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scription, see Proceedings of Suff. Arch. Inst.,' vol. ii.]

The turnpike road from Bury to Thetford (12 m.) is not very interesting; though at Ingham a fine view S. is commanded.

m. 1. of the road, 2 m. from Bury, is

The Ch. of Fornham All Saints, on the 1. bank of the Lark, has E. Eng. portions-an early Dec. chancel with good windows, and Perp. N. and S. aisles. At Babwell, in this parish, stood a convent of Franciscans, founded by Richard Earl of Gloucester and Gilbert his son, in 1265, after the friars had in vain attempted to establish themselves within the town of St. Edmundsbury. (For the history of their struggle with the monastery, which is curious, see Gage's Hist. of Thingoe Hundred'). Parts of the walls of inclosure remain, and the fish-ponds may be distinguished.

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Near the little village of Ingham (4 m.) the road is bordered by the trees and plantations of Ampton (rt.) and Culford (1.).

Ampton (B. B. Hunter Rodwell, Esq.), was from the Dissolution the seat of the Calthorpes, whose descendants in the female line exchanged the name of Gough for that of Calthorpe in 1788, and are now represented by the 5th Baron Calthorpe. In the Ch.. which is Perp., is the tomb of Sir H. Calthorpe, "made by John and Mathias Christmas, who also carved the great ship built by Pett at Woolwich, 1637." Mrs. Dorothy Calthorpe, 1693, left behind her a good work in the shape of an almshouse for ancient maidens.

Fornham St. Geneviève, on a hill. Robert de Beaumont, Earl of Leicester, rose against Hen. II., was routed, fled the land, and returned in 1173 with an army of Flemings. From Framlingham (see that Castle, Rte. 16) they marched towards St. Edmundsbury, and at Fornham St. Geneviève were met by Chief Justice Richard de Lucy, who, aided by Humphrey de Bohun, and other barons, drove all, Earl, Countess, and Flemings, into or beyond the river Lark, still stagnant in those parts. The Countess of Leicester's gold ring (or one supposed to have been hers) was there found in these later times, and various skeletons with cleft heads. The 7 great hills, still remaining, are locally said to mark the tombs of the leaders, and the lesser and very numerous mounds those of the common soldiers. These, however, are in all probability Celtic barrows. The actual field of battle was near the ch. (but the enclosure formerly called "Le Camping Close," and thought to have been so named with reference to this fight, was Livermere Park (Miss Broke) no doubt a field set apart, as else-joins Ampton, and the two owners where in Norfolk and Suffolk, for the have united to form a fine sheet of game called Camping (A.S. camp, a water, and to construct a handsome conflict) a very rough kind of foot- bridge, common to both domains. ball, now almost extinct). At John's Troston, next to Livermere, was the Hill, near this, and just above the residence of Capel Lofft, Esq., who ancient ford of the river, the skeletons is locally celebrated for his kindness already mentioned were found, to-to the author of the 'Farmer's Boy.' gether with culinary articles, and some pennies of Hen. II. The Duke of Norfolk had a seat here (Fornham Park), now belonging to W. Gilstrap, Esq. In the grounds are some remains of the parish ch, destroyed by fire in 1782.

Opposite to Ampton, 1. of the road, is Culford (Rev. E. R. Benyon). The house was built, 1591, by Sir Nicholas Bacon, Premier Baronet of England, and inherited by his younger son Sir Nathaniel, enumerated by Walpole among the English painters. The

my Lord Chamberlain's (Arlington) at Euston, and was concerned in the planting of "tufts of fir and much of the other wood."-Diary, 1677). My Lord himself," he says,

