of "Peddle" ditches, extend on the W. and S. sides of the town, beyond the castle. They may have been brought into connection with its defences, but are certainly of far earlier date. The southern bank is 702 ft. long. Behind the castle is a singular excavation in the chalk of concentric circles, called the Maze, 110 ft. in diameter. There is a local tradition that this is a copy of another and more ancient maze. See it figured in the Rev. Ed. Trollope's very curious paper on ancient and mediæval labyrinths-Arch. Journal,' vol. xv. tures on its upper part. Messrs. Gibson's new bank, by Nesfield, is a great ornament to the town. At the lower or W. end of the town are Almshouses, founded by Edward VI., and lately rebuilt. Their revenue amounts to nearly 1000l. per annum, and they maintain 30 poor men and women. Here is deposited a brown wooden bowl tipped with silver, with the Virgin and Child at the bottom of the bowl engraved on silver. Pepys records his having drunk out of this bowl. The Free Grammar School was founded in the 16th centy. by John Leech, vicar. Here are a Horticultural and an Agricultural Society, both well supported. The Museum on the Bury or Castle Hill. opened 1835, contains a good provincial collection of local antiqui- The worthies of Walden include ties and natural history. Here are Sir Thomas Smijth, born here 1514, the stuffed hide of Wallace, the lion one of the most learned men of his born in England, skeletons of the time, whose life has been written by double-horned rhinoceros, African Strype; and Gabriel Harvey, son of elephant, hippopotamus, &c.; the slip-a rope-maker, and born about 1550. per of Elizabeth of Bohemia, and the fan and gloves of Mary Queen of Scots also some Roman remains from Chesterford. The natural history department is well arranged, and there is a good printed catalogue of the whole. The Sun Inn, built about 1625, is a picturesque specimen of domestic architecture. It has quaint gables, ornamented with stucco-work, and over the gate two giants support the sun. It was Fairfax's head-quarters. In Church-street are some very curious old fronts with carved and embossed gables. Remark especially a very good timber house of the early part of the 16th centy., with oriel windows, under the two upper of which are shields of arms and the badge of Hen. VIII. with supporters. The Corn Exchange, with a public library, is the creditable group of modern buildings which includes the Savings Bank and Post Office. An old hall was taken down to make way for them. In the market-place is a good new drinking-fountain, with sculp He was the friend of Spenser, and was persecuted by Nash, whose pamphlet Have with you to Saffron Walden, or Gabriel Harvey's Hunt is up,' is one of the rarest, and one of the most worthless, of the bibliomaniac's treasury. The fine view of the ch. and town from the station at Saffron Walden should not be unnoticed. [Wimbish Church, 3 m. S.E. of Saffron Walden, has a Norm. W. front. Radwinter, 1 m. beyond, is throughout Dec. The Pant, Gwin, or Blackwater (it has, or has had, all these names at different parts of its course) rises in this parish, and flows across Essex to join the Chelmer at Maldon. Boats, according to Harrison (in Holinshed, vol. i.), "have come in time past from Bilie Abbey beside Maldon and the moores in Radwinter. I have heard also that an anchor was found there, near to a red willow." Great Sampford, 24 m. beyond Radwinter, has an interesting Ch. (dedicated to St. Michael). The chancel and S. transept are very good Dec. A wall arcade surrounds the chancel. There is a fine tomb of the same date in the transept. The ch. was given by the Conqueror to Battle Abbey, and remained in possession of that monastery until the Dissolution.] known to have existed a century and a half ago. The site was thoroughly explored 1846-7-8, and interesting discoveries made of many Roman remains, under the superintendence of the late Lord Braybrooke, then the Hon. R. C. Neville. These are preserved at Audley End. [The Church of Streethall, 2 m. S. W. of Chesterford Stat., contains much work which has been regarded as Saxon. Norm. The chancel arch is N. of Audley End Stat. is the first Tunnel on this line of rly. It is 500 yards long, and over its S. entrance are the arms of Lord Braybrooke (Neville and Griffin). It runs under a mound planted with trees, enclosing Lord Braybrooke's Aviary. (See ante.) For a short space the rly. passesch., like that of Copford in Essex, through Lord Braybrooke's property After an interval a second tunnel, 400 ft. long, occurs, also driven through the chalk. Hadstock Church, on the border of the county, 4 m. N.E., is Norm. in its main fabric. The N. door of this and certain doors of Worcester and Rochester Cathedrals, is said to have been covered with the tanned skin of At Littlebury, a village on 1. of the a sacrilegious Dane, who had been line, lived Henry Winstanley, archi- killed in an attempt to plunder the tect of the first Eddystone Light-ch. The N. door of Hadstock, being house, and