For the American Bee Journal,

A Visit to Mr. T. G. McGaw, Monmouth, Ill.

And a pleasant visit it was too, and to be placed on record in the book of memory to be recalled in after days with other recollections of our bees and bee men. I found Mr. McGaw's bee-yard by enquiring diligently, and found the bee man at his post with a bee veil tied on top of his hat in readiness for use if the war should be carried too close home, though he said he had but little use for it. I told my name and in a few minutes we were like old friends, talking of course about bees, hives, extractors, journals, and last but not least, the bee-keepers themselves.

He is a well posted bee keeper in the broadest sense of the term, having taken his first start in bees back in Oxford, Ohio, near Rev. L. L. Langstroth, where he got his first Italian queen for a single stock of blacks, the said queen turning out to be a hybrid. There, for the first time, I saw Will. R. King's hive, the Triumph, Gal'up's and Novice's frames, with Novice's metal corners which are a good thing but costing a little too much to be used in a large apiary where cheapness is the main idea, that is 4 cents per frame.

Mr. McGaw has about 65 stocks I think, besides some he has on hand keeping for others, mostly in Langstroth hives. And by the way, he spoke about one thing in regard to getting up a "standard" frame. Why can't they who are getting this new frame into use, or trying to, take the Langstroth hive as a beginning. Just cut off the frame and run it the other way of the hive, a frame easier to handle, extractors 1 could all be made to correspond with it, etc. See how easily the standard frame question could be settled if you but listen to our way of doing it. In the afternoon a slight shower drove us into the house and • there we continued our talk of the same old subject.

I listened with interest to the account of his transactions with other bee men, those he had been to see, had sold queens to, bought queens of, etc. I think that if I were a patent bee hive man I'd give Mr. McGaw a wide berth, for he seems to have no mercy for humbugs, especially in the bee business. After the shower was over we went out to the bees again, where we spent the time in looking into and through the hives, which were crowded with honey, bees and brood, and some with nice box honey on top; inspecting the workers from imported mothers, etc. Was shown a frame he had put up for fertilizing queens in confinement, and he feels as though it would do him good if he could give the man a good licking who said queens could

be fertilized in confinement. Another one of the pet theories laid on the shelf. I did not have the honor (?) of being stung by any of Mr. McGaw's bees, though several came around us in a threatening manner and one I had to whack with a shingle to teach him respect to strangers.

I did not get the figures of his honey for this season, but think from what he said it has been pretty good. I brought away, as a souvenir, one of his excellent queen shipping cages, sent by mail, 1 cent postage.

Our bees are working hard yet, buckwheat most gone, but white clover re-commencing and bees working on it good, and heartsease by the acre in our cornfields.. Have had two big rains clear 'off' with but a slight touch of frost, but are in hopes that we shall have a good honey time yet. W. M. KELLOGG

Knox Co., Ilt.

For the American Bee Journal.

Observations on Wintering..

Last fall I dug a cave, or outdoor cellar, 10x14 feet, and 6 deep. Through the center was set a row of posts, and on these, and the dirt sides, rested a roof composed of poles, brush, hay, and dirt. This roof was about two feet thick, and two ventilators 4x6 inches were inserted in it, one of which reached to the floor of the cave. The doorway was large, with loose inner and outer doors, the intervening space filled with hay. In this cave thirty stands of bees were wintered from the 22d and 24th of November to the 20th and 22d of March. During the winter the temperature in the cave varied from 34 to 40 degrees. Once a week we went into the cave to see that all was right, generally raising some or all the hives to examine them. Five times, at 'intervals of about two weeks, fire was built in the cave, and the temperature raised to 50 or 60 degrees for a short time. Twentysix stocks were in the Quinby hive, covered with cotton cloth, well gummed down with propolis, and with rather tight, flat roofs. To these stocks no ventilation upward was given until January 18th, when considerable upward ventilation was given, as much moisture had collected. Plenty of ventilation was given the four box hives at all times. Following Burch's suggestions, some hives were raised, on boxes, twelve inches from the shelf, some four inches, and some were set flat on the shelves.