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painter has a bust in the ch., with a pallet and brushes. Here also is a seated figure of Lady Bacon, evidently by the same sculptor as the figure of the great Bacon, Lord Verulam, in St. Michael's Ch. at St. Alban's." who built the house and restored The ch. was rebuilt by Sir Stephen the church (most of the houses of Fox. The estate came to the Corn- God in this country resembling wallises by devise, and was by them rather stables and thatched cottages sold. than temples in which to serve the Most High) was given to no expensive vice but building, and to have all things rich, polite, and princely." The house contains some family and other portraits; James I., and Anne of Denmark, whole lengths. by Jansen; George Villiers Duke of Buckingham, by Mytens; Barbara Villiers Duchess of Cleveland, mother of the 1st Duke of Grafton; James Duke of York and Anne Hyde, and Henry Earl of Arlington, by Lely; Duke of Monmouth in armour, Charles I. and the Marq. of Hamilton, copied from Vandyck, by Jervis. Verrio's first frescoes in England were executed for Lord Arlington at Euston, in 1671. "Euston," wrote Walpole in 1753,

W. of Culford, and close to the park, is the brick mansion of *West Stow, a manor which belonged to the Abbots of Bury, until the Dissolution, when it was granted to Sir John Croftes, who had belonged to the household of Mary Tudor, Queendowager of France, and Duchess of Suffolk. Sir John built the hall, and the gatehouse, on which he placed the arms of his former mistress. In an upper room are some distemper paintings of the time of Elizabeth. This gatehouse, which has flanking towers, capped with cupolas, is the most interesting portion of the building. Most of the quadrangle of the house is pulled down, and the remainder is used as a farm-house and buildings, but the chimneys and vari-"is one of the most admired seats ous details in brick still remain tolerably perfect, and are worth attention. The Ch. of West Stow, for the most part E. Eng., has been restored under the direction of Mr. Butterfield.

8 m. Barnham St. Gregory. The ch. is Dec. but of no great interest.

1 m. 1. is Euston Park (Duke of Grafton, to whom it descended from the marriage of his ancestor, the 1st duke, Henry Fitzroy, son of Charles II., with Isabella, daughter and heiress of Sir Henry Bennet, Earl of Arlington, and one of the A's of the Cabal ministry. It is a large, good, red-brick house, with stone quoins, built by Lord Arlington in the reign of Charles II., and without any pretensions to beauty, except from its position in a well timbered and well watered park. Evelyn was much at

in England, in my opinion, because Kent has a most absolute disposition of it. Kent is now so fashionable that, like Addison's "Liberty," he

"Can make bleak rocks and barren mountains smile."

I believe the duke wishes he could make them green too. The house is large and bad; it was built by Lord Arlington, and stands, as all old houses do, for convenience of water and shelter, in a hole; so it neither sees nor is seen: he has no money to build another. The park is fine, the old woods excessively so they are much grander than Mr. Kent's pas sion,-clumps; that is, sticking a dozen trees here and there till a lawn looks like the ten of spades." Its scenery was the theme of the Suffolk poet, Robert Bloomfield, a native of the neighbouring village of Honing

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race,

And skulking foxes destined for the chace." Within the park on an eminence is the temple designed by Kent (1746) as a banqueting house. The Euston estate is not less than 40 m. in circuit, and includes many villages and hamlets, together with Fakenham Wood, of more than 300 acres, the largest in the county.

1. in Suffolk, is Elveden Hall, the seat of the Maharajah Dhuleep Singh, an Italian edifice, built 1870, of red brick with stone dressings, the interior, decorated in an Oriental style-Indian patterns moulded in carton pierre, with much gilding and glass. The estate now consists of 17,000 acres; 12,000 head of game are sometimes shot on it in a season. The former house was the residence (1770) of Admiral Keppel, who is buried in the church within

the Park.

At 12 m. from Bury, after crossing some open ground on which are many barrows, we reach

THETFORD. (See NORFOLK, Rte. 32. The great mound and entrenchments are passed 1. in entering the town.)

[Essex, &c.]

ROUTE 15.

SUDBURY TO CAMBRIDGE BY CLARE AND HAVERHILL.

