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A practice prevails in Genoa of painting the outside of palaces in fresco; first introduced at Venice by Giorgioni. Saints large as life, trelliswork; urns; columns; arches; and all the appendages of the windows, &c. &c. painted in the gaudiest colours. To my eye, even when fresh, they appear unmeaning, and quite out of character; moreover the order, and style, of the painted architecture is frequently in opposition to that of the building; but when I see them as they now are, almost all half decayed and in tatters, the effect is revolting; so closely connected are these daubs with the windows, and porches, that the entire front of the house naturally seems in ruins. The interior of all the churches is also in this style. Every arch, dome, coving, and pannel, is painted in staring colours, and gilt at every corner. Viewed collectively the effect is nothing but glare, and totally in opposition to the first principle of a church :-solemnity;-besides conveying the same ideas of general ruin from the decay consequent upon damp, &c. and, when viewed in portions, many of them are but sorry productions.

The streets of Genoa are miserably narrow; the houses monstrously high, with six or seven ranges of windows, including the mezzanini. Marble, chiefly white, abounds, and is seen in staircases, balustrades, and balconies; even in inus, and inferior houses.


Genoa generally.

"Genoa the Proud" seems, now-a-days, to have little left to merit such an epithet. Three streets there are, the Strada Nuova, Strada Nuovissima, and Strada Balbi, whose perspective presents one rich view of palaces, and regal halls, monuments. of the former wealth, and splendour, of the Genoese merchants; and which may justify the assertion of a celebrated authoress that they seemed built for a Congress of Kings.


The interior courts too, with their fountains, gardens, statues, terraces, are worthy of the lofty piles of architecture to which they form the first But the city generally is dirty, narrow, and irregular; and the best houses habitable only in the upper stories; the basements being occupied by the meanest shops, tressels, and stalls, and the stairs you have to ascend intruded upon by itinerant tailors, or tinkers, or even by those still more unhappy beings who have no other house than the entrance to yours, no other living, than beggary.

Nevertheless Genoa must rank as one of the principal cities of Italy, and there are many habitations, and many points of view, in which all that is little is lost, and all that is grand, and gratifying to the eye, either in the proud erections of man, or in the boundless view of nature, only are seen. To explore the noble port, harbour, and lighthouse; to examine the fortifications, and

Genoese Character.


to take the entire promenade of the ramparts will prove some of the attractions of Genoa, though its beauties are best collected in one point of view by an excursion out to sea, at the distance of about two miles.

In character the Genoese have been accused of deceit, and cheating.

It were indeed an injustice on my part to echo this imputation, since I have experienced nothing but fair-dealing, and openness. An unfortunate line of Virgil is too often quoted, applied by him in those days to the Ligurians, and still attempted to be fixed as the character of the modern Genoese. "Dum fata fallere sinebant" (cheat while they can). Also from Ausonius-" Fallaces Ligures -(the fraudful Ligurians); and again from 11th Eneid of Virgil.

Vane Ligur, frustráque animis elate superbis
Necquicquam patrias tentâsti lubricus artes;
Nec fraus te incolumem fallaci perferet Auno.

Vain are thy arts, and empty is thy pride;
Deceitful Genoese! the virgin cried;

Thy native arts, and frauds, shall nought obtain,
Nor wily Aunus see thee safe again.


With respect to the fair sex, it is said that Cecisbeism prevails here as much as in any other country of Italy.

Their general costume in the streets is the Mezzaro, a sort of a muslin veil, of about two yards

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long, thrown gracefully over the head, and shoulders, admirably adapted, and practised, to all the finesses, and coquetry, of concealment, or the partial exposure, of feminine charms.

I am also inclined to notice the inn we are atLa Croce di. Malta. Our Salle à Manger is handsome, but our bed-rooms are most superior, spacious and lofty; with a dome, the compartments of which are painted according to the Italian mode. Dinner, I may justly say, is luxurious, and always varied. We pay the price they asked, and find the greatest civility and attention.

Breakfast one franc and a half. Dinner four francs. Room two francs.

But little amusement here. One theatre only open; St. Augustino; very spendid dresses, but the performance tedious, owing to incessant declamation.

25th Inst. A specimen of the play bill of to-night for the benefit of Signora Carolina Internari. First, a long eulogium on her extraordinary merits; then the following attractions besides the play of Dido from Metastasio, and a musical farce.

The said Prima Donna to make her entrance to the sound of martial instruments, at which moment also two white doves descend from the ceiling, and suspend a crown over her head, while there falls a shower of odes and sonnets, to her honour, all printed on satin.

A Ligurian Sybill prophecies to her increasing

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fame, in the Genoese dialect. A shower of gold and silver. At the end of the play, a flight of doves.

On this occasion the exterior of the house will be additionally lighted; and the interior will be illuminated with forty crystal chandeliers; also adorned with white draperies, and festoons of gold, and flowers.

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