Now for results. No signs of disease appeared in any hive, but all were bright when set out. All wintered on honey gathered in August and September, and consumed from ten to fifteen pounds per hive. Out of thirty hives nearly three quarts of bees died, but this loss was quite unevenly distributed. The box hives lost

almost none, the strongest stocks in moveable combs next least, and the weakest stocks most. Those hives raised on boxes lost more than those sitting directly on the shelves. Though it is safer to record facts than to give opinions, still I will venture one or two.

First. I think the tall upright form of the box is better adapted for wintering at a low temperature than the Quinby hive, as the bees are clustered more compactly with their stores above them, surrounded by warm air.

Second. In those hives set up on boxes, those bees which, from any cause, dropped to the bottom were chilled and lost before they could regain the cluster.

Third. For wintering at low temperature, strong colonies are safest and best.

Fourth. That Italians, being more active, are injured more by being disturbed than the blacks.

In two of my hives small patches of drone comb happened to be in the cluster, and the queens filled them with eggs, and one hive had some fine black drones on the first of April.

In conclusion, I would like to say that my cave suits me well for wintering, will hold about sixty hives, and will last several years, and the total cost, including labor, was not over twelve dollars.

Harlan, Iowa.

P. C. TRUMAN.

For the American Bee Journal.

them undisturbed in midnight darkness, and all will be right in the spring.

2. To secure the desired end in out door winter; if the hive is large, holding more than the requisite amount of winter stores it must be contracted to a proper size, and ventilated at the top, so as to let the surplus moisture escape and yet secure the animal heat of the bees. This is easily done. Remove the surplus frames from one side of the hive, sliping in a dividing board, filling in between it and the outer wall with leaves or straw. Cover the frames with a piece of cloth of any description, first laying a few small strips of board across the frames to give the bees a pass or passes over the tops of the frames under the cloth. Now, put the second story on and fill it with leaves, straw or some other fine warm material and place the lid on, contracting the fly hole to about one inch, and if the swarm is very strong raise the lid one-fourth inch on one side to dry up the moisture that collects rapidly on the top of the straw.

Hives should be placed near the ground and underpined with straw, to secure the heat of the earth. Bees cannot be successfully wintered out door and empty combs prevented from moulding, where the hive is not contracted to a proper size. The arrangement is in conflict with the laws of success, and disasterous results must follow. The moisture thrown off in animal respira tion is in fine particles like steam when exhaled from the lungs and never will condence into drops until it reaches a strata of atmosphere colder than the blood.

When

Bees.

As I have been successful in the wintering of my bees for years past, while death has blighted and destroyed thousand of colonies all over the country, and in some instances whole apiaries. I now transfer to the AMERICAN BEE JOURNAL my practice.

The philosphy of wintering bees is a right temperature of atmosphere, and a proper escape of the surplus moisture accumulating from the respiration and perspiration of the bees.

The practical feature in successfully wintering of bees, it is to pack them for winter quarters that there will be no conflict with nature's laws, or in other words, that a dry, warm temperature be secured.

How can this be done?

1. By placing the hive in a good, warm, dry cellar, or a house built exclusively for that purpose. And when deposited I always raise the lid of an inch on one side or end of the hive, partially closing the flyhole so as to exclude mice. The mercury should range at about 45° Fahrenheit. When the proper season rolls around put them up immediately after they have flown out, or in a very few days after, and leave

settles in drops at the furtherest and coldest part of the hive, and when lodging on empty combs they are blighted with mildew and in a few years worthless, whereas they should last good 10 or 15 years. When the size of the hive corresponds with the size of the swarm the whole internal air of the hive is kept warm, and the particles of moisture are bourn upon the atmosphere, and condence in the top of the hive above the straw where they will never get back, leaving the bees dry and warm, in which condition cold seldom effects a good swarm. Camargo, Ill. A. SOLISBURG.

For the American Bee Journal.

A Proposition.