of many ingenious contrivances in waterworks and mechanics: to whom we are also indebted for a rare and costly volume concerning Audley End," and affording evidence of the condition of the house before the great quadrangle was destroyed. He perished in the Eddystone Lighthouse. His house at Littlebury was shown as late as 1721, at 12d. a head, for the benefit of his widow. The Ch. has a beautiful Perp. font cover. The chancel has been rebuilt by Lord Braybrooke, in excellent taste. From Audley the rly. descends the valley of the Cam to Cambridge. It enters Cambridgeshire near 47 m. Chesterford Stat. Between Little Chesterford and Great Chesterford the line crosses the Cam or Granta, near a Roman station, the ancient Iceanum, once thought to be Camboricum. The foundations of walls enclosing about 50 acres are much damaged, was removed in 1816; but part of the original woodwork, with the massive nails used to attach the skin, is preserved at Audley End. Portions of the skin from Hadstock, Copford, and Worcester, were examined at the request of Mr. Albert Way by the late Mr. Quekett, Ass. Conserv. of the Mus. R. C. Surgeons. In all cases the skin was pronounced human. (See Archæol. Journal,' vol. v.). It would seem that, whether legally or not, such flicted on stealers of ch. property in a punishment was occasionally inthe 11th and 12th centuries. In "Sunken Church Field," in this parish, are the foundations of extensive Roman villas. The site commands a view of the Bartlow tumuli.] (For the line from Chesterford to Cambridge, see CAMBRIDGESHIRE, Rte. 33.) SECTION II. SUFFOLK. ROUTE ROUTES. The names of places are printed in italics only in those routes where the places are described. PAGE ROUTE 107 118 13. Bentley Junction to Hadleigh. Little Wenham. 14. Sudbury to Thetford by Bury St. Edmund's. Long Melford, Lavenham, Ickworth, Hengrave, Barton. 120 15. Sudbury to Cambridge by Clare and Haverhill 16. Ipswich to Yarmouth, by Woodbridge and Lowestoft. Orford, Framling ham, Aldborough, Dun ROUTE 12. 145 PAGE 150 173 18. Ipswich to Norwich by Debenham, Eye, and Diss. 177 Ipswich to Norwich by Stowmarket, Finingham, and Mellis 19. 20. Bury St. Edmund's to Bungay and Beccles. Oakley, Wingfield, Mettingham 180 181 prived, according to the legend, by the machinations of devils, of its LONDON (MANNINGTREE) TO IPS- steeple,-which certainly remains WICH. THE ORWELL. (Great Eastern Railway.) (For the line from London to Manningtree, see ESSEX, Rte. 2). On quitting Manningtree the rly. crosses the Stour by a long, low, wooden bridge, on which is a quay and warehouse for shipping corn, and enters Suffolk. [L. about 3 m., at East Bergholt, is a large handsome Perp. Church, de in an unfinished state. The ch. is of flint and stone, with much rich panelling. The clerestory is unusually developed. The N. doorway and the completed portion of the tower deserve special notice. In the chancel is the monument of a lawyer the very model of his professionone Edward Lambe, who although "with his councill he helped many, yett took fees scarce of any." He died in 1647. The bells (as at Wickes and Wrabness near Harwich, see ESSEX, Rte. 7) are hung in a kind of About 2 m. W. of East Bergholt, on the old Colchester turnpike, is Stratford, a village with water-mills and several villas scattered about it. It has a handsome Perp. Ch. (the chan village and its neighbourhood many Deep cuttings before reaching The rly. now makes a sweep E. towards the Orwell, so as to approach Wherstead village; and soon after passing through a short tunnel, reaches 68 m. IPSWICH Stat. wooden cage in the churchyard. is Holton St Mary Ch., Early Dec. Constable, the landscape painter, (chancel and nave, Perp. (tower. who was born here in 1776 (at Flatford, in East Bergholt parish,-the house in which he was born has been pulled down), and whose heart was never cold towards the scenes of his boyhood, thus describes the place:cel, Dec.) Constable drew from this East Bergholt is pleasantly situated in the most cultivated part of Suffolk, on a spot which overlooks the fertile valley of the Stour, which river separates that county on the south from Essex. The beauty of the surrounding scenery, its gentle declivities, its luxuriant meadow flats sprinkled [From Bentley a branch line with flocks and herds, its well-culti-passes to Hadleigh, see Rte. 13]. vated uplands, its woods and rivers, with numerous scattered villages and churches, farms and picturesque cottages, all impart to this particular spot an amenity and elegance hardly anywhere else to be found." Constable was the son of a miller, which, as he loved to say, accounted for the many mills, and streams, and dams, and weirs, of his pictures. "I associate," he writes, my careless boyhood" with all that lies on the banks of the Stour: those scenes made me a painter, and I am grateful." Even his cows are always of the Suffolk breed, without horns, A view of the house in which he was born forms the frontispiece to his 'English Landscape;' and many of his favourite subjects are in the immediate neighbourhood. He was fond of introducing the spire of Ded-the Orwell. Its name, in Domesday ham Ch. (on the Essex bank of the river, nearly opposite Bergholt). The old turnpike road from Ipswich to Colchester runs near Dedham, and on one occasion he tells us, when travelling in a coach with two strangers, "In passing the vale of Dedham, one of them remarked on my saying it was beautiful, Yes, sir; this is Constable's country.' I then told him who I was, lest he should spoil it."