the Creed and Lord's Prayer, dated 1035, and curious. The Perp. font has a very remarkable cover. The original tabernacle work has been altered at some uncertain time. The interior is painted in a singular manner, temp. Queen Anne (?). The lower part represents the baptism of Our Lord. There are also two scenes from the temptation, in which the Devil wears a red robe and a golden crown; and in one panel a forest scene, with animals. Above are the Evangelists with their emblems, and the mysterious inscription-"Voce Pater. Natus Corpore. Flamen ave. Mat. 3." The upper part of the canopy has red and white roses. On the outside, groups of shafts, painted black, with gold streaking, support the rich tabernacle work-painted black, white, and gold. The nave and aisles of the ch. are battlemented; the battlements have disappeared from the chancel. The tower, very massive, with diminishing buttresses, and of great size below, may have been built, like that at Howden, in Yorkshire, as a refuge in case of flood. [The Ch. of Tilney All Saints may be reached from Terrington Stat., whence it is 1 m. S.W. This is a very fine Norm, and Trans. ch., and the effect on entering at the W. door is most striking. It has been lately restored, and with great judgment. As at present arranged, there is a nave of 6 bays beyond the W. tower. The first or westernmost hay is pointed. The others have circular arches with plain soffetes, receding in 2 orders. The piers on the S. side are all circular, with leaf and other ornaments; the bases square, with rounded mouldings. On the N. side all the piers are round except 2, formed by clustered, engaged shafts. The volute which appears in the capitals indicates their late (Transitional) character. There is [Essex, &c.] a Perp. clerestory, and a fine Perp. open roof-a double hammer-beam, much enriched with figures, angels bearing shields and others. The chancel roof is plainer, and is modern. The angels here bear shields with the emblems of Our Lord's Passion. The aisle windows are all Perp. The nave has been newly and well seated in oak, and the pulpit and reading-desk (modern) are of very good carved oak. There is a screen across chancel and aisles. That dividing the chancel aisles from the nave is Perp. That in the centre is Jacobean, with the date 1618, an unusual example of so late a period. Over it are the royal arms with the letters A. R., and the date 1711. The present chancel is of 2 bays, with round arches. In the easternmost bay are 2 round-headed arches close together in the wall, which may have been windows. The sedilia and piscina and the E. window are Perp. There are other indications of ancient work in the wall close under the roof, possibly of a Norm, clerestory. The font is very late Perp., with inscriptions, perhaps Elizabethan. The westernmost bay of the nave and the tower arch are E. E. The tower itself is E. E., with Dec. uppermost story, and a Dec. spire. In the churchyard are many fine and picturesque ash-trees; and here until recently (it is now moved into the ch., at the W. end of the N. nave aisle) was a grave slab with a cross and circle round it, pointed out as a memorial of the giant Hickathrift or Hickafric, who, according to tradition, won the liberty of the Smeeth for the 7" towns" of the Marshland. The Smeeth (smethe (A.-S.) = smooth, level) is a tract of very fertile common land, stretching S. of Tilney, on which at one time constantly grazed 30,000 sheep. It is still most productive; and it has been said that if you lay a wand over night on the sward of the Smeeth, you will not P discern it in the morning, so rapidly | giant, is built into the outer wall at the junction of the chancel and the N. aisle. There are 2 circular holes in the N. and S. walls of the chancei opposite to each other, which tradi tion says were made by a ball kicked by the above mentioned hero. There is a tumulus near the ch. There is some good stained glass in this ch. does the grass grow. The outsiders, according to the story, attempted to possess themselves of portions of this Smeeth; but Hickathrift, "a person of extraordinary stature and courage, took an axle-tree from a cart instead of a sword; and the wheel for his buckler; and being so armed, most stoutly repelled those bold invaders." In confirmation of the story the sculpture on the grave slab was supposed to represent the giant's axletree and cart-wheel, a curious example of the adaptation of local facts to local legend. Hickathrift probably represents some very ancient Anglian hero. His story somewhat resembles that of Grettir in the Saga, and that of " der junge Riese" in Grimm: and the localisation of it here is a sufficient proof (in addition to the ch.) that this part of the Marshland was reclaimed and colonised at an carly period.] The next station is at 8 m. Walpole St. Peter's, a very pretty village in a grove of trees, possessing one of the finest Perp. churches in Norfolk. Its S. porch is a fine example of this style, in 2 stories, enriched with tracery, coats of arms, and nichework, and having the roof elaborately groined. The font, octagonal 1532, is inscribed round the foot with the appropriate legend, "Thynk and Thank.' Within, the light open screenwork of wood and the seats with open backs deserve notice. The chancel is a lanthorn of glass, the space between the windows occupied by large and fine niches. The front of its stalldesks retains its original painting of saints. The chancel is elevated in an unusual manner above the nave; underneath is a passage richly groined, with beautiful bosses. The S. doorway is richly carved; a figure of a satyr, supposed to be Roman, called by the country people "Hickathrift," the traditional local Walpole, whence the ancestors of Sir Robert Walpole derived their sur name, is supposed to record the marsh or pool formed within the sea-dyke (wall) in this neighbourhood. (Aboutm. nearer Lynn is Walpole St. Andrew's, a smaller Perp. ch., but also of great elegance: clerestory windows continuous; tower of brick. There is built into the tower a curious cell, supposed to have been the abode of a hermit. St. Goderic, who lived in the Conqueror's days, was born here, and, after many pilgrimages to Rome and Jerusalem, founded the Abbey of Finchale, in Durham. 