Would it not be well for bee-keepers of America to form clubs, or rather a joint stock company, in order to procure the best variety or varieties of the honey-bees that can be found in the old countries, by sending a competent and reliable person there to procure them? I for one would like to invest in this direction, provided others would join in sufficient numbers. I am willing to be one of twenty-five to pay one

hundred dollars each, which would make $2,500. This sum probably would be sufficient to make the experiment. I have long been of the opinion that there are bees in the old world far superior to any that have been imported; and I hope there will be measures taken at our next annual convention, to be held at Pittsburgh, Pa., to form a company as above.

I believe if this subject was laid before the Commissioners of Agriculture at Washington they would assist in this laudable enterprise. A. BENEDICT.

Ohio.

For the American Bee Journal.

Artificial Pasturage.

For some years past I have been giving much attention to honey-producing plants, and am constrained to believe that the catnip plant has not received the consideration that its importance justly entitles it to. For three years past I have been sowing the seed on waste places, in all directions, for the distance of a mile or more from my apiary, and I have never seen anything equal it. It commences to bloom here the last week in June, and lasts fully three months, giving a continuous yield from the time the white clover fails, till frost. It thrives in any part of our country; stands our continuous summer drouths better than any other plant, and never fails. Our bees are on it every moment of daylight there is, from one month's end to another; not even a smart rain will drive them from it. Notwithstanding it is now the driest time that has been known here for many years, the bees make a constant roaring over the little catnip field which I am cultivating. We shall plant more of it for cultivation next spring, or rather winter. January and February . is the best time to sow it. Quinby says, "If there is any article that I would cultivate especially for honey, it would be catnip. I find nothing to surpass it."

M. N.

For the American Bee Journai,

Wintering Bees in Ohio.

Bees have winteted well with me this winter. I set my bees out on their summer stands the first warm day in March: I found all alive and in good condition.

Here let me say that I agree fully with Mrs. Tupper, Mr. Quinby aud Mr. Dadant in regard to the loss of bees experienced by bee-keepers the winters of '71 and '72.

Permit me to relate here my own experience. The fall of '71 I had a number of small colonies that I had made quite late in the fall, and not having honey enough for wintering, I fed melted A sugar. Those that were strong enough to seal it up, win

tered very well, but those colonies that were weak and did not seal their stores, perished with the dysentery. All bee-keepers ought to know that unevaporated, and unsealed honey will cause dysentery among bees, if they cannot get out of the hives to empty their intestines. This was the case with my bees. If I had set them out a few times for a fly-spell, they would have got along all right; but, says one, "why not leave them out all winter ?" Becanse bees, to winter well, on their summer stands require plenty of bees, plenty of good sealed honey (or sealed sugar,) and proper ventilation. The fall of '72 my bees remained idle from the middle of July to September, and the queens did not lay to any account, for at least six weeks. So of course, nearly all the bees in the hives were old, and when buck-wheat and golden rod offered plenty of honey, the bees being no longer nurses, but honey gatherers, the hives were soon full of honey and the queens having but few empty cells, the brood was too scarce to replace the old bees, perishing every day. So when winter commenced my colonies were quite weak, and part of them perished like the others. The only way to prevent such a danger is to see that there is plenty of room in the hives, say in September, and then feed the bees, in order to have the queen laying regularly.

Last fall having profited by past experience I housed my bees in good condition the first cold snap in December. I prepared my colonies by taking off honey board, and putting on honey quilts, and then set them into my winter bee house with caps of the hives nearly closed below. The thermometer standing all winter at about 35 deg. in my winter depository. Frederick, Ohio.

LEONIDAS CARSON.

For the American Bee Journal.

How I Introduce a new Queen.

Perhaps you would like to know my plan of introducing, especially to bees that are cross, or too stubborn to receive a queen. I dont think it is new to you, but I have not seen it in the papers. I take one card of comb containing brood and honey, and all bees adhering to it. I then cut out a piece large enough to press the cage with the queen in to it in a perpendicular position; giving the queen a chance to get to the honey, and also to be among the bees and brood. Now I put them into an empty hive and add as many more bees to it, so as have plenty of bees to keep her, and shut them in. It seems that when bees are so imprisoned they soon forget all about a strange queen. In about twenty-four hours I open the hive for an hour or two, allowing some of the old bees to fly out, and after that release my new queen at once.

