of the stately lime-trees planted before each man's door, and at the margin of that goodly aquæ-duct, or river, so curiously wharfed with clincars (a kind of white sun-bak'd brick), and of which material the spacious streets on either side are paved. This part of Amsterdam is gained upon the main sea, supported by piles at an immense charge. Prodigious it is to consider the multitude of vessels which continually ride before this City, which is certainly the most busy concourse of mortals now upon the whole earth. and the most addicted to commerce."

marble, the west is a new fabric; and generally all the churches in Holland are furnished with organs, lamps, and monuments, carefully preserved from the fury and impiety of popular reformers, whose zeal has foolishly transported them in other places rather to act like madmen than religious.

Upon St. Bartholomew's day, I went amongst the booksellers, and visited the famous Hondius and Bleaw's shop, to buy some maps, atlasses, and other works of that kind.i At another shop, I furnished myself with some shells and Indian curiosities; and so, towards the end of August, I returned again to Haerlem by the river, ten miles in length, straight as a line, and of competent breadth for ships to sail by one another. They showed us a cottage where, they told us, dwelt a woman who had been married to her twenty-fifth husband, and being now a widow, was prohibited to marry in future; yet it could not be proved that she had ever made away with any of her husbands, though the suspicion had brought her divers times to trouble.

Haerlem is a very delicate town, and hath one of the fairest churches of the Gothic design I had ever seen. There hang in the steeple, which is very high, two silver bells, said to have been brought from Damietta, in Egypt, by an earl of Holland, in memory of whose success they are rung out every evening. In the nave, hang the goodliest branches of brass for tapers that I have seen, esteemed of great value for the curiosity of the workmanship; also a fair pair of organs, which I could not find they made use of in divine service, or so much as to assist them in singing psalms, but only for show, and to recreate the people before and after their devotions, whilst the burgomasters were walking and conferring about their affairs. Near the west window hang two models of ships, completely equipped, in memory of that invention of saws under their keels, with which they cut through the chain of booms, which

The entry as to the booksellers is thus expressed in the earlier editions: "I went to Hundius's shop to buy some maps, greatly pleased with the designs of that indefatigable person. Mr. Bleaw, the Better forth of the Atlas's and other works of that kind, is worthy seeing."

barred the port of Damietta. Having visited this church, the fish-market, and made some inquiry about the printinghouse, the invention whereof is said to have been in this town, I returned to Leyden.

At Leyden, I was carried up to the castle, or Pyrgus, built on a very steep artificial mount, cast up (as reported) by Hengist the Saxon, on his return out of Engiand, as a place to retire to, in case of any sudden inundations.

The churches are many and fair; in one of them lies buried the learned and illustrious Joseph Scaliger, without any extraordinary inscription, who, having left the world a monument of his worth more lasting than marble, needed nothing more than his own name; which I think is all engraven on his sepulchre. He left his library to this University.

28th August. I went to see the college and schools, which are nothing extraordinary, and was complimented with a matricula by the magnificus Professor, who first in Latin demanded of me where my lodging in the town was, my name, age, birth, and to what Faculty I addicted myself; then, recording my answers in a book, he administered an oath to me that I should observe the statutes and orders of the University whilst I stayed, and then delivered me a ticket, by virtue whereof I was made excise-free; for all which worthy privileges, and the pains of writing, he accepted of a rix-dollar.

Here was now the famous Dan. Heinsius,' whom I so longed to see, as well as the no less famous printer, Elzevir's printing-house and shop, renowned for the politeness of the character and editions of what he has published through Europe. Hence to the physic-garden, well stored with exotic plants, if the catalogue presented to me by the gardener be a faithful register.

But, amongst all the rarities of this place, I was much

Daniel Hensius, a scholar and critic, who edited numerous editions of the Classics. He was chosen professor of history at Leyden; ther: secretary and librarian of the University. In 1619, he was appointed. secretary to the states of Holland, at the Synod of Dort; and the fame of his learning became so diffused, that the Pope endeavoured to draw him to Rome. He was made a Knight of St. Mark by the Republic of Venice, and the King of Sweden honoured him with the title of Cour sellor. He died in January, 1655. The Elzevir printers are well known.