(Branch line of Great Eastern Railway. The distance is 31 m.)

to Long Melford this route is the From Sudbury (see ESSEX, Rte. 8) same as Rte. 14. At Long Melford it branches 1. following for some distance beyond Clare the N. bank of the Stour.

The first station beyond Long Melford is

village which has some silk manu5 m. from Sudbury, Glemsford, a factures, of the same character as those of Sudbury. The Ch. is chiefly late Perp.; but nave and chancel aisles are E. Eng.

be noticed close to A very fine row of poplars should

2 m. Cavendish Stat. (The ch. and village are seen rt.). This was the cradle of the noble family of Cavendish, who resided here, from the time of their supposed off-shoot from the house of Gernon, until their removal, under the influence of Elizabeth of Hardwick, to Chatsworth. In the chancel of the ch. was buried beheaded by Wat Tyler's mob. His Chief Justice Sir John Cavendish, younger son, John, an esquire to Richard II., is said to have slain that sturdy rebel. Sir Wm. Cavendish, father of the 1st Earl of Devonshire, was the last of the name who resided here.

The Church, which is good, is for the most part Perp., but has portions of older work. The nave clerestory is lofty Perp. The nave has a fine flat timber roof; the chancel ceiling is Perp., boarded and panelled. The

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tower is late E. Eng. with a vaulted lower story. In the second story is an original fireplace; and the twolight windows here are formed to receive shutters, which still remain. The vestry contains a good Dec. chest.

3 m. beyond Cavendish we reach

fect, it consisted of 2 courts or "baileys," of somewhat irregular form, and separated by a wide and deep ditch. The keep mound was at the N.W. angle of the inner bailey. Shattered and imperfect as they are, however, it is impossible to visit without interest the site of the great stronghold of the Earls Clare Stat. (Inn: Bell. Pop. 1887). of Clare, whose power was so widely The town stands upon the N. side of extended from the Conquest until the Stour, in Suffolk, and is chiefly the early part of the 14th centy. famous for the great baronial family There had been a fortress here before to whom it gave name. (The signi- the Conquest; and within it was a fication of the name is uncertain. chapel, ded. to St. John the Baptist. But it seems to be the same word Richard Fitz-Gilbert, who fought that is found in Claren-don in Wilt- with William at Hastings, received shire, and in the Yorkshire Wapen- from him this manor of Clare, totake of Claro.) The rly. station is gether with that of Tonbridge; he actually within the outworks of the was slain in Wales and buried at St. castle, and fragments of wall are Neots. (II.) Gilbert of Tonbridge, seen beyond it. The mounds and His son, was a considerable benedykes of the outer courts are passed factor to the ch. He annexed the in entering the town. 1. is the keep Chapel of St. John, in the castle, to mound, in order to climb which, the Norman Abbey of Bec. One of the key must be asked for at one his sons founded Tintern Abbey, of the first houses, 1. The outer en- and another (grandson of the first trenchments of the castle enclosed Gilbert de Clare), best known as a very considerable space; and it Strongbow, conquered Ireland, and may perhaps be doubted whether the bore, for one generation, the titles great earthen dykes and the lofty of Striguil and Pembroke. (III.) mound are not relics of more ancient Richard, eldest son of Gilbert, and days than those of the Norman Earls, called De Clare, was Earl of Hertor their Saxon predecessors. (See ford, and died 1139, leaving (IV.) Castle Acre, NORFOLK, Rte. 27). The Gilbert de Clare, 4th from the Conkeep mound 100 ft. high, is covered quest who died 1151, and was buried with brushwood and coppice. A at Clare. His brother (V.) Roger winding path leads to the top, where became 3rd Earl of Hertford. To is a fragment of wall, circular within, him succeeded his son and heir (VI.) and without rendered polygonal by Richard Earl of Hertford, and, in 14 angular buttresses (as at Castle right of his wife, of Gloucester. He Acre). A curtain wall extends down was a conservator of Magna Charta: the hill side, as at Tamworth, Wind- and was buried, 1211, at Clare. (VII.) sor, and formerly at Cardiff. These Gilbert, his successor in the two fragments date perhaps from the carldoms, was buried at Tewkesbury, 13th centy.; but they are of little as were (VIII.) Richard his son and architectural importance. The castle heir, and (IX.) Gilbert surnamed the occupies the angle formed by the Red, who married Joan of Acres, junction of the Chilton river with daughter to Edward I. and sister to the Stour. (The present channel of Edward II.,who attended her funeral the Stour is comparatively modern. in 1307, at Clare. Their son (X.) The old river,' so called, ran S. of Gilbert, Earl of Hertford and Glouboth priory and castle.) When per-cester, fell at Bannockburn without