I

find that in almost every case she is well received. I go in about half an hour to see that all is right. I now kill my old queen and leave them queenless for a few hours, or all night and let them find out that they are queenless, and then exchange places; shuting in the bees of the old colony, and opening it at intervals of half an hour or longer, according to how fast they they leave for their old home. It takes several days to get all the bees back. This seems slow, but I have found it a safe plan.

My bees have been doing well till after linden harvest was over; but since that time they have not done a great deal. It seems as though they had come to a dead stop, for they don't increase in numbers, nor do they lay up stores. I am glad to learn that the two JOURNALS are consolidated, for it does one good to hear from old friends now and then. FRED BECHLY.

For the American Bee Journal.

Report from Bruce, Canada.

Last winter was very mild in the county of Bruce; and consequently the bees came out from their winter quarters in a very good condition. The spring, however, was very unfavorable. The days were clear, but the winds were cold and frosty; so that a large number of strong and healthy colo nies dwindled down to mere handfulls. To bee-keepers the summer appeared long in coming; but when it really did come, it was most favorable for bees-could not be more so. From the beginning of May to the 1. present the end of August-the bees had but very few lost days. Blossoms of all kinds were abundant, and honey was brought in most copiously. Let me give you the yield of one Italian hive as a specimen, which was in a good condition on the 1st of May, but not extra. From it, I took three swarms, or divisions; 50 pounds of box honey; and 82 pounds of extracted honey-making in all 132 pounds of honey, and three hives. The parent stock, with the three young hives, now weigh an average of forty pounds each, which they are to have for winter supply. Of course some of this weight consists of bee-bread; but were I to extract all the honey they now have, as some on your 's de are in the habit of doing, this hive, which is situated 444 degrées north latitude, would be among the wonders of the day. One thing, however, in favor of the young swarms, must be told: They had but little comb to make, as this was furnished them.

I see from the JOURNAL that bee-keepers are agreed respecting the cause of dysentery among bees in winter. My humble opinion is that undue excitement produces this disease among bees that have been

long confined. Bees are very sensitive, and easily excited. Too much heat; too much cold; dampness, or scarcity of food will excite them. I never yet met the disease in a hive which was freed from all these things; and it is difficult to winter a number of hives in the same building, or apartment, so as to be freed from them. For one hive may be too warm, and another beside it too cold; because the one contains nearly twice as many bees as the other. Two hives may have the same weight in the fall, and during the months of confinement the one may not consume half of its food, while the other may die of starvation; because some bees consume more food than others; and because the temperature in one hive may differ from that of another; and bees consume food according to the degree of temperature in the hive. Again, food may be in the hive, and the bees may perish from want, or by attempting to reach it. The food must be near the cluster, or the bees will get excited while selecting another place in the hive where they can reach the food; and during such excitement, or any excitement arising from any cause, dysentery is produced, and the most of the bees, if not all of them, perish.

My difficulties are connected not with the wintering of bees, but spring, Though my bees are generally confined for about five months, yet I bring them out strong and in good condition; but they are not long out when they become reduced, unknown to me and in spite of me. The colonies that have brood pretty well advanced during their confinement, do well in spring, if their queens should not die, a misfortune which very frequently meets me, and for which I can give no reason. In winding up my thoughts on these important points, for the time being, let me place my difficulties on record, and in the form of queries which may meet the eye of some who may be both able and willing to answer them through the AMERCAN BEE JOUR

NAL.

1st. Would it be wise, or safe to excite a colony which would be very still during its winter confinement, by feeding it, so as to cause breeding to be commenced two or three weeks before it would be taken to its summer stand?