11 m. Sutton Bridge Stat. The bridge here across the Nene was erected in 1851 from the designs of R. Stephenson and Mr. Borthwick. and is contrived to afford a wider waterway for both navigation and drainage than the old bridge. It has 2 clear openings, each of 60 ft. span; the lower part being of wood, the upper of iron. It cost about 18,000l. The tide rises 22 ft. This bridge was the latest improvement made in connection with the Nene Outfall, a tidal channel, formed in 1830, for a distance of 6 m. as a direct outlet for the passage of the waters of the Nene into the sea. Its width is between 200 and 300 ft.; its depth 24 ft.; and it affords a safe navigation at all times of the tide for vessels drawing 6 ft. water, up to Wisbech, in place of a precarious and circuitous passage by the old channel now blocked up, which was practicable only at spring tides. The embankment and out At the same time and in connection with the Nene Outfall, the Sutton Washway (some distance lower down than the bridge) was constructed. fall were executed under the direc- at ch.-for it was Sunday morning tions of Messrs. Rennie and Telford, that the waters were running; at a cost of 200,000l. The benefits when immediately the whole flocked derived from this undertaking are out, parson and all, to see the great not limited to the increased facilities sight, and acknowledge the blessings of transport by water, the security of science.' Smiles Engineers,' of a land passage, and the acquisi-ii. 471. tion of many thousand acres from the sea; besides these, the effect of straightening the course of the Nene has been to deepen the bed of that main outlet by not less than 10 ft. in its course across more than 100,000 acres of the Fens, between the Nene and the Welland. Owing to this the drains in the Fen districts, called the North Level and Wisbech Hundred (containing 48,000 acres), have been also deepened and extended, and by this means a complete drainage is effected by natural means in a large district previously only inefficiently drained by windmills and even by steam-engines. These fens thus retain nothing of their former character: pestilential sterility is now exchanged for luxuriant fertility. The danger of inundation from upland floods and of rupture of dykes along the banks of the Nene is of course materially diminished by the freer passage thus given to the waters. "Mr. Telford himself, toward the close of his life, spoke with natural pride of the improvements which he had thus been in so great a measure instrumental in carrying out, and which had so materially promoted the comfort, prosperity, and welfare of a very extensive district. We may mention, as a remarkable effect of the opening of the new outfall, that in a few hours the lowering of the waters was felt throughout the whole of the Fen level. The sluggish and stagnant drains, cuts, and leams in far distant places, began actually to flow; and the sensation created was such that at Thorney, near Peterborough, some 15 m. from the sea, the intelligence penetrated even to the congregation In order to pass directly from Norfolk into Lincolnshire, it was formerly necessary to traverse a part of the tidal estuary called the Cross Keys Wash, by a dangerous ford, crossing the sands at low water. The Sutton Washway, constructed by Telford, is a magnificent dyke or embanked road of earth, nearly 2 miles long, which carries the road across the Wash, and excludes the sea from a tract of fertile land, 1500 acres in extent (besides which 4000 acres more are in progress of recovery). The salt-marshes outside, though covered by the sea at high tide up to the base of the causeway, yet furnish excellent pasture to many thousand sheep and cattle, which retreat of their own accord before the advancing waters. over It was in crossing the Wash here (1216) that King John lost a great part of his army, with his baggage and valuables. They were taken by the tide, and the King himself only escaped with life though the knowledge of an experienced guide. On the rt. or Lincolnshire bank of the Nene is a building called King John's House, at which he is said to have tarried after his escape. It is, as might be expected, a building of much later date. Close to the bridge over Nene Outfall is the Bridge Inn. The Nene is the boundary here between Norfolk and Lincoln. There is rich arable land on the borders of the Nene, and among other crops woad is here cultivated. It requires the richest soil that can be found, and three or four crops may be grown in succession, after which there must be a change. The buildings for the woad manufacture are so constructed as to be shifted from place to place. The woad is dried after being gathered, is crushed to a pulp by teethed wooden rollers, allowed to heat, and then made up into balls and dried. From the Sutton Bridge Junct., a short branch line runs southward to Wisbech (see CAMBRIDGE, Rte. 37). The line follows the Nene, and passes, 1., the churches of West Walton and Walsoken, both in the Norfolk Marshland; but best visited from Wisbech. The Ch. of All Saints, Walsoken, 1 m. from Wisbech, is one of the most curious and beautiful in the east of England, with a Norm. porch, deeply