—(Life, by C. R. Leslie, p. 232). About 3 m. N. of East Bergholt Inns: White Horse, Tavern-street, best. At this house occurred Mr. Pickwick's remarkable adventure with the lady in yellow curl-papers. Crown and Anchor, comfortable, Westgate-street; Golden Lion on the Corn-hill. Temperance Hotel, Princes-street, a very good hotel of its class. Ipswich, the county town of Suffolk (Pop. 42,947), is agreeably placed, on a gentle slope, at the head of the salt-water estuary of Gyppeswic,' indicates its position on the Gipping river, which, below the town, expands into the estuary called the Orwell. (The Gipping rises near a village of the same name, N. of Stowmarket. It is marked by Kemble as a settlement of the "Gippingas," who may have given name the river, the course of which is, least as far as Shrubland Park, pl sant and well wooded. At the end the last century the river was ma navigable as high as Stowmark There are 15 locks between Sto to at of de market and Ipswich—a distance of 16 miles.) A tolerably good idea of the position of the town is to be obtained from the rly. stat., and a better one from the tower of St. Mary-at-Key, or from the higher Arboretum. The beautiful estuary of the Orwell, and the winding valley of the Gipping, are seen at once; and the very favourable position of the harbour is evident. The discovery of a tesselated pavement in Castle Field (now in the Museum, see post) proves that the site had not been neglected by the Romans, though it does not appear that any important station was fixed here. Ipswich is first mentioned in the 'Sax. Chron.,' ad ann. 991, when it was plundered by the Northmen under the sons of Steitin and the famous Olaf Tryggwesson, shortly before they advanced into Essex, and encountered Brihtnoth at Maldon (see ESSEX, Rte. 4). Ipswich at this time possessed a royal mint; and some hundreds of silver "styeas" with the inscription "Ethelred II. Gip.," were found not many years since under a house in the Old Butter Market. The town seems to have been walled at the time of the Conquest, and a 66 castle" was then built, of which no traces remain. The walls and gates also have long since disappeared; but the narrow and winding streets still afford sufficient evidence that the town was once pent up within fortifications. In 1190, John gave Ipswich its first charter, which was confirmed by Edwards I., II, and III. The town traded largely with Flanders and the north of Europe. At a later period its ships brought ling in great quantities from Iceland, and De Foe asserts that the plague was introduced in certain large tradingVessels known as 66 'Ipswich cats.' The town itself was famous for its manufactures of woollen and sail cloth, for which it seems to have been indebted to a colony of Flemings. Ipswich ships formed an important part of the fleet collected on this and on the southern coast during the French wars of Edward III.; but as a port it had apparently much declined in the reign of Elizabeth, when it contributed only two ships toward the defence of the country. Elizabeth twice visited Ipswich, and sailed down the Orwell in great state, attended by the corporation. The town had been noted for many autos da fe under Mary; and witchfinders were active here in the middle of the next century. The "Ipswich witches," of whom one or two were burnt here, were so troublesome that their standing in the witch "sabbat must have been considerable. (The last of them, one Grace Pett, laid her hand heavily on a farmer's sheep, who, in order to punish her, fastened one of the sheep in the ground and burnt it, except the feet, which were under the earth. The next morning Grace Pett was found burnt to a cinder-except her feet. Her fate is recorded in the Philosophical Transactions' as a case of spontaneous combustion). Ipswich had little history during the Civil War, or in later times. Its trade abroad, and with coastingvessels, has greatly increased of late years; and the town now contains numerous manufactories of great importance, especially those for agricultural implements, which are perhaps the best in England. The harbour has, at a very considerable outlay, been formed into one of the largest wet docks in the kingdom, and considerable improvements are proposed at the present time. The name which is most prominently associated with Ipswich is that of Cardinal Wolsey, born here in the parish of St. Nicholas in 1471; in all probability not the son of a butcher (though a butcher of his name was living at Ipswich not many years ago.-W. White). His father |