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Almora aunt Bangalore bazaar beautiful became Benaras Bhowali birth born Brahmin brought celebrate ceremonies Chand changed childhood clothes cooking course cousin culture daughter Delhi Devi dhot died District Diwali elder brother father feel festivals formal education freedom friends and relatives Garhwal gave ghagras Goddess Govind Ballabh Pant grandfather grandmother Gujarati gujias hills Holi honour house in Almora husband independence India Indian Administrative Service Jagars Joshi Katyuris kitchen Kumaon Kumaoni women ladies lived Lohaniji look Lucknow Mahatma Gandhi marriage married meal Mohalla Moradabad mother mountains Naina Devi Nainital Navratri never orthodox paan Pahari Pande plains Pooja Pradesh purdah remember ritual sanatorium sanskaras Sanskrit sarees servants sister sometimes songs sort stay story taboos things Thul Ija told took tradition travelled uncle Uttar Pradesh Uttarakhand village wedding wife woman wore younger