so much of salted provisions turn out tainted or of inferior quality. The kind of salt used, has in reality much less to do with it than is generally supposed.

Questions 6 and 7. I would add to the causes of the softening of the rind of pork, the degree or extent of the scalding process The water will necessarily be of variable temperature, and in many cases the hog may be left too long exposed to its action, and this would be sufficient to account for the change in many instances.

Question, 11. It was owing to the general use of fine salt in the interior and western part of our own State some years ago, and its invariable effect, upon pork and beef, when examined the spring and summer following, being as I have stated, that provisions so salted fell into disfavor, and the prejudice against the use of fine salt became general; at that time I think there was but a small quantity of solar salt manufactured. As the production of this latter quality of salt increased, the packing of pork in our State decreased, owing to the railroad facilities, enabling the farmers to find a better market for their hogs in New-York and Boston, so that at the present day there is little packing of pork or beef done west of the Hudson river, (Utica is the only point of any importance.) The packers on the river use exclusively foreign salt and have always used it.

The opinion that generally obtains, that Onondaga salt is not as good as foreign salt, is based upon the quality of that salt as manufactured years ago, and cannot be applied to the more recent manufacture of solar evaporated salt.

Through your kind attention the following valuable and instructive letters have also been procured. They are from practical and intelligent men, and the clear and direct statements made, must commend them to the attention and confidence of all.

PACKING PROVISIONS FOR MARKET.

LETTER OF THOS. F. DE VOE, ESQ.

NEW-YORK, Dec. 24, 1852.

B. P. JOHNSON, Esq., Sec'y State Ag. Society:

Dear Sir-I take this late* opportunity of answering as far as I am able, the inquiries made by yourself and Pro. Geo. H. Cook, on the "curing of provisions," &c. These subjects have commanded a part of my study and attention, as well as experience and observation for about twenty years past, as they pertain to a part of my business, and if what follows will be at all useful or interesting, it is most willingly given.

"The discoloration of (salted) provisions, particulary beef," &c. You are aware, no doubt that the greatest quantity of "barrelled beef" sent to foreign markets, is packed in the heat; great portions are of young cattle, fattened on grass, principally of a quick and large growth, and are what we New-York butchers call "grass fed beef." The beef when fresh will eat soft, tender, juicy and sweet, but will not have the delicious flavor, solidity or firmness, weight, or the heart or nourishment that stall fed (with grain) beef has. It appears to me as soon as the salt touches grass fed beef, it draws back, shrinks into a smaller compass, and changes to a dark color, as if there was not firmness or solidity to resist the action of the salt; and when boiled, especially if salted for a long time, will shrink very much, leaving it tasteless, juiceless, without heart or substance, and when cut of a dark color. "Stall fed beef," on the contrary, is like corn-fed pork; it has the appearance (when properly cured) of being firmer, brighter, plumper, or has a swelled look, as if the well mixed fat protected the lean flesh. We seldom hear of farmers or others salting grass or milk-fed pork; they pen them up, and feed as much corn (generally) as the animal will take, for sometimes, months before slaughtering, and when they are salted, I quote an old saying, "put one pound of corn-fed pork in the pot, it comes out two," which will apply to the stall-fed beef. Many cure with nothing

As I was at Washington, when your letter arrived, excuse this late answer.

T. F. D. V.

but salt, (often bad tasted and dirty,) and the sometimes "muddy' waters of our western rivers," which gives it a dark yellow and dead appearance.

I have seen a great deal of this kind opened for "Inspection," generally sweet; but the beef had the appearance of having been taken from grass-fed oxen, steers, heifers and cows, of middling fatness, and but a small quantity of stall-fed and properly cured. Some years ago I put up, for the use of a trading ship in the Mediterranean, (and for several voyages) beef from stall-fed steers, 3 to 6 years old, (for I do not call them "oxen" until the animal is fully developed or grown, or until he has passed the age of not less than 6 years,) the plates, navels and brisket pieces; took out all the bones and tied it in rolls of about 10 lbs. each, which I call "Scotch Roll," (and have sold quantities before and since,) curing with salt, sugar, saltpeter and spices. After being gone a long voyage, part came back as bright and handsome as the day it started, and always gave satisfaction.

