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to her shrine appeases her conscience by paying a sou for a tallow candle, which is sold in the church for that purpose ; and on particular days, as, recently, on the festival of the Assumption of the Virgin, longer tallows than usual implied greater devotion ; nor was there hardly room to stick them. These are of course suffered to burn out; but as there is a perpetual succession of devotees, the candles are flaming at various altars all day long. Penny pots of artificial flowers ; little prints or pictures; faded silvered wreaths, and so forth, are also conspicuous. Yesterday, being the anniversary of the vow of Louis Treize, was observed throughout France as a particular festival. The shops were more generally shut than on Sunday, and it would appear by the dress and prevailing gaiety of the Bourgeoisie to have been a prime holiday. In the morning the national guard marched into the cathedral, and their band played during mass ;-their music was to me any thing but harmonious; and the character any thing but sacred. The vestments of the Catholic priests are exceedingly varied, and rich, according to rank. The boy choristers wear over a red gown, which trails upon the ground, a transparent white vest buttoned up to the throat; having their heads shaved perfectly bare. Other orders of priests have black silken vests under transparent white, terminating in broad lace-higher degrees, a mantle, deep
collar, stiff with embroidery of gold, and flowers. The Archbishop, who himself officiated on this particular occasion, was a truly venerable and pious-looking old man. His robes were of white satin, with a broad embroidered gold band thrown across the shoulder, and reaching very low down. His golden archiepiscopal mitre was occasionally taken off his head, and returned by attendant priests, who also supported his train when he walked, and his robe on each side. The crook, the crucifix, the incense, &c. were of course in the procession, and in the evening were accompanied by an immense concourse of military, priests, and people.
The Suisse, or head beadle, who preceded the ministry on this occasion, was also very conspicuous, having red breeches, waistcoat, and stockings, buckles, blue military coat, and gold lace, cocked hat, and white feather; broad embroidered band reaching from shoulder to knee; sword, and staff. He is the only person who retains his hat on his head. The ordinary and perpetual chaunting of the choir, with their one bassoon, and the people, is to me the gruffest discord my ears can be assailed with; but when the organ breaks upon the ear, when its soft breathing melody steals into the soul, or when its loud and deep tongued chords peal through the lengthened aisle, and pierce the lofty vault, religion seems then to speak to man with Heaven's own voice,
To the preceding account of Roman Catholic rites and ceremonies, I have nothing more to add as distinct from our own religious observances, excepting that, there not being any pews, the only seats are plain matted chairs. Many hundreds of these are piled up in the church, private property, and consequently when inclined to sit, two sous are paid for a chair. There is an ordinance of the police affixed in the church to regulate the placing, price, &c. but it is only on particular church services, I believe, that it is imperative to pay; on ordinary days one may take a chair at will. On certain pillars also are stuck up printed notices of things lost or found in church; also of religious books to be sold, and regular advertisements of approaching fasts and festivals. No Catholic enters or quits the sacred walls without first dipping his finger in the Bénitier, and crossing himself with the holy water ; repeating the usual prayer.
ROUTE TO PARIS-MAGNIFICENT ENTRANCE BY LA BARRIERE
DE NEUILLY BOULEVARDS TRIUMPHAL PILLAR ST. CLOUD-MONS. DENON, AND HIS COLLECTION-LUXEMBOURG PALACE, AND PICTURES JARDIN DU ROI, AND GALLERIES ANIMALS-REFLECTIONS ON THEM ANECDOTE OF LION
FRIDAY.-Rose at four o'clock to start precisely at five for Paris, going by the lower road, a distance rather greater than by the upper; yet for such a length of ride, being ninety miles, strikingly picturesque and diversified.
The Seine is crossed at four or five different points, and is scarcely concealed throughout the day. Its many meanders and windings are truly beautiful; and it is in this route that it shows to the greatest advantage its broad bosom, in one view laden with navigation and produce, and in another, studded with little islands, that arise amidst its waves as if by magic wand, and which art and labour have further embellished with avenues of lofty poplars and elms; summer retreats and gardens; besides reserving many acres for the produce of corn and pulse, &c. Throughout this road habitations are far more numerous than by way of Calais. Farms, manufactories, and chateaux, abound.
As is too common in France, nowhere can the
diligence stop, without an immediate host of clamorous beggars. The young, the old, the blind, the sick, and the lame, all pour upon you to pain by the ocular evidence of their various sufferings. I was much shocked at Mantes by one unhappy poor girl, not more than eighteen, and of dirty appearance, though not unpleasing features, who regularly, after most pathetically imploring “ La charité; pour la grace de Dieu, la charité," as immediately burst into loud laughter.-Incurable, though harmless, madness!
The last five miles bring you to the barriers of the capital by a road whose general prospects and magnificence are, I should think, really unrivalled. Throughout the journey, the road is very wide, and, according to French fashion, almost entirely with a central pavé. Thus there is always a summer and a winter way; always the alternative, according to preference, of the dusty, but easy, road; or the rattling, yet surer, stones. Fruit trees, accessible to all passers by, line the high road frequently for miles; though perhaps the most pleasing sight to an unaccustomed English eye, is the range of fields teeming with the luxuriant vines, reared in the open air, and trailing in graceful foliage on poles, somewhat in the manner of our hops. In the nearer approach to Paris, the road assumes a width sufficient for eight or nine carriages abreast, sometimes a mile long, whose shady avenues of