Stones of Silence: Journeys in the Himalaya |
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Page 35
Brad House, a former curator of mammals at the Bronx Zoo, had joined me for
this trip to Chitral. At the Peshawar bazaar I had to find a taxi willing to take us the
1 20 miles to Dir, and after considerable haggling over the price, a driver agreed
to make the trip for the equivalent of twenty-five dollars. The car had a gasoline
leak which filled the inside with fumes, and the tires were so worn that we soon
had a flat. Then a wheel cracked. Although we had it welded at a village shop, we
soon ...
Brad House, a former curator of mammals at the Bronx Zoo, had joined me for
this trip to Chitral. At the Peshawar bazaar I had to find a taxi willing to take us the
1 20 miles to Dir, and after considerable haggling over the price, a driver agreed
to make the trip for the equivalent of twenty-five dollars. The car had a gasoline
leak which filled the inside with fumes, and the tires were so worn that we soon
had a flat. Then a wheel cracked. Although we had it welded at a village shop, we
soon ...
Page 52
At Dir we rented a jeep for the five-hour trip to Chitral town. The road, we were
told, was open. However, experience had taught me never to expect a routine trip
in the mountains. Approaching the Lowari Pass, we commented on the complete
absence of traffic from Chitral, and soon the reason became apparent: landslides,
boulders, and uprooted trees blocked the road in many places, the result of a
cloudburst the previous day. After digging and rolling debris aside, we finally ...
At Dir we rented a jeep for the five-hour trip to Chitral town. The road, we were
told, was open. However, experience had taught me never to expect a routine trip
in the mountains. Approaching the Lowari Pass, we commented on the complete
absence of traffic from Chitral, and soon the reason became apparent: landslides,
boulders, and uprooted trees blocked the road in many places, the result of a
cloudburst the previous day. After digging and rolling debris aside, we finally ...
Page 97
The trip was scheduled to take two days, driving round the clock, but near the
village of Patan a Chinese crew had obliterated the road with a dynamite blast.
One day's wait, we were told. A night passed and much of the next day as the
Chinese worked slowly and steadily, impervious, it seemed, to the traffic jam of
about a hundred trucks, their drivers increasingly impatient, that now lined both
sides of the obstacle. By late afternoon the impassive workmen prepared to
withdraw into ...
The trip was scheduled to take two days, driving round the clock, but near the
village of Patan a Chinese crew had obliterated the road with a dynamite blast.
One day's wait, we were told. A night passed and much of the next day as the
Chinese worked slowly and steadily, impervious, it seemed, to the traffic jam of
about a hundred trucks, their drivers increasingly impatient, that now lined both
sides of the obstacle. By late afternoon the impassive workmen prepared to
withdraw into ...
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Contents
Path to the Mountains | 1 |
Mountains in the Desert | 115 |
Cloud Goats | 150 |
Copyright | |
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ahead altitudes animals argali behavior bharal Bhote Kosi blue sheep boulders camp canyon Chitral Chitral Gol cliffs climb clouds crest cubs dark descend dhole Dolpo feet female forest Gilgit glacier gorge grass Gyaltsen habitat halt head herd hills Himalaya Himalayan tahr Hindu Hindu Kush horns hunting Hunza ibex India Indus Jang-bu Karakoram Karchat Khan kill lama Lapche leave livestock loads look males Marco Polo sheep markhor miles Misgar monastery morning mountains nearby Nepal night Nilgiri tahr once Pakistan pass peaks Pervez Peter Phu-Tsering plateau porters rams range reached remain retreat ridge Ringmo river road rock route sheep and goats Sherpas Shey Skardu slopes snow leopard soon species stone Tarakot tent Tibet Tibetan tiger trail trees trip tsampa urial valley vanished village walk walls watched wild goat wildlife wind winter wolves yaks young