sunk in rich mouldings. The tower is partly E. Eng., and partly Dec. The Norm. interior is distinguished by the varied mouldings of rich frets and zigzags of its low arches, resting on piers round and angular alternately. The chancel arch, though pointed, has rich Norm. mouldings. In the chancel is a Norm. piscina, and a mural monument erected by Archbp. Herring to his parents. The Archbishop was educated at Wisbech Grammar Sch. The ch. has a great deal of rich wood screen-work, of Perp. character; also a very remarkable Perp. font, ornamented on 7 of its 8 sides with sculptured imagery of the Sacraments of the Roman Church. It bears this prayer for the donors, "Remember the souls of J. Honyter and Margaret his wife." West Walton Ch., 3 m. from Wisbech, is a remarkably fine specimen of E. Eng., a shell left unfinished, and afterwards completed by Perp. additions. It is now somewhat dilapidated. It will be appreciated, however, by the architect and antiquary. Its noble bell-tower, detached from the ch. on the S.; the S. porch, of Trans. Norm. date, and unusual; the W. door, divided by a single shaft: the clustered nave piers, with detached and banded shafts of Purbeck marble; the finely wrought capitals and niches in the choir are all of extraordinary beauty, and exhibit in perfection all the characteristics of the style, the toothed ornament, nailhead, and others. The clerestory forms a beautiful line of arches. There is a good font, of later date than the church, and an effigy of a Prior of Ely in the building. [Islington, 4 m. W.S.W. from Lynn, between Lynn and Wisbech, is beyond doubt the place referred to in the old ballad of the Bailiff's Daughter of Islington,' preserved in Percy's 'Reliques of Ancient English Poetry.'] ROUTE 31. KING'S LYNN TO ELY BY DOWNHAM MARKET. (Branch of Great Eastern Railway.) (The distance (27 m.) is performed in little more than 1 hr.) Quitting the stat. at Lynn, the rly. runs for some distance parallel with the Eau Brink Cut, a remarkable artificial channel made for the rive Ouse, at the suggestion and under the direction of Mr. Rennie, in 1817 The old channel of the Ouse (still to be traced W. of the Eau Brink) made an extensive bend of about 5 m. long from Lynn to German's Bridge. Its breadth was irregular, and it was full of shifting sandbeds. The neighbouring country was often much inundated by the penning up of the water in this uncertain channel; and no effectual drainage of the great inland level could be carried out until the obstacles presented by the winding course of the Ouse should be removed. Mr. Rennie interior. The arrangement of the accordingly cut the "Eau Brink" channel, a direct course for the river, about 3 m. in length, from St. German's to Lynn. It cost 30,000l., and now forms the bed of the Ouse. Since it was opened, it has deepened itself nearly 15 ft., thus promoting a more rapid discharge of water from the drains in the fen country, and saving the cost of many hundred windmills. It was widened in 1826. 1518. The seats remain almost in their perfect condition, and are of the most costly description; full of interest from the profusion and variety of their carving. St. Mary Magdalen, originally also a beautiful Dec. ch., has received many Perp. additions. The beautiful and lofty piers and arches give great dignity to the At 6 m. Watlington Junction, a branch line runs W. to Wisbech (10 m.). [There are stats. at Middle Drore, Smeeth Road, and Emneth. This line runs through the Marshland, the southern border of which is the Podike. (For a notice of this district, see Rte. 30. Smeeth Road stat. borders the "Smeeth" or plain of the Tilneys; for its story see Tilney All Saints, Rte. 30.) At Emneth is a very fine Church restored 1865. The chancel has low Norm. arches, and a triplet (lancet) E. window. There are heavy Elizabethan tombs, with effigies, for the Hewars family. See Rte 37.] From Watlington, the fine churches of Wiggenhall St. Mary Magdalen and Wiggenhall St. Mary the Virgin may be visited. The latter of these "is entirely of the transition period from Dec. to Perp., with the exception of the N. and S. doorways, both of them beautiful specimens of E. E. work. A perfect rood-screen with doors was added as late as 1626. It is placed a few inches E. of the former one, the lower panels of which are yet standing. There is a very beautiful brass eagle in the nave, stalls in the chancel is very perfect. There is some very good screen work inclosing the chapels at the E. end of the aisles" (Brandon's Parish Churches'). The lower panels of the screen are painted with the symbols of the Evangelists. Stow 8 m. Stow Bardolph Stat. Here is a small Ch., restored in 1850 (the S. side is entirely new). There is much enrichment and modern decoration, but nothing of sufficient_interest to detain the tourist. Hall, the seat of Sir Thomas Hare, Bart., has been entirely rebuilt on the site of the old hall. It is a handsome red-brick mansion, faced with white stone, in the Jacobaan style. Wallington Hall, an old house, in a large park (which adjoins Stow, but is in a separate parish, without a ch..), is occupied by Major Marcon. [The Ch. of Wimbotsham, 1 m. S. of Stow, is Norm. with E. Eng. and Perp. additions, all of interest. There are very good Norm. portals N. and S. of the nave, which has a ceiling, a good specimen of flat woodwork in panels, with many well carved bosses. The ch. was restored in 1854, and the chancel and apse entirely rebuilt.] 11 m. Downham Market Stat. This is a neat and clean market town (Inns: Crown, Market-place; Castle, High-street; pop. of parish, 3272), in which 3 large fairs for horses, cattle, &c., are held yearly in March, May, and November; "but Downham contains little to interest |