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ahead altitudes animals argali behavior bharal Bhote Kosi boulders camp canyon Chitral cliffs climb clouds crest dark descend dhole Dolpo feet females forest Gilgit glacier gorge grass Gyaltsen habitat halt head herd hills Himalaya Himalayan tahr Hindu Hindu Kush horns hunting Hunza ibex India Indus Jang-bu juniper Karakoram Karchat Khan kill lama Lapche leave livestock loads look males Marco Polo sheep markhor miles Misgar monastery morning mountains nearby Nepal night Nilgiri Nilgiri tahr once Pakistan pass peaks Pervez Peter Phu-Tsering plateau porters pugmarks rams range reached remain retreat ridge Ringmo river road rock route sheep and goats Sherpas Shey Skardu slopes snow leopard soon species stone tahr Tarakot tent Tibet Tibetan tiger trail trees trip tsampa urial valley vanished village walk walls watched wild goat wildlife wind winter wolves yaks young