18 Approach to Paris. trees, and fading perspective, much gratify the traveller's and the painter's eye. At length the city bursts upon the view. The spirits are elated with the consciousness of being now in a capital celebrated throughout the globe― a capital for so many years an object of intense interest, though a forbidden one, to an Englishman, and where an ardent mind, or at least a pleasurehunting spirit, can look in upon itself, and think; "Here, be my taste what it may; here shall it be gratified." Spires, and domes, and turrets, tower in the air, and we pass the Barrière de Neuilly, formed by two corresponding military stone lodges, porticoes on each side, and massy Doric columns. Through quadruple rows of elms, and at one and the same point, are seen the Champs Elysées, thronged in the evening shades by elégantes, and loungers, and dancers ;-the massive gilded dome of the Hôpital des Invalides, the vast royal residence of the Tuileries, viewed through its range of public gardens, and adorned with vases, statues, columns; and the wide-expanding Place Louis Quinze, with its two striking groups of nobly sculptured horses;-on the right we behold the quays, the many bridges, the beautiful façade, and graceful colonnade, of the Palais Bourbon;—on the left, the long and lofty Garde-Meuble, with its unrivalled Corinthian front; while still advancing, the Rue Royale is terminated by the sumptuous Triumphal Pillar. 19 Eglise de la Madelaine. Traversing the Place Vendome, who can pass by, and view with indifference, that monument of art and glory erected and dedicated by Napoleon to his triumphant armies, but which is yet more striking from the late reverses? -a pillar on the model of that of Trajan at Rome, which, when crowned with the statue of Napoleon, rose to the height of 140 feet; cased, from the base upwards, with bassi relievi in bronze, representing, in chronological order, the achievements of the Emperor, and his armies. This triumphal pillar, so memorable to Bonaparte, so flattering to the French nation, and so honourable to the arts, was begun in 1807, and completed in 1810, chiefly under the direction of Mons. Denon. It is further ornamented with eagles, arms, and other appropriate trophies, and consecrated by this inscription Napoleon Imp. Aug. Monumentum Belli Germanici, Trimestri spatio, ductû suo, profligati, Ex ærê capto Gloria exercitus maximi Proceeding still further through the Rue de la Napoleon the Great, Emperor, has dedicated to the glory of his army this monument, formed from the cannon captured from the enemy, in the German war of 1805, and which war was concluded by him in the space of three months. Pair, the Boulevards are traversed, and these are as striking a feature as any yet mentioned. Reached in the cooler evening of a sultry summer's day, countless throngs here flock to lounge, to chat, to promenade, and perhaps their amazing numbers may be the first impression on arrival. The glitter and bustle of the shops in endless perspective, all lit up, is beautifully shadowed and contrasted by the intervening foliage of the tranquil trees, while secondary streams of lengthened illuminations are poured from the lights upon innumerable stalls, trestles, &c. that line the street. Here for the amusement of certain classes are savoyards, tumblers, legerdemain, punch, ballad singers, petty retail dealers, pictures, prints, books, traffic of every sort, shews and games, " in sweet confusion intermixed." These mingle and are contrasted with noble hotels, and the triumphal gates, St. Denis, and St. Martin, in an avenue of two miles. Baths, pavilions, cafés the most splendid, Chinese, Turkish, or oriental, whose sumptuous saloons, equally with the tables in the open air before their respective doors, are perpetually crowded by genteel and gay company partaking of ice, punch, sherbet, or liqueurs. Pleasure is the pursuit, and Luxury is her hand-maid; but how inviting to have at will the glitter of the crowded, gay saloon, or to retire to the shady seat, for whispering made, and fanned by the evening breeze. In fine, whether inclined to promenade, to lounge, to talk, to dance, to court, to regale, or only to observe;-here you may be gratified; and in passing on the outside of a diligence, through such a host of attractions, one might well be excused if tempted to jump off; though uncertain and distracted where to fix. Yesterday, Sunday, I had determined to pay my respects to the English Ambassador, Sir Charles Stuart. As soon as the service, performed in his chapel according to the Protestant mode, was concluded, and which is open to all the English, I presented my introductory letter. His Excellency did me the honour to converse some short time, and very politely promised me his assistance in obtaining any particular object, or sight, I might desire while in France; though I have not hitherto needed to avail myself of his offer. I then extended my ride to St. Cloud, distant about five miles, and went over perhaps one of the most magnificently furnished palaces in Europe. His Majesty's footmen, in dress liveries, are in attendance to conduct visitors, and you parade through suites of rooms, not more regally and sumptuously furnished, than tastefully and appropriately diversified. The picture-gallery contains some of the choicest specimens of the ancient and modern art. The presence-chamber, or throne, the hall of marshals, the drawing-rooms, anti rooms, bed-rooms, baths, &c. are each fitted up with purple velvet and gold, or green and gold, or blue and silver, or white satin, &c., as seems most gorgeous for the dignity of the monarch and his princes, or most delicate and suitable for the princesses and their maids of honour. Golden clocks of the most elaborate workmanship, the choicest silver cabinets, tables, vases, and urns of the rarest marbles, tapestry, velvet couches, and sumptuous beds, with porcelaine of native manufacture, and of unparalleled price, are dispersed throughout. This palace was a favourite residence of Bonaparte; and its natural beauties render it worthy of its artificial additions. From the espla nade may be seen a panoramic view of the whole of Paris; the prospect bounded by the most expansive and verdant landscape, till lost in the furthest horizon. In the gardens are various and corresponding jets d'eau, with the celebrated grand cascade, representing a river God, and a Nymph, implying the union of the Seine and the Marne, from whom issue two immense sheets of water, which tumble from shell-work terraces, to the number of nine, till united in one central basin below. As the evening shades advance the Parisians form parties for quadrilles in the gardens, and dance to the music provided by the proprietors of the cafés for the day. To-day I have been introduced to Mons. Denon, |
