Sweet and Sour: Life in Chinese Family Restaurants

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John Jung, 2010 - History - 297 pages
"Sweet and Sour" examines the history of Chinese family restaurants in the U. S. and Canada. Why did many Chinese immigrants enter this business around the end of the 19th century? What conditions made it possible for Chinese to open and succeed in operating restaurants after they emigrated to North America? How did Chinese restaurants manage to attract non-Chinese customers, given that they had little or no acquaintance with the Chinese style of food preparation and many had vicious hostility toward Chinese immigrants? The goal of "Sweet and Sour" is to understand how the small Chinese family restaurants functioned. Narratives provided by 10 Chinese who grew up in their family restaurants in all parts of the North America provide valuable insights on the role that this ethnic business had on their lives. Is there any future for this type of immigrant enterprise in the modern world of franchised and corporate owned eateries or will it soon, like the Chinese laundry, be a relic of history? Excerpts from Reviews I greatly admired and enjoyed "Sweet and Sour: Life in Chinese Family Restaurants" It does an excellent job of going over the historical background on early U. S. Chinese restaurants, unearthing lots of material new to me. And the interviews of Chinese restaurateurs opened up a whole new side to the story, of what it was like to work and live in these restaurants. Andrew Cole, "Chop Suey: A Cultural History of Chinese Food in the United States" "Sweet and Sour: Life in Chinese Family Restaurants" tackles the long-neglected topic of Chinese food with a focus on Chinese restaurants. This well-researched, thoughtfully conceptualized monograph brings academic rigor and adds historical depth, as well as the perspectives of an insightful scholar and a second-generation Chinese American, to our understanding of the development of Chinese food in the realm of public consumption in the United States and Canada. It promises to elevate that understanding to a higher level... Through this book, I hope, consumers at the ubiquitous Chinese restaurants can also gain a deeper appreciation of historical forces and human experiences that have shaped the food they now enjoy. Yong Chen, Professor of History, University of California, Irvine. "San Francisco Chinese 1850-1943: A Trans-Pacific Community." "Sweet and Sour" covers many important aspects of the Chinese restaurant business and it is a great contribution to the study of Chinese food in America. This area really deserves more attention than it has had. Haiming Liu, Prof.Ethnic & Women's Studies, Calif. State Polytechnic Univ. Pomona. I am reading your delightful book, Sweet and Sour. I especially like the "Insider Perspectives" section. Those first-hand experiences can generate a lot of potentially testable hypotheses about how the Chinese were able to provision their remote restaurants with exotic ingredients while other ethnic groups could not. Susan B. Carter, Univ. of California, Riverside Reader Comments You've made some amazing observations, wrote them down with sincerity, and I wholeheartedly support you on it. You've brought back some fond memories and I'm sure it will touch other folks like myself that have gone through it. Dave Chow When reading Sweet and Sour, I was struck by how it is both a work of scholarship and a documentation of the experience of Chinese restaurant workers. It serves to teach us about their experiences on multiple levels. Heather Lee Brings back childhood memories as most of the people interviewed are from Toisan like my family. We could always go into a new town, drop in at a Chinese restaurant and be welcomed. Dad would run out and say, "they're cousins! Rosemary Eng
 

Contents

Varieties of Chinese Restaurants ____________________
1
Fan Deems and Noodle Shops ______________________
17
Dining Rooms And Banquet Halls __________________
29
Chop Suey Mania ________________________________
56
Some Chinese Restaurant Pioneers __________________
75
Moving Beyond Chinatowns _______________________
101
Family Restaurant Operations_____________________
124
Insider Perspectives ______________________________
160
As One Era Ends Others Begin___________________
290
Bibliography______________________________________
307
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About the author (2010)

John Jung was born in Macon, Georgia, where his family, the only Chinese in the city, lived above their laundry. He majored in psychology at U. C. Berkeley and earned a Ph.D. at Northwestern University. Author of several academic textbooks, including a Second Edition of "Alcohol, Other Drugs and Behavior: Psychological Research Perspectives" by Sage Publications in 2009. Retiring after 40 years as Professor of Psychology at California State University,Long Beach, he published a memoir about his family's life in Georgia, Southern Fried Rice: Life in A Chinese Laundry in the Deep South (2005). A second book, Chinese Laundries: Tickets to Survival on Gold Mountain, published in 2007,examines the significant role that their laundries had on the economic survival of Chinese immigrants throughout North America during much of the century from about the 1870s to 1970s. A third book, "Chopsticks in the Land of Cotton: Lives of Mississippi Delta Chinese Grocers," published in 2008 is a social history of the Chinese of the Mississippi River Delta who ran small grocery stores for over a century from the late 1800s to the present. "Sweet and Sour: Life in Chinese Family Restaurants"is a social history of Chinese family-run restaurants in the U. S. and Canada that will be published in Feb., 2010.

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