24. What causes so many young, ánd apparently healthy, queens to die in the spring?

3d. I have now a queen from an imported mother, two years old, which five times her own size of gold would not purchase; because she is the most prolific queen I ever saw. Her progeny are most beautiful in their appearance and form, extraordinary workers, and of a good disposition as ever I had; and all her queen daughters are in color and form like herself. Very near the half of the eggs laid by

this valuable queen last spring produced drones, though the eggs were deposited in worker cells; but now, and during the last two months of summer, her eggs are, and have been, all right. How is this to be accounted for? My own opinion is the following: When I first made the discovery that so many of her eggs produced drones, I concluded-though much to my griefthat my queen was getting to be an old queen. But now as she shows no signs of old age, but has all the energy and prolificness of a young queen, I am driven to another opinion, namely: That in the spring the queen's body was so small that when she was in the act of depositing her eggs in the worker cells, her body was not sufficiently compressed for the eggs to receive their vivifying influence from the spermatheca; but when the queen was more liberally fed, and her body became large, the compression was effected, so that the eggs deposited in worker cells produced workers. Is my theory correct? If not, who will explain the difficulty?

Wishing the AMERICAN BEE JOURNAL great success,

I am, yours respectfully,

Bruce, Ont.

J. ADERSON.

For the American Bee Journal.

What Killed the Bees.

In looking over the reports of the bee disease, I am reminded of the story of two men meeting before an Inn. One on each side of the sign. One said it was black, and the other stoutly affirming it was white. After disputing over it a while they chang ed places, when lo and behold they were both right, for one side was painted white and the other black.

Both cold and poor-honey may kill the bees. I will give you my reasons of the way it is done. Bees in their various tribes are the only things that live on sweets. All animals die in a short time when fed upon it exclusively. A dog fed on it will die in 20 days. Scientific analysis has shown that sugar is neither mineral, nor vegtable, but that it holds a medium ground easily changed into either, which when thus changed becomes food for vegetable, or animal life. The bee in digestion changes it to vegetable, while a little water causes fermentation, which changes it back to mineral, making it only food for plant life. Now, it is honey not vinegar, that is food for bees. Since, honey, or syrup, so readily unite with water, causing it to sour, it can be easily seen why dampness in the hive is so fatal.

I come now to consider the cause of dampness in the hive. 1. A hive left out will remain dry so long as all dampness

4. A hole in the top with lower ventilation creating a draft, causes them to eat so much, as to pass it in a liquid form, arising in part from the dampness and stench arising from the dead bees at the bottom. Hence it will be seen that the difference in the frame makes it necessary to make a change in ventilation to keep it dry. Hence the difference in the various reports. Honey gathered late, thin and watery, will sour.

Good This is the other side of the sign. honey kept dry and warm will winter bees every time. But vinegar will not. Cold is the prime cause, with improper ventilation of producing dampness, which united with the honey or sugar syrup producing the mischief.

It remains now to determine how to winter bees so that they shall have good food, be kept warm and dry. Here I will simply suggest that the open top frame, covered with a quilt, thin enough to let the dampness escape, thick enough to stop a draft with lower ventilation, with the frames raised several inches from the bottom board in a dry cellar, kept so by a tin pipe connecting the bottom of the cellar with the stove pipe, would be in fair condition to winter if it was warm enough. I have known bees to winter in '72-3 buried 3 feet under ground, packed in straw, below, at the sides and top, so that the straw absorbed the moisture, while every body's bees died through the county. They were box hives set upon corn cobs, that is raised about one inch from the bottom board. Two three inch ventilating tubes, this secured dryness and warmth. It is no small study to learn how to ventilate so as to keep the bees dry under all circumstances in all kinds of hives. Dr. C. M. JOSLIN.

BEE OR WASP STINGS.-Spread over the part stung, a plaster of salad oil and common salt; if oil be not at hand, the salt may be moistened with water or vinegar. Another remedy is to keep the part constantly moistened with a rag dipped in sal-volatile and cold water, as strong as can be borne without raising the skin. Another antidote is everywhere available, for it is nothing more than common soil applied to the wound. This remedy has often been tested with complete success, and can be implicitly relied upon. The soil should be wet before being applied.-New Facts.