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CONTENTS OF VOL. I.
CHAPTER I.
Departure from Brighton-Dieppe-Church of St. Jacques
-French Diligence, and Horses-Rouen-Bridge of
Boats
service
-
Cathedral-Monuments-Festival-Catholic
1
CHAPTER II.
Route to Paris-Magnificent entrance by la Barriere de
Neuilly-Boulevards-Triumphal Pillar-St. Cloud-
Mons. Denon, and his Collection-Luxembourg Palace,
and Pictures—Jardin du Roi, and Galleries—Animals
-Reflections on them-Anecdote of Lion and Dog.. 16
CHAPTER III.
Louvre-Napoleon - Tuileries Fete of St. Louis-
Water-works of Versailles-Cathedral of Notre Dame
and Crown of Thorns-La Morgue-Hopital des Inva-
lides St. Germain en Laye-Catacombs
CHAPTER IV.
Streets of Paris-Shop Signs-Fountains-French Cha-
racter, and Females
Advertising for Husbands
Living Cafes Theatres, and Tragedy - Tivoli
G
33
Palais Royal Gaming - Cemetery of Pere la
Chaise-Bibliotheque du Roi-French manners-Dress 46
CHAPTER V.
Scenery of Lausanne-Dole-Horrors of War-Geneva
-History, and its sumptuary Laws-Old Lausanne-
Lake of Geneva-Clarens-Vevay-Chillon and Bon-
nivard-Mont Blanc-Valley of Chamouni-Sublimi-
ties of Nature-Hunting the Chamois Goat
CHAPTER VI.
........
Dangerous expedition to Montanvert-Mer de Glace, and
the Jardin des Alpes-Source of the Arveron-Fatal
Avalanche on Mont Blanc-Poetical effusions-La
Tete Noire-Fatal inundation of Martigny-St. Ber-
nard and perilous ascent-The Dogs-Summary of
Expenses-Cretins
70
87
CHAPTER VII.
Simplon, and its grandeurs-Lago Maggiore-Isola Madre
—Isola Bella, and Palaces-Bonaparte's Laurel Tree—
St. Carlo Borromeo, and his Colossal Statue-Milan-
Observations-Triumphal Arch-Festival dell' An-
gelo Custode-La Scala, Opera, and Signora Pallerini 110
CHAPTER VIII.
Milan-Summary of Ancient History, and Modern Go-
vernment-Cathedral, Statues, &c. and sumptuous
Subterranean Chapel of St. Carlo Borromeo-Church
of San Celso, and Miracles-Academy of Arts-Raphael
-Leonardo Da Vinci's Last Supper-Full-dressed Vir-
gin-Streets of Milan-Theatres-Infamous Column 127
CHAPTER IX.
Como-Cathedral-Lake of Como-Pedlars-Queen of
England and her Villa-Pliny's Villa and intermitting
Fountain The Sommariva and Lodi Palaces-Lake
by Moonlight-Plains of Milan--Amphitheatre—Co-
ronation of Napoleon-Extraordinary Echo-Grand
Corso-Expenses to Genoa
CHAPTER X.
... 142
Pavia-Monastery of La Certosa-Sumptuous Chapels—
Battle of Pavia—University-Bridge over the Tessin,
CONTENTS.
and ancient description of that River-Boethius-An-
cient Genoa-Marengo-The Po, and Fable of Phaeton
-Valley of Polcivera-Genoa-Summary of Ancient,
and Modern History-Andrew Doria, and Revolution
effected by him in 1528-Conspiracy of Lewis Fiesco
in 1547-Doria Palace-Columbus...
CHAPTER XI.
Ducal Palace Church of St. Ambrose-Church and
Bridge of Sa. Maria di Carignano-Hospital of Incur-
ables-Palazzo Serra, and Saloon of the Sun-Palazzo
Durazzo-Ditto of Andrew Doria-Cathedral of St.
Lawrence-Emerald Dish-Pictures in the Brignole
Palace-Arsenal-Roman Prow-Sculpture by Mi-
chael Angelo-Streets, Houses, &c. of Genoa-Genoese
Character-Inn of La Croce di Malta―Theatres .... 173
CHAPTER XII.
Leghorn-Bronze Slaves-Burial Ground-Quarantine-
Passage to and Gulf of Spezzia-Pisa, and Summary
of History-Leaning Tower-Cathedral-Baptistery
-Campo Santo, and Ancient Pictures-Church of
Santa Maria Della Spina-University-Baths of St.
Julian-Count Ugolino-Lucca-Summary of History
-Cathedral, and Miracle-Amphitheatre-Prato, and
under garment of the Virgin Mary...