Many persons ask, why it is that Irish (and also English) beef is preferred before ours? and of their using the name of "Ox Beef" and "Navy Beef?" The reason is, that their cattle are always, more or less, stall-fed on roots and grain, and are properly cured, with the best kinds of salt. Steers are seldom fed to that extent and length of time that the ox is. After the ox has become too old for work, he is stall-fed for (sometimes) months longer, as he fleshes and fattens slower than the steer, on the same quantity of food. Both are, however, strongly fed, as long as there is any improvement, then slaughtered, cut in pieces of 8 or 10 lbs. packed in casks nearly twice the size of our common provision barrels, and branded "Navy Beef," or "Ox Beef," or both. Our city (and eastern cities) cured beef, has always been preferred, and commands a better price than "Western Beef;" but the western packers are improving, as many English and Irish packers, within a few years past, have gone out there to put up for the English and other markets. I prefer steer to ox beef, both stall-fed; because the steer's flesh, muscles, nerves, sinews, &c., are all young and tender, never having been called into the same action that the old ox has, who has worked and labored

until his flesh, muscles, &c. have become hard, tough, stringy and sometimes strong flavored. Give me prime stall-fed steers, four or five years old, strongly fed, not less than 6 months, the four quarters weighing between 800 and 1,000 lbs., good, sweet tight oak casks, Turk's Island salt, saltpeter and sugar, and I will make as good, clean, bright, sweet, good colored beef, and to keep as long as man could ask or wish for.

On "the Discoloration of Cow or Heifer Beef."--There are so many causes for discoloration, and the different shades, that is, from a light to almost a black shade, that it is difficult to say, positively, without seeing it, or name the cause, but I will say that, generally, the cause of discoloration, is in the curing, (or handling, as the packers say,) and my reasons, as they occur to me, are; the grown animal, of packing qualities will not cause this dark discoloration, without it has been salted before the animal heat has left it, killed in a hot and worried state, or diseased. These are some of the causes. Some years ago I was often at an inspection and packing establishment, and I might as well give my reasons for being so often there. From information received from England, I was induced to "pack" above $2,000 (as a trial) worth, of large heavy "stall-fed" cattle, say from 900 to 1,200 lbs., (4 qrs.;) cut and put it up, as directed, in tierces, containing 38 pieces, of about 8 lbs. each piece. The report and returns were, that it was just the thing wanted; but when all expenses were paid, I was a loser of about $150, which stopped my packing: but to my reasons. A great many lots, from different packers, were opened for inspection. One in particular was very much discolored, almost black, and quite dirty; the beef about the usual kind "Barreled;" and to trace the cause was some trouble, but I wished to know it. It came from an irregular packer, who had used the steam boiled western salt, (Salina, I think,) a great deal too much, being about one bushel to every barrel; from 10 to 12 oz. saltpeter, and the not settled, dirty river water. You say that "the English packers say that this beef (cow or heifer) will always discolor." I think they must mean the flesh of small steers and heifers, about half grown, poor and thin in flesh; this kind of beef will be a shade darker than that of full grown animals, all salted in the same manner.

The

flesh of the ox and cow, or full grown steers, is generally firmer, better beef color (red) than the young steer or heifer, (which is generally a dark veal color,) and of course will be a better color "salted."

The regular packer uses what they call "Solar salt," (ofttimes St. Ubes, or Bonaire, Turk's Island,) from 30 to 50 lbs.; about 6 oz. saltpeter to a barrel; and they have large vats, where the river water settles before it is used. Great quantities are sent to New-York, to be inspected and repacked; it is taken out, say ten barrels at a time, tried if sweet, thrown in different sections of a large circular bin around the scales, according to qualities, inspected and "Barreled" or repacked, using Turks Island, St. Ubes or Bonaire salt. The best quality is marked "Mess Beef," principally in barrels; the next best in tierces, marked "Prime Mess;" 3d best, "Railroad" or "Prime," with the Inspector's name, which generally gives it character and sale.

Respectfully yours.,

THOS. F. DE VOE,

Butcher, No. 7-8 Jefferson Market, New-York city.

J. AMBROSE WIGHT, Esq., editor of the Prairie Farmer, is entitled to our thanks for the valuable article annexed, on the packing of beef, and the discoloration of the meat in certain cases, and the probable cause. The English packers, at the Government Victualling Office, at Deptford, near London, insist that the beef of cows and heifers will not retain its brightness, but will grow brown or black. It will be seen (as we supposed it would) that the Chicago packers do not believe, from long experience, that the distinction of sexes affects the beef. The reason why beef is affected is clearly set forth in the annexed article.

B. P. JOHNSON, Esq., Cor. Sec., N. Y. S. A. S.

We have questioned several of our largest and most experienced packers here, among whom we may mention Messrs. Thomas Dyer, O. S. Hough and J. P. Chapin, all of whom have been concerned in provisions for twelve or fifteen years, and are among the largest packers of beef in the world. Their opinions agree in the main, but vary somewhat as to unimportant particulars.