issue, and his possessions came to his notice of the cross and chain, his sister. 'Archæol. Instit. Journal,' vol. xxv.

The castle descended from the Clares to a Brugh, whose heiress married Lionel, Duke of Clarence. Philippa, their heiress, married Edmund Mortimer, whose grandson, the last of his family, found the castle in good repair and well stocked with furniture, when he came of age in 1412. On his death, in 1425, it came to his nephew Richard, afterwards Duke of York, father of Edward IV. The castle, coming to the crown with Ed. IV., continued so vested till it was granted by Ed. VI. to Sir John Cheke. It does not appear that it was ever besieged or that it suffered at any time from war. When the walls were demolished is not known.

The character of the surrounding country is well seen from the keep mound. It is wooded and undulating, though never rising into hills of any height. The Stour here runs through a decided valley. Across the river is seen the ivy-mantled Priory (see post). The passage of the Stour must have been important at this place; since the castle (to whatever date we assign the mounds) was evidently meant to defend it.

In 1866, during the formation of the rly., whilst the labourers were cutting down part of the enceinte of the inner bailey (where the rly. stat. now stands), a small gold crucifix and chain were found, and are now in the possession of Her Majesty. The cross is 14 in. long, the chain 2 ft. The plate bearing the figure of the Saviour may be removed, and under it is a small cavity containing 2 minute fragments of wood and I of stone (granite). These are probably relics. The date of the cross is very uncertain, perhaps the 14th centy. A curious brass ornament, probably a pectoral cross, with Greek inscriptions, was found here in 1797, and is figured by Mr. Albert Way in

The title of "Duke of Clarence"; that of the "Clarencieux" Herald; and the name of Clare County in Ireland are all derived from this great house of Clare. "The territory of which the Earl of Clare was feudal chief would be called in Latin Clarentia, and in Norm. Fr. Clarence (comp. Provence from Provincia, Florence from Florentia, France from Francia, &c.)"—J. W. Donaldson. After Lionel of Antwerp, 3rd son of Ed. III., married Elizabeth, the heiress of Clare, in 1354, he was, in the Parliament of 1362, formally created Duke of Clarence. (He died in 1368, and was buried in the Priory Ch. here.) There have since been 3 Dukes of Clarence Thomas, son of Hen. IV.; George, brother of Ed. IV.; and Wm. Henry, son of Geo. III., afterwards Wm. IV. The title of Clarencieux Herald, according to Noble, is not older than the French wars of Hen. V., who had a preference for the herald of his brother, as constable of his army. It may, however, be more ancient, and in Dr. Donaldson's opinion was the plural form of Clarencel, meaning a feudal adherent of the house of Clare, and was given to the herald with reference to the enormous possessions of that house. The name of Clare was first given to the Irish county in the reign of Eliz., when the district was divided into 3 counties: Limerick, Tipperary, and Clare. Richard de Clare (Strongbow) first introduced English into that part of Ireland; and Thomas de Clare, son of the 2nd Earl of Gloucester, became possessed of a large tract of land there about 1267. The name of the family seems to have been retained in Ireland until Elizabeth's division.

The Ch. of St. Peter and St. Paul deserves a visit, although much defaced with galleries. It is for the

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