CHAPTER XIII.
Florence Origin and History-Factions of the Guelphs
and Ghibellines-Summary of the History of the
Medici-Lorenzo the Magnificent-Conspiracy of 1478
-Murder of Giovanni-Bull of Sixtus IV.-Death of
Lorenzo-Government by Savonorala, the Preacher-
Popes Leo X, and Clement VII-Medicean Arms-
Succession and Fate of the various Medici till extinct
in 1737- Successive Governments by Austria and
France-Fæsulæ, and Antiquities-Church of St. Law-
188
rence, and Michael Angelo-Poetical Addresses-
Sumptuous Mausoleum of the Medici-Laurentian
Library-Galileo's Finger-Church of the Annunci-
ation, and Miracle—Andrea del Sarto.
CHAPTER XIV.
Gallery of Florence-John of Bologna's Mercury, and
Rape of the Sabines-Cellini's Perseus-The Tribune
-Venus de' Medici, with other Sculptures-Pictures
by Guercino-Raphael, &c.-Titian's Venus-Hall of
"Niobe Etruscan and Roman Relics Michael An-
gelo's Brutus, and Epigrams-Mosaic Tables-Hall of
Portraits-Medicean Vase-Hermaphrodite-Claude-
Leonardo da Vinci-Cabinet of Gems-Early Paint-
ings-Gabinettó Fisico-Plague in Wax-Pitti Palace
-Pictures by Salvator Rosa-Rubens-Cigoli, &c. &c.
-Raphael's Holy Families-Guido's Cleopatra-Grand
Duchess's Bath-Alabaster Columns
CHAPTER XV.
Santa Croce-Dante; his Tomb at Ravenna-Life and
Writings-Michael Angelo's Tomb, and Alfieri's Re-
flections upon it-Alfieri's Tomb, and Pasquinade-
Machiavelli and Galileo-Discovery of the true Cross-
Cathedral, and Sacred Synods-Campanile-Baptistery
and Bronze Doors-Canova's Venus-The Cocomero
Theatre Tacchinardi and Bonini-Rossini-Reflec-
tions on Music-Vallombrosa-Romantic Seclusion, and
Poetical Sketch-Origin, and Ancient Legend-Visited
by Milton-Extract from him
--
CHAPTER XVI.
Mozzi Palace-Benvenuti's Picture-Poggi Palace-Mi-
chael Angelo's Adonis-Boboli Gardens-The Grand
Duke at the Play-Countess of Albany, and Alfieri-
Florence Sculpture-Bartolini, and Charges upon send-
ing two Vases to England-Departure for Rome-
209
236
253
Sienna-The Cathedral-Antique Mosaic-Popes-
Grecian Graces-Baths of St. Peter at La Scala-Sul-
phur Caves- Natural Cameos, &c.. Radicofani-
Ancient Volscium-Bolsena, and Basalt Columns-
Baccano Rome-Sketch of the Journey, and Expenses 269
CHAPTER XVII.
Porta
Rome and reflections on-S -St. Peter's-Piazza-Colonnades
-Egyptian Obelisk - Fountains - Vestibule
Santa-Interior-Dimensions-Tomb of St. Peter-
High Altar-Cupola-Monuments-St. Peter's Statue
-History of its erection-Observations-Theatre of
Marcellus-Julia, daughter of Augustus-Church of
St. Paul (without the Walls)-Ditto of St. Sebastian
-Miracle-Catacombs-Tomb of Cecilia Metella, and
Poetical Fiction-Tomb of the Scipios-Fountain of
Egeria-Numa Pompilius-Circus of Caracalla-Cha-
rioteering, &c.—Canova, and his Sculptures-Perseus
-Creugas and Damoxenus Thorwaldson, and com-
parison with Canova-Process of Sculpture...
CHAPTER XVIII.
Palaces and Pictures-Doria-Rospigliosi, and Guido's
Aurora-Barberini-Colonna-Spada, and Pompey's
Statue-Churches-St. Lawrence in Lucina-St. Pe-
ter in Vinculis-Michael Angelo's Moses, and Mira-
culous Chains-St. Cosmo and St. Damien, with Mira-
cle-Temple of Remus-St. John Lateran, and Obelisk
-Corsini Chapel-Holy Relics-Sacred Staircase and
mode of ascent
283
315
CHAPTER XIX.
Historic Summary of Papacy and Papal Government-
Pius VII-Extraordinary Pretensions of the Pontiffs-
Alexander III and Emperor Barbarossa-Rise of the
Reformation-Martin Luther-" Indulgences," and
purchase of Crimes-State of the Clergy of fifteenth
century-Expense of certain Crimes-Flagellation-